How to be a good dinner guest in France

by Martha Edwards on

My dad lived the high life in Europe for a good chunk of his adult life, and as a Commanding Officer for the Royal Canadian Air Forces, he was treated to many fine dinners at many fine establishments. So you can imagine the lectures I got when I put my elbows on the table or, heaven forbid, asked for ketchup for my food. “If you ask for ketchup in Paris, you’d get kicked out of the restaurant,” he’d say as I rolled my eyes.

As painful as it was when I was a surly teenager, I’m kind of glad for the etiquette lessons of my youth because I it gives me the chance to escape being labelled a stereotypically rude North American when travelling. Still, it can’t hurt to brush up on table manners. Here are some tips for being a good dinner guest in France from MSNBC:

  • Don’t arrive exactly on time for a dinner party. Come about 15 minutes to half an hour late
  • Don’t bring wine — it implies that you don’t trust the host’s selection. Bring sweets or flowers — but not chrysanthemums (they signify death) and not yellow ones (they signify an unfaithful husband)
  • Men should wear nice jackets to dinner and women should wear high heels
  • Always keep your hands on the table, but not the elbows.
  • When greeting, women can kiss women and women can kiss men, but two men should never kiss so save yourself the embarrassment of leaning in (cringe!) If you’re in Alsace or Brittany, be prepared for up to three kisses but don’t initiate them yourself.
  • Never pour your own wine at a restaurant. Want water? You’ll have to ask.
  • Eat asparagus with your fingers and use your digits to get shellfish out of the shell, but otherwise use your utensils.
  • Always eat with your fork in the left hand, knife in the right. And hold your fork properly — it’s not a shovel!
  • If it’s a five-course meal, the only course you can refuse is the fourth one (aka, the Cheese course.) If you have dietary restrictions, let them know beforehand because it’s uncouth to refuse anything.
  • Don’t cut your salad — roll it with your fork.

Haiti Part 2: Kreyól Cuisine

by Adrienne Wilson on


One might imagine that food and its preparation between each Caribbean island couldn’t possibly vary drastically in taste, but then one would be wrong. I’ve learned now through an odd handful of islands visited; St. Lucia, Bahamas, Trinidad & Tobago and now Haiti, that the art and science of cooking and eating a good meal on each is an experience of its own. No where else have I been able to feast upon conch salad the way I had in the Bahamas or the doubles and roti found in T&T and in Haiti, Creole cabrit, picklise, and lambi. The islands are without a doubt full of flavors. I’m sure I did not come close to taste-testing every Haitian delight on the menu or even the grilled corn on the cob which I longed for from one of the street vendors, but what I have here is only a glance of what savory, mouth-watering dishes await the visitor hoping to dig into Kreyól Cuisine during a weekend, week or months stay in the country.

Pasta Nostra was not the first sit down restaurant I dined at, but it easily became my favorite. It possibly was the story behind the place alone that won my affection. As the story goes the breath-taking, beautiful mademoiselle pictured above had once been involved with an Italian man who taught her the art of cooking pasta and other Italian dishes. While the man in the story is somewhat of a ghost now, the beautiful chef can still be found preparing fresh seafood and pasta dishes across from the quiet beach of Ti Mouillage.

The establishment is cool, casual and comfortable like most situated next to the beach. Wooden chairs and tables sit atop of a small deck and small, bright, colorful artwork hangs from the wooden pools along the restaurant. Come before you feel you will absolutely faint of hunger because it is a one-woman operation in the kitchen and so it will be a moment before the food arrives. If you’ve come all the way to Haiti only to sample items typical to the country and wish not to have what I call ‘Italian fare remixed’ there is enough delicious fresh seafood to fill you right on up and if you weren’t aware – seafood is pretty typical for most islands.

On my plate: Grilled red snapper with plantains covered in a spicy red leafy sauce. The fish was cooked wonderfully and the sauce (I cannot remember the name – pictured below) had the right amount of kick. My companions all had the same with the exception of one who sampled the lobster and noted it was delicious. To wash it all down I sipped on cold cherry juice which I expressed some initial skepticism over as I’m not wild about cherry flavored foods/beverages in the States, yet the taste of cherry in Haiti is much different. The gelato featured on the desert menu was not available, so I skipped on having sweets afterwards. The rest of the bunch ordered crepes, which I took only a bite of found tasty as well. After you’ve refueled head across to the beach for a snooze underneath the island sun. ($$)

Pasta Nostra is located in Ti Mouillage, up the road from Jacmel. Ph. 509.453.3413

The restaurant at Hotel Cyvadier was the first I ate at and found the food appetizing. It wasn’t until we’d made the long three hour drive from Port-au-Prince and got all checked in did I finally rest my limbs and gobble down my first real meal. The restaurant as best described on the hotel website ‘seats up to 70 people and specializes in a diverse variety of fish, crawfish and lobster delivered daily from the local fishermen.’ The atmosphere is casual for breakfast and lunch which were the only two times I actually dined at the Cyvadier. Views of the hotel, swimming pool and the alluring Cyadier Plage (beach) can all be seen from the restaurant.

On my breakfast plate: I usually went the light way for breakfast having fruits (mango, banana, pineapple and/or melon) and bread with confiture (jelly or peanut butter). Simple and yummy! On the lunch plate: Spaghetti with ham and onions. If my memory serves me correctly I believe it may have been called Creole spaghetti, but I could also be wrong. For the first meal it wasn’t too bad. It was not mind-blowing, but highly satisfying. I would have liked to have explored other dishes on the menu, but didn’t want to stick exclusively to the hotel restaurant. ($$$)

Hotel Cyvadier Restaurant Plage is located in Jacmel off of Avenue Baranquilla in the direction towards Marigot. Ph. 509.288.3323

Ambiance was the dinner stop right before heading out to the second night of Festival Mizik Jakmel. It sits on the second floor above a business which I did not bother taking notice of and has a nice view of the activity taking place on the streets below. There isn’t a ton of ‘ambiance’ with the speeding motor ‘taxi’ bikes passing along, but once your meal is served you forget about all that is surrounding you including the screeching tires. The dishes took a while to prepare and by the time my Cabrit Creole (Creole goat) arrived I had lost the sense to take a photo of it and instead dug right in.

It was accompanied by a small field salad and a plate of red beans and rice far to large for me to tackle alone. The goat itself was very tasty and the meat was falling off the bone. Considering how different the taste was from the curry goat I’d had in T&T so many times and how easy it was to rip right into the meal I questioned whether I was truly having goat, but only for a short few seconds. I cannot recall what was on everyone else’s plate, but the overall reaction to the food was a good one. ($$)

Ambiance is located at Avenue Baranquilla, Jacmel, Haiti. Ph. 509.288.3067

There were a few things on my wish list that I still hadn’t eaten and I didn’t want to wait anymore. I had been told about how delicious the picklese and Creole lambi was in Haiti and I didn’t want to miss either and in the process I still managed to miss one. The last sit-down spot where I had the opportunity and sadly failed was at Le Lambi Beach Hotel near Carrefour.

Le Lambi is HUGE! It was by far the biggest place we’d been to and during the time of our visit one of the quietest. It was obvious the restaurant had been there for ages as it was decorated from every inch of the ceiling in colorful baskets and every inch of the walls in conch shells. When you walk in your attention is split between the dance floor to the right and the open floor in the center where one can look down into the sea beneath. Old kompa tunes hum from the stereo system calling music lovers to the dance floor on a packed night I’m sure, but for lunch every patron in the restaurant was either far too hungry or too relaxed. I was so thrilled that they had picklese (a chopped cabbage in an extra delectable vinegar dressing) that I made the mistake of ordering my lambi grille
d and not the typical way which is served in Creole sauces.

When my meal arrived I looked down at what seemed like an appetizer. My companions then confessed that they’d never eaten the lambi (conch) grilled before and always order it in Creole sauce. I thought to myself why they hadn’t shared that valuable information before I ordered and let it slide as they were probably only trying to provide me with a reason to come back. In the end the grilled lambi was ‘OK’ and the picklese amazing! In fact I had everyone else’s picklese too. They were more than happy to share. And yes, I must finish what I started and return to sample more. ($$)

Le Lambi Beach Hotel is located in/near Carrefour at Mariani Mer Frayyte, Haiti. Ph. 509.234.0272

Dollar Guide: ($) Under U.S. $10 ($$) Under U.S. $20 ($$$) Over U.S. $20. While some restaurants are pricey and there is much street food to devour there are cheap tasty items on most if not all menus. Menu prices are noted in Haitian dollars (which do not actually exist) and can be paid for in Gourdes or U.S. dollars. To get the price in Gourdes multiply the Haitian dollar amount by five. For the price in U.S. dollars divide the amount of Gourdes by the going exchange rate approx 35-37. After you’ve done all the math treat yourself to a cocktail.

Want to go cheaper and hit the streets! Go for it! Among most busy town roadsides you can find chicken, plantains, sugarcane, juices, you name it! Just be careful to always have bottled water.









Yesterday: A Country with a VERY Bad Reputation
Tomorrow: Hotel Cyvadier & Other Jacmel Hotels

St. Lucia There & Back Part 2: Island Dining

by Adrienne Wilson on


Before I dive into this one or give the impression that I am this hardcore food critic let me just state that I am not. Someone once claimed that I happiest while I’m eating which I’m not certain is entirely true, but I do love a flavorful fulfilling meal when it’s time to chow. That being said, I’m not a picky eater. There are only a few things I won’t eat like lobster, crab, and liver and that is only by personal choice. Now, I don’t go parading the town thinking I’m some kind of ‘foodie’ either, but I do like discovering new things on my trips and travels. In St. Lucia I asked several times if there was something that could only be feasted upon here or what the island was known for in the culinary department like the Bahamas for its conch salad and Trinidad for its roti, but my questions were received with blank stares.

Without any strong restaurant recommendations I either used the local St. Lucia magazines or turned to the closest place at first hint of a stomach growl. Lets go to the kitchen. I mean follow me into my Looshan dining experience.
My first meal and several others to follow where at the Calabash Bar and the La Pomme Canelle Restaurant found in the Glencastle Resort where I camped out for the week. It was never my intentions to eat so much there, but the chef was truly amazing. Everything I had from the curried chicken, shrimp and a certain fish that I cannot recall the name was absolutely ambrosial. Convenience played a huge factor in my dining there as well with it being a few steps down the stairs from my room. However, if you are searching for a good meal with good service outside of the main attraction give this place a try. ($$)

La Pomme Canelle Restaurant is located in Massade, Gros Islet at the Glencastle Resort. Ph. 758.450.0833

Next place up is a restaurant (you will hate me for this) that I did not get the name of, but was directed to by a Rasta Man who said he found it more Creole than the one across the road (The Lime.) So if you want to head to this one look across the street from the Lime Restaurant and next to the Inner Gallery in Rodney Bay. You’ll see a small outdoors place serving a ton of yummy Creole selections. Take a few friends as atmosphere doesn’t count for much considering its outdoors and in the center of a few small buildings and shops. Try the green banana and fish salad if you’ve never had it before. I found this very tasty from place to place. ($)

I found my way into Spinnakers Beach Bar & Grill for the first time simply searching for an ice cold blended beverage to cool me off from the hot-hot Saint Lucia sunrays. The next time I worked my way in I was having a full lunch entree. The Lemon Pepper Fish with salad was what I went after and with some amount of skepticism. I thought I had just settled into one of those high-priced tourist spots on the beach where the food was only mediocre, but I was very surprised. The fish was actually really, really good. It was covered in a lemon sauce and with just a sprinkle of some extra pepper my taste-buds were soaring. The service was only so-so and it was still a little pricey for lunch ($25 US) which includes two glasses of pineapple juice. Certainly worth a go if you’re on the beach anyway. ($$)

Spinnakers is loacted on Rodney Bay Beach off of Reduit Drive in Rodney Bay. Ph. 758.452.8491

Castaways are another Rodney Bay based restaurant. I swung in here for lunch on a different occasion and ordered a tuna melt with a side of slaw. While waiting I made conversation with the staff who were all pretty friendly and welcoming. I sipped on a cool passion fruit drink and when my meal came I gobbled it down. The tuna melt here has got to be one of the best I have ever had in my life. It was just a little greasy, but that is my looking for flaws when really it was very delicious. The cole slaw was okay and the portion size was beyond what I anticipated so I walked off only eating half of it. Bring a friend if you plan on ordering the slaw. There are several other items on the menu to choose from, but the seafood selections are all highly advised. ($-$$)

Castaways Restaurant and Bar is located in Rodney Bay off of Reduit Drive. Ph. 758.452.8012

The Marine House is a spot serving local dishes and for very good prices. I tried this place on two different occasions. The first time I ordered fish n’ chips and that was only okay. Nothing mind blowing there and the fish could have been cooked much better. The second time I went with chicken roti which I think I’ll be sticking with at Trinidadian owned and operated spots. The roti was only so-so. In short, this is a good place to fill up if you are on a super tight budget and just need something fast. ($)

The Marine House is located in Gros Islet off the main road. Ph. 758.450.8515

Last dining destination I gave a try was Cafe Olé tucked in the Rodney Bay Marina and Shops in Gros Islet. It is a place all the sailors go and any with a boat goes to fill up after sailing the seas or goes to recruit a crew to set out later in the afternoon. (I was invited to go sailing, but had to decline.) There are beautiful tiny flirty island girls working behind the counter that wink at the boys and give half smiles to women like me. They are nice and the service is good and it is a cool place to people watch if you are in to that sort of thing. Again, I went with a tuna dish. It was the sweet and spicy tuna salad to be exact and I had a fruit smoothie to wash it down. The salad was filling and tasty too. The smoothie was too syrupy for my liking. ($)

There are a few places on the North island area that I did not make it to which I am told where worth a try like Ku De Ta (Thai Cuisine) and Razmataz Tandoori (Indian). I am sure there are several others I failed to get to, but one last thing I forgot to mention earlier was I didn’t have a botttomless budget for food so places like Big Chef in Rodney Bay were a little out of the question for this trip, but there is always next time.

For my thoughts on where not to eat click here and scroll all the way down.





Review: Charleston’s Magnolias Restaurant

by Adrienne Wilson on


Around this time last month I found myself in Charleston, South Carolina. It was my very first time in the city and in the state on a short visit to my father’s new place a little ways outside of the area. While my dad was packed with recommendations of places to go and things to do in the city, I – still on my mission to strike out as many places as possible in the 1,000 Places to See Before You Die guide book written by Patricia Shultz requested that we take a trip over to Magnolias.

From my understanding Magnolia’s is supposed to be one of the best restaurants in all the Low Country offering eclectic Southern comfort cuisine. I’ll give them the eclectic part, but with a little extra time I’m sure I could discover much more mouthwatering dishes in the area. Reservations are strongly recommended and we made ours a day in advance for lunch since we didn’t get the memo for dinner the night before. I’m not sure if everyone is reading Ms. Schultz book along with me or if this is a real fine and great meeting and greeting place for the folks in the East Bay area, but it gets PACKED. When we walked in we were welcomed with an extra large smile from the hostess who seated us at a cozy table in the center. The interior is down home elegant, which basically means being a tad dressy and wearing your big Sunday hat if you’re a lady is absolutely okay or a pair of jeans and a nice shirt can impress just as well. (Note: Nice jeans)After driving and walking around various parts of the Charleston area my appetite had reached its peak so we gladly started with a couple of appetizers. The Down South Egg Rolls caught my attention and my father ordered the Pan Fried Chicken Livers for his own. I won’t critique the livers which I tried, but have never been a fan of liver in general so let’s move to these egg rolls. Stuffed with collard greens, chicken and tasso they are served with red pepper puree, spicy mustard sauce and peach chutney. Yum! Really they were! I was a little skeptical at first, but they did a good job pulling all the ingredients together for this one. They were not too spicy and only a little sweet, so you get the best of both worlds. I devoured the two tasty morsels in two bites.

Onto the main course, I went with the Blackened Mahi and my dad had the Fried Catfish. The mahi was accompanied by a spicy tasso ham risotto cake, sautéed spinach, sweet corn relish and a creole remoulade. For some reason I was all over the tasso ham risotto biz, but the mahi left me a little unsatisfied. It wasn’t firm and came off a bit water-logged. I finished it all up from hunger, but I think I’d pass on the mahi for something else next round. I only had a small sampling of the fried catfish so I will again pass on providing any further thoughts.

Go before you die? I think you’d be fine on waiting to hit this one or missing it completely. Nice place, good service, decent southern food at mid range prices ($15-$35 lunch). Magnolias is located at: 185 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC 29401 Ph. 843.577.7771 extension 1.

Photo of the Day (1/6/07)

by Adrienne Wilson on


If I’m not mistaken I’ve posted some of Moody75’s delicious dining pictures in the past. Perhaps we share a common interest in photographing our plates and maybe I am just a little bit hungry when selecting them, but they really do give you a sense of place. Something like this could surely be found in a French restaurant in NY someone, but Moody75 was lucky enough to nosh and photograph the brunch while in Nice, France. All I can say is yum and I think I’ll be heading to my kitchen now.