GadlingTV’s Travel Talk, episode 10 – Click above to watch video after the jump
Travel Talk has hit double digits!! To celebrate, we have an incredible lineup of adventures from San Diego, California – including a short dash over the border to Tijuana, Mexico!
This week we talk about Kim Jong-Il as a fashion icon, a new great way to hail a cab in NYC, and share a book that covers how to travel by freight ship! We have an answer in the debate of whether or not sarcasm exists in every culture, and of course we’ll show you pictures of the disruptive Eyjafjallajökull (Icelandic Volcano) that has shut down flights throughout Europe this week.
Stick with us as we try paragliding for the first time, learn how to brew beer from the masters at Stone Brewery, and do our best to surf the Wave House’s Bruticus Maximus. We’ll also take a peek onboard the USS Midway and show you how tourism has affected Tijuana in the past 5 years. Enjoy!
If you have any questions or comments about Travel Talk, you can email us at talk AT gadling DOT com.
I’m sitting at Berkeley’s Caffe Strada on a sun-washed April morning, surrounded by the clamor of students and espresso machines. In front of me, a trio of young men is conferring earnestly in Korean and English over biology textbooks; to my right two women — one clearly American, the other fervently French — are planning their weekend en francais; and behind me what must be a hot-button seminar is unfolding in a flurry of flying hands and impassioned outbursts in Spanish and Ingles.
A week ago I sat at this same table, cloudy and clouded, recalling an afternoon almost a decade before when I stood on a hilltop in Umm Qais, Jordan, looking out over Syria, Israel, the Golan Heights, Lebanon, the Jordan Valley and the Sea of Galilee. I remembered thinking how indistinguishably the landscape of one country flowed into the other, and how confounding it was that people raised in such similar environments, confronting so many of the same challenges of soil and climate, could be so intractably divided.
“Intractable divisions,” I wrote in my journal, “delineate our world still.”
I recalled a scheme I’d dreamed up a few years ago: I’d called it The 1000 Dinners Project. The idea was that we would bring 500 families from Iran to the United States and 500 families from the U.S. to Iran. Each family would spend the day with a host family, going to the market to select the food for the evening’s dinner, then preparing that dinner in the host family’s home and finally sitting down together to enjoy it.During the course of the day they would learn about the ingredients and routines of each other’s everyday lives; they’d share concerns and dreams and hopefully little jokes as well. And slowly, slivering cracks would appear in the stereotyped images each had brought to their encounter, and by the end of the day they would have formed a bond, however frail and fledgling, with someone who had once been branded the “enemy.” And some of them, at least, would return to their villages and towns and tell their friends, relatives and neighbors that those foreign people were not so foreign after all, and seeds of tolerance and peace would be planted.
Of course, it was impractically hard to organize and fund this dream, and it fell by the way.
But on a deeper level, that dream has inspired and defined my life as a traveler and as a travel writer. For the past quarter-century I have been dedicated to the proposition that travel seeds understanding, and that understanding nurtures open-mindedness and compassion — and that these pave the pathway to peace and progress. As a wandering pilgrim, I have come to worship in the church of insatiable inquiry and unconditioned kindness.
Still, last week I looked at the world’s headlines and wondered: Are we really learning anything? Are we any closer to the catechism of kindness than before?
Then in the ensuing days my wife and I attended the screening in Berkeley of a wondrously moving documentary called The Miracle of the Colored Light, by Japanese filmmaker Fumiko Irie; Irie-san had flown from Japan to attend the screening and graciously opened her heart to the audience afterwards, answering questions in Japanese and English. David Farley flew to Oakland from New York and we dined a block from my house in culinary Italy, savoring authentic salumi, porchetta and arancini at a corner eatery called Adesso. I toured Canada in San Francisco at a conference with more than 100 enthusiastic travel folks who had convened to convey the riches of their country, from Newfoundland to the Yukon. I edited dispatches that took me to France and Nepal, and read tales of food adventures sent from Syria, Mexico, the Netherlands, Morocco, the Philippines, Sweden, Cambodia, Ethiopia, Japan, Wales, and the Micronesian island of Fais. And I taught a writing workshop where students were shaping life-changing journeys in Brazil, India, Germany, and other far-flung places.
Now I sit at the Strada reflecting on this gloriously global week and realize, once again, that the world is interwoven all around and through me in a way that would have been unimaginable even a half-century ago. I look around this sunny cafe and see tangible evidence that the world is growing closer. It’s just that when change is tectonic, molecular, you have to be attuned to the slightest movements.
I open my journal and write: “Hard as it sometimes may be to discern from the headlines, I have to believe that humanity is evolving, plodding tortoise-like across the Galapagos of time, toward some enlightened end. Step by step, we lumber, a moving film here, a bridging encounter there, seeds of goodwill and understanding borne around the globe. The end is not in sight, but on this April day, I’ve found renewal of spirit to keep plodding on the way.”
Farmers’ markets are not only a great way to sample a community’s natural bounty, they’re also a unique setting to experience its culture. While each farmers’ market is different, a really good farmers’ market brings a sense of community to the cities and municipalities where they operate. Wondering where you can experience some of the freshest produce, tastiest snacks and friendliest people across the country? Check out our picks for 16 of our favorites below.
Saint Louis – Soulard Farmer’s Market
The Soulard Farmers Market began in St. Louis in 1779, making it the oldest continuously operating farmers market west of the Mississippi. In addition to the fresh fruit, produce, baked goods and flowers, the market includes a craft and flea market in the two wings of an old train terminal. A bit “Old World” in atmosphere, shoppers can buy live chickens, barter with vendors and enjoy a festive, energetic atmosphere all year round.
Indianapolis – Indianapolis City Market
The Indianapolis City Market was built in 1886 and today includes an arts market on Saturday, a farmers’ market on Wednesdays, cooking classes and ethnic theme events that may focus on the foods of Asia one week or the spices of the Middle East the next. The common thread through it all is that homegrown goodness of corn, tomatoes and other produce from the soil of Indiana.
Madison, Wisconsin
The Madison Wisconsin Farmers Market fills the grounds of the state capitol building and draws a huge crowd to the pedestrian-only mall and shops nearby. Fresh produce is only part of the fun. One Saturday, Wisconsin’s famous dairy cows may be on display; at other times there might be an iron man competition underway. Since it’s the state capitol, don’t be surprised if you’re asked to sign a petition or happen to see an up-and-coming politician working the crowd.
Kansas City – City Market
Kansas City’s City Market overflows with activity weekend mornings all year when as many as 10,000 people have been known to shop for produce and bedding plants one more, artwork on another and bargains from the community garage sale another weekend morning. Valet service is available for big purchases. Some of the city’s most prosperous farm-to-table restaurants have found a naturally successful home here.
Des Moines, Iowa
All products sold at the Des Moines Farmers Market must be grown within the state of Iowa and that means 160 or more booths carrying the freshest produce grown in some of the world’s best farmland. There are also hand-made items, such as dried flower arrangements, seed murals and wheat weaving. A miniature train for children is a standard fixture and most Saturday mornings, you’ll find musicians, clowns or dance troupes performing.
Woodstock, Illinois
Voted the best farmers market in the state of Illinois in 2008, the Woodstock Farmers Market could easily be called a “producers market” because everything must be grown, raised or made by the seller. Located on the town square of this historic community, shoppers are accompanied by folk music performed live from a nearby gazebo on Tuesday and Saturday mornings.
Holland, Michigan
The Holland Michigan Farmers Market literally overflows with blueberries, cherries, strawberries and other fresh fruit from the fields of western Michigan. The market also carries farm fresh cheese, eggs, herbs and spices. In the craft area, handmade furniture is an unexpected treat. But just wandering the aisles, munching on freshly baked Danish and feeling the breeze from Lake Michigan is a treat in itself.
Columbus, Ohio – North Market
Columbus Ohio’s North Market comes with its own kitchen and James Beard-award winning chef to prepare meals right on the spot from items bought at the market. In addition to fresh dairy products, including ice cream, and prepared foods from international vendors, the North Market sells just the right utensils and cookware to bring any meal together.
Lincoln, Nebraska – Historic Haymarket
The Historic Haymarket in Lincoln, Nebraska was originally a place where livestock and produce were sold in the state capitol, but now it is the site of the trendiest restaurants and retail outlets in the city. Every Saturday morning from May to October, the activity jumps another notch when more than 200 of the Midwest’s best farmers bring their produce. It’s also the best place in the city for Kolaches and coffee.
Little Rock, Arkansas – River Market
As polished as any supermarket, the Little Rock Arkansas River Market, located in the historic Quapaw Quarter, is a year-round destination for ethnic cuisine, entertainment and in the summer months, some of Arkansas’ famous tomatoes and watermelons. Something is always happening at the adjacent park overlooking the Arkansas River, and just a few blocks from the William Jefferson Clinton Presidential Library.
Washington D.C. – Eastern Market
Casualty of a fire that ripped through the stalls in April of 2007, the historical Eastern Market has made a comeback and continues to serve meats, poultry, breads and gourmet goodies throughout the week in the South Hall, where many employees of nearby Capitol Hill migrate for lunch. On the weekends, stalls extend to the surrounding outdoor areas and offer antiques, crafts, photography, handmade jewelry and other collectibles. On our last visit, we purchased some vintage fruit labels and stocked up on distinctive greeting cards for less than a dollar apiece.
Santa Monica, California – Virginia Avenue Park
There are several markets that sprout up over the course of the week in this beach city. The best is the Saturday one in Virginia Avenue Park where weekly appearances are made by local restaurateurs featuring the best of their menus.
New York, NY – Union Square Greenmarket
One of the best markets in New York City is the Union Square Farmer’s Market, which extends the length of the west side of the square. Stalls are filled with local fruits, vegetables, dairy, meats, poultry, fish, spices… just about anything you can imagine. At the tail end, you’ll find tables with artists selling their wares. We picked up some local goat cheese and wine, plus a hilarious comic-book version of the Grimm brother tales, handed to us directly by the author.
Chicago, IL – French Market
Inspired by European markets, the French Market was recently developed as an effort to promote community in the city. It’s located adjacent to the Ogilvie Transportation Center. The vendors sell delicious pastries and prepared foods as well as produce, meats, cheese and seafood. Grab some mussels and delicious Sicilian sandwiches before hopping on a train to the Chicago suburbs. Make sure to stop by Chicago’s world-renowned Green City Market while you’re in town.
Portland, OR – Portland State University
Portland has long relished in its status as one of the country’s most eco-conscious, sophisticated food cities, and the town’s wealth of farmer’s markets certainly doesn’t disappoint. Each Saturday the shoppers of Portland flock to the grounds of Portland State University, home to Portland’s biggest and most famous of the city’s six recognized downtown markets.
San Francisco, CA – Ferry Building and Plaza
No list of farmers markets could be complete without mentioning this titan of the food world. Ground zero for the birth of slow food and much of the current revolution in local, organic eating sweeping the nation, San Francisco and the Bay Area is king and its historic Ferry Building and nearby Plaza Farmer’s Market is the capital building. Stop by for delicious favorites like locally produced cheeses, more mushrooms than you’ve ever seen and some tasty gelato.
Chocolate. Bacon. Funnel cake. Three of my favorite things in the world. But is putting them all together too much of a good thing?
Apparently not at Knott’s Berry Farm, where chocolate bacon funnel cake is being added to the menu.
This over-the-top culinary concoction started where all good theme-park food trends do these days, on Twitter.
Meghan Gardner, a spokeswoman for Knott’s Berry Farm, said that the park sent out a tweet asking followers what funnel cake toppings they would like to see added to the menu.
Chocolate and bacon was the winner. So, the Buena Park, Calif., theme park created a funnel cake drizzled with chocolate syrup and topped with chopped bacon.
It was supposed to be a temporary item, Gardner said. But it proved so popular that the new snack has been added to the permanent menu at the park’s Funnel Cake Kitchen.
A woman in New York once confessed to me that on a recent trip to San Francisco, so many people told her she had to eat at La Taqueria in the Mission District that she eventually wandered down Mission St. looking for this legendary taco spot. “But every place there was called ‘La Taqueria,'” she said, still bewildered, “So I just went into one and ate.”
I had to confess I laughed at her stupidity. But I could sympathize as well. The Mission is crammed with taquerias and if you’re not accustomed to accosting a stranger to ask, then you wind up in the wrong place-though I’m sure wherever she ended up she ate well. After all, she was from New York, where similar hole-in the-wall taquerias, run by Mexicans, patronized by Mexicans, with a menu completely in Spanish, are the ugly, mustached, far-less tasty stepbrother of the California equivalent. I too live in New York and so when I spent five days in the Mission District this week, I felt obligated by my taste buds to make a pilgrimage to the taqueria. Or, rather, several of them.
But instead of just revisiting the my old haunts when I lived here-La Taqueria, El Farolito, Taqueria Cancun-I wanted to try different places. I’ve recently seen a few travel stories where the writer relies on social media like twitter to determine the itinerary. The idea was good, but at the same time (steel yourself twitter fanatics), I’m starting to wonder if social media’s use as a travel tool is overblown, amplified by the travel industry because of its newness.
So I would go on a quest for tacos the old school way: by asking people face to face-yes, turning off my phone and actually talking to a stranger-to determine where I should eat next. I started in front of La Taqueria at Mission and 25th Sts. and accosted a hooded gentleman whose thick mustache suggested he knew a thing or two about tacos. “Right here,” he said, pointing to La Taqueria. When I explained that I wanted to go somewhere different, he said, ah, and pointed down the street to La Corneta.
La Corneta (2731 Misson St. at 23rd St.) is a grand, spacious place with the obligatory 20-foot painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe on the wall. Even though I was about to consume a cart full of tacos, La Corneta’s chaffing dishes soaking with red and orange-hued meats and sauces were too good to pass up. So I ordered three: pollo con salsa roja, al pastor (barbequed pork) and chorizo (Mexican sausage). The ingredients here were a step above, fresher tasting and bolder. And with just one encounter so far, I had a new place to eat tacos the next time I’m in town (or to recommend to someone on twitter!).
When I stepped outside, the rarified San Francisco sun splashing me in the face, I was the one who was accosted. A woman was handing me a pamphlet in Spanish. One that subscribed to the Jehovah’s Witness faith. “I’m only a believer in Santo Taco,” I told her. She tilted her head and I explained. “Oh,” she said, “Then you must go to Taqueria San Jose.”
And, as my mission states, I did go to Taqueria San Jose (2830 Mission St. at 24th St.). When I noticed one wall boasted a huge painting of a woman (or is that a man?) happily shaving off meat from a kabob-like haunch of pork, I knew I was in the right place. I ordered one taco-al pastor-and when it arrived, I just felt like staring at it for a while. Two corn tortillas with a mountain of shredded barbeque pork on top and a glistening layer of red salsa on the very top. I dug in and was rewarded with ultra tender meat that was heavily charred on the outside. I wanted another, but I had to move on.
My next victim was a woman selling avocados one block down the street. She didn’t speak English, but a man with a big belly came over to help out. They both agreed that I should go to La Altena (2588 Mission St. at 22nd St.). “What should I get there?” I asked.
The man swayed his head back and forth, the nickel-sized medallion hanging from a gold chain around his neck glimmering from the sun, and said: “Vaca … puerco …. pollo…” He’d ticked off a list that made up the canon of meats. And despite his advice, I ordered a fish taco at La Altena. Nevermind the guy at the register didn’t know what kind of fish it was. Lightly breaded and very flaky, the fish was bland, aided by the contrasting texture of fresh, stiff cabbage on top and some tangy green salsa. It was the one miss on my journey so far, but then again, I shouldn’t have deviated from the advice I’d received on the street. I should have stuck to animals that had legs, not fins.
Five tacos in, I was getting full. But I had to carry on. So I asked a twenty-something guy selling ice cream. “Taqueria San Francisco,” he said with such enthusiasm his breath was shooting exclamation marks. He pointed down 24th Street and then shook my hand. This was something that would never happen on twitter. I commenced my journey. I don’t know why, but I’d never been down this way, which is a shame, because the blocks of 24th St. south of Mission St. (SoMi?), were an intriguing yet incongruous mixture of Salvadoran and Mexican restaurants, shops that sold Virgin Mary candles, hipster coffee houses, and restaurants that served brunch. I was so enjoying it, in fact, that I was almost disappointed when I happened upon Taqueria San Francisco (2794 24th St. at York St.).
I was especially disappointed when the interior had a certain stench to it, one that smelled like a bathroom; not necessarily a dirty bathroom, but a commode nonetheless. No one wants to be reminded of such tings in the place you’re about to consume food. But I’m glad I ordered: the al pastor taco was the best yet: unlike the charred pork meat at Taqueria San Jose, the meat here was soft, a little bit chewy and interspersed with cilantro, diced tomatoes and fresh onions.
With my stomach full, my anti-twitter taco crawl would come to a close. Who knows, maybe my twitter friends could have recommended even better places. The fact is though: just as my friend in New York discovered when she was looking for La Taqueria, a visitor to San Francisco can visit in any taqueria in the Mission District and be satisfied.