Montreal Musts, to do: Sample the art galleries

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Montreal has an abundance of art galleries and museums, stretching from one side of the city to the other. But, if you’re looking for one spot where you can surround yourself with more galleries than you could conceivably enjoy in a day, head down to Old Montreal and explore la rue Saint-Paul Ouest. From la rue McGill to boulevard Saint-Laurent, it’s packed with galleries large and small, including some that are artist-owned and others that represent a broad spectrum of creative minds.

The first gallery that caught my eye was Galerie Elca London. Unique on St. Paul Ouest, Elca London focuses on art created by the Inuit. Sculpture and flat art are available and come to the gallery based on their availability. Unlike most, it buys the art rather than take it on consignment, and there are no entangling relationships that limit what it can carry. So, if it measures up to the standard, it lands on the shelves. Of course, the gallery’s theme is evident from the inventory – there are a lot of polar bears and native masks. You’re more likely to pick up a piece or two for your collection, I suspect, than make this the cornerstone of your home décor.

Atelier Art Bressan is a single-artist gallery, featuring the works of Pauline Bressan, though a few pieces by her daughter (also a talented artist) have found their way onto the walls. Bressan’s style is decidedly abstract, and her influences vary. One piece, for example, comes from the effect a Senegalese poem had on her. The artist has shown her work around the world – in France, the United States and many other countries – which supports the quality of her creations in terms of investment potential (something to keep in mind as the art market starts to work its way up from the floor).

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One of my favorite art spots in Montreal is still Les Passants du Sans Soucy Auberge. A boutique hotel, its lobby includes a small art gallery, mostly featuring the works of Jacques Clement. Clement’s work includes more landscapes than it did last year (my first visit to this lobby gallery), but he still has enough work on the human body (which has a Francis Bacon style to it) to keep me excited.

Further up Saint-Paul Ouest, you’ll find several art galleries that are similar to what you’d find in New York: multiple artists are featured, and the work is stylish, modern and exciting. Galerie Le Luxart tops the list for me in this group, with a labyrinthine gallery featuring a variety of contemporary techniques that will definitely force you to stop and look for a while. Galerie Saint Dizier and Galerie le Royer are of the same ilk.

Of course, if street art is more your style, you’ll find murals painted on buildings throughout the city. For the best concentration, head up to the trendy Plateau neighborhood, where you’ll find carefully crafted graffiti art in many of the alleys.

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Disclosure: Tourisme-Montreal picked up the tab for this trip, but my views are my own.

Life Nomadic: Visiting Cirque du Soleil’s Roots

by Tynan on

One great perk of being a nomad is that you get to see great shows all around the world that you otherwise may not have access to. I’ve seen Les Miserables in London, Paul Potts in Japan, and a number of shows on Broadway in New York.

Trips through Vegas, which seem to happen at least once a year, always mean seeing a Cirque du Soleil show. As you may have guessed from my previous write-up on KA, I’ve become a huge fan.

Although Cirque has now become a quintessential staple of Las Vegas, the troupe was originally founded in Montreal. So when I heard that a new show, Ovo, was opening in the famous Grand Chapiteau on the waterfront of Old Montreal, I knew I had to go. Luckily I was scheduled to visit my girlfriend, also a Cirque fan, in nearby Toronto, so we made plans to head to Montreal.

After a spectacular cup of tea at nearby Ming Tao Xuan, which nearly warrants its own post, we walked through Montreal’s pleasant weather to the tents.
For about fifteen minutes we stared at the enourmous egg (Ovo means Egg in Portuguese) on stage and pondered what they might do with it. Before we could come up with any solid theories, the show began.

I won’t give any specifics of the show to ruin the surprise, but I will say this: Ovo is the first touring show I’ve seen that rivals the permanent installations in Las Vegas. Declaring a favorite show is too gut wrenching to consider, but Ovo is definitely a contender.

My favorite element of Cirque performances are the acrobatics. Some shows have more, others have less. Ovo was packed to the brim, especially during the second half of the show. Some sequences were hard for me to watch– the maneuvers were so impossibly complicated and required such exact precision that I was actually nervous for the performers.

One performer actually missed his mark and fell. I was happy to see this, though, because it’s a signal that the directors are really pushing what is possible instead of relying on easier moves that they know can be completed easily. The performer tried again, made it, and the crowd went wild for him. You can imagine how nervous I was for him the second time around.

Another very strong element in Ovo was the music. In most Cirque du Soleil shows I’ve seen, and I certainly haven’t seen them all, the music is fantastic, but plays a background role. In Ovo, though, the musicians were clearly visible and several of them actually came on stage and became part of the story. This made me pay more attention to, and thus enjoy more, the music than I may have otherwise.

Like Mystere, Ovo had a constant element of humor. I found the main character (the suitor) annoying at first, but by the end he had totally won me over. His counterpart, on the other hand, was lovable from the first second we saw her. The costumes were incredible, but they’re so consistently incredible across all of the Cirque du Soleil shows that I don’t have much to say about them.

Overall, Ovo really blew me away. It was one of the very best Cirque shows I’ve seen, and seeing it in Montreal was the icing on the cake. It won’t be in Montreal much longer, but you can check out the schedule (and a short video clip) here.

Gadling picks the world’s best “second cities”

by Jeremy Kressmann on

We like winners. Whether it’s the winning army of a war or the world’s fastest 100 meter runner, we lavish attention and praise on the victors and relegate the losers to the dustbin of history. The same is true of travel – the most important travel cities like New York, London, Sydney and Tokyo are favored by visitors while lesser-known destinations are skipped, scratched from the itinerary or just plain ignored.

The destinations we visit win our attention for good reason. They’re typically the biggest cities – meaning they have the best restaurants, biggest museums and largest inventory of hotels. Yet when we travel to only the “most popular” or “biggest,” we ignore a fundamental truth of travel. What we know about a place has as much to do with what we’re told as it does with what we actually find once there.

With that in mind, Gadling is bringing you a compilation of our favorite “second cities” – large urban areas that are among the biggest in their country but frequently overshadowed by more famous capitals. The following picks boast many of the same amenities that make their bigger rivals so famous – top notch cultural institutions, unique local charm, great cuisine and nightlife. How many have you visited? Take a look below:

  • Second City #1 – Osaka, Japan – travelers love to talk about Tokyo, but focusing exclusively on Tokyo does serious injustice to the city of Osaka. What Osaka lacks in population, it more than makes up for in its citizens’ lust for life and sheer zaniness. Along the streets of Osaka’s Dotonbori district you’ll find a raucous party of eating and drinking that is virtually unmatched anywhere on earth. In addition to the city’s famous Takoyaki octopus balls and grilled snow crab, Osaka also boasts cultural attractions like Osaka Castle and the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum.

  • Second City #2 – Gothenburg, Sweden – Stockholm is unquestionably Sweden’s capital and its largest city. But not nearly as many have been to Gothenburg, the country’s second largest metropolis and home to Sweden’s largest university. The large population of students means Gothenburg has a surprisingly fertile arts and culture scene, frequently rivaling its larger sibling Stockholm for an unassuming, fun experience – all at a fraction of the price.
  • Second City #3 – Krakow, Poland – Krakow has slowly become of one Poland’s greatest tourist attractions in recent years, steadily easing out of the shadow of much larger Warsaw. Unlike Warsaw, which was leveled by bombing during World War II, Krakow retains much of its historical architecture – a unique feature that will have first time visitors in awe.
  • Second City #4 – Melbourne, Australia – neighboring Sydney might boast the Opera House and stunning harbor views, but Australian visitors ignore Melbourne at their peril. The city is packed to the brim with top-notch shopping, hidden laneways and world class events like the Australian Open tennis tournament.
  • Second City #5 – Wellington, New Zealand – Auckland might appear to dominate New Zealand’s economic and cultural agenda, but in truth it’s modest-sized Wellington that’s really calling the shots. In addition to being New Zealand’s capital city, Wellington has a world-class museum at Te Papa, killer food and what might be the best cocktails this side of the Pacific.
  • Second City #6 – Montreal, Canada – any visitor that’s been to the capital of Canada’s Quebec province can tell you: Montreal will give Toronto a run for its money any day of the week. In addition to hosting two fantastic music festivals each summer and bohemian nightlife, Montreal is also full of plenty of French colonial architecture and charm.
  • Second City #7 – Chicago, USA – a list of “second cities” would not be complete without Chicago, arguably the birthplace of the term and perennial competitor to bigger American cities like New York and Los Angeles. Make no mistake about it though: Chicago might be called the second city, but it has first-city amenities, including amazing museums, some of the best food in the U.S. and plenty of friendly residents.
  • Second City #8 – Salvador, Brazil – picturesque Rio de Janeiro and glitzy Sao Paulo may get all the attention in Brazil, but it’s Salvador that’s really stealing the show. The city’s laid-back citizens, fantastic beaches and historic colonial architecture make it strong competitor for best place to visit in Brazil. Plus, if you want to go to Carnival, Salvador hosts some of the country’s most authentic celebrations.
  • Second City #9 – Galway, Ireland – true, rowdy Dublin has the Guinness Factory and Book of Kells. But don’t forget about Galway, a gem of a town along Ireland’s wild and windy West Coast. Galway’s position as home to many of the country’s university students, rugged natural beauty and frequent festivals make it strong contender for Ireland’s best-kept secret.
  • Second City #10 – Barcelona, Spain – if you’re among the many travelers already raving about Barcelona’s many charms, this pick comes as no surprise. Madrid might be the cultural and political head of Spain, but it is freewheeling Barcelona that is its heart. Between the picturesque city setting nestled between craggy foothills and the Mediterranean Sea, top-notch nightlife and shopping, warm climate or the burgeoning arts scene, there’s a lot to love in Barcelona.

Did we mention your favorite second city? Think we missed a hidden gem? Leave us a comment below and let us know what you think.

Canadian Valentine’s Day packages for under $300

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Need some last minute ideas for Valentine’s Day? Consider our neighbors to the north. Fairmont Hotels & Resorts has put together some fantastic packages that are sure to do better than the box of candy you have tucked under your arm.

The Fairmont Empress in Victoria, British Columbia is a 100 year-old castle. Right away, that sets the scene for you. The Lovers’ Escape package consists of a night at the hotel, three-course dinner for two in the Empress Room, a special chocolate treat from Bernard Callebaut and breakfast in bed the next morning. For $250, it’s actually cheaper than flowers and dinner (at least where I live).

In Montreal, the Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth‘s “Do not Disturb” package will set you back $229, but it delivers a night in a plush guestroom, dinner for two at Le Montrealais restaurant … and a late checkout. You’ll need it. Further north, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu in Charlevoix includes a four-course dinner, buffet breakfast and access to a heated outdoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Book a room for February 14 at $279, and you’ll be called a romantic for the rest of the year.

Budget Travel: Montreal

by Tom Johansmeyer on


Summary: You don’t have to dash off to Europe to soak in the sights and sounds of a different culture. Montreal is much closer, less expensive and if you’re in a jam, they’ll even break into English for you! Just 45 minutes by plane from New York or Boston, and pretty easy from just about everywhere else in the United States, you’ll have an endless amount of festivals, local attractions and hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.

Don’t let the cold discourage you. Though Montreal is nestled within our northern neighbor’s borders, the temperature in January is a seemingly unreasonable -6 degrees Fahrenheit. Don a coat and hat, though, and it’s manageable. If the empty streets surprise you, step below the surface, and explore the city’s second, underground world à RESO.

As you plan your trip up to Canada, take a close look at what’s going on in Montreal when you plan to head up there. While the basic museums and theaters will always be there, the city has a thriving festival scene that lasts through the winter and rotates quickly all year long. Every time you go, you’re likely to see something different.
Getting in: If you live in the northeast, the flights are easy. Continental has a shuttle to Montreal that can cost below $300. If you’re aiming at Montreal from farther away, Air Canada, Continental, Delta and other airlines fly in regularly. Crossing the Atlantic? You can do so non-stop from London, Paris, Amsterdam and others.

The trip into the city from Pierre Trudeau Airport (it used to be called Dorval) start at around CD$25 and can reach CD$60. Fortunately, you can solve the problem with public transportation. You’ll save plenty of cash to pour into your shot glass when you hit the bars downtown, but it can take close to a half hour to get into the city … and then you still have to get to your hotel.

Once you’re in the city, stick with public transportation. You won’t have to worry about parking, and the subway is clean, fast and efficient. It actually stops where you would want to go. Also, without a car, there’s no need to warm the vehicle up for five minutes before you pull out of your space.

Where to Stay: You have plenty of choices. Skip the newer part of the city, and settle into one of Old Montreal’s stylish boutique hotels. You won’t accumulate any points with the hotel chains you normally call home, but your trip will be unique. If you’re going to Montreal, you have to go native.

There are plenty of hotels within walking distance of just about every attraction in Old Montreal, and downtown is only a subway ride away.

  • Step into Les Passants du Sans Soucy, and you’ll see immediately that you are not in a typical hotel. The lobby doubles as an art gallery, where you can see (and purchase) the work of Canadian artist Jacques Clement. The exposed brick throughout the property heightens the charm, and the dining room is far from institutional. This is a home away from home.
  • The Hotel St-Paul is Montreal’s design attraction. The guestrooms emphasize the property’s commitment to style, and the interlocking bathrobes demonstrate that no detail is too trivial to the staff. I’ve stayed at the Hotel St-Paul, it will be at the top of my list on my next trip north.
  • Tourisme Montreal has plenty of deals at properties across the city right now. Some have rates as low as CD$139 a night and offer a second night at half price. The “Sweet Deal Winter” program makes it clear that the locals know how hard it can be to attract southern neighbors when a warm day is above zero.
  • If you prefer the predictability of a major chain, give up Old Montreal and book a room downtown, where you’ll find major presences by Marriott, Hyatt, Sheraton and other dependable brands.

What to See:

  • Montreal’s art galleries must not be missed. Skip the museums and walk up and down la rue St Paul Ouest. If you like what you see in the window, step inside. Some of the galleries are operated by the artists themselves, so you’ll have a rare opportunity to talk to the creators.
  • When the winter cold is too much for you, step into a subway station. These aren’t mere portals to the city’s public transportation system: they are gateways to a second city that lives beneath the surface when winter strikes with its characteristic ferocity. Enjoy the shops and restaurants that come to life when the world above goes quiet.
  • Get a hot dog – the best dinner under CD$5. The misnamed Pool Hall isn’t home to felt-covered tables any more, but they do have the best dogs in the city. Sound like a local: a hot dog with everything on it is “all dressed.” You’ll find this joint on la rue St Denis, but if you aren’t paying attention, you might miss it. When in doubt, ask one of the natives. They’re helpful.
  • Through the beginning of March, take advantage of the city’s festivals, such as the All-Nighter, Wine and Dine experience and Celebration of Light. If you don’t make it out to Montreal until later in the year, you’ll still find some festival in progress. July (for those who plan ahead) brings both the Fantasia film festival and the Just for Laughs comedy festival.

Stay warm; that’s your first priority. If you choose your stops wisely, Montreal can be a great city at any time of year. Don’t plan to spend too much time along the city’s harbor, but you can follow the locals to the city’s underground city. Brave the cold and enjoy the empty streets, or follow the masses below. Either way, Montreal is the best winter destination that never would have come to mind.