The perfect Croatian island village: Okuklje, Mljet

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Croatia‘s Adriatic islands are desperately beautiful. They span a significant geographic range, from Krk in the north right by Rijeka to the tiny Elaphiti islands in the south, just off Dubrovnik.

While every island has its charms, Mljet, an hour or so by catamaran from Dubrovnik, is extra special. It’s heavily forested, with well over eighty percent of the island covered by beautiful trees. The island is long and skinny, with a length of almost 25 miles and an average width of about two miles. The population is small, at just over one thousand, spread across a number of small villages. The largest of these, the inland village of Babino Polje, has fewer than 400 residents according to the most recent population statistics. There is only one bona fide hotel on Mljet. Tourists tend to stay in private accommodations across the island or at campsites.

The glory of Mljet is the national park that occupies its western end, in particular St Mary Island, which sits on an inland lake within the park and hosts a church and monastery.

But if you are driven by solitude and out-of-the-way pockets of beauty, you won’t want to linger at the national park. Those drawn to relaxed seaside villages will do well to head to the tiny settlement of Okuklje on the northern coast. Over a mile from Mljet’s main artery up and then down a very steep twister of a road, Okuklje gathers around a winding protected bay. It’s beautiful and quiet. There are no beaches, but there are plenty of ways to enter the bay effortlessly. (The only sandy beaches of note on Mljet, by the way, can be found at the island’s eastern tip, near Saplunara, where the waters are exquisitely beautiful but the strands are a mite crowded in July.)

A few dozen stone houses cluster around Okuklje’s winding bay. There are a handful of restaurants and plenty of private houses and individual rooms for rent. There is a regular stream of overnighting sailors. More importantly, there is plenty of shade along the tiny ribbon of street along the bay and the tourists keep to themselves. And the water, slightly warmer than that of the unsheltered Adriatic, is as smooth as silk.

There are lots of reasons to visit Croatia’s Adriatic coast. But if you are after peace and quiet, you could do far worse than to pick a sleepy village on the sleepiest of Croatia’s larger Adriatic islands.

European low-cost airlines fail to enforce charges and fees

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Flying around Europe on low-cost airlines over the last few months has taught me a few things. Among the most useful lessons I’ve picked up: Baggage and check-in fees and charges are enforced quite unevenly.

European low-cost carriers present their customers with a frightening thicket of charges and fees. These charges, which serve as a revenue stream for the airlines, are less readily enforced by contract agents who are not direct employees of the airlines in question, though bona fide airline employees also appear to enforce them inconsistently.

Some anecdotes from the last few months follow.

In Tel Aviv in March I tried to inform the easyJet check-in agent–clearly not an employee of easyJet–that, having failed to pay to check a bag online, I would need to cough up some shekels to do so. Not only did she refuse to take money to check my duffel bag but she clearly had no idea that I was supposed to be charged to check by bag in the first place.

Flying airBaltic between London and Finland last month, I was made to weigh my carry-on en route to Finland by an airBaltic agent. Returning, the contract employee in Oulu didn’t ask me to weigh my bag, which, at 9 kilos, was right at the weight limit.

Three events, arguably, serve as a representative sample. I flew WizzAir last week to and from the Balkans. WizzAir demands that its customers’ carry-on bags not exceed ten kilos, but neither the agent at Luton nor the at Dubrovnik on my return weighed my bag to see if it had exceeded the limit. In both cases I was very likely just over the baggage weight limit.

This is a case not so much of lessons learned than of a pattern observed. Contract check-in agents don’t appear to have been taught about the intricacies of their employers’ rules and regulations, first off. Secondly, and just possibly, if your carry-on bag looks diminutive, you may be able to get away with a few extra kilos.

That said, this is not an official Gadling recommendation to start to think of these charges and fees as inconsequential. They’re imposed to make money and they succeed in doing so for their airlines. To some degree, I’m sure I was simply lucky in these instances. But clearly the fees and charges are not being enforced as fully as they were designed to be.

[Image: Flickr | jenny-bee]

Lost travel friends

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Before Facebook–hell, before mobile telephones and email–it wasn’t all that easy to keep in touch with people you might meet on the road.

You could exchange addresses and telephone numbers, of course, but by the time you were in a position to make a call or scribble a letter, the immediacy of the connection you’d shared while staying up all night on that Sardinian beach would probably be gone. Just like that, your travel friends would become lost travel friends.

In some instances, the fact that connections were more difficult to establish was a positive thing. Only connections of consequence would outlast the original encounter. The rest would fade away in a pleasant swirl of nostalgia, and you’d never be confronted by vile comments on your Facebook wall from that faint blast from the past who doesn’t belong in your future.

Nonetheless, there’s a little bit of sadness associated with all those lost travel buddies. The kinds of connections forged on the road are quite special–immediate, often effortless, involving snap decisions to trust, share, and engage.

Here’s my own hall of fame of fascinating people met on my travels over the years with whom I either immediately lost touch or failed to remain in contact.

Elke. I think that was the name of the soft-spoken anarchist who alighted from my Berlin-bound train at the final pre-border station in West Germany in the summer of 1989. We’d talked for hours and shared each other’s food. I think she wanted to write children’s books. She was deeply alienated by consumerism and dressed quite shabbily, yet she seemed cautiously happy. I remember that she waved goodbye as she left the train.

The countess. She had a von in her name and lived in a super rich suburb of Munich, on a lake. I was 17. We took the overnight train from Paris to Munich and stayed up the entire time talking and smoking a million cigarettes. Where are you now, countess? Living with your five children and count husband in a Bavarian castle? Doing drugs with your Romanian bodybuilder boyfriend in Mallorca?

The French couple who drove me and my father from Rijeka to Ljubljana in their miniscule car. We met on the Jadrolinija ferry from Dubrovnik. He was portly; she was tiny. They spoke very little English and our French was execrable but we laughed the entire way.

The East German man. Lars? It was 1992. I was stuck at a hostel in Oostende for a few days waiting for a ferry to England. He was a mad traveler, driving off every few weeks to explore another corner of Europe until recently forbidden to him. He told me how much he wanted to visit Iceland, and several months later I received a postcard from him from Reykjavik. I wonder sometimes if this fellow now works in the travel industry.

Carol Ann, the American nun. She shared a regular train compartment with me and my sister, which we tried to turn into a makeshift couchette by drawing the shades and pretending to be asleep. Whenever someone would open the door looking for a place to sit, my sister, 14 at the time, would sit up in a fake stupor and ask them to be quiet so that we could remain sleeping. Sister Carol Ann giggled each time this happened.

[Image: Flickr | fazen]

Dubrovnik in a day

by Chris Owen on
We had just a few hours in Dubrovnik, Croatia and wanted to make the best of it. Arriving via cruise ship, time was limited. This was the first port of call on a 9-night Mediterranean cruise which looked to be a good sampling of the area. The plan is to hit each destination hard, see some highlights and capture enough information to decide if a return trip might be in the cards for future travel. It made sense, sampling these places we had never been to before, but right off the bat we had a problem: we fell in love with Dubrovnik.

What we call our “sampling of the Med” tour started in Venice, Italy and will end nine days later in Barcelona. In between we will also visit Sicily, Naples, Rome and Livorno, Italy as well as a stop in Monaco. That makes eight destinations in nine days. To prepare for Dubrovnik we started with a Google search for Dubrovnik and gathered background information. VisitCroatia.com was helpful as well as a host of other websites for the basic information we would need for entry requirements, infrastructure in place, etc. As far as what to do and see, we relied on a number of sources including Gadling and AOLTravel for specific recommendations.

The cruise ship we came on was the Carnival Magic (#CarnivalMagic), a new one on her inaugural voyage and staff there had some recommendations as well. The day before we were delivered to Dubrovnik, Carnival Magic’s cruise director gave a complete briefing on what to expect, see and do ashore. The ship offered shore excursions, packaged tours for a set price, but we wanted to try what we have done in other parts of the world here, go it on our own. Our normal plan when visiting a new destination is to first come prepared with a good working knowledge of what to expect, set some goals for what we want to see then make final choices on the ground in sync with what is happening there right now. In other words, our plans are rarely set in stone and offer a great amount of flexibility.

Approaching travel that does not have a specific date-sensitive event included with a good dose of flexibility has made for some fabulous travel adventures in the past. Still, our visit to Dubrovnik had an expiration date so efficient time management was important.

Money management here was easy. Currency in Dubrovnik is the Kuna which is about a five to one value to the US dollar. Euros are also accepted and some merchants take dollars as well. Unlike other ports we will call on for this journey, Croatia’s entry requirements for cruise travelers call for a valid passport to be presented before entry is granted. On other ports, cruise travelers can leave passports securely behind on the ship and be granted entry with only their ship identification card.

It was a cloudy day with rain off and on all morning. By mid-morning the rain slowed but naggy clouds looked like they would be staying around for a while. Armed with rain gear we chose to take a short (2.5km) hike to what is called the “Old City” (aka Stari Grad), a walled fortress that looks somewhat similar to El Morro in San Juan, Puerto Rico from a distance. Good public transportation runs all day and we could have taken a bus for a few bucks but would have missed out on some fabulous scenery. Dubrovnik was heavily bombed during the Croatian War of Independence from 1991 to 1995 and has some battle scars to prove it. Still, the people are warm and friendly in a real “I hope you come back again” way rather than a “we’re putting up with you” kind of way.

Stopping at a bar along the way as well as pausing about every 10 meters to take photos, that short hike took a bit less than an hour, leaving plenty of time for lunch and exploring the walled city. It did not take long to fall in love with this city and it’s people, a helpful and friendly bunch that did not mind answering questions or giving directions and suggestions on what to see.

Our waiter, Eliah, at the Sesame Restaurant just outside the gated city, told us English was a second language to many in Dubrovnik who chose it with dreams of visiting some day. He wants to be a Crime Scene Investigator and studied to be one in college. One problem with his plan is that there is very little crime in Croatia, especially in Dubrovnik, so not all that many of those jobs exist. But when he talked about visiting the United States for a possible job sometime in the future, Elijah’s face took on a dream-like look that I will probably always remember.

To Elijah we were not the Ugly Americans off the cruise ship, we were friends being served in his home. That warm and open demeanor of his would be experienced several times that day from others we would come in contact with too.

I mention this particular part of our hike for just one reason; because it accomplished one of the major goals we have for every place we visit: to make a friend. We have done packaged tours and shore excursions before and will later on this journey. Those are safe, guided ways to see a lot of things in a short amount of time. But we like to take our time and get to know the land we are visiting. A day in old town accomplished this very nicely.

Photos: Lisa Owen

Also see these related posts on Gadling


Chris is being sponsored by Carnival Cruise Lines on a Nine-night Mediterranean cruise and is free to report anything he experiences on the journey without bias

Summer travel: European beach destinations

by Matthew Firestone on

With the summer holiday season just around the corner, it’s never too early to start planning your escape to the beach. For many Americans, this means balmy Floridian shores, the sun-kissed Californian coast, far-flung Hawaiian islands or hedonistic Caribbean resorts.

But if you’re looking for a slice of culture alongside your generous helpings of sea and sand, then consider escaping to one (or several) European beach destinations. A quick jaunt across the pond is all that separates you from basking in glorious Mediterranean climes.

The French Riviera is arguably the most glamorous destination on the continent, but the surprising diversity of European beaches easily caters to travelers of all budget levels. Therein lies the real appeal as you can seek out whatever wave-lapped strip of land that happens to take your fancy.

On that note, we’re proud to kick off our summer travel round-ups by highlighting five European beach destinations that we can’t stop thinking about. Although this list is by no means exhaustive, we’re hoping that it inspires you to dig out the swimsuits from your closet’s nether regions.If your bags are packed with beachwear, flip flops, an absorbent towel and the proper amount of skin-healthy sunscreen, then you’re ready for the following locales:

Barcelona The capital of Catalunya, the second most populous city in Spain and home to the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona isn’t exactly the first place that comes to mind when you think European beaches. But the city is actually hemmed in by a series of attractive beaches, including the mile-long Playa de la Barceloneta.

Although it’s definitely not the most beautiful beach in the bunch, Barceloneta wins in the category of convenience. It’s actually accessible by metro, which provides ample opportunities for urban denizens to tomar el sol or ‘drink the sun.’ Best part: tapas bars line the beach, ensuring that you’re never too far away from a glass of wine, flaky bread, dried meats, ripe cheeses and all manners of cured olives.

Nice While there are certainly glitzier destinations along the French Riviera (we’re looking at you, Saint-Tropez!), Nice is distinguished by its rich cultural heritage – and fantastic seafood. The old town is home to a series of pedestrian-built squares lined with alfresco cafes and bistros. Menus pay homage to the local proverb: ‘Fish are born in the sea, and die in olive oil.’

The beach itself is fronted by the Promenade des Anglais or ‘Promenade of the English,’ which was commissioned by wealthy English vacationers in the 18th century. Today, La Prom (as it is affectionately known by locals) is perfect for a leisurely stroll while staring out into the azure expanses of the Mediterranean. C’est Magnifique.

Balearic Islands This archipelago floating off the southeastern coast of Spain is comprised of fifty major and minor islands including Majorca, Minorca, Formentera, Cabrera and Ibiza. The geography here is dramatic, with rocky coastlines punctuated by sheltered swaths of postcard-perfect sandy beaches.

Ibiza in particular is regarded as Europe’s ultimate summer clubbing destination. The island plays host to some of the world’s top chill-out bars and dance clubs including Cafe del Mar, Space and Pacha. From June to October, this is where you’ll find the top DJs on the electronic music scene, not to mention thronging crowds of party-crazed revelers.

Sardinia Although Sicily is Italy’s most famous island destination, when it comes to beaches you need to head a bit further west out to sea. Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, has a history of human occupation dating back to the Phoenicians. Here you’ll find ruined cities of Punic columns and colonnaded streets in addition to stately medieval settlements and a few modern commercial hubs.

When it comes to beaches, Sardinia is most definitely a heavy-hitter. The coastline is rough and rugged, with immense caverns that have been slowly carved out by the pounding surf. In gentler stretches, powder-white strips of sand nestle protected grottos and tranquil lagoons. Outside of the resort towns, you can cruise ocean highways in the seat of your favorite Italian sports car.

Greek Islands Something of a right of passage amongst the backpacking set, island-hopping in Greece is all about the pursuit of pleasure. From slow-lunches of feta-strewn salads to late-night tumblers of anise-scented ouzo, Greece is quite literally a feast for the senses.

For those in search of bronze glory, there are more than 6000 Aegean, Ionian, Cycladean and Dodecanese islands to choose from. But if we had to narrow it down a bit more, we’d focus on the following: Mykonos for its beach chic, Kos for its seclusion and serenity, Corfu for its elegant vistas, Santorini for its artistic inspiration and Crete for its archaeological underpinnings.

Hvar For a taste of up and coming Europe, look no further than the northeastern shores of the Adriatic Sea. Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is fringed with pine forests, dotted with red-tiled cities and defined by curvaceous bays and floating islets. Prices are on the rise following the introduction of the euro, yet Croatia still remains an affordable corner of a generally expensive continent.

Anywhere in Dalmatia will do you some good, but we’re personally hooked on Hvar. This limestone island is drenched in sunlight, scented with lavender and home to a burgeoning wine industry. Don’t miss Dubovica Beach, which lies next to a stone-hewn village that appears to have leapt out from the pages of a fairy tale.

Did we leave out one of your favorite European beach destinations? Most likely as there are far too many noteworthy spots to list in one blog post. But that’s why we’re inviting you to chime in and let us know what we missed. Be they classic tourist spots or veritable hidden gems, European beaches might just be some of the most enviable destinations for summer travel.

** All images are courtesy of the Wikicommons Media Project **