Dine on the Queen’s efforts at Tichwell Manor

by Tom Johansmeyer on

The menu at Tichwell Manor has what you’d expect: sea bass, pork loin and sole, among other staples. They are prepared prudently and presented with an aim to impress. The trained eye, however, will find a gem that’s not exactly hidden: organic red poll sirloin. The first label will catch the attention of the environmentally engaged, but “red poll” means much more – the former cow on the plate traces its roots back to the Queen.

Tichwell Manor sits across the street from a sea-adjacent marsh in Norfolk, England. The boutique hotel emphasizes a sense of home, with a teddy bear on every bed and old fashioned metal keys instead of the now ubiquitous key cards. Ostentation is eschewed in favor of the serenely mundane … which seems to be the underlying theme. What elevates Tichwell Manor to brilliant, though, occurs in executive Chef Eric Snaith’s kitchen.

At only 29, Snaith is a surprise in the top culinary job. He took the position to help the hotel’s owners, Ian and Margaret Snaith. Eric is their son, and the first taste of the first course of any of his meals makes it pretty damned clear that he’s doing much more than a favor to the family. The self-trained chef turns standard fare into edible masterpieces through the instinctive use of presentation, ingredient pairing and local sourcing. The last of these evokes plenty of passion from the main man in the kitchen.

[Photo of Sandringham Estate (where the cow used to live) by chris friese on Flickr]

For Snaith, the menu starts as close to home as possible. Herbs are pulled from the on-property garden that several guestrooms face. From there, he tries to stay within a 25-mile radius, as long as the goods are of sufficient quality – for scallops, for example, Snaith has to reach a little farther. The chef believes that it’s important “to have a source [for ingredients] that we can put on the menu.” Provenance matters – from confidence in the food to satisfying the guests.

This is a trend that’s gained importance in Britain over the past several years – provenance has arguably overtaken the other “green” factors considered in the food product space, such as organic. In general, it’s a point of pride, especially for that “red poll” sirloin.

Sandringham Estate lies not far from Tichwell Manor. It bears the distinction of belonging to the Queen (not the state) and is known for the quality of the organic livestock. The meat provided by Sandringham is distributed only to Tichwell Manor and two other restaurants, making it a rare product. Snaith balances the red poll sirloin with peas, oxtail, horseradish and risotto to craft an experience that is not to be missed.

You can find a solid executive chef at any number of English hotels, and Snaith measures up. But, Tichwell Manor is where you’ll come closest to dining with the Queen.

Disclosure: Visit Britain shelled out some cash for this experience, and British Airways supplied the flights.

Ardeonaig: South Africa in Scotland

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Tucked away in Loch Tay is Scotland‘s best-kept secret. Ardeonaig brings a touch of South Africa to the simultaneously rough and enchanting countryside, fusing two cultures that one would not expect to see interwoven. The resort offers only a couple dozen rooms, most of which are freestanding thatch-roofed cottages scattered across the property. Each is quite large, accommodating two with plenty of space, and the small accompanying patios give you a chance to soak in the crisp local air.

Every inch of Ardeonaig offers a glimpse into the life of owner and executive chef Pete Gottgens. The rooms are named for friends and family members, a nice alternative to the room numbers that we’ve come to expect. In the main building, large photographs from Gottgens’ childhood line the walls, along with original paintings by his sister. Several living room-style lounges are offered, where you can relax with an espresso or glass of wine. It’s about as far as you can get from traditional hotel chains.

To understand the essence of Ardeonaig, you have to look past the guestrooms and lounges and sit for a meal. Seating is available in two rooms, which are served by the same kitchen. Don’t look for a static menu: the contents change daily. Gottgens serves what is fresh, so he is constrained by availability – though when you see what he creates, it’s hard to imagine limits. Carefully planned meals reflect an expertise honed over decades. The lessons began when Gottgens was a teenager, leaving South Africa to wash dishes in Switzerland. He later left for London, where he refined his culinary skills and ultimately opened a series of restaurants – catching the attention of Nelson Mandela along the way. In fact, “chef,” as he is called, became the civil rights leader’s preferred chef in London and engaged him to prepare meals for various official events.

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Gottgens, while in London, would disappear to Perthshire, when possible, to fish in the quiet surroundings afforded by the Scottish countryside. One day, he flipped through real estate listings – with no particular plans to act – and saw an ad for a vacant hotel. On a whim, he decided to take a look … and fell in love. Another bidder beat him for the property, but it only took three months for the buyer to become seller. Chef scrounged the down payment, hoping to satisfy the difference through operations (which, fortunately, he was able to do).

While every aspect of the guest experience is a priority, the kitchen is understandably Gottgens’ domain. He appears in alleys in the dark hours of the morning to meet fishermen and their latest catches. What they bring to tk is what comprises the menu. A local hunter who carries hares to the back door defines the evening meal.

The one constant at Ardeonaig is the wine. Lifelong relationships give Gottgens access to small batch wines that are hard to come by. Because of this, pairing is difficult. Unlike most chefs, he’s happy to alter his style to match the wine, “respecting the effort” that has already been bottled. The wine is already there, he says, so it only makes sense for him to consider it when he sets to work.

For at least one meal, dine at the chef’s table, situated in the immaculate kitchen. Gottgens is more than happy to showcase his team’s work as it occurs and hides nothing. The secret ingredients are the vast knowledge and profound energy that he brings to his craft. Neither can be replicated.

The kitchen closes when the last guest arrives, a rule that tk has imposed and by which he abides. From a hospitality perspective, Gottgens doesn’t want guests to arrive and go to bed hungry. He concedes, however, that there’s an economic reason, as well. “If you’re going to eat somewhere else or eat here, we’d rather have you eat here.”

When you’ve finished your evening meal – whatever the hour – you can walk to your cottage or be driven by a golf cart. Sensors turn the exterior lights on as you approach. Climb into your large, warm, soft, bed, and start to dream about what Gottgens will serve for breakfast.

[Photos thanks to Ardeonaig]

Continental’s Restaurant Week could increase revenue

by Tom Johansmeyer on

On its face, Continental Airlines’ participation in International Restaurant Week seems like just another promotion. Think harder, though, and you’ll see that it’s really a way for the airline to bring in a little extra cash. Since passengers with a bit of extra girth may be charged for an extra seat, it only makes sense to fatten up fliers and reap the rewards.

A dozen New York restaurants are participating in 2009 International Restaurant week this year, which stretches from today to May 10, 2009. Continental chose these restaurants because they replicate the cuisine from some of the airline’s top destinations. A first, each restaurant will create a signature dish, and diners can rate the offerings (by May 10), with the winning restaurant netting $25,000 for the charity of its choice.

“We are thrilled to have Chef Tom Colicchio as our judge for this year’s Signature Dish contest and look forward to tasting the winning dish,” says Mark Bergsrud, Continental’s senior vice president marketing programs and distribution. He continues, “While we certainly love bringing New Yorkers to each of our international destinations to experience exquisite cuisine first-hand, we’re excited to offer International Restaurant Week and create authentic dining experiences for our customers that don’t require a plane ticket.”

Guests can use the Continental Airlines International Restaurant Week website to make restaurant reservations and take advantage of special offers.

Participating restaurants and details are after the jump.

Alfama (Portugal) – Diners will experience an authentic 4-course meal, ending with a glass of port from Alfama’s extensive collection, included with the meal. They’ll also take home a box of Pasteis de nata, traditional Portuguese custard cakes.

Allen & Delancey (United Kingdom) – After enjoying Chef Kyle Bailey’s 5-course meal and specially designed signature dish, guests will be able to recreate the experience with Chef’s signature dish recipe and a package of couscous.

Avra (Greece) – For a truly personalized experience, a manager will help design a menu for each reservation, providing insight into the menu and wine pairings. Guests will take home some Greek delicacies chosen by the Avra team.

Boqueria (Spain) – While there, diners will get to know Chef Seamus Mullen as they enjoy his specially designed shared tasting menus – for lunch or dinner. Each diner will receive a complimentary bag of house-made candied Marcona almonds.

China Grill (China) – Guests will enjoy an exclusive 5-course tasting menu created by Chef Jamie Knott, with a specially paired cocktail included in the meal. Each diner will also take home a box of delicious ginger and almond cookies.

Delmonico’s (United States) – After enjoying an exclusively designed menu featuring Delmonico’s most famous dishes, diners will take a personal tour of the restaurant, a National Historic Landmark, and take home a complimentary signed copy of the cookbook Dining at Delmonico’s.

Del Posto (Italy) – Diners will be invited to tour Del Posto’s extensive wine cellar and bring a taste of the restaurant home with a special gift bag filled with the chef’s favorite Italian delicacies.

L’Ecole (France) – Guests will begin the evening with a behind the scenes look at L’Ecole’s teaching kitchens. After, they’ll indulge in a unique dessert and cocktail featuring rare Grapefruit Thai Basil Tea, included with the meal. Diners will take home a sample of the exotic tea along with the recipe, to recreate the experience at home.

Maya (Mexico) – Chef Sandoval offers a uniquely designed 3-course Cinco de Mayo menu with special beverage pairings. Diners will be gifted with a complimentary signed copy of his cookbook Modern Mexican Flavors.

Nobu (Japan) – Nobu’s talented chefs will kick start the meal with a complimentary Chef’s Selection Amuse-Gueule. Diners will finish on a sweet note too, with a signature fruit sake or shochu, included with the meal.

Plataforma (Brazil) – Guests will go behind the scenes on a tour of the kitchen with one of Plataforma’s Master Carvers. Every table will be gifted a complimentary caipirinha making kit to bring home a taste of this traditional Brazilian cocktail.

Tabla (India) – Guests will be invited to take a personally guided tour of Tabla’s kitchen. After savoring an exclusively designed 4-course prix fixe menu with an optional wine pairing to match, they’ll take home one of Pastry Chef Melissa Walnock’s uniquely designed desserts, packaged along with the recipe.

New York’s Eating Scene Gets Cheap

by Josh Lew on

After you return home from your trip to New York City, what are people going to ask you? Did you see the Statue of Liberty? Did you ride the subway? Did you eat at one of those restaurants?

Your answers in order might be: Yes, yes, and it was just too damn expensive.

Eating in New York is pricey, especially if you want to go for the complete experience at the high end. For the remainder of July, though, more than 200 of the city’s restaurateurs will celebrate NYC Summer Restaurant Week by making their product more accessible to the hot-dog-cart-frequenting, subway-riding masses.

Meal prices are set at $24.07 for lunch and $35.00 for dinner. Sadly, that does not include beverages, tax, or tip.

The best aspect of Restaurant Week is that it is not confined to one neighborhood of the city or one type of cuisine. Diners can try funky fusion dishes at Vong’s in Midtown, rub shoulders with New York tend-setters at the TriBeCa Grill, or swirl pasta on their forks at Centovini in SoHo.

It’s probably best to get reservations at one of the many participating restaurants. That is unless you are prepared to pay a hefty bribe to the maitre d’.

Those who don’t care for the heat of New York in summertime can wait for NYC Winter Restaurant Week, which is normally held in late January.

Photo via Flickr user Plate of the Day

Oxtail Stew

by Adrienne Wilson on

Over the weekend my mother made some delicious oxtail stew. I slurped up the soup/stew base and noshed on the oxtails quietly with an extreme amount of guilt. Normally I’d sling back oxtails like it were broccoli or brussel sprouts, but all my marathon preparation and running has me feeling as if oxtails don’t quite make winning race formula. I should be eating fish, veggies, chicken and avoiding the hard to digest red-meats, pork and oxtail according to training know-it-all’s. And I’ll tell you this – I can’t wait until the race is over so I can fire all the know-it-alls and sit in my mama’s warm kitchen guilt-free.

In the meantime I figured Oxtail Stew isn’t the kind of dish shared by all cultures and people, but anyone wanting to try eating or cooking can start with these two recipes. The first from Jamaicans.com includes an assortment of veggies along with butter beans where this second recipe is accompanied by one man’s tale on how he fell in love with the stew on chilly days in the Alps. Erik, who creates the recipe from memory, suggests having some Pilsner around to wash the oxtail stew down. The photo above comes from Jamaicans.com, but Erik’s descriptions (without pictures) make me want to try his first. Check out the two options and tell us about your first encounter with oxtail stew. Was it in mama’s kitchen or someplace like the Alps?

Yum.