One for the Road – China: A Traveller’s History of China

by Kelly Amabile on

As a sidebar to this month’s Chinese Buffet series, throughout August, One for the Road will highlight travel guides, reference books and other recommended reads related to life or travel in China.

These days it seems as if everyone has written a book about the current (and rapidly changing) state of affairs in China. There is no shortage of titles to choose from. I chose Oracle Bones to read before my departure for the PRC, but then looked for a basic historical overview to gain further background about the country. Again, the options seem endless. So I went with the one that seemed most suitable for me: A Traveller’s History of China from Interlink Books (4th edition, 2006).

This mini-textbook provides a suitable introduction to the country’s history, politics, culture and geography. Author Stephen G. Haw has written a straightforward summary of the origins of Chinese civilization straight through to talk of Taiwan, Hong Kong and the future. Any book that can succinctly squash “two million years of history into 300 pages” should be applauded — and since this one is slanted slightly towards travelers intending to visit China, it’s an excellent title to consider. The index includes a list of all dynasties, chronology of major historical events and an explanation of Chinese characters.

Chinese Buffet – Part 8: Contemplation at the Temples

by Kelly Amabile on

Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.

Besides wandering through shady parks, I spent quite a bit if my week in Beijing roaming the grounds of the city’s various temples. Like the parks and gardens, temples were my serene havens, where I could sneak off to escape the bustling streets. Many temples are located right in the middle of the busy city that has built up around them, but once inside the walls of these sanctuaries, the urban buzz dissipates.

Dongyue, a Taoist temple tucked between tall buildings along Chaoyangmen in the eastern part of the city, was the first one I visited. Not having been to a temple before, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I tried not to focus on the fact that the theme of this place is Death. (Dong Yue is the mountain peak that the spirits of the dead travel to.)

This donkey was one of the first things that caught my eye, but I circled the entire temple before I came back to it for a closer look. It was only on my second pause by this guy that I learned the story behind the Bronze Wonder Donkey, who was the riding animal for the God Wen Chang:

“Being a supernatural animal, it has the head of a horse, the body of a donkey, the tail of a mule and the split hoof of a bull. As the story goes, touching the animal could cure diseases and proved to be highly effective.”

Apparently it used to be a customary practice to visit the donkey for a rub of good fortune.

This was exactly the kind of good omen I was looking for. A close relative of mine back in the US was undergoing major surgery that day, and I had told her that I’d seek out a sacred place where I could send some good thoughts her way. I gave the donkey a few good rubs in the worn spots on his snout and side where so many others had done so before.

A few days later I visited the Yong He Gong or Lama Temple, more popular with tourists groups, and it certainly showed in the number of folks milling about. The smell of incense was intense — that lingering scent will be what I remember most from my visit here. I sat and watched worshipers light and burn the hot pink and yellow sticks, meditating on what meaning any of this had for me.

This temple, the largest working one in Beijing, is home to the “yellow hat” Lama sect of Buddhism. There is a large group of monks from Tibet and Mongolia who regularly worship here. A group of the fine feathered fellas came outside while I sat nearby. They chanted in low tones as tourists gathered around them. I stayed back, on a bench across the courtyard, and zoomed in with my camera for this shot:

I sat in the Lama Temple for quite awhile, listening to the humming Buddhist prayers, and how they seemed to move in rhythm with the snores of the Chinese man asleep on the bench next to me. It was comical and spiritual — there was some sort of spirit moving through the air — a peaceful one, that also had a sense of humor.

Directly across the street and about halfway down a hutong alley from the Lama Temple is the Confucius Temple, which is currently undergoing major renovation. It was deserted except for staff and construction crew, but was still open to the public. I enjoyed the emptiness of the place — and took the opportunity to get creative with my digital camera. While incense was the strong scent at Lama, here it was the paint. These glimmering red columns (which I liked contrasted against the bright green leaves) looked as if they were still wet.:

When I went to leave the temple about 30 minutes later, an older gentleman seated by the door motioned for me to head left before exiting. It turns out there was an entire other section of the temple that I would have missed completely if it were not for his direction. I wound up spending another hour or so exploring the additional grounds and buildings, and spent most of my time in a long dimly lit room near the rear of the complex. I again found myself having fun with the camera, trying to catch shadows and light:

I had stumbled upon the Qianlong Stone Scriptures, the “forest of the steles of the Thirteen Classics.” This collection of 190 stones is inscribed with much of the tenets of Confucian philosophy. The temple staff members positioned at either end of the narrow hall each spoke to me in Chinese — I knew they were both trying to share information with me about these stones, about their significance, no doubt. I nodded silently, feeling reverent, but frustrated that I could not talk with them. In the absence of common language, there was only silence to share. All I could do was walk in awe, capturing visual memories of this life-size stone book:

My hours of contemplative wandering through Beijing’s temples were solitary explorations that uncovered treasures like these oracle stones. I didn’t need to know all the details of Taoism, Buddhism or Confucianism to find meaning in these places. I just looked at my own belief system from a different perspective, and discovered common ground — universal truths about fortune, good health, humor and the power of words.

Chinese Buffet – Part 7: Remembering Ritan Park

by Kelly Amabile on

Appropriately, the sun was shining when I first visited Ritan Park. The name literally means “Temple of the Sun” and the site used to be the place where Ming and Qing emperors would make sacrifices to the Gods. Now it is a peaceful oasis, one of the loveliest parks in the city. And the place where I spent my very first hours getting to know China.

Ritan Park is in the eastern park of the city, surrounded by embassies and the “Little Moscow” district. (If you’ve read Oracle Bones, you may recall that this is the part of the city where Peter and Polat used to meet.)

I gravitate towards urban parks, especially when I am overwhelmed by a new city and not sure where to begin my exploring. Since this square of green was located fairly close to where I was staying, it naturally seemed like a perfect place to begin.

I entered through the West Gate, and within seconds I saw examples of the morning park activities I had read about. To my right, off the main entranceway, was a small group of couples dancing, while a lawnmower churned behind them. I moved to the north side of the main path and spied yet another small group of waltzers. No one seemed bothered by the shifting noises, melodies merging in the morning breeze.

The fan ladies were the ones I was really looking for, but unfortunately, as I approached a large group, I could sense their routine was about to end. I snapped this shot just as they finished up:

I went and sat under the tree near where these ladies had gathered, hoping they would start up again, but it was clear I was too late. I admired their pink and red fans, marveled at all the pastel umbrellas bopping by and practiced saying “Ni hao” to some Chinese children.

Circling through a few other nooks and crannies of the park, I came upon young boys playing with a hackey sack toy topped with colorful feathers. There was also a girl practicing her flute, two older men playing cards and a group of women, performing together with this “yo-yo” like device that they pass to each other using only the strings attached to sticks that they hold in their hands. I’ve still been unable to figure out what this contraption is called, but it was fun to watch them for a while:

Eventually I came upon this stunning pagoda and lotus pond, which was glistening in the morning sun. This is only one of about 35 shots I look, trying to capture each low-waving willow branch and blossoming lotus.

The musicians shaded underneath seemed to be in between sets, there were only sporadic notes and tunes coming from their direction. I picked a rock to sit on, had a snack and waited for them to start up again. To my surprise, they began with a musical interlude of the Scottish hymn Auld Lang Syne. (As my trip progressed, I learned that musicians play just about anything on their instruments here, from traditional Chinese folk songs to Christmas tunes!)

To the left of the pagoda is this unique stone boat, home of the popular Stone Boat Cafe. The place was just opening up as I passed by, and didn’t look ready for business just yet, or I might have gone in for a cool beverage. Instead, I walked back around to the other side to take this shot, and watch the fisherman:

I read that these anglers pay to buy a fish that they then throw in the man-made lake and try to catch. Hours of enjoyment…if you like fishing! There was a whole bunch of them scattered around, but I just watched this one guy for a while, hanging out on his own little jetty.

A few days later I would return to this spot in the evening with my Couchsurfing host, Johanna, for some drinks at the cafe. The park (which is free to enter, unlike some others in the city) closes about 10 pm, but one gate is left open for folks to access the cafe, which has live music performances every Thursday night, and more often in the summer. I didn’t know this until now, but it seems the stone boat has free wireless too.

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly why this place left such a lasting impression on me, but it’s probably my most favorite spot in China. Is it because it was the very first place I visited in the country? Or was it the simple understated beauty of people just doing things in a park? The every day regularity of the place is what struck me most. In the end, it doesn’t really matter why — but I certainly know it will be easy for me to cherish this early and perfect moment of my travels through China.

Going Alone: Tips for a Safe and Pleasant Solo Journey

by Catherine Bodry on
My first trip anywhere alone began in Athens 9 years ago. I grew up in the suburbs of Seattle, and had never even taken the bus, let alone experienced a foreign city. As my plane descended I watched the sprawling white city become clearer and clearer through the smoggy sky, and as we got closer I became more terrified. The plane touched down — and I started bawling. It took several Heinekens and a kind stranger to get me in a taxi to my hostel, and several more days before I recovered from jet lag and culture shock.

The subsequent month I spent touring around Europe were filled with incredible highs — I discovered I was capable and competent, and my self-esteem was boosted permanently — and all-encompassing lows — I got lonely and lost, and in situations that would’ve been funny if I’d been with a friend but drove me to tears instead — and I returned to the States a changed person. I’ve taken several solo trips since then, and I love that traveling alone forces me to be outgoing, or allows me be anonymous.

Of course, there’s smart solo travel, where someone always knows where you are and when they should hear from you. And then there’s … not-so-smart solo travel, like the time I arrived in rural China (Guizhou Province) without a guidebook, language guide, or friend. I cried until the only thing left to do was pick myself up and figure things out. I ended that trip humbled — and as always, amazed by the kindness of strangers and the power of body language.

If you’re traveling alone, you should always have someone who is waiting for you to check in, and who has a copy of your itinerary and passport at the least. To combat loneliness, try staying in hostels rather than hotels, and seek out touristy bars and restaurants if possible. If you’re dining alone, it always helps to have a good book or your journal handy to keep you occupied.

For more tips on having a safe and pleasant solo journey, check out msnbc.com.

One for the Road – China: Time Out Beijing

by Kelly Amabile on

As a sidebar to this month’s Chinese Buffet series, throughout August, One for the Road will highlight travel guides, reference books and other recommended reads related to life or travel in China.

Time Out’s new city guide to Beijing was published in late June, right before I left for China. I was lucky to get hold of a copy just days before my departure. I’ve read Time Out’s magazines before, but this was the first trip during which I used one of their guidebooks.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, since I’m not familiar with their city guide format. Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised to find myself turning to Time Out Beijing at least once every day during my trip. And I think I carried it with me almost every day too, since it’s so lightweight. The color maps in the back are not that great, and I wish they had Chinese translations for all the entries. But the content is good, and includes side bars with valuable tidbits about food, business, history and trends. I like how they break out the sightseeing chapter into different sections for each geographical neighborhood. That made it easy to flip through when I found myself lost somewhere, in search of something to do :)

It’s a stylish, pretty guide with color photos that provides an excellent overview to the city. Check it out if you’re headed to Beijing soon — the info is all fairly current, since it was published recently.