Big ship cruise not for you? Try gunkhole cruising

by Chris Owen on

Gunkhole cruising is cruising in shallow water, meandering from place to place and spending the nights in coves. The term refers to the gunk, or mud, typical of the creeks, coves, marshes, sloughs, and rivers that are referred to as gunkhole.

This is a place where big cruise ships can’t go.

It’s “that ideal but shallow anchorage that was dicey at best to get into in the first place and impossible to leave behind after experiencing. It’s the place where you might be all alone, at least for most of the time, unless you count the wildlife. It’s the place you never mention to anyone for fear of spoiling what only you alone know about. It’s the place you dream abouta yachter’s paradise of quiet, scenic anchorages” says CoastalBoating.net.

Beginning September 14, 2012, American Safari Cruises tiny, 22-guest Safari Quest does this sailing from Seattle.

“The intimate nature of this upscale yacht is ideal for navigating among the islands and scenic inlets in Washington and British Columbia,” said Tim Jacox, executive vice president of sales and marketing. “Sailing from Seattle will be more convenient for many people, and we’ve also increased the number of sailings in fall and spring.”

Sailing from Seattle, the yacht passes through the historic Hiram M. Chittenden Locks to Puget Sound. In Victoria, guests enjoy a tour of Butchart Gardens with a traditional British high tea, a visit to the Royal British Columbia Museum and the historic Empress Hotel.

A flexible itinerary allows time to search out and view wildlife such as orca whales, eagles, seals, sea lions, porpoise, black bears and deer. Expedition (gunkhole) cruising means the yacht freely explores among the inlets and islands of the Pacific Northwest. An onboard expedition leader provides expert narration while leading waterborne or land-based adventures including kayaking, hiking, beachcombing and skiff rides. Paddle boards are also available for solo adventures in scenic waters.

Other highlights of the cruise include exploration by foot or by kayak in Princess Louisa Inlet, only half a mile wide and culminating at the spectacular Chatterbox Falls; scenery and solitude while relaxing in the upper deck hot tub; stroll along Nanaimo’s picturesque waterfront promenade; a visit to the town of Friday Harbor with boutiques, galleries and a Whale Museum; hiking along a bluff to Turning Point Lighthouse on Stuart Island and kayaking among the sheltered Harmony Islands.

Cruise fares start at $3,995 per person based on double occupancy. The inclusive cruise includes all from-the-yacht activities and equipment; transfers; all meals; fine wine, premium spirits and microbrews; and all port charges, taxes and fees. The 22-guest Safari Quest features a hot tub, Tempur-pedic mattresses, heated tile floors in all bathrooms and upper category balconies. An all-American crew has a guest-crew ratio of 2 to 1. Yachts can be booked as a private charter or by individual stateroom.

Well-known in yachting circles as a favorite for gunkhole cruising the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands star in American Safari Cruises’ Pacific Northwest Passage itinerary returning in 2012. The cruise features Washington and British Columbia with a new homeport of Seattle, Washington.

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Un-cruise line heads to Hawaii, in style

by Chris Owen on

Not long ago, we introduced InnerSea Discoveries, an up-close personal adventure experience that just happens to travel on water. The tiny, 2-ship cruise line does what they call an “un-cruise” in Alaska for up to 76 passengers that are about as far away from the big cruise ship experience as you can get and still be floating. Now its time to get to know sister-line American Safari Cruises, also offering a unique adventure experience on water. This time heading to Hawaii. In style.

The darn-near-all-inclusive cruises include all from-the-yacht activities and equipment; transfers; meals; fine wine, premium spirits and microbrews in addition to only the “port charges, taxes and fees” that are included in a big-ship cruise. All American Safari yachts feature a hot tub, Tempur-pedic mattresses, heated tile floors in all bathrooms and upper category balconies. Some also feature saunas, a complimentary massage and Jacuzzi tubs. An all-American crew has a guest-crew ratio of 2 to 1.

“This type of inclusive yacht cruise is a totally new way to vacation in Hawaii” said Tim Jacox, executive vice president of sales and marketing. “We are an exclusive floating resort that cruises between the islands to show you the best of Hawaii. Going ashore with only 36 total guests means cultural experiences are more personal and authentic. And since we provide adventure gear and include activities, it’s 100% fun and relaxation.”

The 36-guest Safari Explorer sails inter-island Hawaiian adventure cruises between Maui and the Big Island (and reverse). From November through April, weeklong Hawaiian Seascapes and 10-night Hawaii’s Traditional Shores itineraries explore Maui, Molokai, Lanai, Molokini and the Big Island.

The 22-guest Safari Quest sails weeklong Aquarium of the World itineraries in Mexico’s Sea of Cortés from November through April. Sailing roundtrip from La Paz, Mexico, the flexible itinerary takes time to seek out the myriad marine life in this World Heritage biosphere reserve and explores Isla Partida, Isla San José, Bahia Agua Verde, Los Islotes, Isla Coyote, Isla San Francisco and Isla Espiritu.

In both warm water destinations, the two yachts feature exciting and novel holiday travel Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s, Valentine’s Day (with a special Hawaii Romance Package), Easter and special Kids in Nature family departures during popular spring break weeks in March.

A relaxed itinerary of cruising from cove-to-cove among islands in Hawaii and the Sea of Cortés maximizes the yachts ability to act as a platform for water based adventures such as kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, swimming from the yacht’s swim step, snorkeling, braving the rope swing, sailing, skiff explorations and tubing. Guided excursions are led by expert on board naturalists.

In both destinations, exclusive cultural explorations ashore are included and led by the yacht’s expedition leaders. Guests in the Sea of Cortés visit Isla Coyote, a small island inhabited by the Cuevas fishing family, where guests will tour the village and visit with the family. On Hawaii’s Molokai, guests meet a local family for guided walks through the valley focusing on history and archaeology, a chance to help restore ancient taro terraces and a traditional Hawaiian paina celebration and feast.

Considering one of these? Better move fast; if American Safari to Hawaii and Mexico fills up as well as InnerSea Discoveries did to Alaska, the season will sell out fast.

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New Galapagos travel rules help protect the islands for future visitors

by Kraig Becker on

A month ago we told you about some significant changes to the rules of travel in the Galapagos Islands that will go in effect in 2012. In a nutshell, the new regulations say that a ship cannot visit the same island twice within a 14-day period, which will likely have an impact on the available itineraries that are currently being offered to visit the place. While the intent of that story was to inform travelers of these changes and how they could impact any future plans to visit the Galapagos, the article failed to mention exactly why these changes are being made.

As most travelers know, the Galapagos are a unique and very special place. Located approximately 525 miles west of Ecuador, they are home to a large number of plant and animal species, many of which aren’t found anywhere else on the planet. Those creatures include several types of sea turtles, the flightless cormorant, warm water penguins, and a marine iguana that actually dives under the ocean to capture its prey.

The Islands were famously visited by Charles Darwin, aboard the HMS Beagle, back in 1835, and his observations of the endemic plant and animal life there led to his groundbreaking work The Origin of Species. The Galapagos are like a fantastic, living laboratory, offering Darwin, and other researchers that followed, an opportunity to observe the way animals adapt to their environment in a natural setting that is unlike any other on the planet.Because of the diversity of plants and animals on the Islands, UNESCO designated the Galapagos as a World Heritage Site in 1978, and in recent years it has become a popular tourist destination. So popular in fact, that the number visitors has begun to threaten the fragile environments of the Islands, which were amongst the most pristine, well preserved wildernesses on Earth. In an effort to ensure that they stay that way, the Ecuadorian government has instituted the new travel rules to help prevent over crowding and to spread tourist traffic more evenly across the 19 islands that make up the chain.

It should be noted that while these new regulations will force tour operators to change their itineraries, and in some cases the way they do business, the announcement has been met with universal applause. By prohibiting vessels from visiting the same location twice in a two week period, they are also limiting the size of the crowds on an island on any given day. This makes the experience all that much better for the visitors, while keeping the impact on the environment to a minimum as well.

While doing some research on this topic, I corresponded with several tour operators, and it quickly became clear to me how much they loved the Galapagos. Each of them remarked about how happy they were to see these regulations put into place and how it would help preserve the Islands for future visitors to enjoy as well. This is an example of how sustainable tourism can allow us to continue to visit the spectacular places of our planet, while also protecting them from harm. As avid travelers, I’m sure that is something that we can all get behind.

Adventure cruise line prepares for inaugural season

by Chris Owen on
Getting ready for opening day is a big job for any business. No matter how experienced, knowledgeable and prepared workers may be, there are always unexpected things that come up. If your business is active, adventure cruises in the wilderness of Alaska the unexpected could mean life-threatening emergencies far from the nearest emergency room.

InnerSea Discoveries (@InnerSeaD) is preparing for its sold-out inaugural season. Sailing active, adventure cruises in Alaska the small 5-ship line looks to be perfect for “the active, outdoor person who is more experiential based” InnerSea’s Dan Blanchard told Gadling recently. On a typical “un-cruise” the line hopes to “pull the curtain back on the natural world and let people see it” says Blanchard which means actively engaging the wilderness.


As opposed to a standard Alaska cruise which pretty much floats on by the best stuff, InnerSea Discoveries passengers get up close and personal with the land of the midnight sun. That exposure promises to add a delicious element of risk, the unknown and uncertainty as each voyage will surely take on a flavor of it’s own. It also bumps up the need for emergency training.

In addition to customary training and certification, InnerSea Discoveries’ crew members are getting Wilderness First Responder training this week in Seattle from the Wilderness Medicine Training Center. While crew members will become certified, the training is far from a typical classroom setting.

To get prepared, the line’s first mates, second mates, expedition leaders and expedition guides are taking part in the hands-on training that covers everything from trauma to wilderness CPR. All good stuff to know on a small ship that does not include a full-size medical center with operating rooms, doctors, nurses and suckers for the kids.

CEO Blanchard himself is prepared too. After sailing across the Pacific for two years in a 42-foot sailboat, Blanchard realized cruising is “a lot more than a port to port experience.” Passengers on Innersea Discoveries can engage in a variety of off-ship activities, most included in the price, or stay on board and do nothing but enjoy the majestic Alaskan scenery.

I doubt many will.

Flickr photo by leakytyr8

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Alaska Adventure Cruise: For people that hate even the idea of a cruise

by Chris Owen on

You’re a packer, hiker, camper, flier or photo freak so “Alaska” you’re good with, “Adventure you’re fine with too but the word “Cruise” sends your brain into unpleasant places. Travel to you might be getting to interesting places you have never been or returning to awesome memories once again. On your own. With good gear. You choose Independent over guided when you can. Adventure activities turn you on.

About the last place in the world that you want to be is on a cruise ship. The idea of herds of people bellying up to the buffet, playing bingo or climibing a simulated rock wall make you laugh outloud. You’ll catch dinner, look to the stars at night for entertainment and do a real mountain if given half a chance.

Still, cruise vacations have become more popular than ever and major cruise lines are looking for ways to make their line unique. You could care less.

Some build new, larger ships packed with more onboard programming no one passenger could possibly take advantage of. So what? You hate them.

Others focus on their existing fleet, refining what they do with a keen eye on what their target passenger is looking for, molding what they do to match. Again, give you a home where the buffalo roam and you’re in heaven.

But wait.

Now there is new InnerSea Discoveries, an up-close personal adventure experience that just happens to travel on water.

A tiny, 2-ship cruise line, InnerSea Discoveries does what they call “un-cruises”. In their inaugural season which starts in May, the line will do Alaska Adventure cruises for up to 49 passengers (that’s forty-nine, not 4,900) that are about as far away from the big cruise ship experience as you can get and still be floating.

Actually, the floating part, in this application, can provide a better travel experience than even the most adventurous independent traveler could get.

“The great success of the Ultimate Adventure proves there is a real demand for this type of active adventure in Southeast Alaska,” said Tim Jacox, of InnnerSea Discoveries. “People are choosing to spend two weeks exploring the remote wilderness-places they’ve never heard of-and that’s the beauty of it. It’s unrushed, uncrowded and truly unbelievable.”

First difference: No Internet. This will knock out about half the regular cruising public. You? Mr.Ms Adventure Traveler person? No big deal.

These handy-sized ships visit ports that big ships can’t get to, stop along the way were big ships can’t go and see wilderness big ships and the hordes of people on them scare away. In fact, the line’s Green Guardians program requires their small groups of passengers to “leave only footprints behind” while drinking in nature and it’s wild inhabitants.

“We believe it is a privilege to explore the world’s natural wonders, step ashore in remote destinations and meet the people living in these breathtaking wilderness environments. While employing sustainable travel principles and management practices to ensure we are responsible stewards of the environment is a core part of our business, we also strive to leave a positive impact on the people and communities we visit around the world. InnerSea Discoveries’ office and vessel personnel support the following organizations with donations or volunteer time.” says the line’s Green Guardian pledge.

Each trip, starting at $1795 per person, is different too with a choice of personalized Alaska Inside Passage itineraries featuring a 7-night Juneau to Ketchikan Eastern Coves or a 7-night Ketchikan to Juneau Western Coves sailing. Ultimate adventurers can combine the 2 cruises into a 14-night round-trip cruise from Juneau or experience 900-miles of the Inside Passage on a 14-night cruise between Seattle to Juneau (or reverse).

Unlike massive cruise liner sailings, most of what would be called “shore excursions” and carry an extra fee on big ships is included in the price.

Whale-Watching? You are in a small ship that can get up close. No charge.

Kayak Adventure? They have plenty for everyone. Free.

Inflatable boat excursions, Hiking, Caving, Beachcombing, Snorkeling, Birding, Glacier Viewing; all included.

Want to talk gear?

The ship’s kayaking fleet includes Looksha T and Manitou II kayaks, Surftech Softop and Stand-up Paddle Boards, Black Diamond trail compact trekking poles, REI EcoSensitive, lightweight and kids daypacks. If overnight-camping they provide the tent or forest service cabin, sleeping bags, food/drink, binoculars, cooking supplies, walking sticks, backpacks and a radio to stay in contact with the ship.


There are optional expedition activities available varying from “LeConte Glacier Floatplane Tour” ($200) to “Whale Island Overnight Camping” ($150). All are rated from 1 to 3 on an activity level scale with 1 being excursions that require basic physical fitness and 3 being excursions that require exertion, agility, sure-footedness on hikes and/or stamina for the most challenging workout.

No, the normal cruise ship passenger would not be along for this ride.

On board there are things to do, but not like the big ships. That’s not what this is all about.

No big pool:You were just in the ocean in a kayak or snorkeling or doing a polar bear swim.

No tight schedule: They pride themselves on flexibility and stop for a pod of orcas or some bubble-feeding humpbacks.

No formal night: It’s casual all the way here with more of a explorers-come-back-to-basecamp feel aboard ship.

No rock-climbing wall: You just climbed up the side of a mountain if you wanted to.


Retuning from the wilderness, passengers will find adequately appointed cabins feature Queen or twin beds, private bath with shower and a view window. Most are double occupancy but each ship has solo cabins as well. Meals include a healthy menu featuring locally-caught seafood . You may have had a hand in dinner earlier in the day. A hot Espresso, coffee, tea bar is open 24-hours a day too.

But here, the ship is a place to come back to, like a base camp from which the few along for the adventure return to at night. In this application, a floating camp makes sense to even the most hard-core travelers. Small ships sail up close to glaciers, whales, signts and sounds that people can not get to on foot or big cruise ships would scare off if they could even get close enough to see.

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Images courtesy of InnerSea Discoveries

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