Destinations on the edge: Baghdad

by Tom Johansmeyer on

There used to be one way to go to Iraq. You’d go to your local recruiting office, take an oath and sign a contract. Then, you’d subject yourself to a minimum of 16 weeks’ training under the most unpleasant of circumstances. Wearing your snappy new threads (and a Kevlar helmet), you’d be put on a plane. Today, things are a bit different. You don’t have to be a soldier or civilian contractor to go to Baghdad. All you need to do is buy a plane ticket.

If you’re looking to put the winter chill behind you, Iraq is certainly an option. Civilian flights now touch down every day at Baghdad International Airport. But, as you’d expect from airlines operating in a war zone, information’s not easy to come by. Royal Jordanian Airlines operates flights to Iraq. On its website’s route map, several Iraqi cities are listed, including Baghdad, Irbil (also spelled “Erbil” and sometimes “Arbil”) and Basra. When you try to book a flight to these destinations from the website, though, you’ll see that they aren’t available. To book a flight, give them a call to get more information. You can also roll the dice with Iraqi Airways, but I’d stick to known brands.

Play it safe by taking an Austrian Airlines flight to Irbil. Jumping off from JFK (New York) or DCA (Washington, D.C.) makes the most sense, and the latter is a bit less expensive. A round trip for late January will set you back around $2,000 for the cheapest fare available, so keep in mind that this insanity is a form of luxury travel.

Hey, adventure’s the new luxury. Drop the cash on a thrill.

If you really want to live life on the edge, you can be driven into the city by a “bodyguard.” This service provider is pretty much a guy with a car an AK-47 sitting across his lap. He’ll bring you into the country, but you’ll probably be nervous the whole way. Or, maybe the notion of a stranger in a war-torn country with a rifle across his thighs makes you feel comfortable. I don’t judge.

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According to several reports from the ground, the Baghdad airport itself is relatively safe. There are plenty guards all over the terminals, and they do take their jobs seriously. Photography is not permitted, a fact that the folks with the guns will make sure you understand (though not in a harassing manner). Once you’re on the outside, the rules change. Iraq is a war zone; there’s no other way to describe it. People shoot at each other. Hostages have been taken. So, you need to be smart when you make this trek. Follow the rules when you see people with weapons.

But, you don’t care. So, it’s time to find a hotel.

The normal means of booking a room do not apply to Baghdad. Scour the traditional travel sites, and you will be disappointed with each click of your mouse. So, dig a little. On RealTravel, you can get a bit of variety. Twelve hotels are listed, with rates varying from the Hotel Ishtar’s painless $67 a night to the Palestine International Hotel’s $150 room rate.

Don’t expect luxury. Howard Cornell, a contractor who served in Iraq, remembers stays at both Hotel Baghdad and the al Rasheed. He recounts in an interview with TraderDaily.com that the al Rasheed was a bit beat up on the outside but wasn’t so bad one you crossed the threshold. Hotel Baghdad? Well, it’s only good for “reporters for civilians with a pistol under the pillow.” In town, you’ll be able to get around on foot or via taxi. The cab drivers are comfortable enough with the tourist economy to quote rates in U.S. dollars.

If you’ve become immune to the safer thrills of skydiving and cave diving, war tourism is the next logical step. There are plenty of danger zones around the world; you have choices. Unfortunately, Afghanistan gets cold. Iraq will get you the adrenaline rush you crave, and you probably won’t need to pack a sweater.

Be careful when you tour Baghdad. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times, and you’ll have a fulfilling experience. This is a unique opportunity, and few will make this sort of move. When your co-workers brag of their luxurious or unusual travel exploits, having been to Baghdad will equip you to end their tales … quickly.

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[Thanks, Brian Sayler, for the galleries and photo of Sadam’s palace above]

Budget travel – Amsterdam

by Scott Carmichael on

Summary: Amsterdam may not be the first city to pop up on your wish list if you are looking for a budget destination, but the city has several great reasons to visit if you want to keep spending to a minimum.

For starters, the city has one of the best public transit systems in the world, and you’ll be close to a tram, bus, train or metro stop within walking distance almost anywhere in the city. Amsterdam also has an amazing (and affordable) selection of food from all over the world.

Getting in: Of course, the toughest part of picking Amsterdam as your budget destination is going to be getting there (assuming you are leaving from the US). European readers have quite a few more options, including low cost carriers, rail and even by sea, but from the US you are limited to just a couple of airlines, and none of them can be categorized as “low cost”. Your best bet is to keep an eye on an airfare prediction site like Farecast.

One thing to keep in mind is that Amsterdam is surrounded by several other European cities. If you manage to find a cheap flight to Dusseldorf, Brussels or even Paris, you can check the train prices to Amsterdam on the site of the Dutch International rail service. If you book far enough in advance, you’ll often find one way tickets for as low as €19.
The good news is that hotel prices in Amsterdam are almost always low, so you don’t have to plan your trip around affordable hotel availability. Just like any other major city in Europe, you’ll want to stay clear of Amsterdam during the high season of June through September.

Once you land at Schiphol Airport, a train ride to the downtown area costs just under €4 and ticket machines take all credit cards and their display can be switched to English. The train ride takes just 20 minutes. One word of advise when you are on the train – always keep a close eye on your luggage, and never open the train window for people standing outside who appear to want to ask you a question, pickpockets and luggage thieves are very active on this train line.

Where to Stay: Amsterdam is quite weird when it comes to hotels; You won’t find many chain hotels, but the city has 100’s of small independently operated hotels. Despite being one of the largest cities in Europe, Amsterdam has just one Hilton and one Starwood hotel (if you don’t count their locations at the airport).

Of course, this is actually a good thing for folks traveling on a budget. In Amsterdam you’ll find plenty of very affordable hotels, without having to settle for a hostel or other shared accommodation’s. All hotels in Amsterdam charge a 5% tourist tax, but their quoted prices include sales tax (just like all other published prices in Holland).

Some good examples of these cheap hotels are (all prices based upon a January stay):

  • The HEM hotel is located about 20 minutes from downtown and is a fair distance from most attractions. This modern 216 room hotel is surprisingly upscale considering rooms go for as little as €27 a night (prepaid rate), which includes your own bathroom, free Wi-Fi and breakfast.
  • The Art Gallery hotel – this 13 room hotel has one and two person room options, as well as several “deluxe” rooms. Sadly, deluxe does not offer a massive upgrade, it just means you get your own bathroom and shower. That said, a one person room (with a single bed) goes for just under €30 a night, which even includes breakfast. All rooms have their own TV as well as a coffeemaker. The hotel has free Wi-Fi access for all guests. One thing to keep in mind, is that the hotel will charge a 3% surcharge for all credit card payments, so it may be wise to reserve the room with a card, and pay for subsequent nights in cash.
  • Hostelboat Anna Maria II – Not only is Amsterdam one of the only cities in the world with 1000’s of house boats, it is also one of the only cities in the world with several house boat hostels. The Anna Maria II has 10 bunkbeds, and several shared bathrooms. Beds start at just €25 a night, but be sure to read the reviews as not everyone will actually fit in the cramped quarters. A list of other houseboats can be found here.

Thanks to its public transport system, you can stay almost anywhere within the city and its suburbs, and always be within 5 minutes of some form of transport. This also means you won’t have to bother with renting a car or spending extra money on a cab.

What to See: When you are in Amsterdam, you’d have a hard time not finding things to do. The city has some of the best museums in the world, as well as plenty of free attractions and of course some stunning architecture, both historical and modern.

  • Heineken Experience – The Heineken Experience is the home of the famous green bottled beer. This former factory has been transformed into a 4 level exhibition about Heineken, and shows the history of their products and explains the production process. At the end of the tour, you can enjoy two free cold and fresh drinks at the World bar. Admission to the museum is €15. Younger visitors will be thrilled to hear that the Dutch can legally sell alcohol to anyone over 16.
  • Rijksmuseum – The Rijks Museum is the Dutch national museum and houses some of the most important Dutch art in the world. Works by Rembrandt, Vermeer and Frans Hals are on display here. The museum is currently being renovated, but the most popular exhibits are still on display in the Philips wing of the complex. Admission is €10 per person.
  • Hortus Botanicus – The Hortus Botanicus is one of the oldest botanic gardens in the world. Several of the gardens are outdoors, but the indoor greenhouse is perfect if the weather does not cooperate. Admission to Hortus is €7 per person.
  • Bike rental – As soon as you arrive in Amsterdam, you’ll notice that the primary mode of transportation for many people is the bike. In fact, most of Amsterdam has dedicated bike paths, bike traffic lights and bike storage facilities almost everywhere you go. The only thing more popular than the bike, is bike theft. If you do rent a bike, always be sure to lock it, and never ignore the optional bike insurance. Bike rentals will run you about €10 a day with an additional €4 for insurance. When possible, use one of the many secured bike facilities in the downtown area.
  • FloraHolland Aalsmeer flower auction – If you have ever purchased a bunch of flowers at the local store, then chances are they passed through the Aalsmeer flower auction. This facility is the largest plant and flower export location in the world. If you find yourself awake early in the morning, you can make your way to Aalsmeer (just outside Schiphol airport). Admission is free.
  • The Red Light district – No visit to Amsterdam is complete without a stroll through the famous Red Light District. It is not an attraction I’d consider walking through with kids, but if you are on your own, or with adults, it is quite an eye opening experience. In the “RLD”, you’ll encounter the working women behind their windows, waiting for customers, as well as numerous sex shops, sex clubs and many bars and restaurants. I’d highly recommend staying clear of these bars, as they tend to mainly cater for tourists and other visitors who don’t mind overpriced food and beverages.
  • Gassan Diamond Tour – As one of the diamond capitals of the world, Amsterdam has quite a few diamond attractions. One of the most popular (and free) attractions, is the Gassan Diamond Tour. Gassan is a fully operational diamond factory and the tour gives you a behind the scenes look at how they transform rough diamonds into jewel quality rocks.
  • Central Amsterdam Library – The Central Amsterdam library is conveniently located close to the main train station. This 6 floor facility offers plenty to do for members and non member guests. It may even be a great place to start your trip as the 6th floor offers a fantastic view of the city skyline. The library is open daily from 10am till 10 pm.
  • Festivals and events – There is one thing Amsterdam is very good at; festivals. There are several major events that take place in the city. Koninginnedag is the national Dutch celebration for the birthday of the Queen (in fact, the day is the birthday of the previous Queen). Queens day is a totally insane celebration day, and a national holiday. The Amsterdam Gay Pride parade is one of the largest in the world, and the 2009 event is being held from July 31st – August 2nd 2009.
  • Shopping in Amsterdam – the city center of Amsterdam is full of souvenir stores, department stores and almost every other kind of store under the sun. As with most downtown stores, many of these shops cater for tourists, and have their goods priced as such. For a more authentic shopping experience, you may want to grab a tram and head towards the Waterlooplein market where you’ll find everything from second hand clothes to cheese, nuts and fruit.
  • Vondelpark – Most big cities in the world have at least one large park, and Amsterdam is no different. The Vondelpark is a large park with everything from wooded areas to public lakes, an outdoor theater and several public bathrooms. Many parts of the park are accessible by bike, so if you have rented a bike, I highly recommend taking it for a spin the park. During the summer months, you’ll always find something fun going on in the park.

If you plan to visit more than 3 or 4 attractions in Amsterdam, you may be better off with the Amsterdam Tourist Agency “I Amsterdam Card“. This all-in-one card offers free museum and attraction admission, free public transit usage as well as a free trip on one of the many canal boats in the city. The card starts at €33 per day, up tp €53 for a 3 day card. Make sure you run the numbers, and purchase the card as soon as you arrive at the train station.

Where to eat: When it comes to food, Amsterdam won’t disappoint. The city offers food from every corner of the world. Of course, like any major city, you’ll also find your fair share of restaurants that cater mainly to tourists. Avoid any restaurant that offers a tourist meal, as it is almost always overpriced.

The city has all the major US fast food chains scattered throughout the shopping district, but if you want some authentic Dutch fast food, then head on over to a Snack Bar for “patat met” (fries with mayo) and a “Kroket” (meat filled fried roll). At most of these snack bars, you’ll be able to get yourself a totally unhealthy, yet filling meal for about €4. If you prefer to put your own lunch together, check out a local grocery store (Albert Heijn is the most popular chain), this is especially convenient if you want some cheap beer and a sandwich. A six pack of beer, a loaf of bread and some fresh Gouda will run you about €10

Some other budget friendly places to eat are:

  • Skek – Skek is a fairly new restaurant in Amsterdam and is operated by one of the largest student bodies in the country. Food is served from early morning till late in the evening, and is a mix of traditional Dutch food and world cuisine. Their dinner menu offers a three course meal for about €18, but you’ll be able to get a decent lunch for as little as €3. Most beverages (including beer) are just €2. Students get a 33% discount on the entire menu. The restaurant also offers free wireless internet access.
  • De Keuken van 1870 – “The Kitchen of 1870” is another very affordable restaurant. For just €7.50, you can order from their daily changing menu lineup, and lunch starts at a reasonable €4.
  • Albert Cuyp Market – The Albert Cuyp market is held Monday through Saturday from 9 till 6, and offers almost 250 stalls selling anything from cheap CD’s to all kinds of food. Admission to the market is of course free, and you should be able to grab a very filling bite to eat for just a couple of Euros.

Other things to do include hopping on a train to visit other parts of the country. The Netherlands is small enough that you can reach 90% of the country by train within an hour. Around Amsterdam you’ll find cities like Haarlem, Volendam (a traditional Dutch fishing village) and The Hague (the goverment capital of the country).

Through the Gadling Lens: taking a great portrait

by Karen Walrond on

In a recent post, I described the types of photographs that I like to take while I’m traveling. I thought for upcoming posts, we could talk some specifics about each one of them, starting with taking portraits.

Now, obviously, taking portraits isn’t necessarily an intrepid-traveler thing; however, in my experience, nothing adds more colour and interest to a travel album than the images of the faces you encountered — either your travel companions, or the locals doing their thing. And so, the following is a short guide on how to take a good portrait. If you’re not currently traveling (or don’t have any immediate trips planned), then feel free to try them out on accommodating friends and family so you’re prepared for when you do take off for faraway lands.
For posed shots:

Get in close. One of the biggest mistakes I see when trying to take a portrait is that the photographer takes the image from too far away. Remember, you’re taking a portrait — this isn’t the time to figure out how to get the entire Grand Canyon, or the complete Statue of Liberty into the frame. The point of the portrait should be to capture the essence of the person you’re capturing on film.

So remember that the ideal lens focal length for taking a portrait is around 100-120mm (and that your point-and-shoot, if that’s what you’re using, probably has the capability to do this). And then make sure that your subject’s face and neck take up a majority of the frame. If your goal is to capture an image which will ensure that the viewer’s attention is on the person you’re shooting, then don’t leave any room for doubt.



Find the right place to shoot. In my opinion, natural light is always the most … well, natural lighting to use when shooting a portrait — the trick is to find the right kind of light. Too little light, and your pictures may not result in very sharp images; too much light, and your run the risk of having odd shadows annoyingly appear — or worse, the dreaded Squint Face. The truth is that overcast skies, while disappointing when making your day’s plans, often create ideal conditions for taking portraits, providing sufficient light without shadows. Regardless, whether you choose a shaded area, or a spot next to a sunny window, once you’ve picked a location, don’t forget to adjust your ISO settings accordingly — remember, the brighter the area, the lower the ISO setting (i.e., the fewer the number of “light catchers”) that you’ll need, and vice versa.



Make sure your subject feels comfortable. I don’t know about you, but more often than not, when I’m about to take a photograph of someone, the response is, “oh no! don’t take a picture of me!” or “I look horrible in photos!” or just a general “AUUUUGH!” I find that often getting the subject to cooperate is the hardest part of taking a photograph!

In my experience, the best thing that you can do to help your subject to feel comfortable, is to actually refrain from forcing him to pose. If he wants to make a face, let them — you may end up loving the resulting shot. Joke and talk with him, and when he laughs in response, quickly snap the image — the result will likely be a natural photograph. And finally, If he’s just woken up, his hair is disheveled, there’s sleep in his eyes, and he vociferously protests, then respect his wishes and don’t take the picture. By showing deference to his concerns, you’ll likely get more cooperation from him later, when he’s feeling more photogenic.



Once the subject is in place, before you take the shot, check out what you see. Take a look through the camera, and see if anything looks wrong. If there’s a weird shadow, then adjust your subject to minimize accordingly. If there’s something weird in the background, ditto. Look for stray hairs, lint, spaghetti stains — whatever you think might ruin the shot.

Understand, of course, that sometimes imperfections actually enhance the image. For example, taking the shot of my mother-in-law, above, with her hair in her face, sort of defies convention — but I thought her windblown hair (and her wry smile through the strands) beautifully capture the feeling of that cold, windy November day on that beach in Cornwall. It remains one of my favourite portraits from that trip.

Don’t be afraid of putting the subject off-center in your shot. This is called the “Rule of Thirds” — it’s sort of technical, but basically, it means that your eye finds images that are slightly off-center a bit more interesting. There’s obviously nothing wrong with perfectly centered image, but just to add a bit of visual interest, experiment with placing your subject just slightly left or slightly right.

Take lots and lots and lots of shots. I’m not talking about posing your subject over and over again — I’m saying once you’ve taken one shot, take many immediately after. In my experience, some of the best shots happen after the subject relaxes.

Here’s what I mean: say, for example, you’ve asked your daughter and her friend to sit together and smile for a shot. They do — that strained, clenched smile of young children being forced to pose. You take the shot, they hear the shutter release, and they figure the shot is over. KEEP THE CAMERA AIMED AT THEIR FACES. Invariably, one of them will say something that cracks the other up — she’ll say “booger” or “poop” or some other 4-year-old witticism, causing the two of them to collapse in giggles. That’s when you click that shutter like your life depends on it. I guarantee you’ll love one of the follow-up shots (and it’s astounding how well this technique works on adults, too).

For candid shots, images of locals (who you don’t know), and so on:

For candid shots of friends and family members while on vacation, pretty much all the rules above apply — the trick, of course, is tapping into your inner photojournalist. You’re still want to get in close, but now you’re probably going to want that 200 mm lens (or max out the zoom on your point-and-shoot) so as not to interrupt the action that is going on. You’ll still want to check out the light conditions, etc., to adjust your ISO; however if there are weird shadows in th
e way, it’s probably going to be hard for you to adjust the subject, so you may have to forego the shot (or take it anyway, and hope for the best). But now, more than ever, you’re really going to want to take lots of shots, so click away — that way you’ll have tons of images from which to choose the very best.

And finally, one word about shooting strangers: in general, the safest thing you can do is to politely ask the subject if you can take her photograph, before taking the shot. While in the United States, if you’re out in a public place and take the photograph, you’re probably fine, privacy laws vary from country to country, so your safest bet is to ask for permission first.

If you’re not brave enough to ask a total stranger to take his photograph, then do what I do — take the photographs of buskers or other street performers. Usually it’s a great way to capture local flavour, and you can pay for the privilege for taking the photograph for a nominal fee. I’ve been able to snag some of my favourite vacation shots this way as a result.

Hopefully the tips in this post will help you improve your portraiture skills — as I said at the top, keep practicing with amenable friends and family, and I guarantee you’ll see improvement. And as always, if you have any questions, please send them directly to karen DOT walrond AT weblogsinc DOT com, and I’ll address them in upcoming posts!

Karen is a writer and photographer in Houston, Texas. All the photos in this post were taken by her. You can see more of her work at her site, Chookooloonks. And for more Through the Gadling Lens, click here.

Tuesday Travel Trivia (Week 11)

by Aaron Hotfelder on

Welcome back to Tuesday Travel Trivia, the game for people with tons of useless knowledge looking for a place to show it off. Congrats to last week’s big winners, Here to Clear and Eva, who were faced with ten wickedly difficult questions.

As always, check out the questions below and leave your guesses/answers in the comments. Come back next Tuesday for the answers… Good luck!

  1. About once a month, an all-night party takes place on the beaches of Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand, to celebrate what event?
  2. IMDB.com describes the plot of a particular movie like this: “A strait-laced French student moves into an apartment in Barcelona with a cast of six other characters from all over Europe. Together, they speak the international language of love and friendship.” What 2002 movie does this describe?
  3. What ever happened to the African nation of Zaire?
  4. What travel writer’s book Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? drew controversy when its author was quoted as saying that Lonely Planet hadn’t paid him enough to travel to Colombia to research a guidebook, so instead he wrote part of it in San Francisco?
  5. What proper adjective describes the roughly six million people living in Flanders in the northern half of Belgium?
  6. Canada’s Prime Minister recently made international headlines after he dissolved the country’s parliament. But who is Canada’s Prime Minister?
  7. What massive temple in Cambodia appears on the country’s flag and is an extremely popular tourist destination?
  8. What tiny country is sandwiched between France and Spain?
  9. What Chilean island, located over 2,200 miles from mainland Chile, is well known for its legendary moai statues?
  10. What country receives almost 80 million international tourists per year, the most of any nation?

Look below the fold for the answers to last week‘s questions…

  1. The world’s largest art gallery is located in St. Petersburg, Russia. What is it called? Answer: The Hermitage
  2. Set mostly in India, the 2007 travel film The Darjeeling Limited was directed by whom? Answer: Wes Anderson
  3. In what country is the world’s tallest man-made structure located? Answer: The United Arab Emirates (The Burj Dubai)
  4. If I wanted to eat a pierogi in the place of its origin, to what part of the world would I go? Answer: Poland, Eastern Europe
  5. What Chinese dialect is more widely spoken, Cantonese or Mandarin? Answer: Mandarin
  6. In what easternmost Mexican state is Cancún located? Answer: Quintana Roo
  7. Colbert Report host Stephen Colbert had an ongoing fake feud with what Korean pop singer after a 2007 Time Magazine online poll cited the singer as the world’s most influential person? Answer: Rain
  8. New York City is composed of five boroughs: Manhattan, Queens, the Bronx, and two others. What are they? Answer: Staten Island, Brooklyn
  9. What two-letter website is useful for calculating the exchange rates of currency from all over the world? Answer: xe.com
  10. About how many islands make up the Asian nation of Indonesia? A) 17,000 B) 3,200 C) 102,000 Answer: A

Plane Answers: Sunburns and inflight icing

by Kent Wien on

Welcome to Gadling’s feature, Plane Answers, where our resident airline pilot, Kent Wien, answers your questions about everything from takeoff to touchdown and beyond. Have a question of your own? Ask away!

David asks:

Do pilots get sunburn from being up at 39,000 feet for several hours? Especially during the transcontinental day trips. If so, how do you protect yourselves?

I’ve never had an issue with sunburn while in the cockpit and apparently that’s because windscreens on airliners block the UV-B light which causes sunburn.

More worrisome is the fact that airline crews are classified as radiation workers in Europe and the United States. In fact, the level of radiation that crews are subjected to is in the top 5% of all radiation workers, and occasionally twice as high as a typical nuclear plant worker.

This radiation has caused an increase in cataracts among pilots as well as DNA damage among the more high time aviators. And if that weren’t enough, the incidence of melanoma is also slightly higher among air crew.

Dan brings up a timely topic:

After taking off in winter conditions with everything done properly for the de-icing of the plane is there anyway that snow or ice can accumulate on a plane while in flight? If yes how would this happen?

Inflight, we use engine anti-ice, which is essentially hot bleed-air from the engines piped through the leading edges of the engine cowl and, on some airplanes, the nose cone or ‘spinner’ of the jet engine. This anti-ice feature is left on anytime we’re in the clouds and the temperature is below 10C/50F.

This same hot air is piped through the leading edges of the wings. As ice begins to build up, we turn on the wing anti-ice to eliminate the ice. Unlike the engine anti-ice, wing anti-ice isn’t left on, however, but it’s cycled in intervals.

The tops of the wings remain free from ice inflight for the most part.

Also, the windshield is electrically heated whenever the engines are turning on a jet. This prevents frost and fog from building up on the outside and inside, respectively.

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We need your help! Do you have a question about something related to the pointy end of an airplane? Ask Kent and he’ll use it for next Monday’s Plane Answers.