Adventures in the Amazon: Trekking the Jungle

Exploring the Amazon by boat is an incredible experience. The river is so vast and powerful that it can boggle the mind. For instance, during the high water season, it can reach 25 miles in width and more than 100 feet in depth. But there are certain aspects of the Amazon that you can only see if you leave the boat behind, and strike out into the jungle, which is as unique as the river it surrounds.

On my third day in the Amazon, we set out in the skiff like we had any other day, but this time the plan was different. Rather than piloting the boat far into the backwaters in search of wildlife and other unusual sights, we were looking for high ground, a place where we could go ashore and explore the Amazon on foot. Our guides knew where a small, permanent village was located not far from where we had set out that morning, and before long we were pulling into the shore, and hopping off the front of the skiff.

Wandering up the muddy banks and into a large clearing, we entered the village where a number of wide eyed children and mangy dogs looked on in curiosity. Scrawny chickens scrambled about as we passed, ducking under the primitive huts that were suspended above the damp ground on stilts. A half-dozen soccer jerseys hung from a laundry line, a testament to the popularity of the “beautiful game” even in this remote place.

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We soon walked through the village and approached a green wall of jungle that had one small opening onto a muddy path that wound off into the forest. A man from the village approached, spoke a few words in Spanish to our guide, and then led us down the path.

Within moments we were surrounded by jungle. The slight breeze that blew while near the river was gone, blocked by the impassable foliage, and the temperature increased noticeably just a few yards in. It had rained that morning, as it did 270 days a year in the Amazon Basin, which meant that the humidity was off the scale, and ground was saturated, turning what little trail we did have into a sea of mud.

The one thing you notice upon entering the jungle is the amount of noise that surrounds you. It isn’t overwhelmingly loud by any means, but there is just so much of it coming at you from all directions. Birds, bugs, monkeys, tree frogs, and more, all compete to be heard, squawking, chirping, and croaking as you pass. Occasionally we’d catch a glimpse of those animals in the branches overhead, but often they remained out of sight thanks to the thick jungle canopy. One thing was clear, the forest was alive all around us, and it was watching us as we were it.

The further we progressed into the jungle the narrower the trail became, and at times we were forced to break out a machete to continue to continue along our way. The fact that our boots were caked in mud didn’t help matters much, and neither did the very thick gaiters that we wore around our ankles. For those who don’t know, gaiters are a piece of gear that you generally slip over your boots on longer treks that help to keep rocks, dirt, and various other things from getting inside your boots and irritating your fee. Most of the time they are fairly light so that you barely even know they are there, but these particular gaiters, provided by the guides, were extremely thick and cumbersome, and it was difficult to not notice them as we hiked. As usual, there was a reason for this however. Typical gaiters would suffice to keep all the usual junk out of our boots, no doubt, but they don’t prevent snake bites the way these thicker versions do. When cutting through the dense jungle, you never know when you might come across one of the many snakes that inhabit the Amazon, some of which are deadly poisonous, and are apt to strike you on your ankles or calves.

Over the course of the next few hours, we wandered about the jungle, coming across wild banana trees, pineapples, papaya and more. We also wandered through a somber graveyard, built on the highest, driest, land the villagers could find, in order to protect those that were buried there. Our path even came across an incredibly dark, deep pond, which I dubbed a “Malaria Pool”, which seemed to have no way of navigating around. Instead, we had to make a perilous crossing on a 30 foot tree that had fallen between the banks. The trunk was thick and solid, but wet from the continuous moisture, and our muddy boots didn’t make the walk any easier. I grasped some low hanging vines to help steady me as I shuffled from one end to the other, and looking down along the way, I peered into the darkest pool of water I had ever seen. I imagined a jungle croc waiting beneath the surface or worse yet a large anaconda. Fortunately, I wouldn’t become acquainted with either that day, as I soon was standing on firm ground and continuing my trek.

Not long after the crossing of the “malaria pool” we found ourselves back at the banks of the river, where our taxi back to La Turmalina awaited. This wouldn’t be the last time we hiked in the jungle, but it left a lasting impression none the less. I couldn’t wait to see what other secrets the jungle had in store for us.

Next: A Night in the Rainforest

Read more Adventures in the Amazon posts HERE.

Adventures in the Amazon: Dolphins at the Confluence

The Amazon is a river of epic proportions. It stretches 4345 miles in length, making it the second longest in the world behind the Nile, but it is by far the largest in terms of volume, pushing more water than the next ten rivers combined. During the high water season, the Amazon can reach 25 miles in width at certain points, and more than 100 feet in depth as well. The Amazon is formed by the confluence of the Ucayalli and Marañon Rivers, which come together in the heart of the Peruvian rainforest. I traveled to that point, to see the headwaters of the Amazon for myself, and in the process, I had one of the most amazing experiences of the entire trip.

Early one morning, just before dawn, we set out from La Turmalina in one of the skiffs once agian. Our destination was the conflunce and before long we were cutting the engines and drifting in the exact spot where the Ucayalli and Manañon met. All around us the Amazon was being formed, as the two smaller tributaries came together to form the mightiest river on the planet.

The stillness of the morning was broken by a large splash not far from the boat. Another soon followed, and before long we were all watching the surface of the river intently, hoping to catch a glimpse of whatever it was that was causing the splashes. We were rewarded by some spectacular views of the freshwater river dolphins that are known to swim the entire length of the Amazon.

There are two species of dolphins that inhabit the river, a smaller gray variety, not unlike the traditional saltwater dolphins that we all know, and a larger pink dolphin which is unique to the Amazon. Both were on display that morning although the pink variety were a bit more shy, perferring to mostly stay beneath the surface. As is typical with the species, we generally only caught a glimpse of their torso as they would briefly break the surface.

In contrast, the grey, bottlenosed species was down right social. They regularly leapt from the water all around our boat, giving us ample opportunties to watch these beautiful and intelligent creatures. For twenty minutes we sat there, while the dolphins played, and while we had other places to go that morning, none of us was in a hurry to move along.

I can honestly say that watching those dolphins that morning is amongst my favorite travel memories of all time. It was a beautiful setting, with the sun coming up over the rainforest, and the most iconic river in the world flowing around me. It was a real highlight of the trip, and an experience that I can attempt to share with you in the video below. This is footage that I shot, and later edited together, to give everyone an idea of what it was like there that morning. Enjoy.

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Next: Jungle Trekking

Read more Adventures in the Amazon posts HERE.

American summits Everest for record 11th time

Last week we mentioned that Apa Sherpa, the legendary mountain guide, reached the summit of Mt. Everest, extending his record to an impressive 19th time on top of the world. A few days later, we noted that British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes also reached the summit, on his third attempt, at the age of 65.

Over the weekend, American mountaineer Dave Hahn, climbing with the First Ascent Team, also successfully topped out on the mountain, reaching the 29,035 foot summit, which is the highest point on the planet. For Hahn, this is his 11th trip up the mountain, a record for a non-Sherpa.

Hahn is a professional mountain guide who has scaled big mountains all over the world, and his resume includes 26 ascents of Mt. Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, and 18 summits of Denali, the tallest mountain in North America. He’s also been to the top of Mt. Rainier nearly 250 times in his illustrous career.

Congratulations to Dave, and the rest of the First Ascent Team for an amazing effort this year on Everest. With the entire team now down safely off the mountain, they are preparing for the trek back to Lukla, where they’ll catch a flight to Kathmandu, and finally, after nearly two months in Nepal, they’ll head home.

Sir Ranulph Fiennes conquers Everest at 65

A 65 year-old man who suffers from vertigo has climbed to the summit of Mt. Everest.

He is the famous English adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes, who adds this latest feat to a long string of successes such as crossing Antarctica unaided. In an exclusive interview with the BBC, Sir Ranulph says the key to avoiding vertigo is “not looking down” but he managed to take a peek when he reached the summit because “when you’re in that particular spot it would be a shame not to.”

The adventurer tried to scale the summit in 2005 but suffered a heart attack. Only a few months after his first heart attack in 2003, he ran seven marathons on seven continents in seven days, battling both exhaustion and jetlag. So it really wasn’t a great surprise that this guy made it up Everest eventually.

The BBC has also posted videos on the journey to get to the Everest base camp, which at 5,300 meters above sea level is a popular destination for hardy trekkers, and the journey to the summit via the South Col route. The summit stands at 8850 meters above sea level and is the highest point on Earth. The BBC, which always rises to the occasion when an Englishman truly rocks, has posted a detailed biography on Sir Ranulph.

The climb was done to raise money for the Marie Curie Cancer Care, a charity for which Sir Ranulph has raised huge sums of money in memory of his wife, who died from stomach cancer.

While Sir Ranulph has shown himself to be one of the world’s greatest living adventurers, he’s not the King of Everest. That honor goes to Apa Sherpa, who recently climbed Everest for the 19th time.

Budget Summer Vacation from Little Rock, Arkansas: Conway, hometown of American Idol Kris Allen

When David Cook won American Idol last year, I was curious about what there was to do in his hometown, Blue Springs Missouri. David Archuleta’s hometown, Murray City, Utah also caught my interest. Both hometowns looked not much more than shopping malls and high school football fields when shown on TV. Kris Allen’s hometown, Conway, Arkansas, however, seems to be a perfect budget travel vacation destination–really. How could it not be? It’s in the foothills of the Ozarks.

A quick drive, just 32 miles from Little Rock, Conway holds its own as a worthy budget travel destination with plenty to see and do. Besides boasting two colleges and a university, the small city is in close proximity to many of Arkansa’s state parks and historic landmarks. At the edge of the city are several lakes fit for boating, fishing and swimming. The one in the photo is Beaver Lake. That’s just the beginning of Conway’s pleasures.

Woolly Hollow, the closest state park is 18 miles from Conway in the Ozark foothills, and boasts Lake Bennet a sizable body of water that offers fishing, boating, and swimming. There are also hiking trails and camp sites.

For those interested in history, check out Woolly Cabin where the first settlers who came here lived. On various weekends there are special events and programs. One to keep in mind is the Annual Fun Day on June 19. The price is yummy. It’s free.

For one museum with one of the cheapest admission prices I’ve ever seen, also not far from Conway, head to the Plantation Agriculture Museum. The whole family can get in for $10. Adult tickets are only $3 and kids are $2. Under 6 is free. The museum highlights the agricultural history of cotton in Arkansas through World War II.

In Conway itself:

  1. Although rides on the Toad Suck Towboat aren’t possible, one of these boats that once crossed people from one side of the Arkansas River to the other is on display at the ranger’s office at the Toad Suck Ferry Lock and Dam in Toad Suck Park. The park is now touted as a great place for a picnic and watching boats go by. Besides, what a name!
  2. Another place that looks intriguing is Finton Sculpture Garden and Studio. I’m fond of outdoor sculptures that have a creative edge. Arkansas native, Finton Shaw’s assembled outdoor sculptures that fit my criteria of art I like to see. Some pieces have themes borrowed from other cultures. There is one titled “Girl from Madagascar” and another titled ” Shiva,” for example.
  3. Pickles Gap Village, also a Conway establishment is exactly right for kids and people who like to shop. It’s not a village where people live, but a collection of quaint stores and Kiddie Land that has rides and farm animals. The name comes from when a German immigrant overturned his wagon load of pickles when he was making his way across the creek. That’s the legend.
  4. For more area history, head to the Faulker County Historical Society Museum. The museum is housed in the original county jail.
  5. For entertainment, check out the Arkansas Shakespeare Theatre. Throughout June, the festival has Taming of the Shrew, MacBeth, The Producers and The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe on the menu.

Where to eat: Try Gina’s Jewel Restaurant for homemade country style food. It’s been given high praises. The Chamber of Commerce says for every type of food you like, you’ll find it in Conway. Here’s a link to a dining guide with 137 entries.

Where to stay: There are plenty of slumber options ranging from Super 8 on the budget end to the Hampton Inn which isn’t that expensive either, includes a hot breakfast and within walking distance to the city’s center. For a one-of-a-kind option, check out The Ward Mansion Bed and Breakfast. This historic home turned tourist spot is steeped in elegance.

The attractions I’ve mentioned here are only part of what there is to do in Conway. Here’s a link to more links. When it comes to hometowns, Kris Allen’s wins the award as a unique getaway.

I wonder if someone will think to put his face in a corn maze, though? David Archuletta had that honor.

For map of Arkansas to see where Conway is located and what is nearby, click here.