Inca Trail sold out? Take an alternative tour with Zephyr Adventures

Peru’s Inca Trail is, without a doubt, one of the most popular treks in the world. The four day hike takes adventure travelers on a wonderfully scenic walk through the Andes, along a route that was once used by the Inca themselves, culminating with a sunrise arrival at the mountaintop fortress of Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail tour is so popular in fact, that the Peruvian government had to start issuing permits a few years back in order to limit the number of people on the trail at any given time. Those permits are nearly impossible to come by at the moment, thanks in no small part to the fact that the trail was closed for much of the early part of the year, leading to pent up demand.

Fortunately, there are alternatives to the classic route, such as the Royal Inca Trail Trek offered by Zephyr Adventures, a small travel company based out of Montana that has been offering tours to adventure travelers since 1997. Part of the appeal of this trek, besides the fact that it doesn’t have the same permit issues as the classic Inca Trail, is that it is also much less physically demanding. The Royal Inca Trail follows the Urubamba River along a different route to Machu Picchu, which helps hikers to avoid some of the more demanding climbs and other issues that come along with altitude. This route is also seldom hiked by anyone other than Zephyr’s groups, which means the trail is mostly empty, and generally shared with just the local Quechua Indians who inhabit the area.

Zephyr offers this adventure as one of their pre-arranged group treks several times a year, but it can also be booked as a private trek as well. If you go with that option, you’ll be able to pick dates that best work for you, although you’ll need at least one other person to join you. Should you choose to make a private trek, there are two intineraries available. Zephyr’s Airport-to-Airport option, will have the guides greeting you upon your arrival and you’ll spend nine days completely in their care. But should you go with the Ala Carte Trek, you’ll be on your own getting to and from Cusco, and spend only five days just doing the trek itself.

All in all, this looks like a great alternative to the regular Inca Trail, which can be quite daunting for many travelers. It is physically demanding, adds the sometimes unpleasant element of high altitude, and is very crowded during the high season. All issues you won’t have to deal with on the Royal Inca Trail.

Khat: the legal high of East Africa

East Africa is addicted to leaves.

Khat (also pronounced “chat” or “qat”) is a leafy shrub found in the mountainous areas of East Africa. It’s a major cash crop for Ethiopia and a popular high in the whole region. For the Somalis, as well as the Hararis in Ethiopia, it’s a social drug and a way to relax. It’s also popular in countries further afield such as Yemen. In a Muslim society, khat offers a high not specifically banned by the Koran.

The fresh young leaves and shoots of the Catha edulis plant contain cathinone and cathine, both of which have chemical similarities to amphetamines. Cathinone is stronger than cathine and only found in the younger shoots, while older leaves, or those been picked more than a couple of days before, only contain cathine. Thus users prefer to eat the softer leaves from the top of the plant and distributors have a rapid, efficient network to get fresh khat from field to market.

Like most drugs, the effect differs for different people, but most users feel a sense of physical relaxation and mental activity. This is unusual since most drugs make the mind and body go in the same direction. Alcohol relaxes the body and dulls the mind, while coca leaves or cocaine stimulate both.

%Gallery-93278%Most people in the region see khat as harmless. People can sit for a couple of hours eating the leaves and socializing, and then go off to their job and be productive. Common side effects such as lack of appetite and sleep loss are actually seen as good things.

In Harar people go to the market at around noon to buy a bundle of khat. Then they head to a friend’s house to sit and chew. Some houses are known as khat houses and a large circle of friends and guests meets there every day. People get into long involved conversations, while others lay down and chill out. Others sit in a corner diligently working. The effect depends on a person’s inclination and mood. Some people stay for only an hour or so, and some won’t leave until evening. Many people lose a sense of time, or at least stop caring. The culture around khat is very tolerant of how individual people want to interact while using the drug. Sometime in the midafternoon a poorer resident of the neighborhood will come and take away the discarded older leaves for his own use.

The usual way to eat khat is to simply chew and swallow the leaves, but some people like to grind it up with a mortar and pestle and eat the paste. This has a quicker, stronger effect, and a bit of added sugar gets rid of khat’s bitter taste.

Both men and women use khat, but men use more and the sexes tend to chew separately. This doesn’t stop the woman of the house from sitting in on a khat chewing session, but she’s more likely to smoke a sheesha (water pipe) filled with tobacco, rather than chew khat.

While khat used to be restricted to Hararis and Somalis, other people in the region are now experimenting with it. A university student from Addis Ababa told me some of her classmates use it to stay up all night studying for exams. They keep it secret from their parents, though, as older people in western and northern Ethiopia have a dim view of khat chewing.

There seem to be more users in Somaliland. Besides private homes, people like to gather in one of the ubiquitous little khat cafes. The plant is sold everywhere and consumption appears to be much higher than in Harar. While men and women chew separately, many khat cafes are run by women, some of whom smear their faces with khat paste as a kind of advertisement.

It’s hard to tell if khat is as harmful to Somaliland as alcohol is to the West, but it’s certainly an economic drain. Khat only grows in relatively moist uplands, so all the khat consumed in the dry, lowland Somali region has to be imported from Ethiopia. Good news for Ethiopian farmers, bad news for Somalis. One NGO worker told me the entire Somali region (Somaliland, Puntland, Somalia, Djibouti, and the Ogaden region of Ethiopia) spends $100 million a month on khat. While that sounds like a lot, most men and many women chew it regularly (often daily), and one day’s supply costs at least $2, and there are about 15 million Somalis in East Africa, so that staggering figure could be correct.

The Somalis have done the math too, and this is one of the main objections some have to the plant. They say the money could be used for things like infrastructure and education. They also say khat encourages idleness in a region that needs every worker working hard.

“This plant is pulling down my country,” one Hargeisa shopkeeper complained to me.

Some people don’t react well to khat, getting irritable or zoned out, and heavy users complain of tension, stomach upset, and headaches if they don’t get their leaves. Plus there’s the question of long-term effects. Many Somalis told me they knew older users who had suffered mental damage. I myself met some long-term users who seemed a bit vague even when they weren’t chewing, and the number of older men wandering the streets of Hargeisa babbling incoherently was noticeably greater than in Addis Ababa or even Harar. Plus the addiction makes people focus on getting the plant rather than on more important things. One Somalilander told me that during the worst part of the Somali civil war no airplane was able to land at Mogadishu airport, except one.

That was the khat plane from Ethiopia. All the warring clans agreed to a brief ceasefire when that was flying in.

For those wanting to learn more, Erowid is a good basic source, and the new Khat Research Program at the University of Minnesota plans to produce some definitive studies.

Don’t miss the rest of my series on travel in Somaliland.

Next time: Bumbling in Berbera, a khat comedy of errors!

National Geographic announces 2010 class of Emerging Explorers

National Geographic has announced the latest class of their Emerging Explorers, an annual award handed out to young men and women who have been especially exemplary in their field of study while still early in their careers. Recipients are generally from the Society’s traditional arenas, such as anthropology, archaeology, photography, space exploration, earth sciences, and mountaineering, amongst others. The award includes $10,000 to help fund their continued research in their area of expertise.

The list of winners includes environmental scientist Saleem Ali who works as a professional mediator for companies, governments, and other organizations involve dealing with environmental conflicts. He is joined on the list of Emerging Explorers by agroecologist Jerry Glover, who is helping to create genetically engineered plants, such as wheat, rice, and maize, and turn them into perennial crops that can meet the food needs of emerging nations. Marine biologist Jose Urteaga is recognized for his work in protecting the habitats and hatcheries for several species of sea turtles, while wildlife researcher Emma Stokes gets the nod for helping create a nature preserve for lowland gorillas in the Congo.

In all, 14 scientists, explorers, and adventurers earned the distinction of being called a National Geographic Emerging Explorer for 2010. These brilliant and talented individuals come from diverse fields of study and work in all corners of the globe. They exemplify NG’s mission to inspire others to care about the planet, while working very hard to change the world in their own way.

The Emerging Explorers will be officially introduced in the June issue of National Geographic magazine, on newsstands soon, but you can read more about them now by clicking here.

Congratulations to all the winners.





Win a travel documentary scholarship to the Amazon

Gap Adventures and National Geographic are teaming up to give one aspiring filmmaker the chance of a lifetime. The two organizations are giving away a film scholarship that will allow the recipient to work with veteran film producer Trent O’Donnell, who will mentor the budding documentarian in the art of making a film, while exploring the depths of the Amazon Rainforest. And once the project is finished, the film may make its debut on the Nat. Geo Adventure Channel, an opportunity filmmakers often wait years to get.

This scholarship is open to anyone, whether you’re a film student or not, with the only requirements being that you must be at least 18 years of age, and hold a current passport. You should also have a healthy sense of adventure, a love of films, and be reasonably fit, as there will be some jungle trekking involved.

All applicants are required to make a 3-minute video, in English, based around the theme “Local Encounters”. The video should demonstrate your love of adventure, and show how your “encounter” changed your perspective on the world. A panel of judges will review the entries, looking for originality, the ability to tell an engaging story, and a passion for filmmaking. Once your film is complete, upload it to YouTube and head over to WorldNomads.com to fill out the scholarship application. From there, you’ll complete the process by embedding your film and telling the judges about it in 200 words or less. The deadline for entry is August 1st.

The winner won’t just get the opportunity to make a film with Trent O’Donnell. They’ll also receive a flight to Quito, Ecuador sometime in the last two weeks of September, where they’ll have the chance to explore the Amazon with O’Donnell and Bruce Poon Tip, the founder of Gap Adventures. They’ll actually stay in the rainforest with the local Quichua tribes, learning about their way of life, and creating a film on sustainable tourism.

To find out more about this great opportunity, click here. Then go blow the dust off your video camera and get filming. Who knows, you might be on your way to the Amazon in just a few short months.

It’s summit day on Everest!

Over the past week or so, climbers on the South Side of Mt. Everest have been working their way into position to take advantage of a possible weather window which would give commercial teams the first shot at the summit this year. For most of that week, high winds, sometimes in excess of 100 mph, have buffeted the upper slopes of the mountain, and there were conflicting reports as to whether or not those winds would die down. But yesterday, the skies cleared, the winds dissipated, and the window opened, giving way to the first major summit push of the season.

For the climbers, this will be the final leg of a two month long journey to the summit, a journey that begins with a ten-day trek to base camp itself. The weeks that follow are spent acclimatizing on the mountain. As the teams go higher up the face, they establish camps and stash their gear and supplies for later. But they are also training their bodies to work at high altitude, while slowly getting ready for the opportunity to stand on the summit, the highest point on Earth.

This weather window is expected to be a short one, and close fairly rapidly, but the climbers who moved up the mountain hoping for this opportunity have been rewarded, and it seems that they’ll have plenty of time to reach the top, and get back down safely. Other large commercial teams elected to pass on this attempt, looking ahead to another potential window forecast for early next week. That window should be longer and safer for their clients.

Meanwhile, on the North Side of the mountain, which falls in Tibet, the climbers have had to be much more patient. Bad weather had prevented the necessary fixed lines from being put into place until this weekend, when a large Chinese team completed that work. With the ropes in place, the way to the summit is now open, and climbers, such as 13-year old Jordan Romero, will soon be making their attempts as well.

The summit of Everest is not the finish line for these men and women. Getting back down the mountain is quite dangerous as well. For most of them, this is not just the culmination of two months of hard work, but also years of training and preparation as well. Perhaps even more importantly, it is the achievement of a dream