Explore the Arctic with Hurtigruten Tours

Spitsbergen is the “last stop before the North Pole,” a cold, remote landscape of snow, ice, and arctic wildlife. And you can explore it with Hurtigruten, an adventure tour company.

While some of their longer tours may be prohibitively expensive for a lot of travelers (9-day tours cost around $5000 per person). they do offer a much more affordable 6-day Polar Encounters cruise starting at just over $1300 per person, plus airfare.

Passengers on the cruise will go ashore twice per day with an experienced guide, looking for glaciers, fjords, seals, whales, walruses, and polar bears. Stops include the towns of Longyearbyen, Barentsburg and Ny-Alesund, which vary in size for two thousand to less than two dozen residents.

Hurtigruten also offers cruises around Norway, Greenland, Antartica, the Baltics, and Western Europe.

[via Camels and Chocolate]

The “girly-girl’s” guide to packing for adventure travel

I’ll admit it. I’m what you would call a “girly-girl”. I like to dress up, I’m most comfortable in heels, and, ironically, I don’t feel quite myself when I’m not wearing at least a little makeup (and yes, I am fully aware of how ridiculous that is). Despite my disdain for getting wet, sweaty, stinky or dirty, I love taking part in adventure activities when I travel. I like to do things like hike, ride horses and zipline. I just like to look good (though I’ll usually settle for “not gross”) while I do them.

Aside from the obvious vanity issues, this wouldn’t be a huge problem, except that I stubbornly refuse to pack more than a carry-on for any trip, and so bulky adventure gear gets left behind to make room for yet another pair of cute high heels. This means I’ve ended up exploring a cave in Iceland in skinny jeans, knee-high boots and a wool trench coat, and have hiked in the humid Costa Rican rainforest during the muddy rainy season in jeans and running shoes with no traction. But I’ve finally figured out how I can bring both the clothes that make me feel good, and the ones that I need to survive as an active traveler. I’ve learned what I absolutely have to bring to enjoy myself on adventures, and how to fit it in my limited space along with my stylish clothes. If you’re a “girly-girl” like me but still want to get active with the boys, here’s what you need to know.

Shoes
For almost any outdoor activity, you’re going to need some kind of boots. Sure, you can hike short, easy trails in tennis shoes. And technically you can ride horses in your stylish city boots. But for comfort and safety, you really need appropriate footwear -. you really don’t want to find yourself in the snow covered Andes wearing just a pair of suede ballet flats. To save room in your luggage, look for a pair of boots or shoes that can do double duty and can be worn in the city or while out having adventures.

For less strenuous hikes, you can get away with a pair of “trail running shoes”. These can be as stylish as many pairs of running shoes, but the traction is much better. If you’ll be exploring warmer climates or a tropical area, limit yourself to this pair of shoes and one or two more, one pair of flip flops and one pair of dressier sandals for nights out. If you’ll be in cooler climes, bring these to wear for activities and during the day and bring one pair of boots. Choose a pair that is flat and comfortable, but that can also be dressed up with a skirt and tights for evenings. Merrells are an excellent brand to check out. Their shoes and boots are notoriously comfortable, but attractive enough to wear around any city.

Always wear the heaver pair of boots or shoes on the plane, freeing up more space in your bag.
A Large Plastic Bag
If you’re like me, you probably travel with some of your favorite outfits. Depending on the activities you have planned for your trip, there’s a good chance you’ll end up with a pile of dirty, stinky clothes to bring home with you. You really don’t want to throw all those clothes in one bag. Separate any heavily soiled clothes from the rest of your belongings and put them in a sealed plastic bag before packing them for the trip home. This will keep your other clothes clean and keep the inside of your suitcase from smelling like dirty socks.
Pack your Oldest T-Shirts
Better yet, don’t even bother to bring back the clothes you wear out mountain climbing or trekking. Pack older t-shirts and tank tops that are at the end of their lifespan and you can donate them at your destination. Your bag won’t get stinky, you won’t have to worry about doing laundry when you return, and best of all, you’ll have more room in your bag, which you can fill with clothes bought while shopping on your trip.
A Quick-Drying Towel
A small travel-sized quick-drying towel will be a life-saver if you plan on traveling to wet or humid places. You can always snag a hotel towel if you’ve got plans for an activity like to hiking to a waterfall, swimming and then hiking back, but then you’re left to carry around a heavy, sopping wet towel that will soak everything else in your bag. Use your lightweight towel to clean off and it’ll be dry in no time, making for a light pack on your return hike.
A Light, Water-Proof Windbreaker
Hiking across Icelandic lava fields in the rain in a wool trench coat is no fun. Take it from one who knows. No matter how warm your city coat is, once it’s soggy it’ll be of little help. For cold destinations, layer a waterproof windbreaker over a fleece or a wool sweater to stay warm and dry. For tropical climates, just wear the windbreaker over your t-shirt. Though the temps may not call for a jacket, you’ll be glad to have some protection from the rain if you get stuck in a rainforest downpour. When you aren’t wearing the windbreaker, it’s light and thin enough to roll up and pack in your bag without taking up too much room.
“Performance” Pants
Yes, I did recently walk into an REI and tell the salesman I needed “performance pants” because I didn’t know any better term. Luckily, he knew exactly what I meant. Basically, you want a pair of lightweight, water-resistant, quick drying pants (synthetic, not cotton). Unless you’re going to be in extremely cold climates (in which case, there are pants for that too), one pair will cover you for all occasions.
The length will protect you from bugs and scratches, but you’ll stay cool and dry thanks to the fabric’s quick-drying and water-repelling properties. Get a pair with a little extra room and some stretch to them, and if you do venture to slightly cooler climates, you can layer a pair of long underwear underneath.
Hair Accessories and Makeup
This is purely about vanity. As much as I hate to admit it, I am not one of those women who truly doesn’t care about her appearance, who can get messy and sweaty and not mind (and of course, somehow always looks good). When I start to look gross, I start to feel gross. My hair gets frizzy in high humidity, or hangs lifeless and limp after getting soaked in the rain. So when I know I’m going to be out in the elements, I’ll generally tie my hair back or wear a headband, scarf or hat to keep it under control. I don’t bring a blow dryer or any hair products so this supply of hair accessories is key.
As for makeup, while I do insist on wearing it when I go out for less physical adventures like sightseeing or shopping, I don’t bother putting any on while getting active. I know it’s just going to run down my face when I start sweating anyways. To save room in my bag though, I only bring the bare minimum. You should be able to get by with foundation (get one with SPF lotion in it to save room), powder, blush, mascara, a pencil that doubles does double duty on brows and eyes, and a single lip gloss. All of this should fit in one TSA-approved plastic bag, along with your travel shampoo and toothpaste.
Even with these supplies, you’ll have room in an average-size carry-on for enough outfits to last up to two weeks if you pack smart. Bring items that mix and match, can be dressed up or down, and can be layered for varying temps. You really don’t need to fill your bag with heavy outdoor apparel for every season. But bringing these basics along with your favorite fashionable duds will allow you to feel so good about your appearance that you can totally forget about your looks and concentrate on enjoying your adventure. And that’s the whole point.

Get the smallest rooms – Cruise trip tip

Having been on a number of cruises I can testify you will want to spend almost no time in your room, regardless of size. Therefore, my advice is to get the smallest room you can, because you know it will only be 2% smaller than the larger rooms that cost a whole bunch more money.

Then, with all your extra money, you can:

  • charter a private helicopter to walk on a real glacier;
  • dive through the rain forest on a zip line; or
  • see real Mayan ruins.

In other words, have the adventure of a life time!

Bowermaster’s Adventures — Sea Shepherd Conservation in the Galapagos

While Sea Shepherd‘s chief cheerleader and trouble-inspirer Paul Watson is holding forth from his ship, The Farley Mowat, continuing its chase of Japanese whale hunters off Antarctica and (recently) being arrested on a thirty-year-old warrant in Portugal (where he had gone to attend a meeting of the International Whaling Commission) … the Washington state-based environmental group’s second-most visible campaign is ongoing in the Galapagos.

From a very prominent, second-story office just across from the main fishing dock on Santa Cruz, Alex Cornellisen manages the Shepherd’s Galapagos operation. At the moment, it is a two-person band. His focus is on trying to keep a global audience alerted to issues of over fishing and illegal fishing. To that end the group has already donated a boat to the park rangers, to help them enforce the marine reserves rules and regulations. A veteran of Shepherd’s Antarctica campaigns, Cornellisen is happy to be in the slightly less-amped environment of Galapagos. That said, his predecessor was chased out of the country when the shark fin “mafia” put a hit out on him.

Bowermaster’s Galapagos — Chapter VI from gadling on Vimeo.

“In Ecuador you can get someone killed for $40,” says Cornellisen, standing on the balcony of his office, looking down at the main dock where small fishing boats are unloading legal catches. “So you have to take threats seriously here.” His primary concern about the Galapagos is that while there are plenty of rules against illegal fishing, enforcement is difficult.

“Last year we were responsible for several raids which resulted in the confiscation of about ninety thousand sea cucumbers, and about thirty thousand shark fins. But there is an enormous amount of illegal fishing that still continues. For example, the legal quota for sea cucumbers last year was about two million allowed to be taken out of the park. Only about 1.2 million were reported, yet there was an increase in illegally caught and confiscated sea cucumbers. What was not being reported just ended up being sold in the illegal markets.

“It’s not just a few Galapaganians doing the illegal fishing. There’s a big group from the north, from Costa Rica, that comes here to take shark fins. They catch them within the park’s marine reserve and then take them out of the supposedly protected waters where they are sold mostly to Asian countries, like Korea, Taiwan and Japan.

“All this shark finning has an impact on tourism, not just the fish population. If there are fewer sharks to observe, there will one day be fewer tourists coming to see them. Without sharks the whole ecosystem will crumble and then the question is will tourists continue to come to the Galapagos?

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“Enforcement in the Galapagos is not as efficient as Sea Sheperd would like to see. Plus, there’s a lot of corruption in the local Navy. Sometimes the Navy will alert illegal fishermen that the park officials are in the area. I’ve been coming to the Galapagos ever since I first joined Sea Sheperd in 2002 and every time I come, for a month or so, we catch poachers. So it is possible. They are absolutely out there and we know how to find them and pass the information on to the park. But the Navy often warns off the poachers so that by the time the park rangers arrive … they are gone.

“Unfortunately we don’t have any jurisdiction to apprehend the poachers, so all we can do is notify the park and start pulling in the long lines, which is mostly what they use to fish for sharks.

“I think it would certainly help if the park rangers were armed. If you go to a supermarket in Quito you see a security guard with a gun protecting bags of potatoes. Here we have this beautiful pristine ecosystem called the Galapagos Islands, and the park rangers have absolutely no jurisdiction whatsoever, they are not even allowed to carry batons. I think that the park rangers should definitely be armed. I think if the word got out to the illegal fishermen that the park rangers were armed and capable of making arrests, I think it would be a lot harder for poachers to come in here and take sharks or any other species.”

Australia’s Macquarie Island

Have you ever had an obese, wild baby elephant seal drop its head in your lap and slobber nose love all over you? It melts a heart faster than a Snickers in a microwave, really.

Macquarie Island (pronounced mak-worry) is Australia’s southernmost point, a tiny spit of an island some 940 miles (1,500 km) southeast of Tasmania. For you mariners out there that’s a three-day sail from Hobart-past the roaring 40s and into the furious 50s. The island is only about twenty miles long and two miles across-a lonely scrap of sub-antarctic landscape consisting of pointed grassy slopes and rocky beaches where mist lingers all the day long.

Discovered in 1810 by wayward sealers, Macquarie was kept a secret in order that they get rich quick from the magnificent seal colonies living on the island. In 1811, the first ship to arrive in Sydney from Macquarie carried almost 57,000 seal skins. Today, the descendants of these piles of skins still tumble along the salt and pepper sand, bellowing out the unique throaty growl of the adult elephant seal. It’s quite a sight. Forget all your images of Australia’s man-eating crocodiles and creepy snakes and spiders. Here is a different kind of nature reserve where the local attraction grows to 20 feet long, weighs more than three tons, and spends most of the day sleeping on the beach.Macquarie is not your typical vacation destination–there is no permanent human population and there are no hotels or restaurants (though the chef at the Australian meteorological station bakes terrific scones). Also, it rains pretty much constantly and on most days, the wind blows hard enough to knock you down.

What Macquarie does have is wildlife and a lot of it. Thanks to extreme isolation, very little human contact and strict conservation rules, the animals on Macquarie harbor no fear of humans whatsoever. While guidelines instruct keeping at least 30 feet from any wild animal, the sheer abundance of living breathing cute cuddly things makes it impossible. You try hard not to touch or interfere, but if they come to you, then just let them. Sit down on the beach and the baby elephant seals will flop their way towards you, sniff you out, then curl up beside you begging to spoon. Likewise, brown fluffy balls of baby penguins come teetering up to check you out, then start screeching for mom and dad. The cuteness factor trumps a million sneezing panda vids.

Four kinds of penguin live on Macquarie. The largest and most vivid are the elegant King penguins who are the slightly smaller cousins to the iconic Emperor penguins (the ones you and your kids know and love from Happy Feet). As a self-certified, card-carrying member of the penguin craze, I went berserk on watching all the action that goes on in Macquarie’s penguin colony. Even more amusing were the royal penguins, who waddle to and from shore shaking their bushy yellow eyebrows. The species is only found on this island and number well over a million pairs.

We later traveled to Lusitania Bay, Australia’s largest protected penguin rookery. From out of the white fog, the shore appeared like a dream sequence. At first I saw nothing except a buzzing black and white screen beyond the mist. Suddenly our little boat lurched forward and the beach came into focus: not hundreds, not thousands, but a hundred thousand or more penguins. An unreal sight and an unreal sound, that of an infinite chorus of nasally seabirds calling out in almost-unison. Penguins were diving and swimming all around us as well, bulleting through the golden ripples of waves. I’ve never felt so outnumbered in my life.

In the distance, a pair of old-fashioned rusty steam cookers sat on the beach as an eerie reminder of the island’s exploitative past. Once upon a time, men gathered up penguins and threw them in the pot to boil up some penguin oil, used to make rope and twine back in the day. The penguins triumphed, thank goodness, and today the island is a vital breeding spot.

I sailed to Macquarie on the MV Orion, an Australian expedition ship which–in the spirit of Gadling’s motto, goes there–or in other words, goes to the places where few ships ever go. (If you’re going to travel to one of the least habitable islands in the world, it helps to be traveling on one of the world’s most habitable ships.) As tourist interest broadens, the government still limits visits to under twelve ships a year. Extraordinary bird life attracts all the gung ho bird nuts out there, while map nuts like me are eager to get to such a remote place and see what we can see.

I feel immensely lucky to have traveled to this forgotten map crumb of Australia. I loved the penguins and friendly elephant seals and the giant killer whales swimming in the shallows. The brown-green kelp and chunks of ice on the beach added an extra twinge of exoticism, however it was the island itself that attracted me-a rare and lonely place at the bottom of the world that few know and even fewer ever visit.%Gallery-79934%