Santander: a beautiful port in northern Spain

by Sean McLachlan on

Yesterday we talked about some of the things to do while visiting Cantabria, Spain’s often-overlooked northern province. The best place to use as a base while touring Cantabria is the provincial capital Santander.

Santander is a port and owes its life to the sea. It has a northern bay and a southern bay divided by a thin peninsula. The southern bay is home to downtown, the port, and the popular ferry coming from Plymouth, England. The northern bay is more touristy along the shore, and more residential inland. Beaches stretch both to the north and south of town and if you don’t want to share the sand with bikini-clad Spanish women (or speedo-wearing Spanish guys) you can always walk for a bit and find an isolated cove to claim as your own. Be careful of the riptides, though. Inexperienced swimmers should stick to the main beaches in the two bays.

The water is pretty chilly but there’s steady surf that attracts surfers from all over Spain. It’s also quite clean considering that it’s so near a major port. If you’re not up to braving the water (which would be no challenge to the Alaska Polar Bear Club) you can sit in one of the many seaside cafes and sip some wine while watching the boats go by.

When asked what to do around town, every local told us to walk to the lighthouse at Cabo Mayor. It’s less than an hour’s easy stroll to the north of the northern bay. The rocky coastline is picturesque with strange geological formations, little beaches nestled between towering rocks, and windswept promontories with wide views of the sea and shoreline. The lighthouse is home to an art gallery dedicated to, you guessed it, lighthouses in art, plus a massive and somewhat obsessive collection of lighthouses on lighters, ashtrays, matchboxes, book covers, etc. Someone spent way too much time rummaging through junk shops for lighthouse ephemera!

%Gallery-96013%If you get a rainy day (and you will get a rainy day) your first stop should probably be the Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico, a fun and informative museum about the ocean. There are hundreds of ship models and a big display of fish, including a pickled squid, a sardine with two heads, and some weird deep sea beastie with glowing teeth that looks like it’s from an H.P. Lovecraft story. In the basement is a large aquarium teeming with sharks, manta rays, and other aquatic life. The terrace cafe offers a fine view of the port where you can watch the freighters go in and out.

Of course, the town offers the usual Spanish sights such as a medieval cathedral, a nice art museum, an archaeological museum, and a variety of bars and cafes. You won’t get the nightlife here that you would in Madrid or Barcelona, but you’ll get it a lot cheaper. A night out with five pinchos (appetizers), two rum and cokes, and a glass of wine came out to €19.50 ($24). The pinchos were delicious and large enough that they served as our dinner.

Local hotels are used to hooking visitors up with tour groups that can take you around the sights of Cantabria. You might want to get in touch with one of the many hiking groups too. Spanish trails aren’t always well marked, and with the unpredictable weather and high altitudes of some of the mountains, it’s best to go with a group.

Cantabria: Spain’s rugged northern coast

by Sean McLachlan on


Spain is a hugely popular tourist destination, but people tend to go along the same old, same old trail. Either they pop into Madrid for a couple of days to see the art before hitting the southern cities of Seville and Grenada, or they skip culture entirely and go straight to the Costa del Sol to soak up some rays. While both of these options have a lot going for them, they ignore the pleasures of Spain’s usually overlooked northern provinces.

One of the most commonly missed is Cantabria, a small province located on the northern coast of Spain between the Basque country to the east and Asturias to the west. Cantabria is part of “Green Spain”, where the Gulf Stream provides a mild climate with more rainfall than the rest of the country. Here you’ll find prairie, forest, rivers, and mountains. It seems like a different country than the wide open spaces of central Spain, or the Spaghetti Western feel of southern Spain. For the traveler wanting to see more than the usual attractions, Cantabria offers a lot.

Cantabria has both coastline and mountains. The rugged limestone Cantabrian Mountains are honeycombed with caves. Many were home to the region’s first inhabitants, who left their artwork on the walls. The most beautiful examples are in Altamira, which will soon reopen to visitors. A total of ten Cantabrian painted caves have been designated together as a World Heritage Site. Each one is unique. Altamira is like an art gallery full of fine paintings, while it would be easy to miss the paintings in the Cueva de las Monedas, where you’re distracted by the giant columns and colorful curtains of rippled stone that draw attention away from the little drawings and engravings of animals in a small side chamber. At Cueva de Covalanas, the painters obviously had an eye for color. Horses and deer have been painted on a bright red on a natural white background, and still look fresh more than 15,000 years later.

If you’re more into pretty rock formations than art in your caves, check out the 1.7 km (1.1 mile) long Soplao Cave, with its giant stalactites and stalagmites and other weird formations. It’s just one of dozens of caves you can visit. Experienced cavers can get permission to enter plenty more.

%Gallery-95921%The Romans liked the region too, and you can see a well-preserved Roman town at Juliobriga, where 2,000 year-old roads and buildings lie next to a Medieval church, showing the endurance of civilization in this part of Europe. Like the rest of Spain, Cantabria has plenty of Medieval and Renaissance relics, and you’ll find the usual assortment of churches and old houses. If you want castles though, head south. La Reconquista, the epic struggle between the Spaniards and the Moors for control of the Iberian peninsula, happened well south of here.

Cantabria offers a lot for hikers and climbers. The rugged peaks can soar well above 2,500 meters and the highest have snow year round. Contrast that with deep, lush valleys cut by swift-flowing streams, thick forests, and gentle valleys dotted with villages, and you have terrain to suit all tastes. The coastline is popular with sailors and windsurfers. If you’re willing to brave the chilly northern waters, there’s even surfing and swimming.

Of course, being on the coastline means there’s plenty of good seafood. Try rabas (fried squid), mejillones (mussels), and nécoras (a type of crab). Actually pretty much anything on the seafood menu will be fresh, tasty, and way cheaper than what you’d pay in Madrid. Landlubbers with a hearty appetite will like the cocido montañés, a stew with kidney beans, cabbage, chorizo, blood sausage, and bacon. As an aid to digestion, a big meal will generally be followed by a small glass of orujo, an eye-watering brew made from the skin and pulp of the grape.

Cantabria’s principal city and regional capital is Santander. It’s only a four-and-a-half hour train ride from Madrid on the national railway Renfe. Plenty of flights connect Santander to Spain’s principal cities, and Ryanair connects Santander to London’s Stansted and other major European airports. If you’re considering a trip to Spain, you might want to try something different and head north instead of south. You won’t meet the man from La Mancha, but you’ll have a different experience.

Photo courtesy Nicolás Pérez via Wikimedia Commons.

Altamira prehistoric painted cave to reopen

by Sean McLachlan on


One of Europe’s most breathtaking examples of prehistoric art will soon be accessible to the public.

The Paleolithic cave art at Altamira, in the Cantabria region of northern Spain, will soon be open to visitors. Altamira’s paintings of bison, deer, and other animals date from 14,000 to 20,000 years ago and are some of the best preserved of all prehistoric cave art. Even more intriguing are the hand prints by the artists themselves.

Cantabria’s Culture Ministry and Altamira’s board of directors have decided to reopen the site sometime next year. Access will be limited and they did not release details as to the number of people who will be allowed into the cave. Altamira has been closed since 2002 because even the few visitors allowed at that time affected the delicate environment that had preserved the paintings for so many millennia. Like at the famous Paleolithic cave of Lascaux in France, mold has started growing on some of the paintings. The circulation of air from people coming and going changes the temperature, and their breath changes the humidity.

Some archaeologists have criticized the move, saying that allowing visitors will increase the damage already done. If the plans to reopen Altamira go through, it could lead to a controversy similar to the one surrounding Lascaux, which has seen a group of scientists called the International Committee for the Preservation of Lascaux call for an independent investigation into how the cave is managed.

Photo of Altamira reproduction at Madrid’s Museo Arqueológico Nacional de España courtesy José-Manuel Benito.