Round-the-world: Mauritius top five

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Mauritius has all sorts of charm by the bucketload. It’s got beaches, beautiful resorts, rough-and-tumble districts, colonial architecture, and a tropically lush physical environment. Following are five stand-out places and pastimes that showcase the island’s distinctive beauty.

1. Local grub. In addition to the fresh seafood on offer, there are hunting reserves on Mauritius that generate incredibly delicious venison and boar. Eat these things. Plenty of other food items have to be transported over huge distances and are not particularly fresh. Two restaurants in the south of the island (La Bougainville in Blue-Bay and Les Copains d’Abord in Mahébourg) are particularly good; the latter has a direct relationship with a hunting preserve and puts especially tasty and fresh things on its menu. Its hearty sausage stew, which admittedly has to be flown over 300 miles from Rodrigues Island, is outstanding.

2. Botanical Gardens. The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens (above and below) are referred to by locals as Pamplemousses. They are a wonderfully peaceful place to relax, despite poor signposting. Guides can be arranged, though it’s perfectly pleasant to simply wander around in blissful semi-ignorance, enjoying the beautiful foliage. The gardens contain a monument to Sir Ramgoolam, the first president of Mauritius following independence, trees planted by visiting heads of state, and a gorgeous colonial mansion (see below.)


3. Le Jardin de Beau Vallon. Located near the airport, this hotel and restaurant occupies a colonial house dating to the 18th century. The restaurant is in the main building, with guest rooms in the house and in several detached cottages. The restaurant is very good, one of the best we sampled in Mauritius. The house, which has been restored beautifully, casts a romantic spell. If you’ve ever had fantasies about drinking rum on a porch on an Indian Ocean island while curtains billow behind you and the fan churns its way through the thick heat, then this is one place to quench them. And if you’ve never entertained such fantasies, an evening at Le Jardin de Beau Vallon might just conjure them up.

4. Beaches. At Chantemer, we were awfully lucky. The windswept beach at the guest house’s doorstep is beautiful. On weekends it fills up a bit with kiteboarders and picnickers, but never to the point of annoyance. There are other great beaches on Mauritius, but this one, to the west of Pointe D’Esny, is very possibly the island’s best.

5. Bois Cheri tea factory. The relatively steep admission here (350 rupees, over $12) ends with a tea tasting at the factory’s hilltop restaurant. The tour starts in a cavernous museum room full of displays devoted to the history of tea and the tea industry. A guided tour of the factory follows. It’s fascinating to watch the tea leaves arrive, go through the drying, slicing, and heating process, and then get packaged. The tour is fascinating. It’s also strangely comforting to be overwhelmed by the deep scent of tea leaves at various stages of transformation. Tours are always offered on Wednesday, and during heavier harvest times tours are provided on a daily basis.

Check out other posts in the Capricorn Route series here.

Round-the-world: Chantemer, a Mauritius guest house

by Alex Robertson Textor on

“This is not a hotel. This is a private home.” With these words, Indra Tinkler, widely referred to simply as “Madame” by taxi drivers and other tourism providers across the south of Mauritius, introduces us to Chantemer, her small guest house. There is a flourish of the hand in the delivery. I assume–it turns out correctly–that we are in for an entertaining stay.

Located at Pointe d’Esny near Mahébourg, Chantemer’s neighborhood is a prosperous one, occupying an idyllic stretch of coastline between a resort called Preskil and the town of Blue-Bay. The surrounding area is full of lovely villas, none garish or McMansion-like. Most of these villas boast a stretch of white-beige beach of their own.

Chantemer is the sort of quiet, good value guest house that cost-conscious travelers yearn for, treasure, and then recommend to the like-minded. The house’s downstairs, where Madame lives, is stylishly appointed. Guest rooms are tasteful and simple, with many of Madame’s own paintings hanging throughout. The basics for budget-minded and midrange leisure travelers are all there. The water heater works. The breakfasts (fruit, bread, and coffee) are fresh if small, though a boiled or fried egg can be ordered for an additional 25 rupees, which is less than $1. Rooms also have refrigerators, and two of the three rooms have balconies with sea views. Rooms do not have televisions. If anything, this amenity absence adds to the bolthole atmosphere. Chantemer’s backyard, which leads down to the beach, is populated with palm trees and bougainvillea, among other tropical flora. After nine days spent checking out many different beaches on Mauritius, we came to the conclusion that Chantemer’s beach was the best on the island. That claimed, the constant presence of windsurfers and kiteboarders playing with the robust wind means that it’s infrequently completely empty.

To be sure, there are some downsides. The wireless Internet did not work while we were there, and there are no phones in rooms. This latter fact means that, until they get their bearings, guests are dependent on Madame to call for taxis. As the guest house is a good 20-minute walk from the nearest restaurant and taxi availability slows down dramatically at night, this dependence can be a little bit difficult, especially in light of Madame’s busy social calendar. These logistics can be handled with a little advance planning.

While Mauritius has its share of extravagant five-star resorts, the island is less well-known for small, unassuming guest houses. Chantemer is the perfect pick for anyone looking for a simple, relatively inexpensive retreat. There are three rooms currently on offer. Ours, with a direct view (see below) of the beach, ran €78 per night. A more expensive unit has a kitchen. My sole recommendation, if you find yourself considering a booking, is to request a room with a sea view. Chantemer is one place where a kick-ass dawn view is certainly worth a few extra euros.

Check out other posts in the Capricorn Route series here.

The beach town you’ll probably never see: Wonsan, North Korea

by Tom Johansmeyer on
Umbrellas are firmly planted in the sand, and children splash through the water in pursuit of a ball or each other. The scene is exactly what you’d see on either U.S. coast, or at any number of beaches around the world. And, because access is free, all walks of life can be found lounging on the sand, dipping a toe or simply enjoying each other’s company. Yet, this isn’t just any beach – it’s one of the toughest in the world to reach.

The seaside community of Wonsan affords a bit of relief from what can be a difficult life in North Korea. Food isn’t always easy to come by, and low pay leads to little disposable income – not that everyone would have ample opportunity to use it. None of this prevents people from spending some of their time at the beach, however, a true equalizer in a political environment that seeks exactly that goal (regardless of whether it attains it … or even truly pursues it).

Anyone who’s taken the family to the beach here in the United States, doubtless, knows that snacks can be a bit pricey – and it usually makes sense to bring your own food. Well, it’s time to stop complaining! Compared to the costs in North Korea, you have it easy. Back in Pyongyang, where the sartorial freedom of the beach is not permitted, you’ll drop £4 on a pizza, which is equivalent to three months’ salary for the average person in this “workers’ paradise.”

Check out the original coverage in the Mirror for a glimpse into daily life in North Korea (through authorized photos).

[photo by stngiam via Flickr]

Top 10 Maui beaches

by Jason Heflin on

The Hawaiian islands are known far and wide for the quality of their beaches. From narrow strips of volcanic black sand with dramatic jungle backdrops, to crowded beaches full of the who’s who of the world, Hawaii has a beach for everyone. Maui has just as much diversity as the entire island chain with over 30 miles of beaches. The most easily accessible beaches are located on the west and south or leeward sides of the island. Conversely, the north sees quite a bit of wind and waves while the eastern or windward side harbors more remote beaches in the inlets and bays.

With so many options of beaches to choose it’s hard to pick just ten, but we’ll pick our favorites for you below:

Napili Beach

This crescent shaped beach is tucked into a bay holding several smaller resorts north of Lahaina in west Maui. Gain access to this beach on Hui Drive after you pass north of Lahaina and beyond a few of the larger resorts on your left. Napili is a perfect place to plant your beach gear and drop in the water for some body boarding. To take part, body boards can be purchased at any of the local water sports shops and can even be picked up at many of the convenience stores.

Napili is a steep beach with plenty of sand. Children are fine here when the waters are calm, but be aware that the waves can get rough; there can be a strong undertow so test the waters before sending younger kids in. Another tip: shade is sporadic and usually taken by the wee morning hours so arrive early. Parking is free on the street but is a pain in the rear to find. Keep driving around and something usually opens up near the beach access due to rotating traffic from the grocery across the street.

Kapalua Beach

With sounds of swaying palms and gently crashing waves, Kapalua has a reputation for good swimming — and rightly so: it’s perfect for families and children as the undertow is rarely a problem and the water seldom gets too unruly for little ones. Besides the calm swimming waters the beach is a beautiful backdrop for a picnic and the coconut tree grove and lava points at the ends of the beach make for a great photo op, so don’t forget the camera. If you need quick access to the beach, The Sea House restaurant offers a great way to get in.

Ka’anapali Beach

Ka’anapali isn’t the only name this beach has — the locals have several other names for it and nobody can seem to agree on one. This may make getting directions a bit confusing, but don’t let that stop you. Ka’anapali is a wide beach lined with towering condos on the backside and usually smooth waves on the other. Sand is plentiful here and sandcastle building is a must.

The other popular activity on Ka’anapali is watching the sun set. There are no obstructions (save the occasional sailboat) to block your view of the ever-popular Hawaiian sunset. Some even say you can see the “green flash” here.

Green flash or not, Ka’anapali is a great place to watch the sun drop below the horizon. There is also a long paved path along the back side of the beach which makes for a romantic stroll at the end of the day.

Makena Beach

Makena beach, has it all, and proved to be one of my favorite spots as I spent time roughing it here. If facing the beach, the right end has access to water sports at the resort. Snorkeling gear, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and even snorkel cruises can be booked there. The left side of the beach is more tranquil with some shade for escaping the skin-melting sun and picnic tables for lunch breaks.

There is beach access where Makena Road dead ends. If you can’t find a spot for your car near the turnaround at the end of the road, extra parking is also available on Makena Road at the historic Keawala’i Church. Interestingly, this 1832-built church is constructed of lava stone and is a site to see all by itself. Or if you want to show off with valet parking drop your car at the Makena Beach and Golf Resort.

Big Beach

If you seek the perfect beach for throwing a football, tossing a Frisbee, or kicking a soccer ball, this is it. Big beach lives up to its name in that it is not only long and wide but in that it holds some rather sizable crowds. The sandy beach recesses very far from the water and allows for plenty of room for activities. Parking is tight and even on weekdays the lot will be full. Don’t be deterred by this small snag, however, the beach can handle the crowds.

Looking for some shade? At the far end of the beach, a hefty walk from the entry walkway, there is a large lava rock wall which supplies shade in the mornings.

Little Beach

Another creatively named beach, Little Beach, is connected to Big Beach via a rock scramble. Passing the lava rock wall on your right at the end of Big Beach you’ll encounter a path leading over the rocky point and down onto Little Beach. This is a great place to get away from the crowds and it’s also a great place to shed your bathing suit — local nudists call this place home.

Little Beach is less frequented, which leaves plenty of room to enjoy the good snorkeling, excellent body boarding and swimming.

Hana Bay

Hana Bay is one of the few beaches on the east side of the island that actually draws a crowd, though that crowd won’t be anything like what you’ll experience at the beaches on the west and south sides. For the tiny hamlet of Hana, the hundred-or-so people dotting the beach is considered full. Hana’s blue waters are a great place to dig a kayak paddle into when the sun gets hot and the black sand gets hotter. The government allows you to take some of that sand away in a bottle too – free souvenir score!

The landscape at Hana Bay drops steeply from the mountains and is covered with lush green vegetation. The frequent rains on this side of the island have prevented mass-development and kept the community small and friendly. Comprised of black sand, the remnants of lava flows of yore, the beach at Hana has plenty of shade and the park lining the back of the beach has places to leave your car nearby.

For food, TuTu’s snack shop is located in a building at the back of the beach. Its over-priced hamburgers may not be the best, but the view is worth every dollar.

Red Sand Beach

The aptly named Red Sand Beach sports a sand with a reddish tint which derives its color from the cinder cone just to the rear of the bay. There is a lava wall which keeps rough waters out of this small cove and prevents the sand from eroding it. The beach has little to offer in the way of snorkeling or swimming. What it lacks in activities, however, it more than makes up in beauty. The red beach, azure waters, and the green hillsides that drop to this little slice of heaven could just become the subject of the best photo you take in your life. To reach this secluded beach drive to the far side of Ka’uiki Hill, just to the south of Hana Bay.

La Perouse Bay

As part of the Ahihi Kina’u Natural Preserve, this stretch of water and beach is an ideal place to get your snorkel wet. La Perouse is all about getting in the water, and not about beach bumming. The beach is scattered with remnants of the last lava flow that made its way down Haleakala around 1790. The lava-leftovers make for some obstacles when wading, so be sure to wear foot protection when exploring these waters.

Dolphin sightings are frequent and there are several archeological sites in the area to see, while a small hole in the lava rock a few hundred yards past the parking lot produces a scenic blowhole some afternoons. Drive to the end of Makena Alanui Road to find this place. The drive takes you past several nice homes overlooking beautiful lava and sand strewn beaches. Be sure to lock your car when you leave the parking lot, break-ins are reported from time to time.

Secret Cove or Pa’ako Beach

Something is not much of a secret if you can read about it in guidebooks – so I don’t think I’m in danger of revealing anyone’s private sanctuary here — after all, it’s not much of a secret when this is such a popular place to get married. Nevertheless Pa’ako Beach (pictured at right) bares the name “Secret Cove.”

Discover the Secret Cove by passing Big Beach in the South and then parking near the first telephone pole you see. Across the street from that pole is a wall with a hole large enough to walk through. Passing through it is like entering an enchanted tropical garden.

[Photo: Kaanapali Beach. Tony Faiola/Flickr]

Sharks circle Cape Cod

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Cape Cod vacationers just lost access to five miles of beach, thanks to sharks in the water. A spotter pilot saw three more great whites, one of them a mere 100 yards from a party on the sand. They’re swimming around off South Beach in Chatham, Massachusetts, and swimming is definitely out of the question. No timeframe has been given for when the water will be open again.

One shark is estimated to be 14 long and weigh 1,50 pounds – this is the aquatic beast that was found only a football field away from the shore. Before the recent sighting, several other sharks were seen off the coast of Chatham.

The state’s marine fishery officials blame seals, which I imagine are tasty, for drawing the sharks closer.

[photo by miusam-ck via Flickr]