Kathmandu busy as climbers and trekkers descend on the Himalaya

by Kraig Becker on

Late March and early April are always a very busy time in Kathmandu as spring finally arrives, granting mountaineers and trekkers access to the Himalaya at last. The city is generally crowded, colorful, and chaotic to begin with, but when the spring climbing and trekking seasons begin, that chaos is taken to another level. Most will only be in town for a brief stay, while they collect their required permits and gear and head out to their various mountain destinations in preparation for their adventures ahead.

Of course, Mt. Everest is one of the top draws for adventure travelers heading to both Nepal and Tibet this time of year. As of this writing, China has once again closed Tibet to visitors, although that is expected to change in the next few days. Once access to the region is restored, mountaineers will travel to Everest’s North Side, officially kicking off the climbing season there, which will run into early June, when the monsoon returns.

On the Nepali side of the mountain, it is business as usual, with regular flights to Lukla already in full swing. The mountain village serves as the gateway to the Khumbu Valley, which in turn gives access to Everest itself. Climbers who are taking on the mountain from the South Side must first make a ten day trek to Base Camp, where teams of Sherpas have been busy preparing for the their arrival for over a week now. Reportedly, poor weather prevented a number of flights from getting out of Kathmandu, over the weekend, but things have improved now, and the regular shuttles are back on schedule.

The route to BC is a popular one with trekkers as well, and although they’ll never stand on the summit of the 29,035 foot tall Everest themselves, they still enjoy the challenges of hiking through the Himalaya. Along the way, they’ll stay in rustic tea houses and experience Sherpa culture first hand, while basking in some of the most breathtaking (literally and figuratively) scenery found anywhere on the planet.

While Everest may be the most famous mountain in the Himalaya, it is hardly the only attraction that draws climbers and trekkers to Nepal. The Annapurna Circuit is widely considered one of the best, if not the best, trekking route in the world, and it attracts its fair share of backpackers as well. This trek runs around the amazing Annapurna Massif, which includes six major peaks, each of which is at least 7200 meters in height. The crown jewel of those peaks is Annapurna I, the 10th highest mountain in the world at 26,545 feet, and one of the toughest to climb as well.

The hustle and bustle of Kathmandu will continue for the next couple of months, with travelers coming and going. Most trekkers will hang around the region for two to three weeks, while the climbers will stay put for as much as two and a half months. Right now, more than any other place on the planet, adventure is in the air in the Himalaya and for travelers that make the trip, the rewards are endless.

U.S. Congreswoman’s husband dies on remote Himalayan peak

by Kraig Becker on

Clifton Maloney, the husband of U.S. Representative from New York Carolyn Maloney, has died while climbing in the Himalaya. The millionaire investment banker was 71 years old, and was on Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, reaching 26,906 feet in height.

Maloney was described as an avid adventurer who was into running, sailing, and climbing. He had competed in the New York City Marathon on 20 occasions and climbed all over the world. After successfully summitting Cho Oyu, he gained the distinction of being the oldest person to achieve that feat.

Following that successful summit, Maloney and his team descended to one of their prepared high camps to rest after a long day at altitude. Reportedly he told one of the other climbers “I am the happiest man in the world. I just climbed a beautiful mountain” before crawling into his sleeping bag for the night. He never woke up, and at this time the exact cause of his death is still unknown.

Located just 12 miles west of Mount Everest, Cho Oyu falls on the border between Nepal and Tibet, and despite its height, it is generally considered the easiest of the fourteen 8000 meter peaks. Because of this, there are numerous guided expeditions to the mountain each year. Maloney was climbing as part of one of these professional expeditions.

Maloney is survived not only by his wife, but two daughters, his mother and sister.

China closes Tibet once again

by Kraig Becker on

China has once again closed off the borders of Tibet to foreign travelers ahead of the October 1st holiday celebrating 60 years of Communist rule. According to this story from the Associated Press, the travel ban went into effect on Tuesday and is expected to last at least until the 8th October and is the result of fears of protests and demonstrations in the Himalayan state. The article says that while no new visitors are being allowed in, travelers already in Tibet have been allowed to stay.

Besides shutting down the borders, security has also been increased across the country, particularly in the larger urban centers such as Lhasa. These measures have become common place in recent months, starting with a crackdown in March of 2008, following a series of riots, that left the country shut off to the rest of the world for months. The Chinese claim that 22 people were killed during that incident, but Tibetan nationals claim that that number is in the hundreds. Beijing made the same move in February of this year out of fears of further protests around the 50th anniversary of the exile of the Dalai Lama.

The economic impact of shutting down the borders is felt directly by the Tibetan people, many of whom make their living in the tourist trade. Autumn is traditionally the second busiest time of the year for tourism in Tibet, with trekkers and mountaineers visiting the country following the departure of the summer monsoon. According to the AP story, the effects are already being felt, with foreign visitors to local hotels already down 20%-30%.

Hopefully the October 1st holiday comes and goes without incident and the borders reopen on schedule on the 8th.

Trekking the Himalaya in India

by Kraig Becker on

When adventure travelers set out to hike the Himalaya, they traditionally go to Nepal to take on the Annapurna Circuit or make their way to Everest Base Camp. Some will venture to Tibet or even Bhutan to get their high altitude fix, but many forget that the Himalaya run into India as well, and they offer the same amazing views and cultural interaction.

Travel writer Stan Sesser recently made the journey to Ladakh, India, and wrote about his experiences for the Wall Street Journal. The quaint little villiage, which looks more Tibetan than Indian, sits at 13,000 feet and is a two hour hike from the nearest road. But despite it’s remote location, Sesser round ancient Bhuddist temples, hosbitable villagers, and towering, snow capped peaks.

Sesser says he paid $688 to a local trekking service to gain access to the region, and for his money he received a guide, a cook, a horesman, and five horses to carry their gear along a 40 mile mountain trail. Over the course of the next five days, he and guides explored mountain passes ranging from 10,000 to 16,000 feet, passing through villages that don’t appear on maps even to this day, and remain virtually unchanged from the way they were centuries ago.
Traditionally, trekking the Himalaya in Nepal or Tibet is best done in April and May or again in October and November. During the summer months the monsoon sets in, and the torrential rains makes it impossible to venture into the mountains. But that isn’t the case in India, where the high mountains cut off the rains, providing excellent trekking from June through October.

Sesser does note that trekking other parts of the region have become uncertain affairs, with the Taliban causing problems in the Karakorum of Pakistan, the Chinese locking down access to Tibet, and political unrest in Nepal. But he says that makes Ladakh all the more appealing. Few trekkers visit the area however, and of those that do, only a very small percentage are Americans.

If you’re looking for a trekking region that is truly off the beaten path, then head to this remote corner in India’s far north. You’ll get plenty adventure, a dose of unique culture, and views that will take your breath away for more reasons than just the altitude.

American summits Everest for record 11th time

by Kraig Becker on

Last week we mentioned that Apa Sherpa, the legendary mountain guide, reached the summit of Mt. Everest, extending his record to an impressive 19th time on top of the world. A few days later, we noted that British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes also reached the summit, on his third attempt, at the age of 65.

Over the weekend, American mountaineer Dave Hahn, climbing with the First Ascent Team, also successfully topped out on the mountain, reaching the 29,035 foot summit, which is the highest point on the planet. For Hahn, this is his 11th trip up the mountain, a record for a non-Sherpa.

Hahn is a professional mountain guide who has scaled big mountains all over the world, and his resume includes 26 ascents of Mt. Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, and 18 summits of Denali, the tallest mountain in North America. He’s also been to the top of Mt. Rainier nearly 250 times in his illustrous career.

Congratulations to Dave, and the rest of the First Ascent Team for an amazing effort this year on Everest. With the entire team now down safely off the mountain, they are preparing for the trek back to Lukla, where they’ll catch a flight to Kathmandu, and finally, after nearly two months in Nepal, they’ll head home.