Photo of the Day: Pueblos blancos of Vejer de la Frontera

by Jessica Marati on

Today’s Photo of the Day depicts a stunning vista of white homes and colorful rooftops in Vejer de la Frontera, a tiny hilltop town at the tip of Spain overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. The town, like many in the Andalusian region, is split into two parts: the old Moorish medieval quarter and the newer district with characteristic pueblos blancos, pictured here. Flickr user Kurt Schmidt captured this image using a Canon EOS 7D on a recent jaunt through Spain.

Does your photo belong here? Upload your favorite travel shots, whether pro or Instagram, to the Gadling Group Pool and your image could be selected as our Photo of the Day.

Photo of the Day: Sunset over Bruges

by Jeremy Kressmann on

The Belgian city of Bruges is famous for its stunning medieval architecture – it’s a fact made all the more apparent by today’s photo, taken by Flickr user clee130. Taken at sunset, the city’s gothic cathedral spires (that’s the Church of Our Lady on the left, and St. Salvator’s Cathedral on the right) and angular roofs are bathed by the warm glow of an ethereal, golden light.

Taken any great photos during your travels? Why not add them to our Gadling group on Flickr? We might just pick one of yours as our Photo of the Day.

Mistra: a medieval ghost town in southern Greece

by Sean McLachlan on

On a steep hill overlooking the Vale of Sparta in southwestern Greece stands the last capital of the Roman Empire.

In 395 AD, beset by enemies, the empire split into western and eastern halves. The Western Roman Empire was soon overwhelmed. The east flourished. Its capital was at Constantinople, modern Istanbul. Known as the Byzantine Empire, it developed a distinctive style of art and architecture and protected the Greek Orthodox Church of its citizens.

Byzantium declined as civilizations always do, and suffered a serious blow during the Fourth Crusade in 1204. The Crusaders, who had originally set off to retake Jerusalem from the Muslims, decided to capture Constantinople instead. With its capital gone, Byzantium shattered into three small states. Byzantine art and the Greek Orthodox Church survived.

The Crusaders built an imposing castle on the summit of a hill overlooking the Vale of Sparta, one of a number of fortresses to protect their new domains. That didn’t work. The Byzantine emperor Michael VIII Palaeologos recaptured Constantinople and steadily pushed the Crusaders out of the lands they had conquered. The castle at Mistra was handed over to the Byzantines in 1262 and a fortified city gradually began to take shape around it. Mistra became the regional capital of the Morea, as the Peloponnese was then called.

The Palaeologian dynasty was the last to rule the Roman Empire. It was a time of political and economic decline, with the Turks pushing in from the east, the Venetians dominating trade, and numerous other enemies nibbling away at the borders. Morea was one of the last wealthy regions of Byzantium and despite the empire’s troubles witnessed a renaissance in art, learning, and culture.

Mistra is only seven kilometers outside of Sparta. It’s an easy walk but I was anxious to start my visit and so I took a taxi and decided I’d walk back through the olive groves. After a week of cloudy, cold weather, the sky had cleared and the air was cool and pleasant. The winding road up the hill is dominated by the massive town wall. Passing through the gate, I found myself walking along steep, narrow lanes between the remnants of homes, palaces, and churches. Several of these Orthodox houses of worship are still open.

These churches are deceptive. On the outside they are prettily made with patterned brick and a series of small domes and half domes around a large central dome. It’s inside that they show their true splendor. Frescoes cover the walls, domes, and pillars. Every available space is decorated with Biblical scenes and images of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and the saints, all painted in a rich but somber style.

%Gallery-146699%Mistra isn’t entirely a ghost town. A small nunnery called the Pantanassa is a miniature town inside the larger one. Men are allowed in to see its medieval church. When I arrived, one of the sisters, garbed all in black, was sweeping the sun-bathed courtyard while several cats lounged nearby. It was a perfect photo that of course I was too respectful to take. The church was built in 1428 and its rich frescoes show what a cultural high point the Palaeologian Renaissance was. The ground-floor frescoes are from the 17th and 18th centuries and represent a continuation of the art and ideas that made Byzantium great.

Back outside, I wended my way through the maze of little streets and came to the summit and its Crusader castle. Climbing to the top of the tallest tower, I looked out and saw the Vale of Sparta lay spread out beneath me, with the ancient ruins and modern city both visible. Behind me rose the snow-capped Taygetus mountains.

Of all Mistra’s medieval buildings, the most evocative is the church of St. Demetrios. Some scholars theorize this church may have been the site for the coronation of Constantine XI Palaeologos in 1449, the last emperor of Byzantium, and therefore the last emperor of Rome. He had served as Despot of the Morea while his older brother was emperor and lived in the palace at Mistra. It’s easy to imagine him here, with the images of Christ, Mary, and the saints looking down at him through the dim candlelight light as the priests sang their Orthodox hymns.

It must have been a glorious coronation and a sad one. Fears of usurpation from his other brothers meant the ceremony had to be rushed, and done in this provincial capital rather than the glorious church of Hagia Sofia in Constantinople. Even the crown showed Byzantium’s faded glory. The bankrupt Palaeologoi had long since hawked the crown jewels to the Venetians. Now the rightful heirs to the Roman Empire wore crowns of glass.

Besides the Morea and Constantinople, there was little left of Byzantium. The Ottoman Turks were closing in and in 1453 they made their final assault on Constantinople. The siege was a grueling one and it took the Turks weeks to pound the thick city walls into rubble with their cannon. In the final assault, the Emperor Constantine fought alongside his men and fell with them. He could have escaped. He could have made a deal. Instead he died fighting so that sad shadow of the Roman Empire would go down in glory.

But still Rome did not die. After the fall of Constantinople, the Ottomans spent time consolidating their position. Mistra survived until 1460 as the capital of the last free lands of Byzantium, and thus in a very real sense the last capital of the Roman Empire. Trebizond, a strip of territory on the south shore of the Black Sea, lasted another year, but that state had seceded from the empire before Constantinople was captured by the Crusaders and thus cannot be considered a part of it.

In the 15th century it was obvious to everyone that Byzantium’s days were numbered. Many Byzantine scholars and artists fled for safer havens. The favorite destination was Italy, where local rulers welcomed their learning and didn’t care much that they were Orthodox rather than Catholic.

These scholars brought with them books and a knowledge of Greek, Arabic, astronomy, history, philosophy, geography, and much more. They brought with them translations of the Classical authors of ancient Greece and Rome. Wealthy Italians, hungry for knowledge and for a model to inspire their own flowering culture, eagerly read these books and attended the lectures of Byzantine scholars. The influx of Byzantine learning was one of the major factors that led to the Italian Renaissance and the foundations of humanism and modern Western thought.

The torch had been passed.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Our Past in Peril, Greek tourism faces the economic crisis.

The battle of leaning towers: Germany wins

by Dave Seminara on

Germany and Switzerland have long been known as bastions of cool efficiency, where the trains run on time, locals scold visitors for jaywalking and everything works. But travelers might be surprised to know that these countries are also home to four of the world’s most crooked towers, all of which lean more dramatically than the much more famous Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy.

Since the completion of a decade-long restoration project reduced the angle of the Pisa tower’s tilt from 5.5 to just 3.99 degrees, a host of other towns have stepped forward to proclaim that their towers are the world’s biggest leaners, in the hopes that tourists will follow. In 2007, Reverend Frank Wessels, the pastor of a leaning church in the northwest German village of Suurhusen, contacted Guinness World Records, which confirmed the church as the world’s “Farthest Leaning Tower.” (see image above)

Wessels recently told Der Spiegel that the church now receives about 10,000 visitors per year. Not bad, but still quite modest compared to the 426,000 tourists who visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa last year, according to a tourism official quoted in The New York Times. But a number of other leaning towers have emerged in the wake of Suurhusen’s crooked anointment.
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A medieval defense tower in Dausenau, in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate, claimed a slightly greater tilt at 5.24 degrees, compared to 5.19 for Suurhusen, but Guinness rejected the bid because the tower is a crumbling ruin, not a functional, freestanding structure. A 12th century tower in St. Moritz, the tony Swiss ski resort, might have laid claim to the record, but a recent stabilization project reduced St. Mauritius’ slant from 5.4 degrees to 5.08.

Meanwhile, a 174 foot tall church bell tower in Bad Frankenhausen, a spa town in the eastern German state of Thuringia, has its own claim. The degree measurement of its slant is more modest than that of Suurhusen’s, but because its tower is nearly twice as tall, its total margin of deviation makes it appear even more crooked.Confused? Just wait. A steeple in Midum, a town near Suurhusen in the German region of East Frisia, claims its tilt is a whopping 6.74 degrees. But church leader Udo Aalderks hasn’t gotten around to making the claim with Guinness yet and it’s unclear if it would dislodge Suurhusen anyway, because the church in Midum is only 46 feet high.

An expert told Der Speigel that some 70% of the medieval churches of East Frisia are hopelessly tilted. Experts say this is because the region is “low-lying and marshy.” Many of the structures were built on wooden supports which are now rotting. Restoration is extremely expensive and the tower in Bad Frankenhausen is due for at least partial demolition unless the town can figure out how to pay for the needed repairs.

In 2010, Guinness sanctioned another leaning tower, this time in the Middle East. The Capital Gate tower in Abu Dhabi was purposely constructed with an impressive 18 degree slant and has been dubbed the world’s “Farthest leaning manmade tower.”

If you’re a crooked building aficionado, you might also check out the Leaning Tower of Pisa replica on Touhy Ave in Niles, near Chicago; the Crooked House in Sopot, Poland, and the Errante Guest House in Chile, to name just a few sloping beauties. And there is also the Crooked Road, Southwest Virginia’s 253-mile heritage music trail.

But despite all the competition for crooked glory, tourism officials in Pisa are apparently unconcerned by all the slanty claims. When a reporter for The New York Times asked Daniella Purchielli, Pisa’s tourism director, about the other towers, she said, “frankly, we haven’t heard about them. Our numbers are increasing.”

Gallery images via Wikimedia Commons, and Hippygit, Jaseman, and HarshLight on Flickr.

10 free things to do in Barcelona, Spain

by Jessica Festa on

Barcelona, Spain, is full of fun things to do and interesting sites to explore. Luckily, the city features many experiences for the budget traveler with free museums, walking tours, beaches, parks, museums, dance shows, and more. Use this list to help you save money while still experiencing the best the city has to offer.

Walk down Las Ramblas

Las Ramblas is the most famous street in Barcelona, and often the first stop on many tourists’ to-do list. Not only is the street lined with restaurants, bars, cafes, theaters, and shops; it’s also home to various street entertainers, performance art, and colorful markets, making the street both fun and aesthetically pleasing. I love seeing all of the people dressed in ostentatious costumes trying to act like still sculptures (Note: Some of them look really real. I actually leaned on one not realizing it was a person!). Las Ramblas is also a bit historical, as the famous native painter Joan Miró, who died in 1983, helped to create part of the street. You can see one of his mosaic creations on the ground of the main center walkway. Get creative at an art museum

There are many art museums in Barcelona that offer free entry all of the time. One really great venue to check out is the Fundacion Fran Daurel, which features various forms of contemporary art, like paintings, tapestries, sculptures, photography, ceramics, and more. My personal favorite art museum is the Metronom, which showcases really radical and sometimes erotic pieces that can be a bit shocking at times. Photography lovers should stop by the Fundacion Foto Colectania which houses about 2,500 works as well as features exhibitions, events, and workshops all having to do with taking pictures. Other great art museums that offer free admission at certain times include the Museo Picasso (first Sunday of each month and every Sunday after 3PM), the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (first Wednesday of each month) and the Museo Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (first Sunday of each month).

Discover the unique architecture of Antonio Gaudí

Runner Bean Tours offers a free Gaudí walking tour where you will be taken all over the city to see many of his unique, sometimes eery, sometimes Dr.Seuss-like creations. While I’m not particularly interested in architecture, I absolutely loved this tour. The buildings are so out of the ordinary that it’s easy for everyone to get excited about the tour, and the history of this passionate man is hard to believe at some points. My favorite part of the experience was finding the hidden meanings in the architecture, like the religious symbolism in the facade of the Sagrada Familia, the sexual undertones of Casa Mila, or the face of Casa Batlló that appears to resemble skulls and bones.

Get spiritual at the Catedral de Barcelona (Barcelona Cathedral)

There are many religious and sacred sites in Barcelona that are free to visit. My personal favorite is the Barcelona Cathedral, made in the 14th century with a very detailed facade, Gothic design, high bell towers, and gargoyle statues. Make sure to stroll through the garden, which is full of live geese and beatiful flora. The inside is immaculate as well, with magnificent stained glass windows, statues, and 16 chapels dedicated to various saints. I especially loved visiting the crypt, which holds a statue of Saint Eulalia, who was burned alive by the Romans for her radical beliefs. It’s free to enter the church itself, and to visit the church’s museum it’s only 1 euro. Moreover, a guided tour of the museum, rooftop, choir, and terraces is only 4 euros.

Spend a whimsical day at Parc Güell

Once you take the walking tour, you’ll know immediately upon arrival that this park was designed by Gaudí. Built in the very early 1900’s, it’s literally like walking through a fairytale, and you can easily spend hours getting lost in the various colorful quadrants filled with mosaic tiled benches, dragon statues, fountains, vibrant flora, artfully placed rock walls, and unique buildings like The Gaudí House Museum and The Pavilion. When I visited, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was walking through some kind of surreal Candyland game come to life. There are also locals with blankets set up around the park selling jewelry, souvenirs, and accessories.

Hit the beach

The beaches in Barcelona are beautiful, and also free. Most can be accessed by taking the Yellow Line on the metro. The most popular and crowded beach is Barceloneta Beach, which is closest to the city center. Here you’ll be able to lay out and relax, go swimming, or even partake in some adventure sports like surfing, kitesurfing, and windsurfing.There is also unique architecture in the area (Gaudí wasn’t the only architect in Barcelona that was a bit eccentric), and you can enjoy it while laying out on your towel. Nova Icária Beach is also a popular beach with a very young, trendy feel. On the other hand, Mar Bella Beach is well-known for being the nudist area, although technically in Spain you can layout in the nude anywhere as long as you don’t cause a disturbance.

Enjoy free tapas

While it’s not always easy to get free tapas in the bigger cities, there are some places that offer them with a drink if you look around. First there’s Ambiente del Sur, located in the L’Eixample neighborhood, a small Andalusan bar which serves free tapas like cold meats and cheeses, omelettes, and small salads with a drink. In the same area you can also visit is Bar Atrapatapa, which offers a wide variety of tapas and costs less than 2 euros with your drink. Other great options are Bar Mingus in the Gothic District and Gata Mala in the Gracia area, which both offer a free tapa with an ice cold beer.

See the Magic Fountain

In the evening, take a walk over to Montjuïc and see the Magic Fountain. It’s a beautiful showcase of water illuminated by different colors dancing to a mix of 70’s, 80’s, and classical music, depending which showing you catch. There are about 3,600 water jets, so you can imagine this isn’t your everyday fountain. Sit on the steps of the beautiful Palau Nacional Museum, the perfect viewpoint to catch the show. From October through April, you can catch shows every half hour on Friday and Saturday nights from 7PM-9PM. During the summer months of May through September, showtimes become more frequent, with viewings every half hour from Thursday-Sunday, 8PM-11PM.

Peruse ourdoor markets

Barcelona is home to many open-air markets that are fun to browse. If you’re looking for fresh, colorful foods, head over to Mercat de Sant Josep (Monday through Saturday), which is right off La Rambla. They have everything from seafood to fruit to meats to wine to already prepared lunches. For art, Mercadillo de la Plaça de Sant Josep is open on the weekends in Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol. You can peruse local art from various mediums and chat with friendly artists. My absolute favorite market in Barcelona, however, is the enormous Mercat Del Encants flea market in Plaça de les Glories Catalanes. It’s open Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 8AM-2PM, and is literally filled with the most random items you have ever seen, both of old and new varieties. Browse through books, electronics, fetish porn, cosmetics, old CD’s, accessories, vintage clothing, dolls, toys, housewares, collectibles, and more.

Enjoy a free dance show

Cafe de Los Angelitos in the Barceloneta Distrcit has a really artsy interior with sculptures and paintings and also offers free tango and jazz shows on Wednesdays and Sundays. While not completely free, Los Tarantos offers the best flamenco show in the city for only 8 euros.