In the Corner of the World – Struggles of the modern Maori

by Mike Barish on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

After more than 24 hours of travel, I arrived in Auckland, New Zealand. It was the longest amount of time that I had ever spent en route to a destination and the farthest that I had ever been from home. I was on the opposite side of the planet from my life in New York and experiencing the South Pacific for the first time. And I couldn’t shake one really odd feeling: The people here sure don’t look like Pacific Islanders. It seemed like everyone was white, spoke the Queen’s English and had created their own Little Britain. Maori people are grossly outnumbered by their colonial countrymen and their existence is markedly different. People of Maori decent currently make up only 15% of New Zealand’s population and they lag behind their European counterparts in crucial areas such as unemployment rates, literacy and health. This upset me and I wanted to learn more.

It seemed strange that people would travel all the way to New Zealand, snap photos of Maori meeting houses and war canoes and then leave without learning anything about modern Maori life. Troubled by how limited my interaction with Maori was while I was in New Zealand, I decided to retroactively learn more about the troubles that have befallen the population. What I learned was disheartening though not surprising given the country’s colonial history.
I scoured the website of Statistics New Zealand, the government’s official statistics department, for more information on the state of the Maori population. While the country is located in a far corner of the world, a distinction that inspired the name of this Gadling feature, it is growing whiter every year. Maori population growth is slowing at an alarming rate. Contributing to this is the average Maori life expectancy, which is about seven years less than the non-Maori population. Similarly, the gap between Maori and non-Maori mortality rates is growing.

Many of the Maori I did see in New Zealand were working in blue collar, unskilled positions. According to Statistics New Zealand,

Among the full-time employed, a higher proportion of Māori than non-Māori were employed in occupations with lower median incomes, for example, as sales and service workers, plant and machinery operators and in elementary occupations. In contrast, a lower proportion of Māori were employed as legislators, administrators and managers, professionals or technicians and associate professionals, occupations with higher median incomes. Māori were one and a half times more likely than non-Māori to be employed as trades workers and plant and machinery operators than legislators, administrators and managers.

This can be partially explained by the low literacy rates of the Maori. A recent survey described by Statistics New Zealand showed that close to three-fourths of Maori had literacy skills that were below the aptitude necessary to handle the “complex demands of everyday life and work.”

As a result of these low literacy rates and high proportion of Maori in low income jobs, more than 30% of Maori are in the lowest quartile of ranked incomes. While the non-Maori population sees a more even distribution of their population in the four household income quartiles, Maori are over-represented in the bottom two income quartiles.

Perhaps even more troubling is the representation of Maori in New Zealand’s prisons. Despite making up only 15% of the total population, close to 50% of New Zealand’s incarcerated prisoners are Maori according to the Department of Corrections.

By no means am I sharing these statistics to paint the Maori in an unflattering light. To the contrary, I seek only to illustrate how colonization drastically affects native people. The Treaty of Waitangi, which I touched upon briefly in an earlier post, has always been a point of contention between the Maori and the European settlers, and many argue that it was not properly explained to the Maori at the time of ratification. Regardless, since colonization, Maori culture has been marginalized and, to a degree, celebrated only for tourism purposes.

I loved my visit to New Zealand. And so did my Gadling cohorts Grant and Jeremy. The landscape is beautiful and the people are some of the friendliest I have ever met. But it was a reminder that traveling is more than just seeing sites and taking photos. We should learn about other cultures as we explore the world. And, as I looked around this remote corner of the world, I felt like it shouldn’t be so white. But that’s the truth in any place where colonization has occurred.

For better or for worse, Europeans spread their cultures across the globe centuries ago. But we should never forget the native cultures that existed before colonization and struggle to maintain their identities today. That is evident in the United States, as well, where Native Americans also face challenges with unemployment, literacy rates and health issues. These problems are not unique to New Zealand but, for some reason, I noticed them more there than any other place I have traveled.

Maybe I just feel as if, after 24 hours on a plane to a far-flung locale, that I should have had a far less seamless transition. I wanted a bit of culture shock. I wanted to feel as if I was far from home. But, at the end of the day, New Zealand kind of felt like Hawaii and Vermont had a baby and England adopted it. I guess I wanted something more untouched. But maybe that doesn’t exist anymore.

Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.

In the Corner of the World – The Bay of Plenty

by Mike Barish on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

I arrived in the Bay of Plenty fresh off several days relaxing in the Bay of Islands. Now, don’t be fooled. Not every place in New Zealand uses the naming device Bay of [noun]. It’s not a game of Mad Libs. The Bay of Plenty, however, is so named because Captain Cook was able to replenish his supplies when he arrived there in the latter half of the 18th Century. That’s how things worked back then. It is also why his previous stop which netted him virtually no provisions has been saddled with such a tourism unfriendly name: Poverty Bay. However, the Bay of Plenty’s name is still deserved today as it remains just as lush as ever and now boasts myriad activities for travelers who pass through.

I visited the two most popular destinations in the Bay of Plenty, Tauranga and Mount Maunganui. They go hand-in-hand and provide a fantastic opportunity to experience the North Island’s breathtaking topography.

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If you’re visiting the Bay of Plenty, you will find most of the accommodation options in Tauranga. It’s a backpackers haven not only because of all of the tourists passing through but because of the seasonal fruit-picking work that draws young Europeans looking to extend their time in New Zealand. The Bay of Plenty is a major kiwifruit-picking region, so seasonal labor pours into the area from April through the winter (and by winter, I mean Southern Hemisphere winter). I found myself a double en suite at the Harbouside City Backpackers on The Strand, Tauranga’s main waterfront street. I was a short walk from every bar, restaurant and activity that I could possible want to enjoy.

Having arrived in the late afternoon, I got myself settled as quickly as possible and made my way out into the Tauranga nightlife. Before arriving, I had made connections with a few locals through CouchSurfing, so I had some drinking companions. Chris, a British doctor completing his residency in the Bay of Plenty, was more than happy to join me for some pints at the Crown & Badger, where Boston native and CouchSurfer Alicia kept the Tui flowing. I had never met these people in person before, but, like all my experiences in New Zealand, I immediately felt comfortable and welcome. We wiled away the hours exploring The Strand, discussing the Kiwi’s horrendous aptitude for dancing and finding the bottom of many glasses.

The next morning, having enjoyed Tauranga’s less organic pleasures, I was eager to take advantage of my natural surroundings. There is plenty to do on the water in the Bay of Plenty and I was ready to get out there. Having heard that New Zealand provides some of the best opportunities to swim with dolphins, I made a booking with Dolphin Seafaris (and not just because I love a good pun).

Dolphin Seafaris’ staff is comprised almost entirely of marine biologists who have dedicated their professional lives to studying and protecting these amazing creatures. To go out on their boat is the adult equivalent of a school field trip (and I mean that in the most positive way possible). You’ll learn about the dolphin behavior and also have the opportunity to get into the water and swim with them assuming that the conditions allow. I was fortunate enough put my wetsuit to proper use and will never forget the experience of being mere inches away from our aquatic cousins. The dolphins frolicked around the boat and I truly enjoyed a shared experience with them.

Rather than return to Tauranga, I asked the captain to drop me off at the pier near Mount Maunganui. The Mount, as it is often called (or Mauao in Maori) is connected to Taurangua by a thin peninsula. It’s not so much a mountain as it is a 700+ foot extinct volcano that is noticeable from virtually anywhere in the Bay of Plenty.

I decided to hike up the 2km summit trail and see the view for myself. From the pier, it’s only a five minute walk to the Mount’s base. If you are looking for a more leisurely stroll, you can take advantage of the 3km walking path that loops around the base. Shortly into the summit walk, I realized that I was not alone. The Mount is home to sheep. Lots of sheep. New Zealand boasts a 10-1 sheep-to-person ratio, so this was not entirely unexpected. But, as a New Yorker, until I found myself alone on a hill within spitting distance of two-dozen sheep, I didn’t really know what that ratio would look like in person. Well, it looks like a lot of sheep poop on the trail.

It’s a rather easy walk up to the summit and the views along the way are magnificent. At the summit, I enjoyed a 360 degree view of the entire Bay of Plenty and lingered there to catch my breath and be alone with my thoughts.

I made my way back to the base and realized that I hadn’t eaten anything since I took advantage of the free breakfast on the dolphin boat. I headed into Mount Maunganui (which is also the name of the town – try to stay with me) and immediately made my way to Maunganui Road, which is a stretch of restaurants, shops and galleries. Not one to pass up local fish and chips, I enjoyed the largest pile of fried food I have ever consumed at the tiny but excellent Mount Fish & Chips. Wrapped in newspaper and fried to golden perfection, it was the freshest serving of fish and chips that I have ever tasted.

Satiated, I hopped on the Bay Hopper Bus for the short ride back over to Tauranga. I cleaned myself up and decided to take advantage of my proximity to the bars yet again. Chris was nice enough to join me for another night on the town, and we enjoyed a few pints while watching the India-New Zealand cricket match that was being played down in Wellington. It was during this night out that I found myself comforted by a wonderful realization. I was an American who had learned cricket in India sitting in a bar in New Zealand watching a match with a Brit and it all felt normal. Maybe it was the euphoria from my fulfilling afternoon adventures or just the alcohol, but I felt like I was belonged there.

That’s the wonderful thing about traveling. You get back what you put into it. And if you share yourself with New Zealand, it will offer plenty in return. Just like Captain Cook discovered over two centuries ago.

View Mike’s Bay of Plenty photo gallery. Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.

Aussie/NZ animosity reaches new levels with motel ban

by Tom Johansmeyer on

The 16,000 residents of Lower Hutt, New Zealand learned the meaning of “demoralizing” this week. The owner of the Palmerston North Supreme Motor Lodge (an Australian) has prohibited the people of Lower Hutt from staying at his motel. I’ve been banned from some pretty nice places … nice. If some motel gave me the boot, I’d be humiliated.

Guests from Lower Hutt – and the nearby larger town of Wainuiomata – aren’t worth the headache, said Steve Donnelly, owner of the property. A bunch of midemeanors by visiting high school sports teams triggered the decision, but it seems to have been a long time in the making. According to the Sydney Morning Herald, “Having had about 100 people from there over the last couple of years and maybe one that we liked … it is not worth it and we would do the same to anyone who causes us that level of stress.”

Wainuiomata Indoor Sports Club stands accused of finally having pushed Donnelly over the edge, though club owner Calena Hura denies any wrongdoing. The principal of Wainuiomata, Rob Mill, blames the motel management (as Hura does).

So, how does the community fight back: people threaten to stay at the motel for a week!

In the Corner of the World – Where hitchhikers are welcome

by Grant Martin on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

We picked up Kevin near Springs Junction, nearly 200 kilometers southeast of Picton, New Zealand, standing on the side of the road with a backpack in the middle of nowhere. Like us, he was headed to Christchurch, so he tossed his gear into the back seat of our Mitsubishi Colt and jumped in behind it.

Among travelers, you always start with the same hour of conversation: Where are you from? Where have you been in New Zealand? Where do you think that we should go next? Kevin was traveling across the entirety of both islands on a series of hikes carrying his tent, sleeping bag and stove on his back and using the kindness of others for transportation. He was probably a few years younger than us, clean cut with a standard hiking fleece and khaki cargo pants. I could have confused him with the cashier at Whole Foods.

As a recent geography major from Canada, in fact, our friend had bounced around to a few jobs after finishing college, but had never found his groove. Eventually, he saved up enough money to voyage to New Zealand. Maybe to find himself. Maybe to stay. He never said.And that’s how most conversations went between Kevin and his drivers. Light fluff, catching up, swapping travel stories and talking about the beauty and luster of New Zealand. Amazingly, he didn’t have a bad experience from his entire weeks of hitching across the country. The longest wait that he had ever experienced was before we picked him up – a total of fifteen minutes. Among his worst stories? An art dealer in a Land Rover who talked a little bit too much.

We all agreed though: hitchhiking isn’t something that we would try in most other countries. Something about the friendliness and the culture of the Kiwis makes New Zealand perfect for backpacking – the warmth of their characters, the trust of another person, the wanderer buried in every single driver. It fosters a sense of security and altruism among hitchers in this corner of the world, and the resulting experience, especially in Kevin’s case, is definitely worth the risk.

Would he recommend it to anyone else traveling through this corner of the world? Absolutely. While not for everyone, hitchhiking is a unique experience. One meets random characters, saves a ton of money and opens oneself up to the improbability of mishaps on the road – in one of the safest countries of the world mind you. Isn’t that a core fundamental of adventure travel?

Before long we found ourselves in front of the hotel in Christchurch, Kevin with his backpack headed towards his hostel and our paths diverging. The phone number that we scribbled on our Gadling.com business card was wrong, I now remember — it went to a phone that had stopped working days ago. But it didn’t matter. Our service as drivers was done now, the exchange complete, two travel worlds briefly merging for a road trip to Christchurch.

In the Corner of the World – Bay of Islands

by Mike Barish on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

I arrived in Paihia after a four-hour bus ride north from Auckland. I’d spent that time staring out the window at the lush countryside of New Zealand’s North Island. I’d seen rolling hills, green meadows and plenty of sheep. For all I had heard about New Zealand’s gorgeous coastline, my first 14 hours in this far corner of the world had been marked by a landscape that looked a whole lot like Vermont. That’s not to say that the interior of New Zealand isn’t spectacularly gorgeous, but I had selected the Northland as the first desitination on my trip because I was itching to see the dynamic coastal features of the South Pacific. And then it happened. My InterCity bus pulled into Paihia and it seemed as if all that lay between me and the end of the Earth was the bluest water I had ever seen and a few tiny islands speckled along the horizon. I had reached the Bay of Islands.

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The Bay of Islands is a must-see for travelers visiting New Zealand for two key reasons: Its history and its natural beauty.

Let’s start with a brief history lesson. Just across the Waitangi River from Paihia is the town of Waitangi where, in 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi ceded the nation’s sovereignty to Britain. The treaty was signed in the home of Captain William Hobson and was drafted in both English and Māori. It was signed by representatives of the British Crown and the five northern Māori tribes and copies of the treaty were disseminated throughout the island for review and agreement by the other tribes. However, before all of the signed copies were returned, Hobson claimed New Zealand for Britain on the basis that the Māori ceded the North Island in the treaty and that Captain Cook had discovered the South Island and claimed it for the British despite the fact there there was already a large Māori population living there.

Because of this deceit by the British (actual or perceived, depending on who is explaining the tale to you), the Treaty of Waitangi is a point of contention in the nation’s history. I visited the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where you can see the house where the treaty was drafted, as well as the world’s largest war canoe. The museum explains the history of the treaty but whitewashes the story so as to make it more pleasant for the mostly Anglo tourists. Still, it’s worth a visit to see the birthplace of modern New Zealand.

Across the street from the Waitangi Treaty House is the entrance to the Haruru Falls Trail. Finding myself with nothing to do on a gorgeous late summer day in Waitangi, I decided hike the trail. Since it’s not a loop, I hired a tuk tuk to take me to Haruru Falls, at the opposite end of the trail. The falls are by no means tall or awe-inspiring, but they are still a highlight of the walk and offer some small pools in which you can swim if you don’t mind water so cold that your muscles completely tense up. From the falls, the roughly 5km trail winds through woodlands, marshes and mangroves and offers glimpses of native birds and lush flora. I encountered maybe a half dozen people on my hike, which allowed me to be mostly alone with my thoughts and nature as I walked. Along the way, there are signs explaining the various plants and ecosystems that you encounter.

After the hike, I met up with some friends that I had made on the previous day’s bus ride and took the short ferry ride to Russell. Situated on a peninsula that juts into the Bay of Islands, Russell was the first European settlement in New Zealand. The ferry ride is about 15-20 minutes and docks by The Strand in Russell, which is the heart of Russell’s tourist area. Here you will find virtually all of Russell’s restaurants and several of its historical sites. While Russell was once a haven for drunken sailors and criminals, it is now one of the quaintest and most peaceful places you will ever visit. While Paihia and Waitangi offer prime examples of Māori culture in New Zealand, Russell perfectly encapsulates the European influence.

As you step off the ferry in Russell, you feel as if you have been transported to New England. The small houses and seafood restaurants add to the serene charm of the natural landscape. Rather than hang around the pier with the collection of tourists who had also elected to visit Russell for the day, my new friends and I walked a few kilometers to the other side of town and made our way to Long Beach.

Long Beach provides a gorgeous sanctuary from the touristy main stretch of Russell. With cliffs on either side, the beach is located in a small bay with some of the most pristine waters I have ever seen. After a short nap on the beach to recharge my batteries after the Haruru Falls Trail hike, I swam in the bay to cool off and, for the first time, found myself physically in the Bay of Islands.

With dusk approaching, we made our way back to Paihia. Because it caters to backpackers, the town offers a fair amount of hostels and inexpensive accommodations. I spent two nights at the Pickled Parrot, located close to many of the other hostels, as well as several restaurants and bars. Almost all of the hostels offer dorm accommodations along with double and twin rooms. I shared a dorm with seven other strangers from Germany, England, Belgium and Brazil. Paihia’s nightlife revolves around young backpakers, seafood and alcohol. You’ll find no shortage of fish and chips, Kiwi beers like Tui and excellent local wines. I had no problem striking up conversations with other travelers and never took a meal alone.

It’s no wonder that Paihia is considered “The Jewel of the Bay of Islands.” It’s the gateway to the region’s other destinations, such as Russell and Keri Keri, adjacent to Waitangi, the birthplace of modern New Zealand and offers some of the best of both old and new. As the first stop on my trip to New Zealand, it whet my appetite for more of what this beautiful country had to offer. After a few days in the Bay of Islands, it was time for me to pack up and get back on a bus. There was more to see; but if my first stop was any indication, this corner of the world had plenty to offer.

View Mike’s Bay of Islands photo gallery. Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.