Tim Patterson on the Kachin struggle for freedom in Myanmar

My travel writing buddy Tim Patterson has been traveling around Southeast Asia for six months now doing a bunch of things, but when I learned of his latest project in Myanmar, my eyes and ears perked up and I hope yours will too. He and his friend Ryan Libre have been working with the Pulitzer Center to provide crisis reporting in the Kachin state of northern Myanmar. Their first report came in December 13, and certainly brought to my attention a frightening situation that many are not aware of.

Tim and Ryan had been invited to Kachin by the Kachin Independence Organization (KIO) to lead journalism workshops to young writers. Upon arrival, however, the two were quickly ushered into their hotel room, where they were kept protected from the watchful eyes of the country’s reigning military junta, which has long opposed foreign journalism coverage of any activities taking place in Myanmar.

Instead of telling you, second hand, what transpired during their precarious stay in Myanmar, I thought it would be more worthwhile to hear some of the story straight from Tim. I prepared these questions for him by email, and he graciously and promptly responded.
BY: How did you and Ryan decide on this particular project, through this particular non-profit (the Pulitzer Center)?

TP: Ryan and I had been talking about a trip to Myanmar for several years. He lives in Thailand, where many Kachins go for various training workshops, and met a KIO operative at an ashram near Bangkok. When Ryan asked if I wanted to make the trip it took me about .8 seconds to say YES!

It’s been an immense privilege to work with the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting, and I’m incredibly grateful to Jon Sawyer, Janeen Heath and the rest of the Pulitzer staff who decided to take a chance on this project.

There are a lot of terrific young journalists supported by the Pulitzer Center, like the folks at the Common Language Project, and it’s intimidating to see my name alongside those of more accomplished journalists. Ryan and I have a big responsibility to turn in quality work.

BY: Had you traveled to Myanmar before, and what were your impressions of the country upon arrival this time?

TP: Nope, I had never been to Myanmar before, and now that news of this project is plastered across the web I doubt the junta will ever give me a visa. It’s hard to talk about impressions of the country in general terms, because we were limited to small strips of territory controlled by the KIO.

My overall impression is of a rich and fertile land populated by deeply sincere, ambitious, learned people who – tragically – have almost no opportunity to pursue their dreams. The perpetual rule of the Myanmar military government is a travesty and countries who continue to deal with the junta, notably China and the ASEAN member nations, should be ashamed.

I should also mention that although what Ryan and I did sounds like hardcore journalism, our time in Kachin was quite relaxed. The Kachins were gracious hosts and we spent a lot of time drinking tea in front of a space heater and watching the BBC.

BY: What do you and Ryan hope to accomplish by telling about your experience in Myanmar?

TP: It’s shocking to see how little information on Kachin is available. Our main goal is to get the word out however we can, to make people aware that such a place exists. We’ll do this by hitting up as many forms of media as possible – online, newspaper, magazine, radio and even a short documentary film that we hope will air on the PBS program “Foreign Exchange.”

Our biggest challenge is to make our work accessible and entertaining to a general audience while doing justice to the complexities of the situation on the ground. There’s nothing black and white about politics in Myanmar, and that’s especially true when talking about the ethnic minority areas like Kachin, where the central government doesn’t have total control.

We’ll try to let the Kachins speak for themselves when possible through interviews and personal portraits, but it’s also important for journalists to be skeptical and try to capture the many facets of a given issue.

I’m more comfortable with the sort of personal travel writing where exaggeration isn’t a big deal. With serious journalism, there’s a much greater imperative to stick to the facts.

BY: How many more “Untold Stories” can we hope to read from you, and can you give us a little hint as to what to expect in future dispatches?

TP: A lot! Ryan and I are holed up in a teeny-tiny room in Hong Kong now, living on instant ramen and cheap beer and sorting through stacks of notes, thousands of photos and hours of video. We hope to publish dozens of stories across a range of media.

I’m working on a feature article that gives an overview of the political situation in Kachin, along with a more personal piece for BraveNewTraveler.com about the power of the Kachin’s Christian faith. We’re also putting together a piece for the Kyoto Journal’s special issue on War and Peace.

Going to Kachin was the easy part. Now the real work begins.

BY: Back in September, you had hinted about growing roots in Vermont. Is this still the plan, or have your plans changed after what you’ve experienced on your extended trip in Southeast Asia?

TP: I still want to settle down in Craftsbury, Vermont, and plan to break ground on my cabin this summer. There are lots of opportunities opening up in Asia, however, and I’ll be shuttling back and forth across the Pacific for a few years to come.

Next week I fly home to the States, where I’ll be recruiting students for Where There Be Dragons educational travel programs. In March I go back to Laos to finish scouting the new Dragon’s Mekong River semester program, then home again for cabin building, then back to Asia to lead a Dragon’s trip, and then maybe back to Kachin….

As much as I want to live a simple, low-impact life, the travel opportunities are difficult to turn down.

Tim continues to be an inspiration for me as a travel writer. He seeks the truth in every experience, no matter how heartbreaking or difficult the story is to tell. He and Ryan’s journey to Myanmar is living proof that stories are worth telling, no matter how dangerous or dire the consequences.

To read recent stories from Pulitzer Center writers, visit their Untold Stories blog site. You can also read up on Tim and Ryan’s project (as well as other Pulitzer Center projects) here.

All photos are courtesy of Ryan Libre. More images taken during the Myanmar project are viewable through his Idioimagers site.

A nice roundup of some of the dumbest things the TSA did in 2008

The TSA has made quite a name for itself when it comes to making stupid decisions. Whether it is forcing a mom to drink her own breast milk, or claiming a thin laptop could be a dangerous weapon, when the TSA screws up, they tend to screw up quite badly.

I’ve compiled some of the best TSA screwups we reported on here on Gadling in 2008.

Do not try and bring a gun through the checkpoint (unless you work for the TSA)

Can you imagine what would happen if you tried to sneak a gun past the security checkpoint? All hell would break loose, probably involving a complete terminal shutdown and a taser.

Unless of course you work for the TSA.

Back in April, Justin wrote about the TSA agent who smuggled a gun through the checkpoint. Instead of being fired, the agent was merely suspended for 30 days. Brilliant.

* * *

Mock bomb passes through the checkpoint – CNN was there to document it

What is worse than an incompetent checkpoint that misses a mock bomb strapped to a TSA agent? Having the incident filmed on CNN!

When CNN got up close and personal with TSA undercover agent “Jason”, they probably did not expect to document someone sneaking a fake bomb past the security staff.

* * *

1000’s of TSA uniforms and badges unaccounted for

October brought us the brilliant story of the TSA coming to the conclusion that they have lost track of thousands of uniforms and badges. Not just any old badge; these badges actually provide access to secure areas of the airport.

Apparently the TSA did not have a suitable system in place to check that retiring (or fired) agents were actually returning their stuff. So, while they are busy making sure you don’t bring dangerous bottled water on the plane, potential terrorists might be out there buying real TSA uniforms.

* * *


Is that an Apple branded bomb in your bag?

When Apple released their new ultra-thin laptop, I doubt anyone at the design department ever thought that the TSA might confuse the sleek lines of the Macbook Air with a bomb.

Apparently the TSA had not been keeping up with the latest technologies enough to understand that a thin computer does not always have to be an explosive device.

* * *

Breasts + nipple rings + pliers = TSA embarrassment

One of the more high profile stories involving the TSA this year, was an incident involving breasts and nipple rings.

While these 2 usually make for a steamy story that beings with “Dear Penthouse…”, this incident was quite embarrassing for the TSA.

When Mandi Hamlin passed through the checkpoint, she set off the handheld metal detector wand. Instead of just asking for a manual search by a female agent, the male TSA agents decided it would much more fun to give Mandi a pair of pliers and demand that she remove her nipple rings.

Once Gloria Allred go involved, the TSA announced it would change the way it screens passengers with body piercings.

* * *

Greed knows no boundaries with this TSA agent

In September, I reported on a TSA agent who was helping himself to goodies from our luggage. Not content with low priced items like MP3 players and digital cameras, this idiot thought it would be cool to snag himself a $47,000 HD video camera from HBO.

As with most thieves, this guy got caught when he became too greedy. The FBI purchased one of his items off Ebay, and apprehended him.

* * *


TSA behavior detection, detects not much more than that

In 2006, the TSA started a highly promoted “behavior detection program” which involved training their agents to detect terrorists based on nothing more than suspicious behavior.

In total, 160,000 people were flagged by this method, resulting in just 1,266 arrests. Aaron covered this waste of time and tax money in November including a priceless quote from a Carnegie Mellon professor who calls the program “a sham”.

* * *


Sprained ankle? Prove it!

It’s bad enough when the antics at your checkpoint are merely annoying, it’s another when the screeners actually cause bodily harm.

That is what happened to Lorna Dunlap at Pasco, WA airport and Jeffrey wrote about this insane incident back in October.

Poor Lorna has sprained her ankle, forcing her to travel with a leg brace. Apparently, the screener wanted more proof of this injury, so told her to remove her leg brace and stand on one leg.

The stupidity caused her to fracture her leg in 2 places, but I’m sure she’s relieved to hear that the TSA is “looking into it”.

* * *


Another breast related incident

The TSA really seems to have a problem with breasts. When you read what happened to Nancy Kates, you’d probably suspect that the TSA agents all received a memo warning about boobie bombs.

Nancy is a big-busted woman, but when her underwire set off the metal detector, it was the beginning of a 40 minute dispute that resulted in her having to explain to a TSA supervisor how the Constitution works.

In the end, the TSA was so kind as to let her simply remove her bra and go through the checkpoint again, but that didn’t stop her from making sure the entire world got to read her story.


Despite the TSA’s best intentions, what strange things have been found on planes?

Through the Gadling Lens: great gifts for the travelling photographer

I don’t know about you, but this holiday season has completely gotten away from me (note to self: do not travel again anytime between Halloween and Christmas, particularly if Thanksgiving comes late in the year). We’ve managed to get our holiday decorations up, but we’ve hardly done any Christmas shopping so far, and time is running out and …

… *sigh*.

Anyway, if, like me, you’re starting to run out of time, and you happen to have a photog in the family who likes to travel (or happen to be the travelling photographer, and are looking for some ideas for hint-dropping purposes), here’s a list of some great gifts you might want to consider:
1. A camera bag. Even if your favourite photographer already has a camera bag, trust me, s/he wouldn’t mind another. The trick about buying a good camera bag however, is to ensure that (a) there’s enough padding inside to cushion the camera from any possible impacts, and (b) it doesn’t scream “camera” while walking in crowded public places or airports.

Personally, I enjoy my Crumpler backpack (shown here) — it’s got a padded section for my camera, my laptop, and a bit of room for other things — and it doesn’t look like a camera bag. In addition, Loewpro also has a great selection of camera backpacks and other bags, and some of them don’t look very distinguishable from any other type of non-camera bag.

And for those who use point-and-shoots, there are some great small padded pouches out there for you to toss in your bigger bags, but still keep your camera (or other camera-related stuff) safe. Check out Etsy for handmade, unique options.

2. A small travel tripod. Until recently, I thought of a travel tripod as a sort of gadgety luxury — but last month, when I taking a photograph of the Houses of Parliament in London at dusk, trying to balance my camera on a rain-slicked banister, and petrified the camera would take a tumble into the Thames below, I realized that perhaps a travel tripod might be something great to have at the bottom of my camera bag.

Travel tripods come in all shapes and sizes (and capabilities) — check out Pedcopods and Gorillapods for two more popular versions.

3. Mailable photo frames. This idea actually comes from one of my colleagues, Sarah, at Shutter Sisters — these handy little photo frames that are actually customizable postcards. Says Sarah: “When I was on vacation in September, I sent my daughter Cadence’s best friend custom postcards using the mailable photo frame from Photojojo (I’d print my shots at a local Wolf/Ritz and mail the postcard from wherever we happened to be).”

This seems like a great stocking stuffer for a loved one who is planning an extensive trip in 2009, and is intent on taking a camera along — a great way to receive very personal news from far away, and then display it immediately! Awesome.

4. A subscription to a magazine known for its photography. I don’t mean this in a read-Playboy-for-the-articles way, I’m talking about periodicals that are famous for their cutting-edge imagery and contributing photographers. Shutterbugs are always looking for inspiration, and I, for one, would love a subscription to a magazine like American Photo, National Geographic, or Vanity Fair, to name a few. Figure out what type of photography your loved one is inspired by, and shop accordingly. Not only will the magazine provide some cool ideas for capturing images, your recipient will have some good reading to take along with them on those interminable flights. Bonus.

5. A cool camera strap. Earlier this year, I went on a trip with 12 other women — we all rented a home on the Oregon coast for a 4-day getaway. As it happened, a large percentage of us were photographers — which meant that cameras were everywhere. I have to tell you, whether you’re a Nikon fan or a Canon fan or a whatever-other-brand fan: cameras look a LOT alike. At times it became damned near impossible to tell the difference from one camera to the next — and God help you if you just rested your camera somewhere for a minute. Sometimes I thought I’d never see my camera again.

A few of the more savvy of our group, however, had replaced their camera’s store-issue camera strap with some really distinctive straps, making it easy to spot their camera from 10 paces. When I returned home, I purchased a couple for my own cameras. I think they’d make a unique gift — and as with the camera bags, Etsy is a great place to find some unusual ones.

6. Picture frames. I have to say, I’m awful about displaying my photographs in my own home — yet there’s nothing I love better than visiting someone’s home that has tons of photographs around, chronicling their travels and their lives. If your favourite photographer is similar, why not buy a few cool frames to nudge her into showing her work with pride? And on a related note, consider a gift of this book, with all sorts of great ideas on how to display your photos. I purchased it a couple of months ago, and it’s truly inspiring. I haven’t actually used any of the ideas yet, but maybe if someone buys me some picture frames …

7. Practical paraphernalia. It’s not particularly romantic or clever, but photographers can never have too many memory cards or polarizing filters, batteries or microfiber lens clothes for their cameras — just make sure you know the size of their lenses or the make and model of the specific camera, and go for it. In the alternative, if you’re afraid that all of this sounds far too technical to trust to your own judgment, a gift certificate to a local camera specialty store would always be welcome.

8. Fun stuff. And finally, there are some really cool things out there that a photographer might not think to purchase for himself, but would love to t
ry. Consider purchasing a Lensbaby, a lens which focuses one point of an image, and then warps the outer edges, creating a cool effect (see Willy Volk’s example to the right). Or, how about a super-secret spy lens: this handy contraption allows you to point your camera in any direction, misleading your subject into thinking you’re taking a picture of something else. Fantastic.

And finally, although this is technically not for still photography, it’s unreal how many photographers I’ve spoken to who said they want the Flip Video Camcorder for Christmas. And starting at US$ 149.99, for a camcorder, this is a real bargain.

Happy shopping everyone! As always, keep sending your great questions to karen.walrond@weblogsinc.com, and I’ll try to tackle them in upcoming posts. In the meantime, keep clicking.

Karen is a writer and photographer in Houston, Texas. You can see more of her work at her site, Chookooloonks.
And for more Through the Gadling Lens, click here.

Tuesday Travel Trivia (Week 8)

Tuesday Travel Trivia (the kids just call it the “Gadling T-Party”) is back for its eighth installment, and if you haven’t noticed it by now, this game is (let’s just say) sweeping the nation. Big congrats go to last week’s winner Sammy1022, as well as honorable mention awards to Matthew O’Connor and Eva, who came up this short.

As always, check out these questions and leave your non-Googled answers in the comments. Then come back next Tuesday for the answers. Here we go…

  1. To what well-known sports league do Manchester United and Chelsea F.C. belong?
  2. Which two Saudi Arabian cities are considered Islam’s holiest?
  3. The 2002 fictional travelogue You Shall Know Our Velocity, about two guys who travel the world handing out large sums of money, was written by whom?
  4. What unusual, travel-related distinction do the following celebrites share: Clint Eastwood, Morgan Freeman, Harrison Ford, Angelina Jolie, Tom Cruise, John Travolta?
  5. Alphabetically, what country comes directly after Mauritania?
  6. The 1993 film Alive was the true story of a rugby team whose plane crashed in the Andes, and who were forced to resort to cannibalism to survive. What country was the rugby team from?
  7. True or false: Norway shares a border with Russia.
  8. What is located on the second and third pages (not including the inside cover) of almost every Lonely Planet guidebook?
  9. The eight-day, free-spirited festival known as Burning Man is located in what western US desert?
  10. The names of two countries contain the letter “q” not followed by the letter “u.” What are they?

Look below the fold for the answers to last week’s trivia…

  1. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is a member of what US government department? Answer: Department of Homeland Security
  2. The titles of at least two 2008 films contained the names of European cities. Name one of them. Answer: In Bruges; Vicky, Christina, Barcelona
  3. In what city is Disneyland located? Answer: Anaheim, California
  4. The 2000 film The Beach, about backpacker culture on an idyllic Thai island, is based on a novel by what author? Answer: Alex Garland
  5. Whom do Italians refer to as Babbo Natale? Answer: Santa!
  6. The world’s largest national park is larger than 163 countries. On what large island is it located? Answer: Greenland
  7. The US has more than 27 million Facebook users, the most of any country. Which country has the second most? Answer: the UK
  8. Once an important post on the Trans-Saharan caravan route, Timbuktu is located in which West African country? Answer: Mali
  9. The Charles Bridge is located in which scenic European capital? Answer: Prague
  10. What term describes the seats occupied by airline crew and personnel during takeoff and landing? Answer: Jump seat

Plane Answers: A pilot’s inflight routine, cruising speed and chasing the dream

Welcome to Gadling’s feature, Plane Answers, where our resident airline pilot, Kent Wien, answers your questions about everything from takeoff to touchdown and beyond. Have a question of your own? Ask away!

Frank asks:

I’ve recently been on a few long flights and was wondering what the routine is like for pilots when the plane reaches cruising altitude?

‘Long-haul’ flights are a nice break from domestic flying for me. When flying domestically, the non-flying pilot (which could be the captain or the co-pilot depending on whose turn it is to fly) is listening for calls from ATC and changing frequencies as the flight crosses the country.

Transatlantic and transpacific flights require position reports to be made to ATC every 10 degrees of longitude, which is approximately every forty-five minutes. These flights are quieter than a domestic flight, since we don’t have the constant ATC chatter found over populated countries. We do monitor an emergency frequency in case a flight has a problem en route, as well as an air-to-air frequency that allows for pilots to give turbulence reports to other flights in the vicinity. If a controller needs to contact our flight, they simply chime us with a SELCAL (SELective CALL) ding.

I recently read a rather humorous story at cracked.com called “5 Jobs You Wanted as a Kid (And Why They Suck)” which reasoned that the long hours of sitting in a seat with nothing more to watch than the sky is painfully boring.

Apparently, I must have tired of simply looking at clouds all day, so I queried some of the pilots I’ve flown with recently.

“Is boredom the worst part of this job? Do you even find yourself bored while at altitude?” I asked.

After a quizzical look, they all came to the same conclusion; not one of them found boredom to be an issue. Going through security two or three times a day far out-ranked boredom.

Most of the pilots I work with have some rather interesting stories or insights to share. I rather enjoy these conversations. A few of the discussions can be rather heated during the political season, but most are about family, home DIY projects or opinions shared on more effective ways to operate the airline.

And as you may have gathered from my photos, I enjoy looking out the window occasionally. It’s a better office view than my CEO has, that’s for sure. And sometimes clouds can be spectacular:


Frank adds another question:

Who determines the cruising speed? The pilot? The FO (co-pilot)?

Cruise speed is up to the captain, who may choose to fly at the company’s planned cruising speed or another speed if conditions warrant.

The planned cruising speed is listed on our flight plan, which looks at our estimated arrival time and our fuel burn to come up with the best speed for us to fly. That said, a flight running late may fly at mach .82 instead of .80, which is only a 5 knot difference. So our best method to make up time is by keeping the speed up in the climb and descent, and arranging for any shortcuts that may be possible with ATC.

But this speed only takes into account the winds aloft and en route. It doesn’t look at how late or early the flight lifted off the ground. So some leeway is required for the captain. If the flight is running early, we’re encouraged to back off on the speed to save fuel and there’s always a chance that we won’t even have a gate available at our destination if we get there too early.

Chris asks:

Hi Kent,

I’m currently in my final year at University here in England, studying Computer Science. Although computers are a passion of mine, I would say that flying is something that interests me even more. Once I graduate and settle into a job, I hope to begin working towards my PPL and beyond.

My only concern is that of future job prospects. With the economy looking ever more glum, is pursuing a career in flight a bad choice? I’ve been told by a friend in America (who already has his PPL) that many pilots are coming up to retirement age, and also that travel is, on the whole, increasing – both of which suggest a future pilot shortage, and excellent prospects. However, airline recruitment pages right now seem to paint a very different picture, with few if any of them looking to recruit pilots – especially those with little/no experience.

I’ve read in one of your previous entries where you’ve suggested that people shouldn’t give up if “they absolutely must fly”, and that is exactly how I feel. I’m most definitely not in it for the money – of course I’d like to make enough to get by, but I understand that I won’t be pulling in a hefty salary any time soon!

So really, any advice you can offer would be most appreciated.

I hesitate to push people one way or another in their career choices. I will tell you this, however. I’ve been getting a lot of emails from readers who wish they had pursued a flying career when they had the chance even though hiring had come to a screeching halt, like it did in the late ’70s.

Had they worked toward their ratings then, they would have been perfectly placed to enjoy the boom that started in 1984 and continued to 1991. After those seven years, we saw another seven years of lackluster recruitment followed by another mini-boom that lasted from 1998 to 2001. The slump we’re seeing since then has been unprecedented.

This weekend, an article in the Fort Worth Star Telegram says it all: Pilot hiring is at lowest point since 9-11, firm says.

AIR Inc., a pilot hiring information service that is often upbeat about future job prospects, lays out the numbers:

133 pilots hired in November compared to 1,084 in November of ’07. And over 4,000 pilots are still on furlough in the U.S.

These facts demonstrate the cyclical nature of the airlines. Junior pilots and flight attendants are hired, laid off and rehired. Airlines fold and employees scatter. Even the corporate fractional operators, once o
ffering a great opportunity for advancement to the left seat, are slowing down, having hired just ten pilots in October according to AIR Inc.

Finally, the increase in the pilot retirement age from 60 to 65 that occurred in the U.S. last December has meant that fewer pilots are retiring at most airlines. It will be another four years before pilots see mandatory retirements happen at their airlines.

But as long as people have a need to travel, there will be flying jobs in the U.S. and Europe. You can take your flight training in stages while working your IT job, acquire ratings as you have the time and money and hopefully you’ll be ready when things turn around. Last summer there was a brief period where regional airlines were hiring 250 to 400 hour pilots into the right seat of a jet.

My father discouraged me from flying since the industry was going through such turmoil just before I started my lessons. He thought maybe I should become a private pilot and earn a living elsewhere while simply flying for fun when I could. I considered his advice, but I knew that I wouldn’t be as happy with any other job. It’s a choice I don’t regret.

Someone once said that the road to success is dotted with many tempting parking places. So as hard as it’d be to chase the dream without success, the one dream you don’t chase could be the one regret you live with for a long time.

Just keep in mind, someone has to fly those planes over your head. It may as well be you.

Do you have a question about something related to the pointy end of an airplane? Ask Kent and maybe he’ll use it for next Monday’s Plane Answers