Memories Of Aleppo, Syria

by Sean McLachlan on


I pulled into Aleppo, Syria, on January 10, 1994, and had a hard time caring that I was in one of the most historic cities of the Arab world. I was in the grip of a bad flu courtesy of a combination of a desert hike and an air-conditioned bus ride. I barely looked at the sleek minarets, medieval citadel and bustling markets. All I wanted was a bed, medicine and solitude.

Grumpy and harassed, I elbowed my way through the crowd of Russian prostitutes and smugglers who seemed to dominate the neighborhood around the bus station. Hotel after hotel was full. I was feeling weaker by the minute. Then I came to the Hotel Syria and was greeted by the manager Sali, a thin man with excellent English, graying hair and a ready smile. He took one look at me and tut-tutted.

“You shouldn’t be traveling in this condition. Come in and I’ll get you tea.”

“All I need is sleep,” I replied.

“Rest, I’ll bring you tea.”

I remember nothing of the room I collapsed in, or indeed anything else about the Hotel Syria. All I remember is Sali. Bringing me tea. Bringing fruit form the market. Bringing me medicine from the pharmacy without my asking.

“No, keep your money. You are a guest. Not like those Russians. They spend four days on the bus to come here and only cause trouble. I’m going to buy some disinfectant and spray them when they come through the door.”

%Gallery-168005%I was soon on the mend and out exploring Aleppo. From the citadel I could see the city spread out to all horizons, minarets pointing to the sky and chemical factories belching poison in the distance. In the evenings I’d return and sit with Sali drinking tea and recounting my day.

The best days were spent in the famous souk, once the western terminus of the Silk Road and one of the best preserved in the world. I wrote in my journal that it was “everything Westerners think of when they think of bazaars. A low roof arches over smoky stalls selling spices. Trucks and donkeys jockey for position in crowded alleys. Everything is for sale here: spices, clothing, sweets, all kinds of fruit, shoes, rope, gold jewelry, silk, dishes, pipes, toys, cigarettes, nuts, tea sets, gravestones, tiles, soap, leather, perfume, brooms, combs, juice, wedding dresses, etc. I saw no tourists.”

As I wandered down one of the little streets, two men in a tiny silk stall on a corner called out to me, “Where are you from?”

“Canada.” I replied.

One of them brought up two fingers in front of his eyes and brought them together, saying, “I crush you.” A “Kids in the Hall” reference in Syria?

I had found the famous Mohammed brothers. I’d heard about them a month ago in Turkey from other travelers. These nine brothers were the queens of the souk, flamboyantly propositioning passersby and grilling foreigners for pickup lines and dirty words that they carefully entered into a little black book.

They weren’t really gay (I think) they just found it fun. As we sat in their stall drinking tea they told me, “You nice, but no gay. Want to go to Turkish bath?”

“I think I’ll pass.”

“Too bad,” one said, then turned to the crowd to call out in English, “I love you! You nice!”

An old guy tottered past. One of the Mohammeds turned to me.

“He not nice, maybe 50 years ago.”

Back in those days no tourist made it through Aleppo without meeting these guys. They had a constantly growing photo album of their guests, including pictures of people I’d met weeks before. The whole Mohammed family owned eight shops (“we’re mafia”) and basically ran the street. That didn’t stop them from occasionally getting in trouble from Syrians who didn’t like their queer routine.

Now their shops have burned to the ground along with the rest of the souk, victims of the fighting between insurgents and soldiers of the Assad regime. The Mohammed brothers can no longer sit behind piles of silk propositioning Arabs in English and expanding their dirty vocabulary with the help of a steady stream of bemused foreign guests.

What happened to them? Are they hiding in their homes waiting for the storm to pass? Are they among the crowds of refugees fleeing to Turkey? Or did their sense of fun finally catch up with them and they fell victim to the Islamists who have joined the ranks of the insurgency? And what happened to Sali? He was old enough that he might have mercifully died before his world fell apart. If he still lives he’s in his 70s, and a war zone is pitiless on the elderly.

One of the affects of travel is that these places are no longer abstract images on the news. They’re real, with real people who are suffering real hardship. Perhaps if Sali had nursed Obama and Romney back to health, or if the two candidates had sat for a time sharing tea and dirty jokes with the Mohammed brothers, the sufferings of millions of Syrians would be a burning issue in this election.

Perhaps our leaders should get out of their political bubble and travel more.

[Photo courtesy Luigi Guarino]

Base Jumping Stunt In Norway Goes Terribly Wrong

by Jessica Festa on




Ouch! When base jumper Richard Henriksen decided to add a gymnastics element to his daring stunt, he expected everything to go smoothly. Unfortunately, Henriksen did not foresee the high bar he was performing his routine on to completely collapse, propelling him head first over a cliff.

According to news.com.au, the father of five was performing the stunt for a television program on the NRK network in Norway when the terrifying incident occurred. In the video, you can see Henriksen make one complete flip around the high bar, the crowd cheers and then everything falls apart.

Luckily, the daredevil survived the 3,937-foot fall. Narrowly missing contact with the rock face of the cliff, Henriksen managed to open his parachute on the way down.

We’re just glad he’s okay.

A Pre-Islamic Civilization In Saudi Arabia

by Sean McLachlan on


The ancient past of one of the world’s most closed countries is beginning to be revealed.

Mada’in Saleh, about 200 miles north of Medina in northwestern Saudi Arabia, is an impressive remnant of the Nabataean civilization, the same people who built Petra in Jordan 2,000 years ago. Massive tombs carved out of cliffs tower over the desert. Some are decorated with carvings or bear ancient inscriptions dedicated to the dead who lie within. Around the tombs are the ruins of a once-thriving city at a key node of an extensive trade network.

The Nabataean Kingdom stretched from its capital Petra in what is now Jordan deep into the Arabian Peninsula. It grew wealthy from trading in incense from southern Arabia to the Mediterranean. Incense was used in religious rituals and burials and was vitally important for many cultures, including the Romans. The Nabataeans had a powerful kingdom from 168 B.C. until the Roman Empire annexed it in 106 A.D.

Mada’in Saleh was near the southern edge of Nabataean territory, perfectly poised to control the trade route. Even though it’s in the middle of a desert, there are good wells at the site and the Nabataeans managed to cultivate sizable tracts of land.

The most visible remains are the 131 rock-cut tombs with carved facades of a style similar to those in Petra 300 miles to the northwest. There are less grandiose attractions too. Here and there on the sandstone outcroppings are little niches that once held statues of pagan gods. Other stones have carved designs of animals dating from before the kingdom, back to an earlier people called the Lihyanites.

%Gallery-167884%Despite being alongside one of the main pilgrimage routes for the Hajj, the ruins of Mada’in Saleh were ignored for years by Saudi authorities who had no interest in civilizations before the advent of Islam. Now that’s changing, AFP reports. Saudi Arabia is slowly opening up to tourism and the site is drawing an increasing number of tourists. Last year Mada’in Saleh attracted 40,000 visitors and site managers want to double that figure this year. Most visitors are curious Saudis, but the country’s tourism office is encouraging foreigners to visit as well.

There are two museums on the site, although neither is about the Nabataean civilization. One is about the nearby pilgrimage route and another is dedicated to the Hejaz railway opened by the Ottomans in the early 20th century.

French archaeologists are currently excavating the site so hopefully more information about this southern outpost of the Nabataean civilization will come to light.

[Photo courtesy Flickr user Sammy Six]

How To Overcome Loneliness When Traveling Solo

by Jessica Festa on

One reason many people hesitate to travel solo is a fear of loneliness. Although I am an advocate of traveling alone, I will admit sometimes this feeling can begin to seep in. Luckily, there are many ways to overcome the problem. To help you get over your feelings of solitude, use these tips when traveling on your own.

Travel Slower

Many solo backpackers tend to rush from one city to another, trying to fit in as much as possible in the time they have. Unfortunately, this tactic doesn’t give you much opportunity to meet other travelers, interact with locals and form an attachment to the city. You’ll end up constantly feeling like a confused, lonely outsider in every city you arrive in. However, if you travel slowly, you’ll be able to form relationships with the people, places and things around you. Your hotel will begin to feel like home, the barista at the nearby coffee shop will know your name, you’ll find a favorite park or cafe to hang out in and you’ll form friendships with other travelers and locals. Additionally, a slower pace makes you less likely to come down with a problematic case of travel fatigue.Spend The Night In A Hostel

If you’re not already, stay at a hostel for a few nights. Not only will you save money, you’ll be putting yourself in one of the friendliest atmospheres for travelers. In fact, it’s almost impossible not to meet others when staying at a hostel. When searching for the perfect property, make sure there are commons rooms, shared kitchens and social spaces.

Attend Or Set Up A Meetup On CouchSurfing

CouchSurfing is a great tool for when you’re feeling lonely. Simply log on, search for a group related to the city you’re in, join and check the message board to see what meetups people are hosting. If nothing interests you, you can post a message yourself asking if anyone wants to join you on a hike or to meet for dinner.

Sit Alone At A Bar

I know what you’re thinking. “But, isn’t that counterproductive?”

Sitting along at a bar is actually one of the best ways to meet other travelers, as you seem more approachable. Not to mention, once you’ve had a drink or two you’ll feel much more comfortable sparking up a conversation with a stranger. If anything, you’ll at least have the bartender to make conversation with. Furthermore, just getting out of your room and surrounding yourself with people can help to make you feel less alone.

Do An Activity You’d Rather Do Alone

Personally, there are certain things I would rather do alone, like hiking, exploring a town or going for a run. I like being able to lose myself without any distractions. Think about things you enjoy doing on your own, and spend time doing them.

Give Yourself A Mission

Immersing yourself in a goal can help keep you occupied on the task at hand and not thinking about being lonely. There are a few ways you can do this. First of all, you can research the area and plan an itinerary of sights and excursions you think are interesting. Another way to give yourself a mission is to choose a theme or focus for the city and make discoveries based on that. Find the best taco place, the most bizarre piece of art, the cheapest spa or an authentic souvenir. When I was in Denver, Colorado, I made it my mission to find the best artisanal shops in the city. It allowed me to see Denver in a new way and unearth some lesser-known but worthwhile venues.

Connect With Family And Friends

Sometimes loneliness on the road is connected to homesickness. Call your mom, Skype with your best boyfriend or girlfriend or start an email thread where your friends write messages to each other. It’ll be comforting to know there are people at home who miss you and are excited to hear about your trip.

Sign Up For A Group Tour Or Pub Crawl

This is an almost-guaranteed way to meet other people. At the very least, it will give you the sense of doing an activity with others. Group activities are great ways to meet people with similar interests who you can have interesting conversations with, as well as plan other sightseeing excursions with.

Meditate

Meditation can help you focus on the positives of your journey. Instead of dwelling on how lonely and sad you feel, you’ll be able to focus on why you’re feeling the way you are and realize it can be fixed. Once your positive thoughts begin flowing, you can think about how lucky you are to be having the experience of travel. Moreover, solo travel often leads to a positive internal change, and meditating can help you uncover this.

Go For A Run

Whenever you’re feeling sad, you should exercise. It’s the best natural drug for curing negative feelings, because it releases endorphins. Also, it can help you clear your head, feel good about your health and appreciate the quality time you get to spend with yourself.

Get Inspired By Other Solo Travelers

When you’re feeling down about traveling alone, look at some solo travel blogs and videos and remind yourself of all the great experiences you can have. Doing this will remind you you’re not the first person to travel alone, and while some days may be a bit tougher than others, you shouldn’t let negative feelings ruin the life-enriching opportunity you’ve made for yourself.

Put Away The Technology

Hiding behind a computer screen or standing in the corner texting will make you feel like an outsider. Instead of immersing yourself in technology and complaining about how alone you feel, put your gadgets away and immerse yourself in local culture. You’re going to want the memories of your trip to be about connecting with people and places, not computers and cellphones.

Remember The Benefits Of Solo Travel

If you’re feeling blue about being on your own, grab a pen and write down the benefits of solo travel. Getting to make your own itinerary, learning more about yourself, being more open to meeting new people and having an internal journey are just a few of the perks. You should also make a list of the reasons you enjoy spending time with yourself, and what you’ve learned about yourself so far on the solo journey.

[Images via Shutterstock]

The Death Of A Good Travel Companion

by Sean McLachlan on

This week I learned the sad news that a friend and coworker in Harar, Ethiopia, had died. Mohammed Jami Guleid helped me out countless times while I explored the Horn of Africa. If you enjoyed my series on Somaliland or Harar, you have him to thank.

I first met “Dake,” as everyone called him, on my first visit to Harar in eastern Ethiopia as I was searching for a way to get to Somaliland, the breakaway northern region of Somalia. Everyone told me to meet with Dake. He was a Somali who had made Harar his home and had many contacts on both sides of the border. Within days I was riding through the desert with a couple of his relatives on my way to Somaliland. It was one of the best adventures of my life.

From that point our working relationship grew. Dake was an expert on Somali and Harari culture. He even wrote a book titled “Harar: A Cultural Guide.” My signed edition sits next to me as I write.

We meet lots of people on our travels. Most of them soon fade into the past, remembered only in old photographs and journal entries. Others last through a few emails and postcards before they, too, become memories. Only a few become lasting friends.

That was easy with Dake. He had an open, relaxed manner and was always quick with a joke. His deep interest in Harar’s history and architecture was infectious. Once he woke me up at five in the morning so we could photograph the town’s winding medieval alleys as the sun rose. I didn’t mind, even when his insistence on getting “one more shot” kept me from my morning coffee for far longer than I liked.Here he is in the narrowest of Harar’s alleys, called Megera Wa Wiger Uga, “The Street of Peace and Quarrel.” In local tradition you have to speak to anyone you pass here, even if you’re angry with them and aren’t otherwise talking with them. Since it connects two busy areas, a lot of people pass through this alley and a lot of arguments get resolved.

Dake had been an outsider to Harar once himself, so he sympathized with my efforts to adjust to the local culture. He was always ready to help out with advice at a moment’s notice and saved me from more than one cultural blunder. Having an insider who knows what it’s like to be an outsider is invaluable when studying a new place.

We also explored Ethiopia’s Somali region. Dake had big hopes of developing the region’s tourism potential as a way to expand his own tourism business while helping his people.

When we weren’t working at documenting eastern Ethiopia’s heritage, we spent many relaxed hours at birtchas or spinning tales in local cafes. Friendships can be fleeting when you’re traveling, but Dake and I became good friends and kept up a regular correspondence when I was back in Europe.

When you make a real friendship on the road, treasure it. Keep in contact and head on back to see them. I wish I had made it back to Harar at least one more time while he was still alive. As the list of my friends who have died relentlessly lengthens, I find myself more appreciative of those I still have, and more determined to pack as much life into the years left to me before my own inevitable end.

Authors note: my pay for this post will be donated to Glimmer of Hope, an NGO working to help Ethiopia’s children. Dake had a son about the same age as mine so I think he’d appreciate it.