After completing our walking tour of South Beach’s Art Deco District, we grabbed some lunch and headed to Florida International University’s Wolfsonian Museum. Established in 1992 by Mitchell Wolfson, Jr., to house his large and eclectic personal art collection, The Wolf’s exhibits currently occupy 4 floors in a beautifully-renovated warehouse.
While the Museum features revolving exhibits, we really wanted to see the permanent collection, which is 100,000 pieces strong. Amusingly — yet appropriately — this part of the Museum is referred to as The Museum of Thinkism.
Originally built in 1927, the former storage facility is located in downtown South Beach, right on Washington Avenue.
I love the intricate detailing around the entryway.
Upon entering the lobby, visitors are greeted with an open space.
The odd juxtaposition of extravagant, decadent art and pop surrealism prepares you for the collection.
There is no photography allowed above the lobby. This is the guard who enforces the rule.
Gargoyle heads watch over visitors riding in the elevator.
The idea behind Thinkism is contained in Wolfson’s phrase, “What man makes, makes man.” In other words, by examining the products, propaganda, and artwork that people have created over the years — and thinking about them — we can begin to understand objects as human ideas, concerns, and aspirations and start to understand why the world looks the way it does.
It’s more than just looking at a beautiful painting; it’s about considering an object, thinking about where and why it was made, and what role it plays in society. In this way, we make connections among everything in the world, and come to realize that everything is inter-connected. Everything. From old book covers to old stoves…
…from wartime posters to old post office boxes…
…from Turkish folding chars to New Deal murals…
…everything shows how people look at and interact with the rest of the world. It was a fascinating and fun exhibit, and for $7 apiece, it was cash well-spent. For more examples of the items inside the Museum, check out Gallagher’s Travels or, of course, the Museum’s website.
After Thinking so much, we were famished, so we headed to the Museum’s store/cafe, The Dynamo Cafe. Designed to feel like an old-timey European bookstore…
…with its modular design, it has a very modern feel.
The Dynamo offers a great assortment of teas, coffees, snacks, and sandwiches — all of which have been getting rave reviews lately. I had some excellent Chai Tea, while my wife enjoyed some Lemongrass Tea. (For the record, mine was better.)
It was an excellent way to relax after thinking so hard. But now…it was time to check into the hotel and get changed for some beach-time!
Right in the heart of Ocean Drive — smack dab in the middle of the Art Deco District — sits this building. With pastel flashes of color surrounding it, this 12-bedroom, 13-bathroom Mediterranean Revival home, in all its cream-colored glory is probably the most famous building on the strip. It’s certainly the most photographed. What is it? It’s Casa Casuarina, of course.
Casa Casurina was built in 1935 and features a gorgeous oolitic limestone entryway and stairs, and a Cuban barrel tile roof (each tile of which is rumored to have been molded on the thighs of beautiful Cuban maidens). A replica of the home in the Dominican Republic in which Christopher Columbus’ eldest son lived (La Casa del Cordon), Casa Casuarina is also where Versace took his last breath. He was gunned down on the front steps of this building by Andrew Cunanan in 1997.
Gianni Versace purchased the building in 1992 for $2.9 million and renovated it substantially. Peter Loftin, a telecommunications billionaire, purchased it in 2000 for approximately $19 million and is converting it into an “invitation only B&B” (for around $2500/night). Alternatively, the entire house is available for private events — at a cost of $10,000 a night.
I’m sad to announce that flashing my Gadling Press Pass did NOT grant me access to the interior. Sorry. But you can take a sneak peak at the home’s elegant appointments here.
My wife and I have have spent plenty of time in Miami over the past two years — but always as a day-trip. Recently, we decided to pack our bags and head to the Magic City for a weekend.
So what exactly is “Art Deco”? It’s a style of architecture that developed during the early 1900s that usually combines straight lines, symmetry, and geometric shapes. In its hey-day, it was viewed as decorative, elegant, and modern. Today, it’s super-fanciful, and almost over-the-top ornate. A prime example of Art Deco is the Clevelander, one of South beach’s most famous landmarks and a fairly hip nightspot — if you don’t mind a bunch of college-aged kids.
When we arrived in South Beach, we headed to the Miami Design Preservation League. Though I don’t usually enjoy organized tours much, I signed up for one of theirs. I was curious to learn something about the history of this whimsical area, generally, and something about Art Deco, specifically. At $20 per person, the price of tour is money well-spent, as the volunteers are both knowledgeable and passionate about the subject.
Come with me, as I give you an abbreviated, virtual tour:
We arrived at the MDPL just in time for the 10:30 tour.
Adjacent to Lummus Park Beach…
…our guide explained that South Beach’s Art Deco District is the oldest 20th Century architectural historic district in the nation. Before we even left the MDPL’s property, we turned and saw the Edison Hotel. Note the clean, symmetrical lines.
From there, we walked by the Beach Patrol.
Still in use today, the Beach patrol Building was built in 1938. Evidently, it was designed to make people who couldn’t afford to go on an ocean liner feel like they were somewhere tropical and faraway. Obviously, you can’t miss the Patrol’s nautical theme. Portholes figure prominently in lots of Art Deco.
Rounding the corner, we headed back to the Clevelander. Built in 1938, the Rattner family sold the building in the 1980s for $800,000. In 2001, it was sold again for $16 million. Of course, the pool had been added and the building upgraded, but still…
Walking north, we passed the Congress Hotel. See the “eyebrows” above the windows? These are important components of Art Deco. At the time, they were incorporated to keep out the rain — and the sun. Of course, there was no A/C in the area at that time. In this picture, you can see how symmetrical the building is. Have you also begun to get the sense of the importance of the “rule of threes” in the architectural style?
Built in 1937, the Victor has no eyebrows, but you can see that symmetry and straight lines are still important in the design. Originally, the Victor was NOT connected to the left-hand building. Interestingly, there’s a pool above the entryway between the two buildings. If you look very, very closely, you can see the topless woman sunning herself, just to left of the largest palm tree. Not that I was looking…
Today, there’s a semi-circle ballroom/lounge attached to the right-hand-side of the Victor.
A little north of the Victor is the Tides. Built in 1936, this is, reportedly J Lo’s favorite place to brunch. She wasn’t there this morning, though. Around the entryway, you can make out the oolitic limestone that designers favored during this period. Of course, oolitic limestone is not used today, as it’s harvested from the ocean and damages the environment. See the portholes?
Very square and symmetrical, the Leslie is next. Note the Zigaruts, which are the vertical “racing stripes” that shoot skyward. These are used to hide unsightly roof lines. Lots of Art Deco buildings incorporate these.
Next up: the Carlyle. Though still Art Deco-y, you can see how by 1941, architects were steering away from straight lines and were incorporating curved lines into their buildings. See the sweeping eyebrows? Note that the “rule of threes” is still adhered to, though.
Recognize the Carlyle? It was featured in The Birdcage.
What about this building? It was featured in There’s Something About Mary. Can you tell how Art Deco is getting softer and curvier? This is the Cordoza Hotel, owned by Gloria Estefan. (BTW, the blond in the lower right corner of the image is our guide.)
Another angle.
And moving on…
…we pass the Cavalier…
… and come to the Winter Haven, at one time owned by Al Capone.
Note the classic elements of Art Deco design in the building: the threes, the straight lines, the Zigaruts (modified, apparently, to look like waves).
We decided to go inside and have a look around.
Completely restored, the Winter Haven looks very much like it did when it was built in 1938.
Back outside, we noticed that even the beach’s bathrooms look Art Deco.
Of course, there were more buildings to see on the tour, and I’ll show them to you, but this — by and large — marks the end of the strip of “classic” Art Deco buildings.
As I mentioned, this tour is highly recommended, as you learn all sorts of interesting tid-bits. For example:
The phrase “Art Deco” was used first in 1966.
Up until the 1980s, Art Deco buildings were not painted bright pastels. When Michael Mann was shooting Miami Vice, he thought the scenery would have more pop if the buildings were brightly colored. Consequently, he told property owners that if they painted their exteriors, the buildings would be on TV. They obliged, and the rest is history. Today, South Beach is the second-most-visited part of Florida — right behind Disney. Who knows what the area would look like if Mann hadn’t spoken up?
If you’re heading to the west coast of Florida, you should schedule some extra time to explore the Great Calusa Blueway Paddling Trail. Running along the shores of Fort Myers and Sanibel Island, paddlers can enjoy spectacular views of the area’s nature preserves from the warm Gulf waters of Estero Bay. Dotted with mangroves that provide sanctuary for over 300 species of birds as well as multitudes of sea and animal life, including — if you’re lucky — manatees and dolphins, the area is a Nature Lover’s Paradise and a haven for those who long for a little slow travel. Numerous outfitters in the area offer guided trips, but for independent travelers, there are abundant rentals and launch areas; trail maps and GPS coordinates are also available.
On April 23rd, the Conch Republic will officially celebrate its 25th Anniversary as a free nation. Okay, so the Conch Republic — more commonly known as Key West — isn’t really a free nation, though they did make a much publicized attempt at secession in 1982 after border patrol agents set up road blocks to search for drugs and illegal immigrants. Even today, the Republic uses the motto, “We Seceded Where Others Failed.” Every April, the Republic celebrates its independence. This year, they plan to go all out.
If you can get yourselves down to the area in time, you can be part of the festivities. Beginning April 20th and running through the 29th, the City will be sponsoring numerous events, including:
FRIDAY, APRIL 20th — A Kick-Off Party at the Schooner Wharf Bar, featuring a Conch Shell Blowing Contest.
SATURDAY, APRIL 21st — The Great Conch Republic Drag Race. Sanctioned by the Conch Republic’s NHRA (Natural Hot Rod Association), the race features Drag Queens. Pits open at 12; Foam wrestling at bubbles over at 5. At 8, The Green Parrot will elect the 2006-2007 Conch Republic Royal Family.
THURSDAY, APRIL 26th — For the 12th year in a row, the Republic’s only totally impromptu Parade — The “World’s Longest Parade” — will roll down Duval Street from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico. How can it be impromptu if we all know about it? You’ll see…
FRIDAY, APRIL 27th — The City will stage a mock battle in which it emerges victorious from enemy forces. The event includes cannon-firings, a raising of the flag, and lots of beer drinking.
SATURDAY, APRIL 28th — The Fairvilla Megastore Annual Conch Republic Red Ribbon Bed Race will be staged. What?! You’ve never seen beds race down narrow roads? You have not lived, sir. Later that night, you can crash Sloppy Joe’s Post Bed Race Pajama Party…since you’re already dressed for bed!
There are actually way more events than this planned. If you’re interested, check out the schedule!