Articles tagged “adventure travel”

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Bowermaster’s Adventures — Overfishing the Galapagos Islands

The equation is straightforward: Too many people attempting to live permanently in the Galapagos + too few jobs to go around = a percentage are resorting to illegal economies to survive. Shark finning is one of those illegalities, and still growing. Financed by mafias based in mainland Ecuador, fins are taken – hacked off, the useless carcasses tossed overboard – and sent abroad for shark fin soup. Japanese are the biggest culprits though there are restaurants as far away as Norway and Germany, which sell the soup as well. The sad reality is that not only is it a complete waste of the shark but the fins have absolutely no taste, no nutritional value. It’s all about the show. If you can afford shark fin soup – at a business meeting, wedding, anniversary – it means you’ve got the bucks to spend on a frivolity.

You’ve seen the television ads recently promoting various shark weeks? Fear continues to sell mediocre TV, thus the boom of such shows. Another statistic: How many people are killed by sharks each year worldwide? On average, four or five. How many sharks does man kill each year, some for food, others for showy displays of money? More than seventy million. It’s the sharks that should be swimming away from us as fast as they can.
Over fishing around the globe is a huge problem. The over fishing of sharks, especially the big ones, known as “apex predators” (including the great white and reef sharks) is particularly damaging to the marine cycle since sharks maintain the populations of smaller fish that in turn feed on smaller fish that people consume commercially. Minus the predators, these sub-predators run rampant and decimate smaller fish stocks. While we may think there are unlimited numbers of fish in the sea, the more we rapaciously take the fewer species will live on into the coming decades. One more statistic? The World Wildlife Fund expects all of the fish that we know today to be gone by 2050. That’s what we should be scared of, not the very slim potential of becoming lunch while enjoying a sunny holiday at the beach. (To find a detailed chart and database of the world’s endangered sharks, visit the Shark Foundation.)

%Gallery-77072%Recent attempts to bolster international fishing laws may be getting an extra push in the U.S. pending the passage of legislation now being considered in the Senate (and recently passed in the House). The legislation is designed to close most of the loopholes in the current ban on shark finning in American waters. Hopefully other nations will follow suit.

In the Galapagos we spent time with Godfrey Merlen, who represents San Francisco-based Wild Aid there. A twenty-year resident, he leads the group’s local efforts against illegal wildlife trafficking. Small groups of paid informants keep him alert to who in the relatively small community are shark finning (as well as poaching sea cucumbers and other at-risk species). Unfortunately once the fins are back in mainland Ecuador, even when seized by officials they often end up back in the illegal markets. Corruption is a boom business in Ecuador too.
“Over fishing of a number species is a reality in the Galapagos and in some ways – for some species, like lobsters – it’s a little bit late to talk about. We also know that thousands and thousands of sea cucumbers are recovered from illegal fisheries every year, which has had a depressing effect on the remaining population and makes management of it near impossible.

Bowermaster’s Galapagos — Chapter V from gadling on Vimeo.

“Still, even though we know it’s going on, illegal sea cucumber gathering is an active component of the fisheries here and brings in considerable money. Just recently, at the end February, there was a capture of thirty sacks of cucumbers on the mainland, about 3,000 pounds, with an estimated value of about $200,000. This is a lot of money and a lot of sea cucumbers. Most of them came from right here in the Galapagos Marine Reserve. Local fishermen say, What are we supposed to do, what are we supposed to fish? Lobster and grouper are nearly gone. So they get into the illegal market very, very simply and easily. Though the national park has patrol boats and keeps up vigilance the area is enormous and enforcement is difficult. As a result it’s been extremely easy to export illegal produce from the Galapagos.

“It’s exactly the same with the shark fin. Sharking finning, the removal of the fins and leaving the bodies to rot either in the ocean or on the shoreline, has become very common in Galapagos. Again, the fishermen say, “I have a lot of debt, I need to buy a new motor for my boat, and I don’t have any money.” Then someone comes along and says, Well, okay, I’ll lend you money but what I want is sea cucumbers, shark fins, sea lion penises, seahorses, whatever is the going mode especially in the far eastern countries where money is not a problem. Huge sums of money can be poured into a place like the Galapagos to fuel an illegal fishery. In the long run of course things can only go from bad to worse for the fishery.

“As resources decline whether through legal or illegal fisheries the resource is the basis of the fisherman’s economy. As those resources decline, incomes decline too and the cost of living keeps going up. Sooner or later the price of fuel will jump back up; currently it’s a very false $1 a gallon for diesel. What the fishermen fail to understand is that ultimately all these illegal activities combined with the lack of a sufficiently strong fisheries management, at a certain point the fishing sector of the economy will collapse.

“At the moment the fisherman finds himself in a really hot spot, partially through his own failure to appreciate the risks he’s running. He may make money today but tomorrow he will not make money. He’s already discovered that with the sea cucumber. Basically the fishermen have very little money because the resource is disappearing.”

Coming attractions: Ethiopia

There aren’t many countries that can truly call themselves unique. France has great cuisine, but so does Italy. India has challenging and beautiful mountaineering routes, and so does Peru.

But Ethiopia really is unique. It’s the only African country that was never colonized, and as far as paleontologists can tell, it’s where the human race evolved from our earlier ancestors.

Ethiopia’s Great Rift Valley is a treasure trove of fossils that have revealed our origins from something not quite human and not quite ape, and our slow evolution into something more recognizable. These fossils, including the famous Lucy, are on show at the National Museum in Addis Ababa. The great lesson evolution has to teach us is that we’re all related. Ethiopia is everyone’s hometown.

Ethiopia’s great history didn’t end with simply giving birth to the human race. It was home to a series of important civilizations that left a rich cultural legacy. The country boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the eleven churches of Lalibela cut out of solid rock. The one pictured here is called Bete Medhane Alem (“Savior of the World”) and is believed to be the largest rock-hewn church anywhere. Another entry to the list is the ancient capital of Aksum with its towering monoliths. Aksum’s rulers controlled one of the ancient world’s great empires for a thousand years from about 50 BC until 950 AD.

Ethiopians are proud of their history and near Aksum is the battlefield of Adowa, where in 1896 an Italian army determined to colonize the country was gobbled up by a well-armed and disciplined Ethiopian force in one of the biggest defeats of a colonial force by a native army in history. The Italians returned in 1935 under Mussolini, this time with tanks and poison gas, and took over for a few brutal years, but they never really controlled the country and got promptly ejected during World War Two.This is a large nation, almost twice the size of France, with several different cultural and ethnic groups and a mix of Christian, Muslim, and animist beliefs. The population of 79 million speaks 83 languages and more than 200 dialects. In the rugged highlands of the north are the Amhara and Tigrayana, who are mostly Christian. In the dry east are the Muslim Harari, whose main city of Harar is considered one of the holiest cities of Islam. The grasslands to the south are home to the Oromo, who embrace various faiths, and tribal animist cultures such as the Mursi, who are famous for the giant rings they put through their lower lips. There are many more ethnic groups, but it would take a book to cover them all.

One aspect of Ethiopian culture many people in the West have discovered is the food. There’s Ethiopian coffee, of course. Coffee was discovered coffee here and the Ethiopians have a pleasant ceremony to celebrate drinking it with friends. There’s also distinct cuisine that’s beginning to catch on in the West. A spongy, slightly sour bread called injera provided a base for a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. There’s lots for vegetarians to eat in Ethiopia, plus Wednesdays and Fridays are traditional fasting days when most restaurants and private homes won’t serve meat. Ethiopian restaurants have become popular in the U.S. and U.K. and provide a good introduction to the cuisine. If you’re in London, try Merkato Restaurant on 196 Caledonian Road. The best I’ve had in England!

If nature is more your style then try the wild and rugged Semien Mountains, another World Heritage Site, that offers unspoiled trekking where you can see rare species found only in Ethiopia, such as the Ethiopian wolf and Gelada baboon. You might also want to dare the Danakil Depression in the extreme northeast. An inhospitable desert 100 meters below sea level, it’s seen a record high of 64.4°C (148.0°F) and regularly gets up to 48 °C (118 °F).

Get there

A number of airlines fly to Bole International Airport in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa. Since it isn’t a hugely popular destination prices aren’t very competitive but they aren’t outrageous if you shop around. I got a flight on Egyptair from Madrid via Cairo to Addis Ababa for only 550 euros ($830). Few flights from Europe are direct; most stop in the Gulf or North Africa. One odd thing is that many flights land in the wee hours of the morning. I’m getting in at 4am, so I guess I’ll just change some money at the 24-hour bank, hope one of the airport cafes is open, and wait until sunrise.

I’ll be there from February 9-March 27. It’s been a lifelong dream of mine to see Ethiopia. I’ve been studying the history for years and talking to every expat I can find. Now I’m finally going there! Expect to see lots more about this fascinating country on Gadling.

Crazy roads from around the world

Lets face it! We all love a good road trip now and again. Who hasn’t enjoyed hopping in the car with some friends to hit the open road? And when that road is unique and interesting, it makes the journey all the more fun. To helps us find more of those roads Popular Mechanics has put together a list of their selections for the 18 strangest roadways from around the world.

As you can imagine, the list, which includes photographs of each of the routes, has some crazy roads, often located in exotic locations. Take for example, the Hana Highway on Maui, Hawaii. This road made the list thanks to the stunningly beautiful views of rocky cliffs on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. But what really sets it apart is the 600 curves and 54 bridges, spread out over just 52 miles of pavement.

If you prefer the mountains to the ocean and you’re looking for something more remote for your next road trip, then consider the Karakoram Highway, which runs for 800 miles between Pakistan and China. This road winds through the Karakoram and Himalaya mountain ranges, and reaches altitudes in excess of 15,390 feet. Altitude sickness can be a legitimate concern for drivers making this drive.

A number of countries are represented on this list, including Italy, Iceland, China, Argentina, Norway, and more. Some of these streets are marvels of modern engineering, while others are primitive and basic. But they all have one thing in common, they are unique and interesting in their own way, and each of them will give you a road trip to remember.

Classic Treks: Ausangate Circuit, Peru

Peru is an amazing destination for backpackers and trekkers, offering a great mix of culture, ancient history, and breathtaking scenery. The Andes mountains serve as a dramatic backdrop for some of the best hiking anywhere in the world, and although the Inca Trail is probably the best known hike in all of South America, there are other Peruvian treks that are more challenging, longer, and equally rewarding.

Take the Ausangate Circuit for instance, so named for the 20,905 foot tall mountain that dominates the region through which this trek passes. This hike requires roughly five days to complete, covering about 45 miles, most of it at high altitude in a remote area that remains sacred to the local Quechua people who inhabit the area. The trek is well known for stunning views and lots of solitude, as while most backpackers are busy with the crowded Inca Trail, this route remains quietly off the radar for most visitors to Peru.

Unlike the Inca Trail however, the Ausangate Circuit is free from any kind of infrastructure, which means you’ll find no established campsites, no park rangers roaming the trail, and certainly no toilets. This is remote trekking at its finest, without a support structure in place to hinder your exploration or bail you out when you get into trouble. In fact, those adventurous travelers who tackle the Circuit are completely on their own, without any kind of rescue service in place.Located near the mountain town of Cusco, the gateway to the Peruvian Andes, the Ausangate Circuit is a challenging trek meant for experienced backpackers only. The trail is designed for those who are comfortable hiking independently and self sufficiently, and is not recommended for beginners. In addition to the complications that altitude can introduce, the weather is often unpredictable, with snow a possibility year round. Big storms offer the potential to leave hikers confined to their tent for a day or two, and supplies are difficult to come by, with just a few small mountain villages along the route.

Those that do brave the trek however, are treated to some of the best views in the Andes, with the trail taking them well above 16,900 feet. The snow capped peaks will continually give hikers something to gawk at, while massive glaciers dominate the landscape, spilling into tranquil mountain lakes and feeding icy-blue streams. Wide open mountain meadows are filled with herds of alpacas and llamas, with local villagers, dressed in colorful garb, looking on. Best of all, natural hot springs at the beginning and end of the trek, allow backpackers to sooth their tired legs and feet.

For a trek unlike any other, with a high level of challenge, but an equally high level of reward, consider the Ausangate Circuit. It is an inexpensive, little known hike, along remote mountain passes that offer plenty of solitude and views that will remain with you for a lifetime. This amazing trek is just one more reason why Peru remains one of the top adventure travel destinations of all time.

Amazing timelapse movies of the Alps

The Alps are one of the most beautiful and iconic mountain ranges on the planet. Stretching across the continent from France to Austria, and sweeping through Italy, Switzerland, and Germany in the process. The Alps gave rise to a culture of mountaineering that would eventually spread across the globe and spur the exploration of mountains in every corner of the planet, led by a host of European mountaineers who cut their teeth on peaks like Mount Blanc and The Eiger.

The very essence of those mountains has been captured very well in a series of timelapse videos by photographer Michael Rissi who shot them in the Swiss Alps this past summer and fall. The images are stunning and will inspire you to want to go there yourself, and the music by Beethoven, is a perfect accompaniment. Enjoy!

[via Boing Boing]

Timelapse movie: The Alps — part I from Michael Rissi on Vimeo.