Coming attractions: Ethiopia

by Sean McLachlan on

There aren’t many countries that can truly call themselves unique. France has great cuisine, but so does Italy. India has challenging and beautiful mountaineering routes, and so does Peru.

But Ethiopia really is unique. It’s the only African country that was never colonized, and as far as paleontologists can tell, it’s where the human race evolved from our earlier ancestors.

Ethiopia’s Great Rift Valley is a treasure trove of fossils that have revealed our origins from something not quite human and not quite ape, and our slow evolution into something more recognizable. These fossils, including the famous Lucy, are on show at the National Museum in Addis Ababa. The great lesson evolution has to teach us is that we’re all related. Ethiopia is everyone’s hometown.

Ethiopia’s great history didn’t end with simply giving birth to the human race. It was home to a series of important civilizations that left a rich cultural legacy. The country boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the eleven churches of Lalibela cut out of solid rock. The one pictured here is called Bete Medhane Alem (“Savior of the World”) and is believed to be the largest rock-hewn church anywhere. Another entry to the list is the ancient capital of Aksum with its towering monoliths. Aksum’s rulers controlled one of the ancient world’s great empires for a thousand years from about 50 BC until 950 AD.

Ethiopians are proud of their history and near Aksum is the battlefield of Adowa, where in 1896 an Italian army determined to colonize the country was gobbled up by a well-armed and disciplined Ethiopian force in one of the biggest defeats of a colonial force by a native army in history. The Italians returned in 1935 under Mussolini, this time with tanks and poison gas, and took over for a few brutal years, but they never really controlled the country and got promptly ejected during World War Two.This is a large nation, almost twice the size of France, with several different cultural and ethnic groups and a mix of Christian, Muslim, and animist beliefs. The population of 79 million speaks 83 languages and more than 200 dialects. In the rugged highlands of the north are the Amhara and Tigrayana, who are mostly Christian. In the dry east are the Muslim Harari, whose main city of Harar is considered one of the holiest cities of Islam. The grasslands to the south are home to the Oromo, who embrace various faiths, and tribal animist cultures such as the Mursi, who are famous for the giant rings they put through their lower lips. There are many more ethnic groups, but it would take a book to cover them all.

One aspect of Ethiopian culture many people in the West have discovered is the food. There’s Ethiopian coffee, of course. Coffee was discovered coffee here and the Ethiopians have a pleasant ceremony to celebrate drinking it with friends. There’s also distinct cuisine that’s beginning to catch on in the West. A spongy, slightly sour bread called injera provided a base for a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. There’s lots for vegetarians to eat in Ethiopia, plus Wednesdays and Fridays are traditional fasting days when most restaurants and private homes won’t serve meat. Ethiopian restaurants have become popular in the U.S. and U.K. and provide a good introduction to the cuisine. If you’re in London, try Merkato Restaurant on 196 Caledonian Road. The best I’ve had in England!

If nature is more your style then try the wild and rugged Semien Mountains, another World Heritage Site, that offers unspoiled trekking where you can see rare species found only in Ethiopia, such as the Ethiopian wolf and Gelada baboon. You might also want to dare the Danakil Depression in the extreme northeast. An inhospitable desert 100 meters below sea level, it’s seen a record high of 64.4°C (148.0°F) and regularly gets up to 48 °C (118 °F).

Get there

A number of airlines fly to Bole International Airport in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa. Since it isn’t a hugely popular destination prices aren’t very competitive but they aren’t outrageous if you shop around. I got a flight on Egyptair from Madrid via Cairo to Addis Ababa for only 550 euros ($830). Few flights from Europe are direct; most stop in the Gulf or North Africa. One odd thing is that many flights land in the wee hours of the morning. I’m getting in at 4am, so I guess I’ll just change some money at the 24-hour bank, hope one of the airport cafes is open, and wait until sunrise.

I’ll be there from February 9-March 27. It’s been a lifelong dream of mine to see Ethiopia. I’ve been studying the history for years and talking to every expat I can find. Now I’m finally going there! Expect to see lots more about this fascinating country on Gadling.

Classic Treks: Ausangate Circuit, Peru

by Kraig Becker on

Peru is an amazing destination for backpackers and trekkers, offering a great mix of culture, ancient history, and breathtaking scenery. The Andes mountains serve as a dramatic backdrop for some of the best hiking anywhere in the world, and although the Inca Trail is probably the best known hike in all of South America, there are other Peruvian treks that are more challenging, longer, and equally rewarding.

Take the Ausangate Circuit for instance, so named for the 20,905 foot tall mountain that dominates the region through which this trek passes. This hike requires roughly five days to complete, covering about 45 miles, most of it at high altitude in a remote area that remains sacred to the local Quechua people who inhabit the area. The trek is well known for stunning views and lots of solitude, as while most backpackers are busy with the crowded Inca Trail, this route remains quietly off the radar for most visitors to Peru.

Unlike the Inca Trail however, the Ausangate Circuit is free from any kind of infrastructure, which means you’ll find no established campsites, no park rangers roaming the trail, and certainly no toilets. This is remote trekking at its finest, without a support structure in place to hinder your exploration or bail you out when you get into trouble. In fact, those adventurous travelers who tackle the Circuit are completely on their own, without any kind of rescue service in place.Located near the mountain town of Cusco, the gateway to the Peruvian Andes, the Ausangate Circuit is a challenging trek meant for experienced backpackers only. The trail is designed for those who are comfortable hiking independently and self sufficiently, and is not recommended for beginners. In addition to the complications that altitude can introduce, the weather is often unpredictable, with snow a possibility year round. Big storms offer the potential to leave hikers confined to their tent for a day or two, and supplies are difficult to come by, with just a few small mountain villages along the route.

Those that do brave the trek however, are treated to some of the best views in the Andes, with the trail taking them well above 16,900 feet. The snow capped peaks will continually give hikers something to gawk at, while massive glaciers dominate the landscape, spilling into tranquil mountain lakes and feeding icy-blue streams. Wide open mountain meadows are filled with herds of alpacas and llamas, with local villagers, dressed in colorful garb, looking on. Best of all, natural hot springs at the beginning and end of the trek, allow backpackers to sooth their tired legs and feet.

For a trek unlike any other, with a high level of challenge, but an equally high level of reward, consider the Ausangate Circuit. It is an inexpensive, little known hike, along remote mountain passes that offer plenty of solitude and views that will remain with you for a lifetime. This amazing trek is just one more reason why Peru remains one of the top adventure travel destinations of all time.

Amazing timelapse movies of the Alps

by Kraig Becker on

The Alps are one of the most beautiful and iconic mountain ranges on the planet. Stretching across the continent from France to Austria, and sweeping through Italy, Switzerland, and Germany in the process. The Alps gave rise to a culture of mountaineering that would eventually spread across the globe and spur the exploration of mountains in every corner of the planet, led by a host of European mountaineers who cut their teeth on peaks like Mount Blanc and The Eiger.

The very essence of those mountains has been captured very well in a series of timelapse videos by photographer Michael Rissi who shot them in the Swiss Alps this past summer and fall. The images are stunning and will inspire you to want to go there yourself, and the music by Beethoven, is a perfect accompaniment. Enjoy!

[via Boing Boing]

Timelapse movie: The Alps — part I from Michael Rissi on Vimeo.

New 650km trail set to open in South Africa

by Kraig Becker on

A major conservation effort is underway in South Africa, where a new trail is set to open in 2010 that will become the first truly epic, long distance, hike on the continent, stretching from the West Coat of the country to the Outeniqua Mountains, covering 650km in the process.

Known as the Rim of Africa, this new trail follows a natural route through the mountains of South Africa, and has been designed to integrate with the natural surroundings, while protecting the local plant and animal life. The hike will pass through several nature preserves that are currently seldom visited, and will wander across privately held property, giving backpackers access to areas that have seldom been seen by outsiders in years.

Based off such long distance hikes as The Appalachian Trail and the The Continental Divide Trail, the Rim of Africa will eventually take roughly 48 days to complete. The plan is to offer four distinct stages, with each stage requiring approximately 10 to 12 days. But when it opens in October of next year, it will take a more modest 11 days to hike the first section. The first three treks will run from October 4th to October 15th, October 11th to the 22nd, and finally October 18 to the 29th of 2010. These will be used as fundraising hikes to help complete construction of the trail, and you can sign up to take part in one of those inaugural treks on the trail’s official website.

It looks like adventure travelers and backpackers will soon have a new item to add to their life list. This looks like it has potential to be an amazing hike, but you have to wonder though, will there be lions and other African predators around? That would make it even more challenging!

[via Best Hike]

The Longest Climb: from the Dead Sea to the summit of Everest

by Kraig Becker on

Many adventurers are driven to go to extremes. They visit remote places and seem to revel in the challenge and suffering that goes along with those expeditions. Back in 2006, a team of climbers from the U.K. took that philosophy to new limits, when they set out on an expedition that began at the Dead Sea and ended on the summit of Everest.

The team began their adventure at 1385 feet below sea level on the shores of the Dead Sea in Jordan, where they climbed aboard their bikes and proceeded to ride all the way Everest Base Camp on the Tibetan side of the mountain. The journey took more than six months to complete, and they faced about every type of weather imaginable along the way.

Upon reaching Everest, their challenges were just beginning of course. They still had to face the tallest mountain on the planet, and all of the difficulties that that entails. In the end, they reached the summit, located at 29,029 feet, having chalked up 30,414 feet of elevation gain along the way.

To get a taste of their journey, check out the video below, as the team goes from the lowest point on Earth to the highest, completely under their own power.