Archaeologists in Syria discover Byzantine mosaic

Just when you thought all news coming out of Syria was bad, an archaeology team has discovered a Byzantine mosaic in a medieval church.

The mosaic was discovered last week at the Deir Sounbol Church on al-Zawieh Mountain. Syrian investigators say the mosaic measures 4×5 meters (13×16 ft.). While portions are damaged or missing, floral and geometric shapes are clearly visible and there are inscriptions in Greek. These are prayers that include the names of the owner of the church and the person who supervised the creation of the mosaic.

The Byzantine Empire was the eastern half of the Roman Empire. Long after the Western Empire collapsed, the Byzantines continued Roman culture with a distinctive Greek flair. Syria was Byzantine territory and was the battlefront in the Empire’s grueling war with Persia.

The war weakened both sides so much that they were easy pickings when the followers of Mohammed burst out of the Arabian Peninsula in the 7th century. Persia quickly fell, but Byzantium held on, shrinking gradually until the end came in 1453. In that year the capital Constantinople, modern Istanbul, fell to the Ottoman Turks.

One of Byzantium’s greatest achievements were its sumptuous mosaics. Made of little colored tiles called tesserae, they depict elaborate scenes and some have tesserae made of gold. A copyright-free image of the Syrian mosaics was not available. You can see them here. This picture, courtesy of Berthold Werner, shows a mosaic floor in Jerash, Jordan. It’s interesting in that it contains swastikas, a symbol of peace and harmony for centuries before the Nazis twisted its meaning.

I love the fact that Syrian archaeologists are continuing to dig despite the chaos and repression going on in their country. These guys obviously love their work and won’t let anything stop them from doing what they feel is important. It reminds me of a literary journal that was published in Beirut during Lebanon’s civil war. The offices were right next to the no-man’s land between two factions, and yet they still managed to publish literature on a regular basis. The name of the journal escapes me. Any Lebanese out there remember it?

VIDEO: Chinese popcorn cannon

Don’t have 5 minutes (cooking times may vary, wait until you hear 2-3 seconds between pops) to wait for microwave popcorn? Perhaps this Chinese popcorn cannon from the streets of Shanghai is fast enough for you – it just takes a few seconds, provided you have a serious pressure cooker. This ingenious contraption can also be used for puffed rice or other grains, though we wonder how clean the bag is which holds the resulting treat. China isn’t the only place with popped street snacks: here in my city of Istanbul, you can get fresh popcorn made over hot coals from many wandering street vendors.

Have you seen this popcorn maker in action? Leave us your theories (and taste impressions) in the comments!

Summer Travel: Spotlight on Istanbul

Ask most travelers to list their favorite European cities, and they’ll most likely feedback with the classics: Paris, Rome, Venice, Florence, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Munich and many others. But one destination that doesn’t always make the list is not only the largest metropolitan city proper in Europe, but also the former capital of both the Roman and Ottoman empires.

Need a hint?

We’re talking about ancient Byzantium, medieval Constantinople and modern Istanbul. Turkey’s capital city, not to mention its financial hub and cultural center, is built on both sides of the Bosphorus Strait. As such, it is the world’s only bi-continental city, located literally and figuratively at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.

Any time of year, Istanbul charms and enchants with its skyline of elegant minarets rising from the slopes of seven hills. But summertime heat awakens denizens from their winter slumber, imbuing the streets with vigorous life. Alfresco cafes brew cardamom-infused coffee, while waterside bistros serve up the fresh catch of the day.

With a material history dating back to the Byzantines, Istanbul is a veritable living museum of architectural stylings. You can easily spend a week exploring each of the city’s distinct neighborhoods, and check-off several UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the process. So, without further ado, let’s shine a much deserved spotlight on Istanbul.

%Gallery-122775%The Sultanahmet district lies at the heart of the old city, and is home to both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The former was built by the Byzantines during the 6th century CE, and was designated as the largest cathedral in the world for almost one thousand years. Converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, the Hagia Sophia and its crowning dome inspired similar constructions throughout the empire.

One such prominent example is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque or ‘Blue Mosque,’ which was built in the 17th century directly across from the Hagia Sophia. Rising up from the foundations of the ruined Byzantine palace, the Blue Mosque earned its moniker from the tens of thousands of ceramic tiles lining its interior. The exterior is distinguishes by its six minarets, vaulted arcades and undulating series of domed cupolas.

Together the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque serve as Istanbul’s monumental crown jewels. But this is not to say that the pair are the solitary focal point of the skyline. On the contrary, Istanbul is a sprawling panorama of delicate minarets rising up to the heavens. One of the best ways of appreciating the viewscape is to travel the city’s myriad waterways by ferry, tour boat or even local water taxi. Istanbul is simply magical just before sunset when the minarets turn dark black against a fiery sky.

Tourists in search of authentic handicrafts and tacky kitsch alike inevitably descend on the Grand Bazaar. Built in the 15th century, this covered marketplace has thousands of shops lining dozens of pedestrian throughways. Overpriced carpets and hookahs of dubious quality are peddled with vigor, but look beyond the aggressive touts to discover the genuine article. Turkish textiles are of very high quality, as are the works by resident cobblers, carvers, goldsmiths and jewelers.

If the tourist gauntlet becomes too much to handle, fret not as there are bargains to be had well beyond the walls of the Grand Bazaar. Scattered throughout the city are smaller markets of various manifestations that cater primarily to locals. The food markets are especially intoxicating to behold, complete with steaming vats of thick stews, carefully arranged piles of exotic spices, jars of pickled vegetables and rectangular trays lined with all manners of sweet, flakey and gooey pastries.

Indeed, Turkish cuisine is rich and varied, drawing ingredients and inspiration from the European, Central Asian and Middle Eastern corners of the Ottoman empire. It can be as basic as sesame-coated breads and seasoned yoghurt, or as complex as multi-course vegetable mezes and heavily-seasoned roasted kebabs. Domestic wines are surprisingly smooth and refreshing, unlike the local firewater that is anise-flavored raki.

Eating and drinking is a full-time activity in Istanbul, and reason enough to sacrifice some sightseeing in favor of restaurant-hopping. One of the most fashionable addresses to do so is Independence Avenue, a Parisian-inspired boulevard of 18th century Beaux-Arts buildings. Amidst the high-end retail shopping are some of the city’s most celebrated cafes, restaurants, bars, bistros, patisseries and confectionaries.

If you need to detox after imbibing a bit too much of the food and drink, there is no better destination than any of Istanbul’s hamam or Turkish-style bathhouses. Continuing the legacy of public bathing that dates back to the Greco-Romans, the hamam is comprised of several marbled rooms containing various hot and cold water baths. Impurities are sweated out in the saunas, and muscles and joints are loosened up in the pools of water. Attendants are also on-hand to offer therapeutic scrubs, leaving you with baby soft skin and a new appreciation for the wonders of cosmetology.

If you’re feeling a bit too squeaky clean, you can always spend the evening boozing it up along the Golden Mile. Dancing to Turkish techno with a cold lager in hand will give you some much needed perspective on the modern face of the city. Youthful, carefree and tolerant, the Golden Mile is where any remaining stereotypes of staid and conservative Istanbul quickly vanish away.

So, what are you waiting for?

Turkish Airlines, alongside most major carriers, connects US and Canadian cities to Istanbul. Accommodation is varied, and ranges from converted palaces to humble B&Bs. Summer heat and humidity can be stifling at times, but it’s a small price to pay for the opportunity to step foot in one of the world’s most fabled cities.

** All gallery images are the author’s own original work. All others were sourced from the Wikimedia Commons Project **

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Ode to the expat newspaper

One of my favorite things about traveling, in addition to foreign supermarkets, oddball museums, and miniature toiletries, is the local English-language expat newspaper. When I’m home in New York, I tend to get all my news online, either directly from news websites through specific searches or curated from friends’ links on social media (one of the best sources for news from US newspapers is Canadian NY1 anchorman and New Yorker favorite Pat Kiernan‘s site Pat’s Papers). Sorry US newspapers, I know I’m part of the problem. But while I’m traveling, I love to grab the local newspaper over hotel breakfast or in a coffeeshop and learn about local issues, news, and phenomena.Last month in Malaysia while reading the New Straits Times, I learned about how competitive the Chinese are at a kite flying festival and how southeast Asian children have to be taught to detect sour milk. The travel section reviewed a new hotel in Penang with a first impression of “adequate” and the Niexter insert written by Malaysian teenagers taught me all about malapropisms. A couple at our hotel told me they came to Penang after reading an article on the Hotel Penaga’s renovation from the paper in Kuala Lumpur.

It was from Istanbul’s Today’s Zaman that I learned about the excellent expat community and online forum I’ve become a part of in the last year, and I now have friends who have worked at Zaman and their competitor the Hurriyet Daily News. When I first visited Turkey in 2008, I recall reading an interesting editorial in one of the papers about how stealing things from airplanes like safety cards can cause delays, as the plane can’t take off without enough for everyone. The torn out article is long-gone, but I’ve retained the factoid and it keeps me honest on airplanes (though I’ve been tempted to take a souvenir from some eastern European airlines). When the Hurriyet turned 50 this year, writer Jennifer Hattam wrote a great piece on the particular challenges of not only translating the language of news, but the cultural specifics and background as well.

Expat news doesn’t only come in print form. I tweeted about expat news sources and read how writer Lisa Bergren relies on the BBC for news as well as comfort, and CJGuest recommends Al Jazeera from the Arabic world, the German Deutsche Welle, NHK from Japan, and Russia Today from the Russian Federation. Gadling’s own Grant Martin likes the South China Morning Post and the more western Sydney Morning Herald.The local English-language paper doesn’t always have the freshest content, the most stellar writing, or the coolest layout, but it provides an invaluable look into regional and national issues. Expat news can also provide a lens through which to see world news through local perspectives, and help us keep in touch with the sentiments and opinions in our home countries and cultures.

Gadling readers, do you have any favorite news sources abroad? Please feel free to share in the comments.

Photo courtesy Flickr user Ed Yourdon

Istanbul to get second Bosphorus with new canal project

The US may be all abuzz about President Obama’s birth certificate, but the big news in Turkey this week is the proposed Istanbul canal project to dig a second Bosphorus. Prime Minister Recep Erdogan’s self-proclaimed “crazy” project would connect the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, making Istanbul a city of “two peninsulas and an island.” Details of the project are still unclear, but it is estimated that it will cost more than $10 billion and would be finished in time for Turkey’s centennial in 2023.

“Today, we are rolling up our sleeves for one of world’s greatest projects which cannot even be compared with Panama Canal, Suez Canal or Corinth Canal,” Erdogan said. “Istanbul is the only city on earth that a sea passes through. With this project, Istanbul will become a city that two seas will pass.”

Turkey’s cultural capital is already known for several historic bodies of water including the Bosphorus strait, which divides Istanbul between Europe and Asia, as well as the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara, and the Black Sea. The Bosphorus is one of the busiest and most important waterways in the world, with up to 50,000 passages per year with one-way traffic for tankers. The new canal would alleviate all of the commercial traffic and allow for additional ships to pass. The waterway would be around 30 miles long, 500 feet wide, and 80 feet deep and cut through the European side far west of the city center. The upside for vistors is that the crowded Bosphorus would be returned to sport and pleasure boats, making the classic Bosphorus cruise less polluted and crowded.

Photo courtesy Flickr user alinnman