Banos: Ecuador’s Top Adventure Destination

If you’re the type of traveler who loves extreme adventure and being active, you’ll love Baños, Ecuador. Located about three hours south of Quito, Baños is a small but lively town surrounded by mountains and lush greenery. There are dozens of tour agencies lining the streets, although I’d recommend using a highly reputable company like Geotours or Rainforestur. Some of the adventures you’ll be able to partake in include:

Taking A Trip Into The Amazon Jungle

From Baños, you’ll be able to do one day or multiple day excursions into the Amazon Jungle. The tours usually begin with a trip to a monkey sanctuary. Next, you’ll visit an indigenous community to get your face painted with fruit, drink Chicha, shoot dart guns and learn about the culture. Jungle hikes, canoe rides, waterfall swims and night treks encompass the rest of the tour. You’ll see unique plants, like the Devil’s Penis, which squirts a clear liquid used to enlarge the manhood of indigenous men, as well as wildlife like anacondas, tree frogs, exotic birds and enormous spiders.Biking The “Waterfalls Route”

I recommend getting your bike from Caroline’s Tours on Martinez Street. You can get a basic bike all day for $5, or upgrade to the more comfortable one for $10. She’ll give you a map, and a fanny pack filled with pumps, locks and spare tubes. The “Waterfalls Route” takes about two hours, including stops at viewpoints and hikes to the falls. You’ll see:

  • Agoyan- At 200 feet, it’s the highest waterfall in the Ecuadorian Andes.
  • Manto de la Novia- Literally meaning “the bride’s veil,” this waterfall has a distinct white color, and is 131 feet high.
  • Pailon del Diablo (shown above)- This is the second biggest waterfall in Ecuador, and is thought to be the most interesting one on the route.
  • Machay- This beautiful waterfall includes a challenging hike to get to and from its viewpoint. It’s popular for swimming, so bring your bathing suit.

You can take the bus back to Baños for $1 from Machay.

Going Canyoning

If you enjoy jumping from rock to rock and repelling down gorges, Baños offers canyoning excursions each day. You’ll descend numerous waterfalls, some extremely steep, along the Rio Blanco, while immersing yourself in the lush cloud forest. Your adrenaline will be pumping, as at times you’ll be dropping yourself 148 feet.

Hiking To Various Viewpoints

In Baños, there are two main viewpoint hikes: Bellavista and The Virgin. They’re both very straightforward, so don’t worry about getting lost. Bellavista takes you to a giant cross overlooking the city, and you’ll be able to continue the hike on the Runtun trail to see small villages and the Tungurahua Volcano. Just be sure to carry rocks, as dogs from the villages can get nasty. The trek to The Virgin takes you up hundreds of steps to an enormous Virgin Mary statue, for an all-encompassing look of Baños.

Rafting On The Pastaza River

Baños is a great place to enjoy white-water rafting. Depending on water levels that day, rapids can vary from class two to five. The rivers in Ecuador are warm and tropical, and you’ll even get the chance to journey through the lush flora and fauna of the Amazon Jungle.

Zip Lining And Bungee Jumping

The city is well known for its aerial adventures, like zip lining/canopy and bungee jumping. For the zip line, you’ll be strapped to a high wire, and will fly above the cloud forest. Moreover, bungee jumping is $20 or less, and allows you to jump off a bridge and swing like a pendulum. No need to book in advance, as you’ll be able to get off your bike and jump along the “Waterfall Route.”

Hiking And Biking Tungurahua Volcano

A hiking and biking excursion on this 16,480-foot active volcano is my top pick for the adventurous in Baños. I only recommend doing this thrilling excursion if it’s a clear day out, as the views awarded from this volcano are priceless. The day begins at 9:00 a.m., when a van will take you to the starting point. Then, you’ll hike up three hours to the refugio for excellent views of surrounding mountains, valleys and rivers, before cycling downhill at rapid speed. Once you get to the bottom, you’ll also bike your way back to Baños.

Eating Guinea Pig For A Cheap Price

Called cuy, eating this delicacy is usually an expensive culinary adventure. However, if you walk around near the main square, you’ll be able to find street food vendors cooking it for an affordable price. For example, I was able to buy a single serving with potatoes and vegetables for $3.50. While eating guinea pig may sound scary, it tastes a lot like greasy, fatty chicken.

Paragliding

Paragliding, which involves soaring through the air via a parachute, is a popular activity in Baños. Additionally, it’s a great way to take in views of the entire region. Most paragliding tours take off from Niton Mountain, and you’ll see mountains, volcanoes and rivers as you soar through the air like a bird.

Vagabond Tales: The Drunken Art Of Nicaraguan Bull Riding

Nicaragua’s Isla de Ometepe is an island of many things.

It’s the highest lake island in the entire world, and it has the most perfectly conical shaped mountain in all of Central America. Seeing as it’s set in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, it’s home to the world’s only freshwater sharks.

Isla de Ometepe is volcanic, home to two volcanoes – Volcán Concepción and Volcán Maderas – the former of which experienced a violent eruption in 2010. Isla de Ometepe is also historic, with Nahua and Niquirano Indian artifacts dating back to 300 B.C. During colonial times, Caribbean pirates plied its waters, and lawless outposts were established on its shores.

It is a tourist destination, a site of archeological importance and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Isla de Ometepe is also poor. Nicaragua is the second poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere behind Haiti, and in few places is this more apparent than on the rural village roads far removed from the main city centers of Moyogalpa and Altagracia. Despite being part of the same country, the poverty of Ometepe is a different type than in the national capital of Managua. The tent cities of the urban center are instead replaced by one-room thatched houses where three generations of family members all exist beneath the same roof. Bananas are gathered, fish are attained, piles of moist grass smolder to deter the mosquitos, the heat swelters and time lurches on.

Lastly, as is often the case with rural and agricultural outposts, Isla de Ometepe is also home to cowboys, although the rodeos in this part of the world are a loosely organized and drunken affair. I know this because I once stumbled into one.Having hired rickety, one-speed bikes from a Playa Santa Domingo guesthouse, my wife and I pedaled off down a dirt road at the base of Volcán Maderas. Bouncing down the dusty dirt track we waved at hordes of scampering schoolchildren as howler monkeys growled and danced in the treetops. One of the best ways to interact with local cultures, I have found, and a way to truly put a finger on the pulse of a destination, is simply to hire a bicycle, pedal without a plan and sit back and observe.

Having passed donkeys laden with banana leaves and elderly grandmothers harvesting large piles of sticks, a curious collection of people was beginning to become visible a half-mile down the dirt road. Approaching closer, the rhythmic thump of a bass emanating from an old speaker indicated what appeared to be some sort of festival.

Curiosity piqued – I decided to inquire as to why exactly a couple hundred local villagers had all gathered at this seemingly nondescript venue down a dirt road in the forest.

“Permiso,” I gently asked of a passing woman – her mestizo stature amounting to no taller than 4 feet 10 inches – ¿Por qué toda la gente? What’s with all the people?

“Está un rodeo“.

A rodeo. Of course it was. We had stumbled upon a rural Nicaraguan rodeo, and common courtesy dictates that when you happen upon a rodeo on a Saturday afternoon bike ride on Isla de Ometepe, you are ultimately obliged to stop in. Entry was $1, and the price of beers the same. There was no way this wasn’t going to happen.

Leaving our bikes with a 12-year-old boy we found manning the concession stand, I grabbed a lukewarm beer and ambled my way through the shoddily constructed grandstand. Bleacher style seating constructed of wood of dubious strength and safety, all the seats faced into a dirt clearing presumably meant to be the rodeo arena. Collections of men in faded blue jeans mingled inside of the ring, and a few isolated cows cohabited the arena along with them, their visible ribs a testament to the general level of poverty.

As thirty minutes faded into three beers, I began to wonder as to when the action was going to take place. The roping, the barrel racing, the bucking broncos and the clowns diving into oversized barrels. Thus far, the only action we had been privy to was a number of wildly intoxicated gentlemen periodically attempting to sit on top of a motionless cow and subsequently be carried over the side by their own inebriated momentum. Whenever this happened, it drew a slight yet noticeable reaction from the crowd.

Wondering if perhaps we had missed the main event, I inquired of the barefoot, elderly woman standing next to me when the rodeo was slated to start.

“This is the rodeo,” she replied with a deadpan stare. “This man, right there, it’s now his turn”.

Shifting my attention towards her outwardly stretched index finger, I watched as a thickly mustachioed caballero in a long-sleeve, olive colored work shirt approached a group of stationary bovines. Slapping his friend on the back, he proceeded to take a swig out of a bottle that didn’t quite look like rum, but sure didn’t look like water, and then drag his feet lazily over towards the cow. Much like the other before him, he nearly tripped and fell into the cow, eventually threw a leg over its visible spine, and then immediately slipped and fell off the other side, his face landing teeth down in the dirt.

The crowd cheered.

Well, some of the crowd – a greater number was paying attention to a fracas back by the entry way, which involved a group of children chasing a chicken that had gone rogue. This, it appeared, was just another Isla de Ometepe Saturday afternoon, the melody from the speakers and the howler monkeys in the trees providing the soundtrack to a rural Nicaraguan rodeo with bull riding like you’ve never seen before.

Want more travel stories? Read the rest of the “Vagabond Tales“ over here.

[Image credit: permanently scatterbrained on Flickr]

How to Choose the Best Travel Backpack

As someone who has backpacked numerous countries, I often have people ask me what to look for in a backpack. The pack you choose will have a big impact on the comfort and success of your trip. To help you make the right choice, use this guide on how to choose the perfect backpack for traveling.

Size Matters

For those who think they can just walk into the nearest sporting goods store and choose whichever pack looks the nicest, you will probably end up being very uncomfortable on your trip. The right pack should complement your torso length and sit snugly on your hips. Instead of measuring the length of your entire body, focus on the area from your shoulders to your hipbones. Likewise, you’ll need to choose the appropriate capacity of the bag. While REI suggests choosing a pack that’s 80 liters or more for an extended trip, I don’t think this is necessary unless you’ll be hiking and camping for two weeks or longer. Most of the backpackers I know, myself included, use packs that are about 55 liters for extended traveling, which is plenty of space unless you’re a heavy packer.

Don’t Be Cheap

I’m not saying the most expensive backpack is necessarily the best; however, having a good backpack can make or break your trip. If your backpack is uncomfortable, you’ll have a difficult time enjoying yourself. I’d recommend going to a passionate outfitter, like REI, where knowledgeable staff can help you choose the perfect pack. It’s a good idea before purchasing to walk around with rocks in the backpack to test it out. And, if the more expensive pack feels more comfortable, buy it.

Top Loading vs. Panel Loading

Top loading and panel loading refer to how you will pack and unpack your belongings. While top loading packs, not surprisingly, make use of the top of the backpack, panel loading makes use of the sides. Both have pros and cons, so it’s really about your preferences. Top loading can be a hassle. Every time you need to get something that’s not on the top of the bag, you’ll need to unload your belongings until you find it. However, the inside usually features a waterproof liner, which isn’t usually the case with panel loading bags. Likewise, panel loading tends to add weight to the pack, and the zippers are more likely to break off. If you can’t make a decision, one good backpack to consider is the REI Mars Pack, which offers top loading and a zippered front panel opening, giving you the best of both worlds.

Padded Straps

I would not recommend purchasing a backpack without a padded hip belt and shoulder straps. The padded hip belt helps to distribute the weight in your pack more evenly, while also giving you more support. Likewise, padded shoulder straps allow for less pressure on your shoulders and lower back.

Numerous Compartments

It can be difficult to stay organized when backpacking, especially for an extended period of time. Having a backpack with numerous compartments can help you keep related items together within easy reach. For example, I use a Gelert Wilderness 55, which allows me to separate my toiletries, tank tops, undergarments, socks, medications and thin shirts in the bag’s extra pouches. Because of this, I never have to unload my backpack to get to these items.

Contoured Back

Make sure the backpack you choose has a contoured back. Not only is this more comfortable, as it fits with your natural arch, it also creates a space to allow for air to flow through. One of the biggest obstacles with backpacking is, because the pack sits on your back with a lot of extra weight, you start to sweat more than usual. Some packs will even say on the back if they have a featured cooling design.

Internal vs. External Frame

There are two types of frames when it comes to backpacks, an internal frame and an external frame. Basically, an internal frame supports the backpack from the inside, while the external frame does so from the outside. In my opinion, internal frames are a lot more logical. Not only do they help to effectively place your weight on your hips, they tend to have a slimmer shape for easier maneuverability. They tend to be more comfortable, lighter, easier to carry and more aesthetically pleasing. External frame bags were the first type of backpack, and although internal frames are now an option, there are still those who enjoy using the old school, more rugged method.

Extra Features

This is the most fun part of choosing a backpack. Each backpack is unique in its own way due to the extra features you’ll be able to get. Some of these include secret compartments, camel backs, compression straps, adjustable torsos, sleeping bag storage, bite valve shut-off switches and much more. Think about what exactly you want your backpack to be capable of doing – for example, keeping you really organized or keeping your luggage dry – and then go from there.

Recommendations

There are myriad great backpacks out there, but some of my favorites include:

  • REI Mars Pack– This pack was built to handle heavy loads during extended trips. Some features include a hip belt webbing system, foam padded back panel, a “rip and stick” torso adjustment and dual-openings.
  • Gregory Z65 Pack– Good for lightweight multiday trips, and includes features like an adjustable hip belt, waterproof compartments and a hydration compatible design.
  • ALPS Mountaineering Denali 5500 Pack– This 90-liter backpack is good for those who will be doing rugged trekking, or have a lot they need to pack. A few of the features include an extendable lid and cinching collar, a removable top that doubles as a day pack and moisture-wicking fabric to help cool you down.

[images via Haolenate, Kurt Forstner, Matthew D. Lutze]

Thailand Moves From Squat To Western-Style Toilets

For tourists who live in fear of having to use the toilet while touring Thailand, the country has announced official plans to switch over to Western-style facilities.

While the goal of the transition is to help the country’s aging population, the new toilets will no doubt help tourism, as many Westerners find it hard to navigate the in-ground head. The toilets, which are basically holes in the ground, are said to be very hygienic; however, a bit of agility is necessary to successfully do your business.

Hopefully, the switch will also include putting toilet paper in the restrooms, as well.

And, if you happen to find yourself in a venue that hasn’t yet made the switch, you can click here for tips on how to use a squat toilet.

[Image via seamusiv]

Airline Trends: Fliers To Be Charged Extra For Window Seats

While you can usually purchase your flight ticket and then reserve any seat you’d like in your section, airlines are beginning to charge extra for window seats. Certain airlines, like Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, Frontier, Spirit and Allegiant, have already implemented the “preferred seating” fees, charging $29 each way on domestic flights in the U.S. and $59 on international flights in the front section of the plane.

Aside for having to spend extra money, doing this also creates a problem for passengers who want to sit with their family and friends. By setting aside these more desirable seats, the airlines are making it difficult for people traveling together to always be seated near one another. Not surprisingly, these fees are part of a bigger plan to make up for rising fuel charges by adding fees to things that passengers are used to having included, like pillows, blankets, movies and beverages.

Of course, this isn’t how the airlines are spinning it. Katie Hulme, a spokesperson for Delta, explained to CNN, “Offering preferred seats for sale to all Delta passengers means that we are offering different seat selection options to enable more passengers to travel in their seat of choice.”

What do you think of preferred seating charges?

[photo via VirtualErn]