I will do little to distract from the beauty of this piece filmed throughout South America but to say that this is maybe the best travel video I’ve seen in the last year. It’s a combination of several things — the narrative is rich and well timed, the landscapes are beautiful and lush — but I think that the most important thing is the way in which it appeals to the traveler. In a way, we’re all looking for some sort of solution when we travel, and the joy and energy in this production seems to hint that there’s actually an answer somewhere out there. Personally, I’ll take this as justification to keep searching.
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An off-the-beaten path itinerary for southern China
When planning my trip through China one summer, I decided that I wanted to stay out of the well-known cities and explore smaller villages and lesser known areas where I could find less tourist traps and more cultural fare. While Beijing and Shanghai are both excellent cities to visit, here is an itinerary that will take you off the radar and help you discover nature, minority villages, Chinese traditions, and more. To make planning easier for myself I did this trip through Intrepid Travel, but you can also recreate it for yourself.
First stop: Hua Shan, Ning Ming County
Before coming to China I had been traveling through Vietnam and had entered the country from the Lang Son Province into Guangxi, China. From there you can catch a train or bus via Pingxiang to the mountainous village of Hua Shan, which is located in Guangxi. The journey takes about 2-3 hours.
There is a lot to be experienced in peaceful Hua Shan, which is miles away from civilization, located in the heart of mountains, valleys, forests, and near the Dong and Zhuang minority village. I stayed at a family-run guesthouse called Butterfly Valley, which felt more like a homestay than a hotel, as the family would cook for my group, take us on hikes, and end each night playing Mahjong and singing kareoke with us. It also helps to learn a bit of Chinese as not everyone in the area speaks English.
Take a walk through the countryside and notice the myriad plants and crops, like the gum leaves that locals use to cure a stuffy nose and the various edibles like corn, pumpkin, potatoes, and rice fields. Make sure to visit the minority village, which is dominated by wooden and thatched houses and livestock running around. It’s interesting to hear and see the music, dance, and art of the people of the community who are, for the most part, quite friendly and were happy to talk to me via my translator. In fact, the people in Hua Shan in general were very friendly and excited to talk to me. Many of the young girls knew basic English and even asked me to hangout with them to help them practice their language skills. Hiking in the area is also a fun activity, and there are many trails that allow you to explore the various flora and fauna of the area. As the region is completely rural you can literally just wander towards the trees and mountains to find your own paths. If you’d like to see indigenous art, boat trips go out to Mount Huashan where a vivid rock painting of various types of people, animals, and symbols is located. The painting is about 725 wide and 131 feet high, making it a bit of a mystery how it was created.On to Liuzhou
From Ning Ming we took a bus to Liuzhou via Nanning. While Liuzhou is a city, I still did not see many tourists and it makes for a nice break after spending time in the middle of nowhere. I stayed at the Nanjiang Hotel, which was actually like an everyday hotel (unlike many of the other accommodations on this itinerary). My favorite part about the property was their on-site tea room, where I spent a lot of time ordering authentic Chinese teas and playing Mahjong with anyone who would play, which is really easy in China. One guy even saw me sitting with tea and cards through the hotel window and came in to see if I would play with him.
My favorite part about this city was the YuFeng Shan (Fish Peak Mountain), which looks like an upright fish, and the park it’s located in, YuFeng Gongyuan (Fish Peak Park). There is also Ma’an Shan (Horse Saddle Mountain) adjacent. Walking through the park, you’ll see interesting architecture (shown above), lakes, gardens, and locals enjoying various leisure activities like dancing, Tai Chi, smoking, playing Mahjong, and chess. I spent hours just strolling around the different park paths, people watching and interacting with locals (one woman even tried to get me to join in on her dance group!). I hiked to the top of Fish Peak Mountain which is a great way to get a view of the entire city. There’s also Sanjie Rock Cave on the way up, which is interesting to visit to see the carvings, statues, and lifelike figures that tell the tale of Liu Sanjie, a popular Chinese love story.
From Liuzhhou, we boarded a train to Sanjiang and then caught a bus to Chengyang Village. I stayed at the Long Feng Hotel in the Bridge Scenic District, which was a cozy, wooden guesthouse run by a friendly family. They have a bar and restaurant with picnic tables on the main floor, and you can order delicious fruit shakes and Asian specialties. The Chengyang Village is extremely scenic, and it can be worth it to hire a guide to help you translate what people are saying as well as give you historical and cultural information. I would recommend doing a tour of the village and checking out the Wind-and-Rain Bridge, which has 5 pavilions, 19 verandas, 4 spans, 3 piers, and 3 floors constructed without the use of nails. You can buy handicrafts from locals, view art and sculpture, and even have your name inscribed on the bridge for Y10 (less than $2). Moreover, if you’re with a guide who can translate make sure to visit the village Drum Room, which is where the local men hangout to smoke, talk, and play cards. When I visited they were really excited to meet me, and through a translator asked me a lot of questions about where I was from. There is also a Dong Minority Cultural Show (shown above) everyday in the center of the village near the outdoor stage at 10:30AM and 3:30PM. It was really interesting to see the bright and ornate costumes and literally be a part of traditional songs and dances, as you will get called up to take part. Hiking up the nearby mountains is also a great way to spend time and will give you breathtaking views of the entire village and countryside.
Continuing to Ping’an and the Longji Rice Terraces
From Chengyang, you’ll be able to take a bus to Longsheng and then a local bus to Ping’an. While the bus drops you off right outside the village, you’ll need to hike passed a row of handicraft and food market stalls before making your ascent up a steep rock quarry-like mountain to get to where the accommodations are. We stayed at the Li Qing Guesthouse, a traditional wooden guesthouse run by two sisters, Yuan Li and Yuan Qing, and their husbands. The hotel had a western toilet, as well as a menu that consisted of Western favorites and Asian fare. My favorite part about the accommodation, however, was the view from my bedroom window of the unique terraced countryside. Through the hotel the group was able to hire a guide to take us on a tour of the Longji Rice Terraces as well carry our backpacks (only Y100 for 3 bags, about $16), as we were hiking for five hours to the next town we would be staying in, Dazhai. “Longji” literally means “Dragon’s Backbone” as the rice terraces appear to be dragon’s scales with the summit resembling the backbone. The effect is almost unworldly as hills and mountains swirl about in a natural kind of staircase in order to preserve water, which rice needs a lot of to grow. Along the way you’ll see get to see traditional homes as well as the Yao and Zhuang minority women working in the fields. When it got to be around lunch time, our group actually got the chance to stop at one of the homes and have a home cooked meal which was picked for us from the on-site crops when we got there. Once we got to Dazhai, we stayed in the Yue Bing Guesthouse.
From Dazhai you’ll have to walk about 45 minutes to the bus station to catch a bus to Yangshuo via Guilin. Yangshuo is a lot more touristy then the small villages discussed previously, but still has a lot to offer the traveler looking for a unique Chinese experience. My group stayed at the Morning Sun Hotel, which puts you in the center of town, equal distance from the Western-inspired streets and the more authentic Chinese area. One activity I highly recommend is a bike tour with Roy, who also runs a language school. Roy can take you to visit the school and will even allow you to teach a class if you’re interested. If not, you can simply enjoy being lead on a scenic bike tour through the city as well as the countryside and rice fields. He’s also a really down to Earth guy and I found myself having really honest and open discussions with him about life in China vs. life in the United States. Moreover, rafting down the River Li, which you can do with Roy or on your own, is a relaxing way to see the scenery while also viewing wildlife. The hotel can also set you up with an instructor who will take you down to the local park and give you private Tai Chi lessons. It took me a little while to get comfortable with doing the moves out in the open, but in China people seem to do everything in outdoor spaces from practicing martial arts to dancing and singing, so it didn’t take long.
For more information on doing this itinerary with Intrepid Travel, click here.
Detroit to Seattle by highway in five minutes
When I was in high school and college, some of my fondest experiences were the road trips that I used to take with my friend Chris. On one, we drove from Ann Arbor into Ontario to see the Weakerthans at the Trasheteria in Guelph and then moved onward to Toronto and our favorite hostel in Kensington Market.
Trips like this are the foundation on which I built my travel career, and now that I’m older and living in the city I rarely spend time in the car.
As for Chris, he just took up a job in Seattle and is still hitting the pavement hard. The above video documents his journey from Detroit all the way to Washington as he made his final move, all composed of still frames over the 2,300 miles. Keep on driving, my friend.
EuroCheapo launches budget travel guides for Switzerland
While Switzerland is not usually thought of as a budget-friendly destination, there are actually many worthwhile hotels, sights, and restaurants that won’t cost you a fortune. To help travelers navigate their way around this usually costly country, EuroCheapo has launched budget travel guides for the cities of Zurich and Geneva, marking their first Swiss guides on the site. These guides will not only feature accommodation recommendations and photographs from the editors themselves, but also insider tips on how to explore these cities without breaking the bank.
Says EuroCheapo’s founder and editor-in-chief, Tom Meyers, “While it’s certainly easy to overspend in Geneva and Zurich, our editors have uncovered many simple ways to make visiting more affordable. Both cities offer delightful inexpensive hotels that will keep your trip budget in check.”
EuroCheapo is a free budget travel guide for Europe. To check out the brand new Swiss guides as well as money-saving guides for other European cities, click here.
Vagabond Tales: Swimming with elephants in Thailand
Anyone who has visited Thailand will recognize the word Chang.
The national beer of Thailand, the over sized green bottles are found everywhere from the markets of Chiang Mai to the bars of Bangkok’s Khao San Road. In the Thai language, however, Chang does not mean beer. It means elephant. Hence the ornately drawn white elephant placed prominently on the bottle.
Another Thai word you may be familiar with is the word koh (also spelled ko). Ask anyone who just returned from Thailand about their trip, and they’ll rattle the word off as if they’re trying to remove a hairball.
“Oh the trip was great. We visited Koh Pha Ngan, Koh Lanta, Koh Mak, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Samui” etc.
Koh, as it turns out, is not the Thai word for hairball, but rather, it is the Thai word for island.
Put the two together, Koh and Chang, and what you are left with is Elephant Island, a nod to the fact that when viewed from the sea, the island appears to have the same profile as an elephant lying down. Therefore, it should come as little surprise that the lush and mountainous island of Koh Chang is one of Thailand’s premier locations for riding elephants.
Though there are many places around the world where you can rest on top of a moving pachyderm, what’s unique about Koh Chang is that it’s the first place I’ve seen where you don’t just get to ride on top of an elephant, but you go swimming with it as well.
Wait. Swimming with an elephant? This sounds dangerous. They’re the largest living land mammal on planet Earth, and you want to go jump into a watering hole with them?Though the idea of a four ton animal treading water in the first place is tough to wrap your head around, there are few experiences more surreal than straddling the neck of a leathery, hairy beast, your hands firmly clinging to a rope which is tenuously wrapped around the elephant’s underbelly, and to have the four-legged monstrosity completely disappear into a puddle of deep brown water.
Of course, these elephants are exceptionally well trained, but nevertheless, it all happens so fast. In one moment you are firmly on dry land bouncing along through the dripping green foliage of the jungle, and in the next you find yourself waist deep in a brown lake straddling one of the largest creatures on Earth which has, suddenly, completely disappeared.
This experience is of course coupled with the fact that an elephant is equipped with a fire hose on its face. Capable of drawing up to four gallons of water into its long, serpentine snout, the elephant will then deposit the massive reservoir of elephant boogers where ever he happens to see fit. The most typical place for it to unleash its hose is its own back in an effort to cool itself down. If you happen to be sitting on the elephants back, however…
Luckily I avoided the experience of being drenched with elephant snot, but this was perhaps my biggest fear going into the expedition. Not falling into the water and getting kicked in the face like any normal person might be wary of, but of being briskly trumpeted by a dual-nostrilled cannon at a speed of about 95 knots.
“She must like you” claimed the mahout, an Indian word for a man in charge of driving the domesticated elephants.
“She usually brings most people back with their hair dripping wet.”
Still seated bareback on top of the gray animal, I trembled with excitement at what had just taken place. Potentially unaware that I was even still sitting on top of her, for her part she had moved on to flapping her small ears and chewing on a soaking wet piece of sugar cane.
This may sound crazy, but if you ever travel to Thailand, do yourself a favor and go swimming with an elephant. A package deal of a mechanical bull, a zoo, and a waterpark, it’s an experience you assuredly will never forget.
Read more of the Vagabond Tales here.