Undiscovered New York: Life and death in the graveyards of Staten Island

Staten Island. It’s a name many New Yorkers invoke with disdain. And tourists? The city is lucky if they venture beyond Manhattan to the borough of Brooklyn. But despite this poor reputation, there are plenty of reasons to visit New York City’s fifth borough.

True, it’s never going to offer the glitzy shopping and haute cuisine of its ritzy neighbor Manhattan to the north. But urban explorers, history buffs and adventurers take note: what the borough lacks in picturesque vistas, it more than makes up for with “edgy” character and quirky sites of interest. My favorite? The Staten Island boat graveyard.

For those that do not know, Staten Island is home to what used to be the world’s largest trash heap at Fresh Kills. For years, the city of New York dumped thousands (if not millions) of tons of garbage on this site, creating one of Staten Island’s more imposing geographical landmarks. Gross, right? While even an adventurous traveler like myself might skip a site filled with old diapers and decaying chicken bones, all that trash has provided an interesting side-attraction in the form of huge fleet of half-sunken abandoned boats. Want to know more? Click on through the link to continue.Rather than sink the vessels elsewhere, the city of New York has chosen this sliver of water between the island of Staten and the coast of New Jersey as the final resting place for dozens of ships. The many boats sit half beneath the surface, silent sentinels to formerly productive seafaring lives.

As these old relics of wood and steel are ravaged by the salt and air, their decay leaves behind some strangely beautiful works of art. As wood rots away, rusty metal skeletons emerge and decks lie at odd angles, half submerged and half afloat above the murky water’s surface. Just beyond lies the hulking mass of the former landfill, gently sloping off in the distance. Needless to say the atmospheric surroundings make for an awesome setting for photography buffs.

Perhaps even more intriguing is that this isn’t the only graveyard in the area. Yet another forgotten Staten Island graveyard lies within easy view, but a graveyard of a very different sort. At the edge of the salty marshland leading to the boats is a small cemetery called the Blazing Star Burial Ground. The cemetery houses the final remains of Staten Island residents dating back to the 1750’s when the area was the site of a popular ferry crossing and roadhouse. As you stroll among the small plot of ancient gravestones it’s hard not to wonder about the inhabitants who made this once-pristine vista their final resting place. Could anyone have imagined how drastically their view would change?

So how does one find this hidden gem? Well, first you need to find a way out to Staten Island. Although it’s not impossible to use a combination of mass transit with ferries, trains and buses, a car is much preferred in this case. The site is located near the town of Rossville, on Arthur Kill Road. Not to be a tease, but that’s all we’re giving away. That’s what Google Maps is for, right? This is supposed to be an adventure after all, and any good adventure is not without its intrinsic risks and uncertainties. Happy exploring!

Galley Gossip: The art of maintaining service (when service is the last thing on the mind)

Sitting on the jump-seat in the back of coach, working a flight from New York to Los Angeles aboard a 767, I turned to Stephanie, my coworker, and sighed. “I have to tell you, I was getting a little nervous there for a minute.”

“I know,” Stephanie laughed, even though she was not laughing an hour ago.

I should have known it was going to be one of those days when I spotted the flight attendant slipping her navy blue pantyhose feet into a cheap pair of white house shoes, the kind you snag from a nice hotel, just to go through security.

“Ma’am,” I said eyeing her Travelpro suitcase, not her funny feet, as I placed my own wheelie bag onto the moving conveyor belt, “Are those three large cobs of corn sticking out of the back of your rollaboard?”

“Yes,” she said matter of fact.

I laughed, attaching my tote-bag to my rolling bag, but she did not laugh back, as she slipped her feet into a pair of black leather heels, placing the house shoes inside the back pocket of her rollaboard next to the cobs of corn, and walked away.

Okay, that’s weird, I remember thinking, as I walked to flight operations. Little did I know, that was just the beginning of weird.

We were midway through the beverage service in coach when it hit me. I had just poured a cup of coffee when I smelled a strange smell. It was the kind of smell you do not want to smell, particularly in flight. Now this wasn’t that smell flight attendants often use coffee packets in the lavatory to disguise. Oh no, this was a burning smell. Maybe even a plastic burning smell. Or was it an electrical burning smell? I couldn’t tell. While I tried to figure it out, I handed a passenger a cup of water, no ice, and looked across the cart at Stephanie who had three cups of orange juice in one hand.

“Can I get you something to drink?” I asked the next passenger, not making eye contact, as I still stood staring at Stephanie, who would not look at me no matter how long I stared at her.

I cleared my throat, but she did not look, so I glanced across the aisle at Ben, another coworker, who had just handed a passenger a breakfast sandwich. Too busy counting a wad of cash, Ben did not notice me either. As for his partner on the other side of the cart, she was bent over a passenger plugging in a set of headphones into the armrest. Just business as usual flying across the country, except for that strange scent in the cabin that only I seemed to smell.

I’ll admit that after having recently attended recurrent training, where flight attendants go to review everything from security procedures to CPR, I was a tad bit sensitive when it came to things that were…well…out of the ordinary, even just slightly out of the ordinary things, which I have to think is a normal reaction for most flight attendants after going through two stressful days of torture at the training facility each year. I mean I’m sure that’s why we go through recurrent training in the first place, so that we don’t become desensitized to all the different things we experience out on the line, so that we don’t become complacent and ignore the things that should not be ignored, no matter how trivial they may seem, or smell, at first. However some of us may have a tendency to become a wee bit paranoid , like me, after being bombarded with all those what-if scenarios, especially the fire fighting scenarios, at training.

As I continued to stare at Stephanie, I popped open a can of cranberry juice. Finally she met my gaze. I opened my eyes wide, cocked my head, and mouthed, Smell that? I could see her nose at work as she sniffed the air. She made a face and nodded in agreement. Together we glanced across the aisle at Ben, who was now looking at us curiously.

What, Ben mouthed at me, while placing a can of apple juice on a passenger’s tray table.

I tapped my nose three times, and then handed a passenger a napkin and a glass of ice. Ben nodded. I gulped. It was getting stronger.

“I’m going to call the cockpit,” I told Stephanie.

On my way to the back of the cabin, a call light rang. I stopped, turned off the orange light, and asked the man with the messy hair and the blue eye mask wrapped around his neck, “Need something?”

“There’s a strange smell in the cabin,” said the man with a British accent, rubbing his blinking eyes.

“Yeah, I smell it, too,” mumbled a woman, his seatmate, who had, until that moment, also been sleeping.

I rang the pilots in the cockpit, along with the flight attendant working in first class, and watched as Ben and Stephanie professionally maintained the beverage service in main cabin. After going over the details involving the smell – the type of smell, the strength of the smell, the location of the smell, the passengers seated near the smell, how long I’d smelled the smell, etc – I asked the purser, “Can you come back here and check it out?”

Two seconds later the purser, a no nonsense kind of woman, a take charge kind of person, the kind of flight attendant you want working with you whenever there’s a problem on-board a flight, came strolling down the aisle. She leaned over Stephanie and whispered, “I smell it. The cockpit wants you to feel the floor to see if it’s hot.”

I gulped. “Okay.”

Now if I hadn’t recently gone to recurrent training just a few months ago, and had not seen the video of the flight attendant who had fought a fire during flight, and the brilliant thing she had done prior to fighting the fire located under the floor boards of the airplane, I may have actually bent down on my hands and knees and touched that nasty carpet, which is something you probably don’t want to do when eyes are focused on you. Not when your main priority is to keep the passengers calm. Instead I slipped off my shoes, just like the flight attendant had done in the training video, and smiled as I walked down the aisle, very slowly, into the back galley where I grabbed a stack of plastic cups. Back to the cart I walked, very slowly, feeling the floor for heat. Of course the woman who had been sleeping next to the British man had seen me slip off my shoes, and was now looking at me exactly the way I imagined I had looked at the flight attendant with the corn cobs sticking out of her bag, like I was weird.

“That’s strange,” I heard her whisper to her seatmate, as I passed her row.

Back at the beverage cart, I slipped my shoes back on, simultaneously grabbing a couple packets of equal and a stir stick, handing them to the passenger I had last served, before asking Stephanie, “Can you pass the milk?”

As Stephanie handed me a small carton of fat free milk, I shook my head no, indicating that the floor was not hot. Thank god.

We clicked the brake and moved the cart three rows back, and while watching the purser communicating to the cockpit via inter-phone, I asked a passenger, “Care for something to drink?”

The purser hung up the phone and walked back to the cart, very slowly. With a puzzled look on her face, she handed Stephanie a stack of napkins and whispered, “I don’t smell it anymore.”

“Me neither,” Stephanie and I quietly said simultaneously.

And just like that the smell was gone (never to return again), the British man and his seatmate had fallen back to sleep, and the beverage service continued as normal. The rest of the flight, I’m happy to report, went without further incident. Thank god.

So the next time you find yourself trapped on a miserable flight, just remember that the flight attendant, that overpaid waitress in the sky who is taking entirely way too long to get to your row, isn’t just there to help you find a place to stow your luggage and serve you the beverage of your choice, even though it may appear to be so, she’s really there for your safety, and while she’s there, always monitoring the cabin at 35,000 feet, she’ll ask you if you’d like something to drink.

Big in Japan: So, you want to learn Japanese…

The best way to learn Japanese, at least according to the old joke, is to be born in Japan, to have Japanese parents, to go to Japanese Kindergarten…

(You get the idea!)

For the rest of us however, the only way of wrapping of our minds around the linguistic enigma that is Japanese is to spend years and years slaving away over complex characters, grueling grammar patterns and formal phrases that seem to defy all manners of sensible logic.

But seriously, it really isn’t that bad, and even if you never fully master Japanese, at least you can look cool ordering sushi in front of all of your envious friends!

On that note, this week’s Big in Japan is devoted to unraveling the mysteries of ???????? (nihongo, Japanese).

While we’re certainly not promising that you’ll be able to learn Japanese in just a few clicks of the mouse, at least you’ll get a good sense of how it is that you can draw meaning from all of those crazy scribbles.

So, without further adieu, let’s start with the basics (^O^)>??????????

Here is the good news:

Unlike Mandarin or Cantonese, which have distinct tones that are often incomprehensible to Westerners, Japanese is more or less monotone, and actually has the same phonemes as Italian and Spanish. As a result, Japanese is extremely easy to pronounce, has a relatively small sound inventory, and generally has much shorter sentences than English.

Japanese vocabulary has also been heavily influenced by loan words from other languages. For over a period of 1,500 years, Japanese borrowed extensively from Chinese, though since the 19th century, English has been supplying long lists of new words. In fact, novice speakers of Japanese are pleasantly surprised to learn that they already know a fair bit of the language.

Here is the bad news:

Japanese is distinguished by a complex system of honorifics that reflects the hierarchical nature of Japanese society. This means that specific verb forms and vocabulary indicate the relative status of the speaker and the listener. Needless to say, this inherent complexity is ripe with potential pitfalls for non-native speakers, especally since you can offend your listener and call into question their social status just by mixing up a single word.

And of course, no mention of Japanese would be complete without paying tribute to its masochistic system of writing, which is comprised of no less than three different sets of scripts – four if you include the Latin alphabet, rōmaji (ローマ字). The fact that most Japanese people can’t fully comprehend a newspaper until high school is proof enough that written Japanese is, quite frankly, a bitch to learn.

The Japanese language is written with a combination of three different types of scripts: traditional Chinese characters or kanji (漢字 / かんじ),and two syllabic scripts known as hiragana (平仮名 / ひらがな) and katakana (片仮名 / カタカナ). So, if you thought learning your ABCs was difficult, consider for a moment that both hiragana and katakana have around 50 unique characters each, and there are quite literally thousands and thousands of kanji to memorize.

Still want to learn how to speak 日本語? Sure you do!

Tune in on Wednesday for tips on how to crash course Japanese…

** All images are courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **

Plane Answers: Rudder pedals, window shades and a call out for an actress

Welcome to Gadling’s Friday feature, Plane Answers, where our resident airline pilot, Kent Wien, answers your questions about everything from takeoff to touchdown and beyond. Have a question of your own? Ask away!

Lee asks:

How is it that the plane stays straight as it’s accelerating down the runway? Is there an actual “steering wheel” of sorts that one of the pilots steers? If so, is it an “art” or talent of such to keep the airplane straight?

On the captain’s side of the airplane, next to his left knee is a ’tiller’ that helps him steer the airplane at slow speeds-anything less than 40 knots or so. The captain will steer the airplane onto the runway and once it’s aligned he’ll take his hand off the tiller. Either he or the co-pilot will then make the takeoff using their rudder pedals.

Unlike the pedals found in your car a car, the rudder pedals on an airplane do three things. They allow a pilot to steer on the ground left and right, turning the nosewheel up to six degrees either way at full deflection. They also control the rudder, which is most essential when flying on one engine when pilots need to counter the yaw associated with an engine failure, or when landing in a crosswind when pilots will use the rudder to align the airplane with the runway just before touching down.
757 Tiller:

The rudder pedals are also used to activate the hydraulic brakes by pressing on the top of each pedal. Left side has the left brake and the right side has the right.

While there may not be much ‘art’ to it, I enjoy trying to make frequent but tiny corrections while going down the runway since anyone sitting in the very back will feel each movement of the rudder. It’s also nice to avoid taking off directly down the center of the runway, since runway centerline lights are installed there which create a banging noise each time the nosewheel tire runs over them. So offsetting just a foot to the right or left is a common practice.

Robert asks:

I’ve noticed after takeoff when climbing (I’m always listening to make sure the engines are running) that the speed of the engines will slow down a little even though we haven’t reached are cruising altitude. Why?

Most airplanes have a limitation by the manufacturer for the takeoff power setting not to exceed five minutes. To make sure pilots don’t close in on that limitation, the procedure at almost every airport in the U.S. is to reduce the power at 1000 feet (1500 feet in Europe) by selecting ‘climb power’ which is slightly less thrust than takeoff power.

Some airports, most notably Orange County in Santa Ana, California have special procedures where the power must be reduced even more aggressively after takeoff as a way to ‘reduce the volume’ when flying over noise-sensitive residential areas.

Susan asks an unusual question:

While flying from Fresno to Dallas, the cockpit announced an actress’s name upon take off and landing. What’s that about?

I have no idea. Has anyone else out there heard this? You do have me curious though; which actress?

Roxanne wonders:

I fly a local airline inter-island in hawaii and to the west coast. On preparing for landing everyone is asked of course for seat to be put upright, tray tables closed and fastened, but they also ask that window shades be opened. Why? I couldn’t figure this one out.

Since it’s not a procedure at my airline, I can only guess the reason. Just as there are airlines that require cabin lighting to be dimmed during landing, perhaps the Hawaiian carrier wants to improve the flight attendant’s ability to assess any potential problems during or after landing. This requirement seems to be more common among non-U.S. carriers.

During a recent televised emergency landing of an MD-80, passengers were asked to lower their shades. I’ve never come up with a good reason for this, but I’m sure someone out there knows. Anyone?

Do you have a question about something related to the pointy end of an airplane? Ask Kent and maybe he’ll use it for next Friday’s Plane Answers feature.

Galley Gossip: The people you meet, the places you want to go – Portugal, Greece, Hong Kong, Croatia, and Dubai

Though I have no idea when it will actually happen, I can’t decide where to travel on my next big vacation…

  • Greece
  • Hong Kong
  • Croatia
  • Dubai

That’s been my list of dream places to go for the last few years. But now I’ve got a new place to add to the list, a list that just keeps growing.

  • Portugal

Man oh man, the people you meet, the places you want to go…

Alice, my hairdresser is from Portugal, and that’s what we talk about every time I see her, which is at least once a month. It was the morning of my Las Vegas trip, and while Alice worked her magic on my hair, I sat in front of the mirror on a swiveling chair catching up on the latest travel magazines that customers before me had left behind. Of course whenever I see Alice I can’t help but talk travel while flipping through all those amazing photographs of beautiful places all around the world.

While reading an interesting article about a little town in Croatia, Alice said, “You’ve got to go to Portugal. It’s beautiful.” She had just returned from a two week vacation that very week, which explained the dark tan and the honey colored streaks in her auburn hair.

Placing a copy of Travel and Leisure on my lap, I listened as she described Vilamoura, the village by the sea where she grew up, where she had just visited, and as she described the fresh food, seafood of course, I decided right then and there I wanted to go. Soon. If you’d been there with me you’d want to go too! When my curly hair had been straightened as straight as it could get, I went home, got on the computer, and started googling Portugal.

Alice was right. Portugal is beautiful. I do want to go. But with so many places to go, and not enough time to actually go, how does one decide which place to go – first?

Greece has been on my list for as long as I can remember. So long, in fact, I can’t even remember how or why Greece initially made the list in the first place, but there it is, right at the top, where it’s been for years and years now. There’s just something about all those stark white homes against a sea of blue that leaves me yearning for more. Of course the movie Mama Mia only made me realize I need to get there sooner than later.

Hong Kong made the list last year after the husband returned home from a business trip. Initially he didn’t want to go. Complained about having to go. But then, when he finally returned, all he could talk about was going back. “It’s amazing,” he kept saying as he described the buildings and the food and the tailor who eventually shipped him three custom made suits. Then, last month an old friend from an old job contacted me on Facebook to inform me she still worked for the same company, only she was now VP of the company in Hong Kong, ending the email with “Come visit me soon,” prompting the husband to exclaim, “What are we waiting for!”

Croatia made the list five years ago after viewing hundreds of gorgeous photos taken by a young man, a budding photographer, the son of a woman who works for my husband in New York. The photos were beautiful, particularly the ones of the people who lived there – his relatives. “You can stay at one of their houses,” he offered, “While they stay at a hotel.” It was a tempting offer. We came very close to spending our honeymoon in Croatia, but then the war broke out and after 9/11 I was a little nervous about flying too far away from home. We ended up in Mexico. Since then, each and every year, we come THIS CLOSE to going to Croatia, which is really really close, before someone or something inspires us to go elsewhere. Eventually we’ll make it there.

Dubai is the most recent place to make the list. I must admit, the thought of actually traveling for that long of time on an airplane does not sound like a vacation, not to me, not when you work on an airplane for a living. The last thing a flight attendant wants to do is go to the airport, get on an airplane, and be surrounded by passengers on a day off, for any length of time. But I keep meeting passengers who absolutely love Dubai. On my flight to Vegas, the British man sitting in the first row couldn’t stop talking about the airport – the airport! Apparently it’s pretty incredible. And that’s just the airport! And on my flight to Miami, if the passengers weren’t going to Dubai, they were coming back from Dubai, or had just recently been to Dubai. I even shared a cab with a flight attendant who worked for another airline who wanted to quit and become a flight attendant for Emirates, just so he could live in Dubai (and layover in five star hotels.) With all this talk about Dubai, it had to go on the list.

There are so many great places to travel and I can’t decide where to go. Perhaps you, dear reader, can help. Please! Have you been to Dubai, Croatia, Hong Kong, Greece, or Portugal? If so, take the poll below, and don’t forget to add a comment. Tell me why you love the place you choose, and make sure to share all your favorite things to do and see. I’m dying to know.

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