Talking travel with David Grann

David Grann, author of the now New York Times Bestselling book “The Lost City of Z” and contributor to various publications such as The New Yorker, Wall Street Journal, and Boston Globe, was gracious enough to set aside some precious time to correspond with me via email to talk travel and his latest travel and writing endeavors. This correspondence took place a few weeks ago, but I’ve only just now had the opportunity to post this Q&A.

BY: Thanks for taking time away from your busy book tour to correspond with Gadling. Where are you now, and what are your travel plans (both book and non-book related) for the coming year?
DG: I’ve been working on an article for The New Yorker that has led me to Texas and Oklahoma, two places I’ve never spent much time. I don’t yet know where my next destination will be, as I tend go wherever each new story leads me.


BY: Can you briefly describe for our Gadling readers the kind of traveler you are? How often do you travel? Where is your dream destination? What is your preferred mode of travel?

DG: As I describe in “The Lost City of Z,” I’m not an explorer or an adventurer. I don’t climb mountains or like to camp. But while I’m working on stories, I tend to go places and do things I never would otherwise. I’ve chased giant squid in a violent storm off the coast of New Zealand, crawled through tunnels thousands of feet beneath the street of Manhattan, and searched for a lost city in the middle of the Amazon. I never think of any of these places as my dream destination, but perhaps that is partly why I’m so drawn to them: they transport me into an unfamiliar world.
BY: Based on all of the failed missions to the Amazon to uncover the truth behind the Lost City of Z, why did you feel so compelled to embark on an expedition of your own?
DG: When I first started researching what has been described as “the greatest exploration mystery of the twentieth century,” I never thought that I would venture into the jungle. My intention was simply to write about Fawcett and the countless numbers who had perished trying to find evidence of his missing party and the City of Z. But one day, in the house of a Fawcett descendent, I uncovered a hidden trove of Fawcett’s diaries and logbooks. These held new clues about his fate and the whereabouts of Z. It was only then that I decided to do something totally out of character and head into the jungle.

BY: How would you qualify “The Lost City of Z” as a traveler’s tale?

DG: The book is partly a travelogue about a little known part of the world; it is also a biography of a once legendary explorer who has since been largely forgotten, and a guide to some of the archeological research that is exploding our perceptions about what the Americas really looked like before the arrival of Christopher Columbus.

BY: What did you learn about yourself as a writer/traveler? Would you do anything differently if you had another opportunity to travel in a similar fashion?
DG: I learned a lot about the nature of obsession. I had read about biographers who had been driven slightly mad by their subjects, and that’s how I sometimes felt chasing the specter of Fawcett. And if I could go back in time, the one thing I know I would do differently is make sure that I never became separated from my guide and got lost in the wilderness.


BY: The opening of your book describes an experience you had in the jungle when you felt you were in over your head. You asked yourself, “What am I doing here?” This is something nearly every traveler thinks at least once in their lives. Despite the fears and anxieties one might feel abroad, do you feel traveling is an essential part of the human experience? How so?

DG: I think that the desire to venture to distant places, and to hear stories about such journeys, are deeply ingrained in us. There is a reason why quests are so central to ancient myths and fairy tales, and why people for centuries have made journeys even at the risk of their own lives.

BY: What do you hope readers and travelers will learn from reading “The Lost City of Z”?

DG: I hope that they will learn not only about Fawcett, who was one of most daring and eccentric explorers ever to set foot in the Americas, but also about the Amazon-a wilderness area virtually the size of the continental United States. Even today, the Brazilian government estimates that there are more than sixty Amazonian tribes that have never been contacted by outsiders. Sydney Possuelo, who was in charge of the Brazilian department set up to protect Indian tribes, has said of these groups, “No one knows for sure who they are, where they are, how many they are, and what languages they speak.” In recent years, archeologists, using satellite imagery and ground penetrating radars to pinpoint buried artifacts, have begun to make discoveries that are overturning virtually everything that was once believed about the Amazon and its early inhabitants.

BY: What will be your next project? Has this book made you more or less ambitious to explore other parts or histories in the world?

DG: I’m still not sure what will be my next book. As with “The City of Z,” I often don’t realize I’m fully in the grip of a story, until I’m doing something I never thought I would, like following in the footsteps of an explorer who disappeared in the jungle some eighty years earlier. Yet researching the book-including studying the Victorian era and staying with many of the same Amazonian tribes that Fawcett had on his fateful journey–has only deepened my curiosity about the world.

Mr. Grann’s latest news and events can be found HERE. You can read my review of “The Lost City of Z” HERE. I would like to thank Mr. Grann taking time from his busy book tour and writing schedule to correspond with me, and look forward to his next installment.

Undiscovered New York: Cooking up a storm

It’s no big secret that New York is absolutely spoiled for choice when it comes to food. If you need any proof, Undiscovered New York has already reviewed a whole slew of New York City’s more interesting eating neighborhoods and cuisines.

Yet one of the greatest benefits of all this great food is that you don’t even have to go to one of New York’s many restaurants to enjoy it. New York is also a really great place to learn more about the art and science of food, including the practicalities of how to cook it. Whether you’re an avid Top Chef viewer looking to kick off that fledgling culinary career, or just a casual cooking fan looking to pick up a new skill, the city has a diverse range of culinary schools and classes to fit your timing and budget.

The other truth about New Yorkers and food is that they’re not just passionate about great cooking – they’re passionate about great ingredients. Ever wonder why some people swoon over a great Pinot or some smooth French Brie? Or why New Yorkers like to hate on Starbucks coffee so much? Plan to make time for a number of great food classes specializing in the intricacies of palate-pleasing foods like cheese, wine and coffee.

So go grab those chef pants, cleanse that palate and bring along your best whisk, this week Undiscovered New York shows you how to “cook up a storm” on your next visit. Click below to learn where…
Cooking Classes
Not only is taking a cooking class a great way to learn a new skill. It’s also a great way to learn more about what makes New York tick. Each year thousands of students come to the city hoping to catch their big break at one of New York’s world-class restaurants. Many inevitably find their way to one of the city’s several culinary schools. But the best part is that temporary visitors can also take advantage of these school’s programs by taking a day-long class.

In addition to 6 and 11 month-long career programs, The Institute for Culinary Education also offers 4-5 hour “recreational” sessions on a variety of cuisines. For around $100, you can learn how to make your own sushi, cook a great risotto or taste a few craft beers. Why not take a cooking class with you and that special someone? Or get a gift certificate for an interesting birthday present?

Great Coffee
New York coffee chain Joe The Art of Coffee is serious about their brew. It’s only natural then that the chain also offers a variety of java-themed courses to help teach joe-lovers a thing or two about a quality cup. If you’ve ever wanted to know more about espresso, proper milk steaming techniques or how to brew a great cup of coffee at home, stop by one of several locations around the city and check out one of their classes.

Wine and Cheese
Wine is one of those food products that tends to intimidate many drinkers. Between all the different grape varieties, food pairings and vintages, it can be downright confusing to know what’s good and what’s merely a ripoff. Want to look like the hero the next time you order a bottle at dinner? Get in touch with the helpful team at NYC Wine Class, offering a range of courses exploring food and wine pairings, regional specific wine tastings and courses in wine and cheese.

If you’d like to skip the wine altogether and just fill up on some delicious cheese, head to cheese experts at Murray’s for one of their regular classes on everyone’s favorite dairy product.

Tuesday Travel Trivia (Week 24)

It’s Tuesday, and that means it’s time for some headache-inducing, brain-busting travel trivia questions.

Mad props to last week‘s winners Eva and nzm, who both answered nine out of ten correctly.

Want to become this week’s champ? Check out the following ten queries and post your answers in the Comments. Come back next Tuesday for the answers. Good luck!

  1. What famous New Zealander who died last year was famously quoted as saying, “Well, George, we knocked the bastard off”?
  2. What 2004 film recounts the legendary journey across South America by Che Guevara and Alberto Granado?
  3. This week marks the debut of two new Major League baseball stadiums (stadia?) located in New York City. What are their names?
  4. Often referred to as a “squiggly line” or an “en-yay”, this character used in Spanish (~) is properly known as what?
  5. National Geographic‘s travel blog is one of the best in the business. What’s its name?
  6. What is the only territory in South America whose currency is the Euro?
  7. Located in New York City, the French restaurant Les Halles once featured a (now) very well-known executive chef. Who was it?
  8. True or false: The country of Saudi Arabia has its own category on Craigslist.
  9. What five-letter word describes a type of toilet, also known as an Eastern or Natural-Position toilet, that often appears to be nothing more than a hole in the ground?
  10. The internet domain suffix .de is used for websites originating in what country?

Last week’s answers are posted below the fold…

  1. At around 400 meters below sea level, what is the lowest point on earth? Answer: The Dead Sea
  2. The country of Lesotho (pictured) is an enclave entirely surrounded by which African nation? Answer: South Africa
  3. True or false: There is a Lonely Planet guidebook that covers North Korea. Answer: True
  4. What Arabic word that begins with “m” means “school”? Answer: Madrasah
  5. Which 1982 Toto song– and I’m sure you know many– contained the following line, once voted the worst song lyric of all time: “The wild dogs cry out in the night, As they grow restless longing for some solitary company, I know that I must do what’s right, Sure as Kilimanjaro rises like Olympus above the Serengeti.”? Answer: “Africa”
  6. What long parcel of land stretches from Mexicali, Mexico, in the north to Cabo San Lucas in the south? Answer: Baja, California (Mexico)
  7. About what 1989 time-traveling comedy did USA Today write, “Wow, dudes. Pu-trid.”? Answer: Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure (not to be confused with its sequel, Bill & Ted’s Bogus Journey)
  8. Which country in the world has the most Christians? Answer: The US
  9. What language does Wikipedia call “the most widely spoken constructed international auxiliary language in the world”? Answer: Esperanto
  10. What European capital is (among other things) the headquarters of Heineken International? Answer: Amsterdam

How to destroy V Australia’s $23M flight simulator

I thought that I was the luckiest person in the world when Ken Pascoe and Marty Khoury, two pilots from V Australia invited me, a lowly blogger, out to visit them and their flight simulator out in Australia last week. Sure, I edit a travel blog and I do run Linux, but that usually can only get me so far.

So I was thrilled to accept the invitation and join the crew out in Silverwater, just outside of Sydney, last Monday. As I detailed last week, Ken picked me up at the train station and showed me around the CAE facility and cockpit, then the safety briefing started.

“Should we lose power and the gangway not extend to the sim, the escape hatch and rope are just outside of the cockpit,” Ken explained.

“Furthermore, if anything goes wrong during the flight, emergency stop buttons are here, here and here.” He pointed to a spot next to each seat and to two on the wall of the cockpit. “But you won’t have to hit those — I’ll have probably already reset the system once you realize something has gone wrong. Now, grab a seat.”

Pulling my SLR camera out of its bag and stepping towards the left seat, I paused, and turned to my companion, thinking that it would be best for me to film part of the experience before taking my turn. And that’s when the lights turned off and everything ground to a halt. Think of the noise you hear when a subway or train shuts down, it’s eerily quiet and something doesn’t sound right. Or the sound of broken dreams. That’s the one. I had pressed the emergency stop button with my shoulder when I turned around.
Note, that there are two emergency stop buttons on the wall of the cockpit: there’s the “turn off the movement and relax” stop and then there’s the “pull the plug on thirty computers, rip the circuit boards from the machine and stomp on them” stop. That second one is the one that I pressed.

“No worries,” said Ken, “this has happened before.” And as we left the cockpit, he gave a nervous chuckle. “We’ll be up in no time.”

Ah, but we weren’t. After an hour of pulling circuit boards out of the machine, two techs determined that they might have to order another board. My session and a later, real pilot’s session were definitely canceled.

Later that evening I got a text message from Ken saying that they figured out the problem after replacing two circuit boards, and that I should swing back as soon as I could. But by that point I was already headed towards Auckland.

Maybe next time, V Australia.

Galley Gossip: The passenger didn’t ask for much

It happened right after the woman wearing black yelled at me because she had to wait in line to use the lavatory in coach, and that happened shortly after I noticed she, the woman wearing nothing but black, was eyeing the bathroom in business class, which is officially designated as the business class bathroom, which explains why there were three business class passengers stretching in line as they patiently waited their turn.

I pointed to the rear of the aircraft. “There are two other bathrooms in the back and I only see one person waiting in line.”

The woman in black looked at me as if I had two heads and snapped, “I fly international all the time and we always travel in business class.” I smiled and did not point out the obvious, that today she sat in coach. She glared at me and added, “I’ve never been so uncomfortable in my life!” Then she went on to use the phrase cattle car three or four times in three or four different sentences, giving me a piece of her mind. All this because she didn’t want to wait in line to use the bathroom like everyone else. Thankfully we only had thirty minutes left in flight.

“Is there anything I can do to make this flight better for you?” I asked. It’s true, I really did ask that. Of course she had no suggestions – none, zero, zilch. But she did call me honey and used the word cattle car one more time before stomping off to the back.

This is when it happened. This is when I took a deep breath, turned, and the young woman who had complained about feeling sick before we even took off out of Los Angeles, the one I had tried to talk into not flying because she felt sick, the same one who may or may not have thrown up in the bathroom (depending on who you asked), which in turn may or may not have been the reason why the sink was now overflowing with what may or may not have been water, brown water, and why the bathroom had been locked off, looked at me angrily and said, “I haven’t asked for much on this flight!”

Oh really?

This passenger had asked for more than any other passenger in my fourteen years of flying! But I did not tell her that. Instead I kept my mouth shut and got down on one knee, like I had several times before on the flight, looked her in the red eyes, and listened as she not so very nicely added, “And I’ve been pretty nice on this flight, considering the circumstances…”

The circumstances? I just nodded and waited for what I knew would be an insane request, because all she had done the entire flight was make odd requests. Oh she did not disappoint when she demanded to be the first one off the airplane when we landed.

That was not going to happen. She sat in coach. There were at least 40 passengers ahead of her in first class and business class combined.

“The only way you’re going to get off this airplane before anyone else does is if we call the paramedics to meet the flight,” I told her very sternly. “Do you want me to tell the Captain you’re sick so he can radio the ground?” It was not the first time I had asked, nor was it the first time she had declined.

How it all went down…

During boarding – There I stood between business class and coach greeting passengers and hanging coats when she who looked to be in her early twenties pulled me aside and told me she felt ill, that she’d been sick all day, that she had a fever, and then she looked me earnestly in the eye and asked, “Is there a first class seat available?”

Immediately the bells began to ring in my head – alert, alert – scammer, drama queen! I told her no, because there were no seats available. And even if there had been an open seat she still would not have sat there, considering she paid for coach, not first. Then I suggested she deplane, talk to the agent, and take another flight when she felt better. I didn’t want our passengers to get sick and I definitely didn’t want to bring whatever she may or may not have had back home to my two year-old son. Of course she waved me away and told me she’d be fine.

During the beverage service – Because her seat was beside the business class galley and because I happened to be working in business class that day, she rang her call light and looked directly at me. I held a linen lined tray in one hand, four drinks balancing on top – diet coke, water, ginger ale, and Chardonnay, when she said, “I don’t feel very good. Can I have a cup of tea. But not in a Styrofoam cup. Can I get it in a mug, a real mug.”

I forced a smile and nodded.

“Oh do you have herbal tea?”

During the meal service – As my partner and I picked up thirty meal trays and shoved them into a dirty cart, I heard her say it once again, that she was ill, which was quickly followed by, “Can I get something to eat?”

“Of course.” I told her the buy-on-board food options in coach, but she just shook her head and said, “I can’t eat that. I have a special diet. Do you have any cooked vegetables?”

“Cooked vegetables,” I repeated, wondering why she didn’t bring her own cooked vegetables on board with her since she had such a special diet. Please note that I normally never – ever – offer business class food to coach passengers, but she did look a little pale and I did not want to divert. “All we have left in business class are rolls and cheese and crackers.”

Turns out she couldn’t eat rolls. She couldn’t eat cheese. She couldn’t eat crackers. She couldn’t eat salad. She couldn’t eat nuts. She couldn’t even eat chocolate – chocolate! Nor could she eat the delicious homemade combination fried rice the passenger sitting directly in front her had kindly offered. (So I did. It was amazing. Thank you Mr. Exit Row Passenger!) The only thing she could eat were cooked veggies, so I went up to first class to see what was left over after the service and not only did I find uncooked peas from the salad cart, the lead flight attendant actually allowed me to take the first class peas to a coach passenger.

I handed the young woman a silver spoon and a silver bowl of peas. No thank you. No nothing. She took two bites, made a face, and handed it back to me.

During the dessert service – We were just about to pull the carts to the front of business class and start the dessert service when she rang the call light. I didn’t have to walk far to turn the light off. The unfortunate passenger sitting beside her rolled his eyes as she said, “I’m violently ill and I need your help to get to the bathroom.”

“Okay.” The bathroom was four steps away from her seat. “Give me a second.”

In the galley I told my colleagues the dessert service was now on hold so I could assist a sick passenger to the lavatory. But when I went to help her stand, grabbing her elbow to help her up, she got to her feet and walked to the bathroom like there was nothing wrong. I handed her a barf bag, shut the door, told her I’d return to check on her later, and then went back to my dessert cart.

After the service – “I’m not going to make it,” I barely heard her mumble as I passed her seat on my way to the galley in coach.

Quickly I spun around. “What do you mean you’re not going to make it? Do I need to page for a doctor?”

“No no no, I just need…potatoes. Do you have any potatoes?” she asked, and when she asked this it sounded as if it took all her energy just to get the words out.

I took a deep breath and sighed. “We do not have potatoes on board our flight today. Just potato chips. Which you said you can’t eat. Are you sure you don’t want club soda or a roll because that will make you feel better.”

“Yes, I’m sure. Are you sure there aren’t any potatoes?”

It was during the potato request that the lady wearing black appeared. Remember her? The one who didn’t want to wait in line to use the lavatory? So when the one in black tartly called me honey and then stormed off to the back right before the sick one in need of potatoes said that she hadn’t asked for much, it took all my might not to remind her all that she had, in fact, asked for – a first class seat, a business class mug, cooked vegetables, help to the bathroom, potatoes, and to deplane first. That’s it. Nothing more.

Photos courtesy of (occupied) travelin librarian, (coach) carrib, (barf bag) ben howes – flicker.com