Have A Heart: How This Organ Meat Is Eaten Around The World

by Laurel Miller on

Americans are frequently credited with having a lot of heart, but when it comes to eating them, we’re not so hip on the idea. Even though offal, or “nose-to-tail” eating has been on-trend for some years now, a lot of people still flinch at the idea of dining on animal heart.

The reality is, heart is a delicious, healthy, versatile meat, devoid of the strong flavor possessed by most (improperly prepared) organ meats. My chef friend Ryan Hardy says, “The heart is a muscle, just like loin or shoulder.” A former farmer who makes his own charcuterie, Ryan’s made a name for himself with dishes like veal heart scallopine, and other rustic, meaty treats.

The rest of the world uses the hearts of all sorts of critters, from frog to horse, in a variety of ways. In honor of our own heart-centric holiday (that’s Valentine’s, y’all), I’ve provided a list of the most well known dishes, along with some modern interpretations of classic recipes, by some of the nation’s most acclaimed chefs.

Anticuchos
One of the tastiest/least frightening of heart dishes are these skewered and grilled chunks of beef heart from Peru. Although anticuchos can be made with the hearts of other species, corazon de vaca is the most popular, and sold by street food vendors across the country, and in other parts of South America.

Cobra heart
We’ve all seen it on the Travel Channel, whether it’s “No Reservations,” “Bizarre Foods,” or some other show. Or perhaps you’ve experienced it for yourself: the old, snake-heart-in-a-shot-of-firewater, or swallowing the still-beating-cobra or frog heart. It’s what men in parts of Asia use in place of Viagra, and frankly, I’d take impotence, any day. For anyone who’s ever stared into a bottle of rice whisky, cloudy with flecks of tissue, and observed a bobbing gray blob of reptile or amphibian heart, you know what I’m talking about.
Haggis
The beloved national dish of Scotland consists of a sheep’s stomach stuffed with a highly-seasoned mixture of the animal’s lungs, heart and liver, mixed with oatmeal. If that doesn’t tempt you, perhaps the cooking technique will. Boiling is nothing if not sexy.

Giblets
Originally, this term referred to a stew of game birds, and dates back to the 16th century. Today, it refers to the edible organs – usually heart, liver, and gizzard – of poultry, which are used for making gravy. Tip: Caramelize these suckers before attempting to make stock and/or ragù from them; it makes all the difference in depth of flavor in the final dish. Serve atop fresh pappardelle pasta, and you have a dish that says, “I love you.”

Coer de Veau Farci
This classic French dish from centuries past consists of veal heart stuffed with forcemeat (often mushrooms) and wrapped in caul fat, before being cooked in the oven. It’s served with a reduction of the pan juices and white wine enriched with butter. According to “Larousse Gastronomique,” the French bible on all things culinary, “Pig or sheep hearts are used to make a ragout or a civet [a game stew thickened with blood].”

In the contemporary world, heart is growing more mainstream thanks to the work of chefs and food personalities. For example, last June, I attended a cooking demo by Andrew Zimmern at the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen. The theme was “Game On!” and Zimmern prepared a handful of dishes utilizing oft-unloved animal parts. He converted the dubious, especially with his grilled venison hearts with arugula, sauce Gribiche and shallot rings

Another acquaintance of mine, Jonathon Sawyer, chef/owner of Cleveland’s acclaimed The Greenhouse Tavern, is serving up confit beef heart paprikash (with bacon, onion, smoked paprika, steamed potatoes and spaetzel) as part of this year’s Valentine’s Day Menu. I asked Jonathon what had inspired this untraditional take on paprikash, which usually calls for chicken meat (heart-free).

He told me, “It was partly inspired by my travels in Europe. When cooking things like offal at the restaurant, we like to use familiar flavors that encourage our guests to give it a try. To me, nothing is more comforting than a big bowl of Hungarian paprikash just like Grandma Szegedi used to make.”

That, my friends, is love.

[Photo credits: heart, Flickr user Baie.; haggis, Flickr user CasadeQueso]

Lonely Planet’s Best Worst Pick-Up Lines For Travelers

by Laurel Miller on


“I hope you’re not a monk, because I’d love go Tibet with you.” Cue sound of detonating bomb.

Our friends at Lonely Planet recently compiled a list of the best worst travel-themed pick-up lines, via Twitter. The results are hilarious, as well as cringe-inducing. Some of our favorites:

“This may not be India, but since I saw you, I’ve felt like I’m in Lucknow.”

“You must be from Paris, because you’re driving me in Seine.”

“Hey girl, you’re looking Varanasi.”

“Would you allow me Dubai you a drink?”

“Did you overstay your visa? Because you’ve got ‘fine’ written all over you.”

We were always taught that puns are the lowest form of humor. But it seems there’s a time and a place for everything (we were also taught not to use cliches in our writing). Here’s hoping these come-ons give you the, uh, tools you need for a great Valentine’s Day. Good luck out there.

[Photo credit: Flickr user debaird™]

Budget Guide 2013: Brooklyn

by Elizabeth Seward on

The days of visiting New York City and staying solely in Manhattan are over. Although the city’s center borough has earned its fame, there’s a new New York in town: Brooklyn. It’s true that many neighborhoods in Brooklyn have already gentrified rapidly, but there are still far more budget-friendly neighborhoods in the borough than not. The collective desire to keep expenses down still exists in Brooklyn and from that demand stems the economically sensible result: Brooklyn is still a treasure box of unbelievable deals, but this fades every year. So strike while the iron is hot and hop on the train over to the vibrant borough of Brooklyn, where each neighborhood brings something new and the bargains are many, no matter the area.

Hotels

The Nu Hotel: With four locations in Brooklyn, The Nu Hotel is an increasingly popular choice for budget accommodations in Brooklyn. With attractive and simple design, this boutique hotel is loft-inspired and even offers use of their new 2012 Brooklyn Cruiser bikes. The hotel’s general manager will even guide you on a jog across the Brooklyn Bridge on Tuesday mornings, which for first-timers is a must. To keep the Brooklyn theme going strong, the art on the walls is done by local artists – including some of the rooms featuring murals. From $160. nuhotelbrooklyn.com 85 Smith StreetHotel Le Bleu: Located on the border of Park Slope and Gowanus, this neighborhood is easily walkable with plenty of options for dining, drinking, shopping, recreation, arts and general nightlife. Accented in blue, as it should be, Hotel Le Bleu offers a clean and crisp modern design with complimentary breakfast and parking. For a quick drink and live music nearby, check out The Bell House. From $111. hotellebleu.com 370 Park Avenue

Union Hotel: Union is also located in the well-developed and charming neighborhood of Park Slope on the border of artsy Gowanus. The rooms are admittedly small, but they come with relatively comfortable beds, working air conditioning and a decent breakfast. Minimalist style makes the limited space less stuffy. The Brooklyn Flea, which is still pretty new to the area, is just 10 blocks from this hotel. Although this hotel sees its share of negative Yelp reviews, fans of the place can’t seem to stop raving about the comparatively low price. From $79.
unionhotelbrooklyn.com 611 Degraw Street

Eat and Drink

Tacos Matamoros: If you’re craving incredibly well-reviewed and unbelievably cheap tacos, grab the N or R train to 45th street in Brooklyn (or just take the N or D express to 36th street and walk to save time) to try out the food at Tacos Matamoros in Sunset Park, where you can still get a decent taco for $1.25. Types of tacos even include lengua and chorizo and they come garnished with cilantro, radish, chopped onion, lime and their own special sauce. While you’re in the area, check out the park in Sunset Park (mentioned below) and grab a coffee at the Green Fig Bakery Café, which has a great sandwich, baked goods selection and new owners, as of late 2012, who continue to enhance the place.
4508 5th Avenue

Foodswings: Located in Williamsburg, Foodswings is a saving grace for vegans and vegetarians as well as meat-eaters who aren’t afraid of soy. Unlike so many other animal-free restaurants everywhere, especially in NYC, Foodswings is good for budgeting vegetarians craving fast, comfort food staples. You won’t find a lot of fresh veggies here, but you will find a $3.50 vegan corn dog available even late at night. For some handmade imported goods ranging from books and housewares to jewelry, finger puppets and other little treasures, check out the nearby Fuego 718. foodswings.net 295 Grand Street

Christie’s Jamaican Patties: Christie’s Jamaican Patties, which is between the friendly and easily navigated neighborhoods of Park Slope and Prospect Heights, offers widely acclaimed patties with Caribbean flavor. For just $2 a pop, you can get patties in beef, veggie, chicken, meatloaf, coco bread, callaloo loaf and patty coco bread.
christiesjamaicanpatties.com 387 Flatbush Avenue

Budget Activities

Brooklyn Botanic Garden: If you’re feeling a little blue because of the lack of green in New York, visit Brooklyn’s Botanic Garden for a strong dose of nature’s beauty. Go on a Tuesday and your admission is free. Admission is also free on Saturdays between 10 a.m. and noon. The Garden has only just recovered from the substantial damage from Hurricane Sandy. The massive effort to restore the prized outdoor space established a strengthened sense of community. For some great drinks and affordable Mexican before or after the Garden, drop into one of my favorite places in Brooklyn, Chavela’s.
bbg.org 1000 Washington Avenue

Sunset Park: For one of the best free views of Manhattan, climb the stairs of Sunset Park and enjoy. With new restaurants, bars and other hang-out spots popping up all over the neighborhood, your journey to the park will help you fit a good walk in after eating and drinking at one of the new neighborhood hotspots. Get to Sunset Park by taking the N or D train (both express) to 36th street.
nycgovparks.org/parks/sunsetpark 41-44 streets

Brooklyn Crab: The newly opened Brooklyn Crab in Red Hook is a go-to spot for multilayered fun. With an 18-hole, mini-golf course and cornhole available for just a $5 entrance fee, Brooklyn Crab also offers a full menu featuring a wide range of crabs and other seafood.
brooklyncrab.com 24 Reed Street

Get Around

The Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) isn’t without its flaws, but it does the trick in getting you all around the New York City area via train and bus for a low fee. A single subway ride is $2.25. Although the MTA sadly doesn’t offer 1-Day Unlimited Ride MetroCards anymore (formerly referred to as a Fun Pass), you can still get a 7-Day Unlimited Pass for $29, which will save you tons in New York, even over the course of just a couple days if you plan on using the train a lot.

From LaGuardia airport, take the NYC Airporter, a shuttle bus that stops at Grand Central and Penn Station for $13 per trip. Manhattan can also be accessed through the M60 bus and several Q bus lines available from the airport stretch across Queens. For Brooklyn, it’s easiest to take one of the buses to a subway stop – the M60 stops at the Astoria Blvd. N/Q train station. Brooklyn and Manhattan can easily be accessed through the A from John F. Kennedy Airport while Queens can be accessed through the E or J/Z line. The NYC Airporter also makes trips from JFK every 30 minutes for $16.

Alternatively, you can pedal your way through your NYC trip. Bike rentals and bike shares are easy enough to come by in the city for around $40 a day. But more than anything else, New Yorkers take the cheap route and walk. Prepare to walk at least 5-10 miles a day if you’re going to be exploring the city and always wear comfortable shoes. Ladies: if you’re adamant on wearing stilettos, stash them in your purse until you get to your fancy destination.

Budget Tip

If you’re trying to save on expensive tickets to museums and art performances, by all means, pay attention to the art in the subways, parks and streets. Too often New Yorkers and travelers alike rush by these artists, dismissing them before giving them a chance. Don’t do that. Watch the boys breakdancing and risking their necks on your subway train. Listen to the musicians playing on the subway platform. Take a minute to look at the art all around you. Brooklyn is bursting with creative people who just want to share their talent. Allow them to share it with you, whether you’re in the park or the train, and do so with an open mind. The spare change or dollars you give to street and subway performers won’t leave much of a dent in your wallet, but it will help to keep them doing what they’re doing: offering their talent to anyone in New York interested enough to slow down.


Budget Guide 2013: San Francisco

by Laurel Miller on


San Francisco has a well-deserved reputation for being expensive, but that’s not to say you can’t enjoy it to the fullest on a budget. The joy of this compact, walkable city is that you don’t need your own transportation. Remember, though, that food is the soul of San Francisco. That means loads of pop-up restaurants, street food, food trucks, farmers markets and ethnic bites for cheap. The cultural and multi-ethnic focus of the city also means there’s no shortage of art exhibits, festivals and parades, many of which are inexpensive or free.

The number one thing to do on the cheap? Walk! San Francisco is one of the world’s great strolling cities, with dozens of hidden stairways, garden walks, parks, narrow streets and bay views. There are even books devoted to the subject. If you want more of a historical, architectural or culinary focus, spring for an affordable walking tour of specific neighborhoods. Tip: If your feet are tired from all that trudging, one of the city’s best deals is the 60-minute “foot” massage – which includes head, neck, shoulders, back, arms and legs – at Delightful Foot Massage on Polk Street. And yes, it’s a reputable place.

If the weather is cooperating, take the ferry from Pier 41 to Angel Island ($17) and hike to a picnic spot (everything you need for lunch is right there; more on that in a minute). Since this is San Francisco, though, there’s a distinct possibility of crappy weather. No problem – hit the city’s plethora of museums or the Exploratorium (the latter is a must if you have kids with you). Most have free days. Check here for listings.

The way locals prefer to pass the time? Eating! Great food of almost every imaginable ethnic persuasion is so readily available in San Francisco. You can graze your way through the day for less than the cost of a mid-range dinner. Not hungry? Linger over a cup of exceptional – try Four Barrel in The Mission, and don’t forget a Bacon-Maple-Apple donut for later – and a good book. Used bookstores abound nearby.

Hotels

San Francisco has loads of scuzzy motels, but there are plenty of great places to stay, from hostel to boutique, that won’t bankrupt you. Avoid the depressing youth hostels located on sketchy side streets off of Union Square, the main shopping district, and the sad little motels in the Tenderloin (although there are some pleasant exceptions). For a little bit extra, you can have a more secure, peaceful and cleaner place to lay your head. Tip: Lombard Street just off the Golden Gate Bridge/101 is jammed with motels, most of which are decent, and usually offer parking – a precious commodity.

Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel at Fort Mason: This ain’t no ordinary, janky hostel. Situated in the historic waterfront buildings at Fort Mason, this attractive property with a cool, vintage nautical vibe straddles the border of the Wharf and Marina (which has a glorious green for strolling, kite-flying and soccer playing, as well as a beach). Dorm beds and private rooms provide wallet-friendly accommodations for all types, from young backpackers to older couples. There’s a free continental breakfast; clean, attractive rooms and airy common areas; loads of discounts and activities on offer; and a location that can’t be beat for views and convenience. From $28. sfhostels.com/fishermans-wharf 240 Fort Mason

Casa Loma Hotel: This sweet, 48-room, Euro-style hotel is centrally located in Alamo Square. The clean, spare rooms have a Scandinavian, modern aesthetic that gives off a hip IKEA vibe. Close to the park and famed “Painted Ladies” houses (think: title sequence of “Full House”). From $65 standard/shared bath.
casalomahotelsf.com 610 Fillmore Street

Hotel Des Artes: This swank, modern art hotel, a block off Union Square, is decorated with the current works of local artists. The special “Painted Rooms” are all unique (literally, the walls are murals) by emerging global artists, while standard rooms feature washbasins with shared baths. Seekers of San Francisco’s modern Boho scene will feel right at home at this kaleidoscopic boutique property. From $79.
sfhoteldesarts.com 447 Bush Street

Hotel Diva: Describing itself as, “sexy, modern, and fresh from a facelift,” this Union Square boutique hotel reopened last June. And it’s indeed seductive, from the gray and white color scheme with violet accents, to the sleek modernist trappings. Think the “W” with SF flair: nightly sake hour, fitness center, dog friendly and on the fringe of the rapidly hipsterfying Tenderloin. From $140 deluxe Queen.
hoteldiva.com 440 Geary Boulevard

Eat and Drink

Farmers Markets: You’re in Northern California, birthplace of the modern local food movement. That means year-round farmers markets, the most famous of which is the massive, Saturday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on the Embarcadero (there are also smaller Tuesday and Thursday markets). Hit the market by 10 a.m., before the swarms arrive, and snack your way through the stalls. The Embarcadero itself has undergone a major renovation in recent years; it’s safe day or night, and populated with art installations and trendy cafes and restaurants. It’s also an ideal place for a long, bayside stroll or run on a sunny day.

The Ferry Building is a concentration of farmer- and artisan-owned shops featuring everything from estate olive oil to certified humane meat. Tip: Plan on buying a late breakfast or early lunch at the market. Top picks are the porchetta sandwich at Roli Roti’s stall (get there early or go hungry), anything from La Primavera’s stall, or a sit-down brunch at Boulette’s Larder in the Building (not served on Saturdays). If it’s oysters you want, hit Hog Island’s Raw Bar at the far end of the main hall. Then go stock up on edible souvenirs from Cowgirl Creamery, Miette (pastry), McEvoy Ranch and Recchiuti Confections.
ferrybuildingmarketplace.com One Ferry Building

Off the Grid: Every Friday from 5 to 8 p.m., a fleet of the city’s best food trucks arrives at Fort Mason, down in the Marina. Up to 40 sweet and savory vendors may appear on a given night, featuring street food as creative, multi-culti and adventurous as only San Francisco would have it. There’s music, views of the bay, Golden Gate and Alcatraz, and a seriously local vibe – this isn’t a tourist attraction. It’s simply a raucous, joyous, festival of flavor, San Fran-style. offthegridsf.com

Go Ethnic: Between the Asian restaurants of the Sunset and Richmond Districts (locals know better than to eat in Chinatown) to the diverse ethnic dives of the Tenderloin, you can indulge your inner glutton for less than a ten-spot. Best of all, adventurous eaters have almost every style of cuisine to choose from, as well as menus that boast authenticity (frog legs or sea cucumber, anyone?) Some of the best: Brother’s Korean and King of Thai Noodle on Clement Street (I don’t know why, but this is the only location that does it for me); Wing Lee Bakery and Burma SuperStar (Inner Richmond); and Shalimar, Pakwan, Turtle Tower and Osha Thai (Tenderloin).

The Mission: If you love Latin flavors, you won’t need to venture beyond this Hispanic neighborhood, where you’ll find excellent everything, from El Salvadorean to Peruvian. But the Mission is also the newest hipster ‘hood for craft foods, from coffee and chocolate (such as Dandelion’s “bar to bean” aesthetic) to modern Korean food. Check out the latter at Namu Gaji, or the insane happy hour deals at Wo Hing General Store ($6 craft cocktails to die for, and $5 for a bamboo steamer of shiu mai or plate of pork dumplings, 5:30 -7 p.m., daily). Whatever you do, don’t miss out on the baked goods at Craftsmen & Wolves (yes, you’ll pay $7 for a muffin, but it will have a soft-boiled egg encased within, as well as cheesy, hammy bits and it will fill you up for hours) or Tartine Bakery. Get there early to avoid a wait, and let go of guilt. One look in the pastry case, and you’ll understand.

Get Around

If walking isn’t an option, the bus, MUNI, will get you anywhere you need to go. Sure, it’s a crowded mobile petri dish and full of freaks, but do as the locals do. San Francisco is an easy city to navigate, since it really is a giant grid. Google maps makes things a snap on your phone or computer.

There are also the cable cars, which are just $6 a pop and always fun (they may not admit it, but locals love them, too), the trolley down in the Embarcadero/Market Street area, and BART, which covers the East Bay. It’s also the fastest, easiest way to traverse the Downtown, Financial and Mission districts of the city; otherwise the bus is your cheapest bet.

Budget Tip

One way to save a chunk of cash is to take BART to and from the airport (it services both SFO and Oakland). It will run you around $8, instead of a $50 cab ride, or $17 for a shared van, which can take well over an hour if you’re not the first drop-off. Even if you’re too far to hoof it to your hotel from the BART station, you’ll still save time and money, unless you’re staying out in the hinterlands of the city.

[Photo credit: Flickr user Trodel]

Photo Gallery: Why Are These Moroccan Goats Climbing Trees?

by Laurel Miller on

Argan oil has been a beauty buzzword for the last several years. Pressed from the nuts of the Moroccan argan tree, this light, golden oil has significant anti-inflammatory properties, and is found in countless hair and skin care products. Argan oil is also considered a specialty/health food product, due to its clean, nutty flavor and high levels of linoleic acid and nutrients (seriously, try it in your next vinaigrette or drizzled on soup).

What most people don’t realize is how the oil is harvested. For anyone who’s spent time traveling in rural northern Morocco, the sight of goats in argan trees, like so many magpies, isn’t uncommon. According to the Daily Mail, however, the native Tamri goats are actually part of what’s become a highly profitable cottage industry.

The animals feast upon the argan berries, and the fruit and pulp are absorbed into their digestive tracts. Berber women then collect their droppings, and remove the remaining nuts, from which the oil is then extracted. Think of it as the kopi luwak of the beauty industry.

Unfortunately, the global demand for argan oil is so great, the tree population is thought to be half of what it was 50 years ago, reports the Daily Mail. Conservationists are now pleading with herders to keep their goats out of the trees, so the berries can fall to the ground and reseed.

Despite the environmental complications, there’s just something about goats in trees that’s irresistible. Check out the gallery for a whimsical tour of Morocco’s acrobatic, aerial caprines.

[Photo credit: Flickr user greenzowie”>greenzowie]

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