Daily Secret offers insider intel for Istanbul, Athens, Shanghai and more

Last month, I went to a designer-clothing pop-up sale in the back of a restaurant, scored an invite to an exclusive party with Champagne and gourmet truffles, and got the manager’s private phone number of a hot new nightlife spot. I’m not famous or especially well-connected, I’m just a subscriber to DailySecret.com. Daily Secret is website and email newsletter that delivers insider intel for twelve cities from Buenos Aires to San Francisco, plus English-language editions for Athens, Istanbul, and Shanghai. Founded in Athens in 2010, Daily Secret spread to Istanbul last March, with over 200 secrets and counting.

The Istanbul secrets are compiled and curated by a team of 15 “scouts,” ranging from a fashion blogger, to a food critic, to a non-profit specialist in new companies who often hears about new ventures before they open. You can register with the site to receive the daily secrets, or search online by category, neighborhood, or date posted. Not all secrets are fancy or expensive, but they tend to be sophisticated and high-end. Daily Secret likes to be the first to write about a new service or business, or provide an added value for readers: an exclusive discount or giveaway, the unlisted phone number, or a spot on the guest list of an event.I met with Laura Wells, co-founder and editor of Istanbul Daily Secret, to get her best tips and favorites for the Turkish cultural capital. With a background in news journalism, Laura is an American expat with a discerning eye and impeccable tastes, who vets each secret and hopes that if you like the secret’s description, you’ll like the place too.

A year after the Capital of Culture is over, why travel to Istanbul in 2012?
Istanbul is not about trends or time-sensitive titles, though it is ‘hot’ these days. Istanbul has been around for thousands of years, and there’s nowhere else like it. It’s exotic, and yet also very accessible to foreigners, in terms of culture and things to do.

Essence of Daily Secret in one sentence?
We discover the best insider ‘secrets’ of each city for our members (in our case, Istanbul), that most locals don’t even know about!

Favorite museum/culture spot with no tourist buses in sight?
Turkey is now becoming known internationally for its modern art market. The most impressive art museum in Turkey, I think, is actually a private, family-owned museum. Its collection pairs renowned artists from around the world with local Turkish talents, and entrance is free! The Elgiz Museum/Proje 4L often has receptions & exhibits of emerging Turkish artists as well as many panel discussions in English. It’s one of Istanbul’s best-kept secrets, truly!

Where to go for an only-in-Istanbul souvenir, that’s actually made in Turkey?
I love artistic souvenirs that can become heirlooms, and we recently discovered a brand-new company started by the wife of Turkey’s Minister of EU Affairs, Egemen Bagis. His wife Beyhan has worked with local artisans to develop Anatoli, which offers three lines of exquisite pieces for the home ranging from straight traditional to modern based on an old motif. Beyhan Bagis conducted research with a professor of Turkic Studies to resurrect these designs and unusual pieces; for instance, Anatoli carries an incredibly elaborate silver-plated, hand-wrought sculpture that’s actually an Ottoman-style rose water holder to make the room more fragrant. It’s the closest thing to owning an antique (there are many fakes here!). The prices start at 65 TL, so nearly anyone can purchase something, and they’ll all fit in your carry-on. Read more here.

Best new hotel in a hip neighborhood?
For a reasonably-priced (and now very hip) hotel, Georges is a standout! The co-owner & manager Alex Varlik, a Parisian transplant, is very hospitable, and I love that they preserved this historic building’s original details. You’re steps from the Galata Tower, but the entrance’s in on such a quiet, little cobblestone street. Even Istanbul’s glamorous set is now flocking to this “old town” establishment, the intimate restaurant/bar Le Fumoir. Just opened this month across the Golden Horn, HHK Hotel is a charming new property with sauna, pool, and hammam, and we’re giving away a 2-night stay in February. The winner can be from anywhere in the world, you just have to be a Daily Secret member.

Comfy and cool bar you wish was in your neighborhood?
To hang out with the young art crowd & intelligentsia, head to the less-visited Asian side, for your pick of funky hangouts on Kadikoy’s Kadife Street (aka Bar Street). Karga at #16 is an art and performance space in an old building designed by the same architect as the train station. It recently celebrated 15 years and has its own magazine. Hidden above street level, Dunia at #19 is a new 2-story restaurant/bar that prints its schedules so you can hear a performance, watch a movie, and see an exhibit. Arkaoda at #18 is a lounge for music lovers, and the kind of place the owner doesn’t necessarily want you to find – unless you know someone, that is.

Where to splurge on a last-night-in-town dinner?
For a proper Ottoman meal and to try dishes you can almost never find anywhere else, as they did with the former Empire, try Pasha Bebek. Unlike many of the restaurants serving the traditional cuisine here, this is elegant, and in a ‘hot’ neighborhood. The hostess, Anita, is like an encyclopedia about all the dishes and she loves sharing the history behind them. She’s there every night and speaks wonderful English.

Recommended tour guides for more insider intel?
One of Daily Secret’s employees, Resat Erel, is also a long-standing private tour guide, also fluent in English & French. He’s a member of TURSAB, the tourist guide association, and he mainly gives tours to visiting dignitaries. He knows all the ‘secrets’ of Istanbul and is a great asset to us! In return, we have to give him up on certain days. If you want to have a private tour based on your preferences, he’ll work with you to shape your itinerary. His email address is: resaterel@gmail.com, phone +90.532.670.1369. For a culinary tour to try lots of different dishes, in very little time, and get to walk around the city or cross the Bosphorus by boat – Delicious Istanbul is a new company providing cooking classes and tasting tours for 2-6 people.

What’s happening in 2012 for Daily Secret?
Vancouver just launched, and we’re also launching Android & iPhone applications for each city this month (we’ll be announcing them on our sites, and they’ll be available through our sites and in the iTunes store), and people will be able to see the secrets in each neighborhood as they pass through, like a personal tour guide. We’re also working on English versions of all foreign cities.

Sign up and browse the secrets at www.dailysecret.com and find them on Facebook.

Summer Travel: Athens to Meteora

You don’t have to be an accountant to know that Greece’s spreadsheets are in need of some serious financial overhaul. Some would argue that the country is essentially bankrupt, and that nothing short of a European bailout and/or a return to the drachma can save it from total economic ruin.

The silver lining on the ominous storm cloud is that Greece has the potential to be one of the world’s top tourism destinations. The cradle of Western civilization, Greece is an ancient land replete with ruined cities of yore. It also has stunning natural spaces, from rugged highlands and fertile vineyards to sandy beaches and turquoise seas.

The Greek islands already attract their fair share of backpackers, cruise shippers and package holiday travelers alike. But the government’s vision is to spread the profitable fruits of tourism into the Greek hinterlands. A tough order indeed, especially given the lack of funds needed to operate struggling museums, historic sites and national parks.

In the spirit of optimism however, we’re going to use today’s blog to highlight one of our favorite Greek itineraries, namely the northern road from Athens to Meteora.

%Gallery-123052%To many people – myself included – Athens is as much a symbol as it is a destination. More than three millennia ago, Athens gave birth to the modern ideals of democracy. As a center of cultural arts and scientific learning, classical Athens hosted the academies of both Plato and Aristotle. Before its defeat by Sparta in 404 BCE, Athens was the metaphorical shining beacon of knowledge amongst the Peloponnesian city states.

Despite this distinguished pedigree, Athens doesn’t enjoy the same vaulted tourism status as other European capitals. At the very least, it’s nowhere near as romantic as Paris, nor as monumental as Rome. Detractors (Athenians included) take their criticism even further, and lament over the city’s poor sanitation, choking traffic, stray animals and graffiti-covered buildings.

To be fair, Athens was the target of a comprehensive urban renewal campaign in the run-up to the 2004 Olympics. And while the more superficial elements of the clean-up are no longer evident, Athens now boasts an immaculately restored historic center complete with pedestrian shopping streets and a massive open-air archaeological park.

The centerpiece is of course the Acropolis, a flattened hilltop that rises five-hundred feet. Here rests the Parthenon, arguably the most celebrated ruins in the whole of Europe. Constructed in the fifth century BCE, the Parthenon honors Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom and the patroness of the city.

Since the 1970s, the ruins have undergone extensive restoration to replace corroded iron pins with rust-resistant titanium ones. Aesthetic damage caused by the 1687 battle between the resident Ottomans and the invading Venetians is also being targeted. Marble cut from the original quarry will be precisely fitted into existing cracks and holes. As such, don’t be surprised if sections of the Acropolis are covered in scaffolding upon your arrival.

While we could highlight some of capital’s other noteworthy attractions, today’s post is really about journeying into the Greek countryside, specifically northwestern Thessaly. In order to embark on this trip, simply take a taxi to Larissa railway station. From here, there are several daily train departures to the town of Kalampaka. The trip should take you no more than 5 hours at a cost of around twenty euros. Note that while highway buses make the same journey, the train trip is, in our humble opinion, much more scenic.

Kalampaka is a lovely little hamlet nestled at the base of Meteora, a collection of monasteries that were built in the Middle Ages atop towering sandstone pillars. In addition to serving as a pilgrimage site for followers of the Eastern Orthodox church, Meteora also enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status. Fans of James Bond might recognize Meteora as one of the film locations in For Your Eyes Only (1981). Younger readers might also recognize Meteora as the inspiration for Linkin Park’s album Meteora (2002).

Even if you’re previously unfamiliar with Meteora, it doesn’t take long to become enchanted by its magic. First built in the mid-14th century, the monasteries at Meteora were established as religious sanctuaries from the political upheaval. As the Byzantine Empire began to crumble, and threats of Turkish encroachment grew in severity, monastic orders took to the pillars for safety and freedom from persecution.

Accessing such lofty heights was something of an exercise in religious faith. A combination of ladders, ropes and nets were needed to scale the rocks, and it was not until the early 20th century that steps were first carved out of the foundation stone. Even more astounding is the presence of a local legend, which dictates that the ropes were only replaced when the Lord above allowed them to break!

Although more than twenty monasteries were originally constructed, only six remain today – the others were unfortunately destroyed during World War II aerial bombing campaigns. The monasteries are still inhabited by small numbers of monks and nuns, though they largely operate as tourist attractions.

In terms of visiting, most accommodation options are located in Kalampaka alongside restaurants, bars, cafes and other tourist-related services. Organized bus tours dominate the roads, but independent travelers can easily hire a taxi and complete the monastery circuit on their own. Alternatively, you can also eschew motorized transportation all-together, and follow weathered foot paths up into the hillsides.

While there is no denying the allure of the Greek islands, consider adding the Athens-Meteora circuit to your summer travels. Sure, you’re bound to sweat a bit in the summer heat, but it will give some perspective to subsequent idle lazing alongside the shores of the Mediterranean. And finally, just in case you need a bit more inspiration, check out the gallery below.

[All photos and gallery images are the author’s own original work unless otherwise specified.]

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Discovery Adventures travel company debuts 2011’s Discovery Channel-inspired trips

Armchair traveler red alert! Discovery Adventures is offering eight new Discovery Channel-inspired cultural trips for 2011, including Greece, Turkey, Italy, France, Japan, and East Africa. Explore archaeological sites near Athens, visit wineries in Tuscany, safari in Kenya, or soak in hot springs in the Japanese Alps. Trips are limited to 16 people, and run from eight to 15 days. Accommodations range from boutique hotels and inns with local character to eco-lodges.

Discovery Adventures has teamed up with adventure travel industry leader Gap Adventures and non-profit Planeterra to offer travelers more opportunities to positively impact the lives of communities around the world. Each trip provides travelers with an opportunity to visit destinations (often traveling by traditional modes of transport such as rickshaw or elephant) and interact with local people in an ecologically-responsible manner. In addition to your guide, you’ll be accompanied by local historians, archaeologists, artisans, and naturalists. Time to get off that Barcalounger!

[Photo credit: Flickr user Arno & Louise Wildlife]

Zombies with passports: The Walking Dead goes worldwide


In order to promote the new show The Walking Dead on AMC, swarms of zombies invaded 26 cities worldwide (including my city of Istanbul, pictured above and filmed here) earlier this week, lurching around major tourist landmarks and generally freaking out passerby. The undead began their sightseeing in Taipei and Hong Kong, then hit European capitols including London, Rome, and Athens. More arose in Buenos Aires, Sao Paolo, and Johannesburg, before going after American brains coast to coast from New York to the show’s premiere in Los Angeles. Check out more photos and video on the show’s blog and Facebook page.

Zombies would make ideal travelers: they can walk through airport security slowly and with no complaints, pack lightly, and don’t need to be fed or entertained on planes. If you can evade the attempts to gnaw on your flesh, they’d make better seatmates than a screaming baby or an armrest hoarder on a long flight. When there’s no more room in coach, we will all walk the earth.

See any zombies on your commutes or travels this week? Leave a comment below if you escaped unbitten. Want more Halloween dead-eyed fun? Our favorite British bear does his take on the zombie genre with Dawn of the Ted.

[Photo Courtesy of Fox International Channels]

Greece will compensate tourists in case of national strike

As strikes, protests, and other forms of industrial action continue in Greece, tourism officials are scrambling to reassure visitors that the country is open for business. Bookings are down ten percent, and with tourism accounting for twenty percent of the national income, it’s the economic equivalent of being kicked while you’re down.

So the government has offered to compensate any tourist who gets stranded because of a general strike or similar action. As an extra added bonus, Greece promises to compensate anyone stranded in the event that the Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajökull erupts again.

While it’s reassuring that Greece will offer a helping hand if needed, it’s a bit worrying just how needed that may be. Strikes continue in Greece and the country has already ground to a halt on more than one occasion. Public sector workers are facing big cuts in pay and benefits, which is leading to strikes in public transportation.

Have you traveled to Greece recently? Tell us of your experiences in the comment section.


Photo courtesy user colmdc via Gadling’s Flickr pool.