Exploring the Florida Keys by personal watercraft

The Florida Keys are a bit of a hidden gem. Sure, Florida is a well known, and much loved, tourist destination, but the Keys dangle at he far southern end, stretching out into the sea, forming a barrier between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Many travelers never make it that far south, preferring to stop in the theme park that is Orlando or maybe wander down to Miami for the never ending beach party there.

Those who do make the trip south along scenic U.S. Highway 1 will be treated to quite a destination. The Keys are a fantastic mix of deep south hospitality and Caribbean charm that blends well to give the place its own unique feel. The islands have a laid back vibe that is quite contagious, and after just a day or two, you’ll be shopping for real estate and contemplating making a permanent move.

The more than 1700 islands that make up the Keys are sprinkled throughout the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, a 2800-square nautical mile area that stretches from the Atlantic to the Bay of Florida, and on to the Gulf itself. The Sanctuary boasts the third largest barrier reef in the world, and the only one of its kind in North America. It also happens to be home to more than 1800 different species of plants and animals, including sprawling fields of seagrass and thick copses of mangrove trees surrounded by beautiful deep blue waters.

The Marine Sanctuary is a place that begs to be explored, both above and below the water, and on a recent visit to the Keys, I was introduced to the perfect way to take in the sights there. Aboard a personal watercraft, aka a “jet ski”, visitors to the Sanctuary are able to gain access to places that are typically unreachable by any other means. The small, but powerful, vehicles are quick and agile in tight quarters, but really fast on the open water, and best of all, they’re simply a blast to ride. Especially in a setting as amazing as the Keys.
Now, I know what you’re thinking. Aren’t those personal watercraft incredibly bad for the environment? That was my first thought as well, and I wondered how they could possibly be allowed to operate inside a marine sanctuary. As it turns out, the PWC industry has seen some major technological advancements in recent years, and they are now one of the most environmentally friendly vehicles out on the water. In fact, today’s jet ski is 90% cleaner than the ones that were built a decade ago and they’re 70% quieter as well. The results are a fast and fun machine that is safe to take into even protected waters.

Just how environmentally friendly are these new watercraft? They’re so good that the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary has joined forces with the Personal Watercraft Industry Association to create the Blue Rider Ocean Awareness and Stewardship Program, which looks to raise awareness of environmental and ocean conservation efforts throughout the Keys and beyond. The program works directly with tour operators throughout the region, encouraging them to share their sustainable tourism approach with their customers while also introducing them to the incredibly beautiful, yet still fragile, Keys environments.

With all of this in mind, I was all set to hit the water and for my first excursion into the National Marine Sanctuary, I would be riding through the waters off Key West, the southernmost island in the chain. Enlisting a guide from Barefoot Billy’s, a local jet ski tour operator, and following a brief orientation on my watercraft, we were soon off on an early evening ride that would cover 27 miles, completely circling the island. Along the way, we made brief stops at a few points of interest, including a nearby Naval base and a private island with massive homes starting at $5 million.

Our guide also took us out onto the open water, and with a bit of familiarization with the watercraft, we were soon zipping across the waves at speeds approaching 50 mph. The PWC’s were very responsive and easy to maneuver, even as we crossed under one of the mile long bridges of U.S. Highway 1 and out into the Atlantic Ocean, where the choppier waters introduced an exciting new element to the ride. Hitting incoming waves at higher speeds caused the jet skis to catch plenty of air, making an already great ride all the more exhilarating. At times we would fly several feet into the air, skipping from one wave to the next. The Yamaha Waverunners we were riding certainly lived up to their names.

Despite the intense experience of the open water however, the highlight of the cruise was a decidedly low speed affair. The best part of the ride was when we cut the throttle back to idle levels, and simply drifted through the natural pathways that lead to the interior of the mangroves, which grow up out of the oceans themselves. Surrounded by those lush trees on all sides, while deftly navigating the waterways, was a sublime experience, and one that left a smile on my face long after we returned to shore for the evening.

Following my heart-thumping introduction to the Keys on the back of a personal watercraft, I was more than hooked and eager for more. So, the next day we made the 70 mile drive north along scenic Highway 1 to the lovely island of Islamorada, where we grabbed yet another set of Waverunners. This time our PWC’s were provided by a local rental service called Extreme Sports Florida Keys, and after filling out all the necessary paperwork, and once again getting acquainted with the vehicle, we set out for a completely different kind of experience from the one we had the night before.

Sure, it was still loads of high speed fun out on those amazingly blue waters, but this time we really left the town behind and rode into the very heart of the marine sanctuary. Maneuvering our watercraft around a number of small islands, we once again, slipped into the lush mangrove trees, which were more dense in this area, creating an actual covered tunnel to float under. While we drifted under the thick canopy of those branches, a variety of birds hung overhead and at one point a sea turtle paddled by, barely taking notice of our presence.

The waters surrounding Islamorada offered a bit more diversity than those around Key West. At times, they were just 1.5 feet in depth, which further demonstrated the PWC’s ability to reach places where much larger, and more ponderous, boats couldn’t go. This gave us access to some beautiful, yet remote, coral reefs, and with the water so clear, we could cut the engines and drift, while fish swam all about us. At one point I even had three nurse sharks pass directly beneath my jet ski, which was yet one more spectacular experience in a day filled with them.

After skimming across the calm waters to the west, we once again passed under the highway and entered the Atlantic Ocean, where we slalomed over the rougher waves for a time, before our guide gave us the signal to cut our engines and come to a stop. He then instructed us to pop open the storage compartments on the front of our watercraft, where we were delighted to discover he had stowed snorkeling gear for each of us. Moments later, we were fitting the masks to our faces and hopping off our Waverunners into the warm ocean waters. We then proceeded to spend the next 20 minutes, or so, exploring a colorful reef teeming with marine life. When we were finished, we simply scrambled back aboard our little water vehicles, re-stowed our masks and snorkels, and raced off once again.

Eventually, and very reluctantly I might add, we returned to shore, bringing an end to another aquatic adventure. But both rides through the Keys provided exciting and unique experiences that gave me the opportunity to visit the amazing environments there in an unusual and very unexpected way. Believe it or not, the personal watercraft not only deliver an exhilarating ride, but also allow you to get closer to nature than you might have ever thought possible. They truly are an outstanding way to explore the Keys, and I highly recommend the experience.

Florida hotels fend off concerns about oil spill; offer volunteer programs for cleanup efforts

As news of the Gulf of Mexico oil spill continues, Florida businesses are working to reassure travelers it’s safe to visit the Sunshine State.

Environmentalists, scientists and engineers are working on solutions to stop the spill, and now Florida hotels are jumping in to help rebuild the disastrous effects the spill has had on tourism to the area. While the BP oil spill has been somewhat contained to a section of the coast, the entire state of Florida has weathered the storm of panic from travelers. Lemon Tree Inn, for example, has had cancellations due to the oil spill but the hotel’s location in Naples, Fla. is no where near the oil spill.

So, what’s the reality of the spill? There’s no denying that the oil spill is a huge environmental issue, but the good news is that many of Florida’s beaches aren’t affected, which means travelers should think twice before canceling their vacation plans.

Hotels in the Florida Keys like Ocean Key Resort and Little Palm Island Resort are using their Facebook pages to update travelers and guests on the status of nearby beaches. Little Palm, for example, has posted photos of their beaches on Big Pine Key, and even included snapshots of guests swimming and kayaking in the water. Representatives from Lemon Tree Inn tell me that if the oil hits, the hotel will create a volunteer package for guests to help the cleanup efforts.

Meanwhile, some Florida hotels are already hosting volunteer packages to aid in the cleanup efforts. Morgans Hotel Group in South Beach is offering 25 percent off to guests who volunteer with the oil spill cleanup efforts. Contribute at least 20 hours to a local environmental group working with the oil spill and you’ll get 25 percent off at South Beach Mondrian, Delano and Shore Club. All volunteers who book under this package will also experience their discounted stay green-style in a carbon balanced room. Mondrian Delano & Shore Club have purchased renewable energy from EarthEra® who will carbon balance every room booked under this special. Every penny spent with EarthEra® is used to build more renewable energy facilities across the nation.

Want to help? To volunteer call 866.448.5816.

Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival, July 14

On Saturday, July 14, Big Pine Key — a quiet, easy-to-miss Key between Islamorada and Key West — will host one of the most unusual festivals in the US. The 23rd annual Underwater Music Festival will allow divers to explore Looe Key Reef — part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary — to the rhythms of the sea. Literally.

Staged by a local radio station, the event features the station’s music selections broadcast underwater via speakers suspended beneath boats moored on the reef. (The playlist typically includes ocean-themed tunes such as “Yellow Submarine” and “Fins.”)

Moreover, local divers will dress as Sonny and Cher, Elton John, David Crosby — and even a mermaid. An Elvis impersonator will rock the house that day, and divers can even check out some underwater art. For more details about this summer concert, contact the Lower Keys Chamber of Commerce at 1-800-872-3722.

I attended the event last year, and it was a lot of fun — though somewhat disorganized. TIP: If you’re interested in seeing Elvis or the other underwater “musicians,” be sure to ask early and often about their location. They only perform for a few minutes, and not all the dive boats know where they are. Despite the confusion, the day was still a lot of fun, and the diving was good.

Top Five Destinations of Travel Writer Christopher Elliot

I checked the Baby Boomer Trips website to see what is happening there these days. Last month, I mentioned the feature, Ask Nan. This time I browsed the Interviews section. Christopher Elliot is one of the interviewees. As a person who writes for National Geographic Traveler, the U.S. News & World Report and who is a columnist for the New York Times, I’d say Elliot knows a thing or two.

One of the interview questions asked him for his top 5 travel destinations. Except for Anchorage, Alaska, Elliot seems to like warm climates. Sanibel Island is listed as #1, then the Florida Keys, then Sonoma, California, and then Bermuda. Anchorage is last.

Here’s the briefest of brief rundowns of each of these places. I don’t know what Elliot likes about each, but this is what appealed to me. Each place’s website is filled with details meant to capture a wide range of interests. Sanibel Island is a shell collectors’ dream spot and there is the National Wildlife Refuge & Bird Sanctuary. The Florida Keys is as far south as you can get and still be in the U.S. Plus, it just happens to be the dive and sports fishing capital of the world. (At least that’s what the website says.) One of my friends is in love with the Key West Literary Seminar held there every January.

Sonoma trades the tropical paradise for wine country. Instead of driving yourself from winery to winery, you can take a wine country tour. Good idea since wine tours can make a person tipsy in no time. Bermuda is a place I’d go to see the architecture. There are 785 historic houses that are listed on the National Register. Anchorage is a place to go if seeing a wildlife abundance is your fancy. Within a short distance of the city you can see bears, whales, moose and more–a lot more.

If you want more travel thoughts from Christopher Elliot, check out his own travel blog called “Ellipses.”

Detour Worth Making: Florida’s No Name Pub

Last summer, my wife and I treated ourselves to a long weekend and hit the Underwater Music Festival off Big Pine Key, Florida. While the Festival, itself, was pretty cool, the highlight of the trip was dinner at the No Name Pub. Claiming to serve the “greatest pizza in the known universe,” I was a bit skeptical, since it was so far out of the way. Nevertheless, we bellied up to the bar, and we ordered two draught beers and one Key Shrimp Pizza. The verdict? I haven’t been to the entire known universe, but I can pretty safely say that it was the greatest pizza in Florida.

Located at the end of North Watson Boulevard, 1.5 miles north of US1, and just before you cross the bridge to No Name Key, this off-the-beaten-path hideaway is the oldest bar on the island. Built in 1936, the brothel that existed during the early days was exchanged for a killer pizza recipe. Visitors to the Pub are encouraged to decorate a dollar to hang on the walls or ceiling; there are tens of thousands of doodled-on bills covering them today. Dimly-lit, built entirely of wood, and featuring a sturdy bar to sidle up to, No Name is the pub pirates would call their own – except they’d demand, “Arrr, Matey…can we get some music in here?”

In short, no road trip to the Lower Keys is complete without a side trip to the No Name. You just gotta go.

[Photo: WavArt]