Drinking in San Juan’s convenience stores

by Grant Martin on

Vacationing in any foreign place takes a little bit of acclimating to get used to the bar scene. You have to know the right bars and locations to go to avoid being labeled as a tourist or getting ripped off. For example, my friend Ered always loves going to “Wine Bars” when we’re in foreign countries — but if something has WINE BAR written in English on the front facade, it’s catering to tourists, right?

In Puerto Rico, many of the locals head to colmados for a cold frosty beverage, which are basically a combination of convenience store, bar and meeting place. Most colmados are of simple construction, with a rudimentary bar in which are built a few coolers holding bottles of Medalla Light, some standing coolers with beer and energy drinks and a blender.

Despite the oft filthy and low lit atmosphere of the colmado, these establishments make up a quaint niche of nightlife in Latin America. The one we swung by for a few pina coladas last weekend was shoddily put together with plywood and populated with torn up barstools and passive Puerto Ricans. We ran into our waitress from that evening’s dinner who told us all about her lesbian girlfriend then continued to hang out with us for the rest of the evening.

Check out Robyn’s page on colmado’s in the Dominican Republic for a perspective of the stores from another Caribbean island and next time you’re tempted to buy pina coladas at the convenience store, jump all over it.

Eating mallorcas in Old San Juan

by Jeremy Kressmann on

This past weekend I had an opportunity to experience the many pleasures of Puerto Rico’s Old San Juan neighborhood. Ringed by massive stone walls and the imposing El Morro fortress, the historic heart of this former Spanish colonial capital provides a virtual feast for the senses. As I meandered the area’s narrow cobblestone streets, I passed by block after block of majestic, pastel-colored colonial facades. My ears picked up strains of salsa music cascading from upper story windows, while groups of old men sat chatting, playing dominoes in the area’s tiny local parks.

But perhaps the most overpowering sense was the delicious smell of baking bread that came when I opened the door to La Bombonera, arguably Old San Juan’s most famous bakery and cafe. This old gem has been churning out homemade pastries and bottomless cups of coffee for tourists and San Juan regulars since it opened in 1902. The menu is just the basics – coffee, pastries, simple entrées, and what is arguably the house specialty, the mallorcas. Mallorcas are a sweet pastry which is typically grilled and buttered, then topped with a generous heap of powdered sugar. If you’re feeling particularly ravenous, grab one with ham and cheese in the middle. The sweet of the powdered sugar and dough combined with the savory taste of the ham and the cheese is heavenly. I ended up ordering two. I’m told the house coffee is also superb – they brew using a monstrous contraption brought from Havana in 1898. Take that, Starbucks.

So if you find yourself in Old San Juan some ungodly bright Saturday morning, hungry and hungover from one too many piña coladas the night before, make sure to stop by La Bombonera. But get there early – the line is probably already out the door.

California: Get to Puerto Rico this spring for under 300$

by Grant Martin on

I’ve been putting off sending an alert about this fare for the past few days because it wasn’t really excellent enough — but today it got excellent. Earlier prices from Los Angeles and San Francisco to San Juan, Puerto Rico, were about 275-300$ for dates in April and May, which, even though is a pretty competitive price, isn’t fall-off-your-chair outstanding.

Today however, I’m picking up prices of about 225$ round trip from San Francisco for dates through May. That’s a pretty killer steal for a 3600 mile trip into the Caribbean.

Ever been to Old San Juan? I’m going for the second time next weekend and it’s a ton of fun. A wealth of casinos, restaurants and bars stuff the colonial streets of Old San Juan, where you can wander between hedonistic drinking, quaint shopping and a relaxing afternoon on the beach in just a few steps.

Get bored? Cross the bay to the Bacardi Rum Factory or drive an hour west to the Arecibo Observatory where they shot parts of the Brosnan Bond films.

Use a flexible search on Orbitz or Travelocity to nail down dates but book ASAP if you want to take advantage of these fares — there’s no telling when these are going to get yanked.

And be sure to check out Jaunted’s guides to San Juan for some ideas on where to eat and sleep in the Old City.

Theatre at Sea Cruise: Top-Notch Actors and the Amazon

by Jamie Rhein on

Lately, I’ve been thinking I ought to go on a cruise. Geek Cruises perked up my interest. So did finding out I could get credit to renew teaching certification on another. Here’s the cruise of cruises–possibly the right combination of reasons to take in some luxury, see the world and have a wonderful time being entertained by the best.

Regent Cruises has an intriguing option for taking a vacation and maximizing a holiday experience. Theatre at Sea Cruise (a venture between The Theatre Guild Broadway and the cruise line) involves traveling 1,000 miles of the Amazon in Brazil (plus trips to Barbados, Puerto Rico and Dominica) with stars like Edward Asner, Patricia Neal and Eli Wallah who put on plays at night–one at the 1890s Manus Opera House. From what I read, the cruise on the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (February 21-March 4) sounds like the line between audience and actors are blurred. The actors don’t disappear between the times the curtain goes up and down. Instead, the after the play parties are for everyone. The thing I also like about this cruise is that Brazil is an integral part of the experience. Along the way, the tour takes in ports beyond just the usual beach and shopping fare–there are two stops at indigenous villages, although I do wonder what the people in the villages think when a bunch of tourists traveling by luxury liner descend on them.

If you are looking for luxury and creative energy that crackles, this might be it. When I opened the email from The New York Times Ticket Watch expecting to find discount tickets to a show on Broadway, I sure felt energized finding this offering instead. If someone can swing this, I say, go for it. If you can’t make this one, how about the Around the World Tour on the Queen Victoria in 2009?

Puerto Rico’s Guanica Dry Forest

by Erik Olsen on

I spent a long weekend diving and cavorting around Vieques Island off of Puerto Rico a few months ago, and I was very pleased with the experience. I particularly enjoyed swimming at night and paddling in the Bio Bay Reserve there, a small inlet wherein swim gazzillions of luminescent plankton that seem to magically light up around you when you swim in the water. But one thing I noticed about Vieques was how dry and rather barren the island is. Don’t know what I was expecting exactly. Maybe just a lot more palm trees.

The recollection of this aridness is what came to mind when I read this finely wrought piece about Guanica Dry Forest, a state forest on Puerto Rico’s southwest coast. It is dry there…hence the name. But the author encounters a variety of birds and wildlife that help make the place seem far more exotic than a visit to Puerto Rico. She also comes across the “Guayacan Centenario,” a plant older than Columbus. Or older than Columbus would be if here were still alive…in which case he’d likely be very shriveled and green. But I’d still have a beer with him. Anyway, my interest was piqued by this piece and I confess a tremor of regret that I never saw the Guanica Dry Forest during my own trip the PR. Perhaps next time.