Macedonia: what’s in a name? A major controversy!

by Sean McLachlan on


The erection of a giant statue of Alexander the Great in the Macedonian capital of Skopje is the latest round in an ongoing controversy with neighboring Greece.

The statue, erected on Tuesday as part of an ambitious urban development plan called Skopje 2014, drew criticism from some Greek politicians and nervous mutterings from European diplomats. They say it’s deliberate provocation because Greece objects to the name Macedonia. Using this name, some say, implies a claim over the Greek province of Macedonia, where Alexander the Great was actually born. Of course neither country existed at the time, the land being divided up into a patchwork of ancient city-states. When history is used as a propaganda tool, historic accuracy goes out the window.

Macedonia, officially the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, broke off from Yugoslavia in 1991 and has been in a row with Greece about its name ever since. This isn’t some minor squabbling. Greece successfully blocked Macedonia’s entry into NATO and is stonewalling the country’s attempts to join the European Union. With Macedonia being one of the poorest countries in Europe, this argument over a name is costing them a lot.

[Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons]

Summer Travel: Athens to Meteora

by Matthew Firestone on

You don’t have to be an accountant to know that Greece’s spreadsheets are in need of some serious financial overhaul. Some would argue that the country is essentially bankrupt, and that nothing short of a European bailout and/or a return to the drachma can save it from total economic ruin.

The silver lining on the ominous storm cloud is that Greece has the potential to be one of the world’s top tourism destinations. The cradle of Western civilization, Greece is an ancient land replete with ruined cities of yore. It also has stunning natural spaces, from rugged highlands and fertile vineyards to sandy beaches and turquoise seas.

The Greek islands already attract their fair share of backpackers, cruise shippers and package holiday travelers alike. But the government’s vision is to spread the profitable fruits of tourism into the Greek hinterlands. A tough order indeed, especially given the lack of funds needed to operate struggling museums, historic sites and national parks.

In the spirit of optimism however, we’re going to use today’s blog to highlight one of our favorite Greek itineraries, namely the northern road from Athens to Meteora.

%Gallery-123052%To many people – myself included – Athens is as much a symbol as it is a destination. More than three millennia ago, Athens gave birth to the modern ideals of democracy. As a center of cultural arts and scientific learning, classical Athens hosted the academies of both Plato and Aristotle. Before its defeat by Sparta in 404 BCE, Athens was the metaphorical shining beacon of knowledge amongst the Peloponnesian city states.

Despite this distinguished pedigree, Athens doesn’t enjoy the same vaulted tourism status as other European capitals. At the very least, it’s nowhere near as romantic as Paris, nor as monumental as Rome. Detractors (Athenians included) take their criticism even further, and lament over the city’s poor sanitation, choking traffic, stray animals and graffiti-covered buildings.

To be fair, Athens was the target of a comprehensive urban renewal campaign in the run-up to the 2004 Olympics. And while the more superficial elements of the clean-up are no longer evident, Athens now boasts an immaculately restored historic center complete with pedestrian shopping streets and a massive open-air archaeological park.

The centerpiece is of course the Acropolis, a flattened hilltop that rises five-hundred feet. Here rests the Parthenon, arguably the most celebrated ruins in the whole of Europe. Constructed in the fifth century BCE, the Parthenon honors Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom and the patroness of the city.

Since the 1970s, the ruins have undergone extensive restoration to replace corroded iron pins with rust-resistant titanium ones. Aesthetic damage caused by the 1687 battle between the resident Ottomans and the invading Venetians is also being targeted. Marble cut from the original quarry will be precisely fitted into existing cracks and holes. As such, don’t be surprised if sections of the Acropolis are covered in scaffolding upon your arrival.

While we could highlight some of capital’s other noteworthy attractions, today’s post is really about journeying into the Greek countryside, specifically northwestern Thessaly. In order to embark on this trip, simply take a taxi to Larissa railway station. From here, there are several daily train departures to the town of Kalampaka. The trip should take you no more than 5 hours at a cost of around twenty euros. Note that while highway buses make the same journey, the train trip is, in our humble opinion, much more scenic.

Kalampaka is a lovely little hamlet nestled at the base of Meteora, a collection of monasteries that were built in the Middle Ages atop towering sandstone pillars. In addition to serving as a pilgrimage site for followers of the Eastern Orthodox church, Meteora also enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status. Fans of James Bond might recognize Meteora as one of the film locations in For Your Eyes Only (1981). Younger readers might also recognize Meteora as the inspiration for Linkin Park’s album Meteora (2002).

Even if you’re previously unfamiliar with Meteora, it doesn’t take long to become enchanted by its magic. First built in the mid-14th century, the monasteries at Meteora were established as religious sanctuaries from the political upheaval. As the Byzantine Empire began to crumble, and threats of Turkish encroachment grew in severity, monastic orders took to the pillars for safety and freedom from persecution.

Accessing such lofty heights was something of an exercise in religious faith. A combination of ladders, ropes and nets were needed to scale the rocks, and it was not until the early 20th century that steps were first carved out of the foundation stone. Even more astounding is the presence of a local legend, which dictates that the ropes were only replaced when the Lord above allowed them to break!

Although more than twenty monasteries were originally constructed, only six remain today – the others were unfortunately destroyed during World War II aerial bombing campaigns. The monasteries are still inhabited by small numbers of monks and nuns, though they largely operate as tourist attractions.

In terms of visiting, most accommodation options are located in Kalampaka alongside restaurants, bars, cafes and other tourist-related services. Organized bus tours dominate the roads, but independent travelers can easily hire a taxi and complete the monastery circuit on their own. Alternatively, you can also eschew motorized transportation all-together, and follow weathered foot paths up into the hillsides.

While there is no denying the allure of the Greek islands, consider adding the Athens-Meteora circuit to your summer travels. Sure, you’re bound to sweat a bit in the summer heat, but it will give some perspective to subsequent idle lazing alongside the shores of the Mediterranean. And finally, just in case you need a bit more inspiration, check out the gallery below.

[All photos and gallery images are the author’s own original work unless otherwise specified.]

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Summer travel: European beach destinations

by Matthew Firestone on

With the summer holiday season just around the corner, it’s never too early to start planning your escape to the beach. For many Americans, this means balmy Floridian shores, the sun-kissed Californian coast, far-flung Hawaiian islands or hedonistic Caribbean resorts.

But if you’re looking for a slice of culture alongside your generous helpings of sea and sand, then consider escaping to one (or several) European beach destinations. A quick jaunt across the pond is all that separates you from basking in glorious Mediterranean climes.

The French Riviera is arguably the most glamorous destination on the continent, but the surprising diversity of European beaches easily caters to travelers of all budget levels. Therein lies the real appeal as you can seek out whatever wave-lapped strip of land that happens to take your fancy.

On that note, we’re proud to kick off our summer travel round-ups by highlighting five European beach destinations that we can’t stop thinking about. Although this list is by no means exhaustive, we’re hoping that it inspires you to dig out the swimsuits from your closet’s nether regions.If your bags are packed with beachwear, flip flops, an absorbent towel and the proper amount of skin-healthy sunscreen, then you’re ready for the following locales:

Barcelona The capital of Catalunya, the second most populous city in Spain and home to the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona isn’t exactly the first place that comes to mind when you think European beaches. But the city is actually hemmed in by a series of attractive beaches, including the mile-long Playa de la Barceloneta.

Although it’s definitely not the most beautiful beach in the bunch, Barceloneta wins in the category of convenience. It’s actually accessible by metro, which provides ample opportunities for urban denizens to tomar el sol or ‘drink the sun.’ Best part: tapas bars line the beach, ensuring that you’re never too far away from a glass of wine, flaky bread, dried meats, ripe cheeses and all manners of cured olives.

Nice While there are certainly glitzier destinations along the French Riviera (we’re looking at you, Saint-Tropez!), Nice is distinguished by its rich cultural heritage – and fantastic seafood. The old town is home to a series of pedestrian-built squares lined with alfresco cafes and bistros. Menus pay homage to the local proverb: ‘Fish are born in the sea, and die in olive oil.’

The beach itself is fronted by the Promenade des Anglais or ‘Promenade of the English,’ which was commissioned by wealthy English vacationers in the 18th century. Today, La Prom (as it is affectionately known by locals) is perfect for a leisurely stroll while staring out into the azure expanses of the Mediterranean. C’est Magnifique.

Balearic Islands This archipelago floating off the southeastern coast of Spain is comprised of fifty major and minor islands including Majorca, Minorca, Formentera, Cabrera and Ibiza. The geography here is dramatic, with rocky coastlines punctuated by sheltered swaths of postcard-perfect sandy beaches.

Ibiza in particular is regarded as Europe’s ultimate summer clubbing destination. The island plays host to some of the world’s top chill-out bars and dance clubs including Cafe del Mar, Space and Pacha. From June to October, this is where you’ll find the top DJs on the electronic music scene, not to mention thronging crowds of party-crazed revelers.

Sardinia Although Sicily is Italy’s most famous island destination, when it comes to beaches you need to head a bit further west out to sea. Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, has a history of human occupation dating back to the Phoenicians. Here you’ll find ruined cities of Punic columns and colonnaded streets in addition to stately medieval settlements and a few modern commercial hubs.

When it comes to beaches, Sardinia is most definitely a heavy-hitter. The coastline is rough and rugged, with immense caverns that have been slowly carved out by the pounding surf. In gentler stretches, powder-white strips of sand nestle protected grottos and tranquil lagoons. Outside of the resort towns, you can cruise ocean highways in the seat of your favorite Italian sports car.

Greek Islands Something of a right of passage amongst the backpacking set, island-hopping in Greece is all about the pursuit of pleasure. From slow-lunches of feta-strewn salads to late-night tumblers of anise-scented ouzo, Greece is quite literally a feast for the senses.

For those in search of bronze glory, there are more than 6000 Aegean, Ionian, Cycladean and Dodecanese islands to choose from. But if we had to narrow it down a bit more, we’d focus on the following: Mykonos for its beach chic, Kos for its seclusion and serenity, Corfu for its elegant vistas, Santorini for its artistic inspiration and Crete for its archaeological underpinnings.

Hvar For a taste of up and coming Europe, look no further than the northeastern shores of the Adriatic Sea. Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is fringed with pine forests, dotted with red-tiled cities and defined by curvaceous bays and floating islets. Prices are on the rise following the introduction of the euro, yet Croatia still remains an affordable corner of a generally expensive continent.

Anywhere in Dalmatia will do you some good, but we’re personally hooked on Hvar. This limestone island is drenched in sunlight, scented with lavender and home to a burgeoning wine industry. Don’t miss Dubovica Beach, which lies next to a stone-hewn village that appears to have leapt out from the pages of a fairy tale.

Did we leave out one of your favorite European beach destinations? Most likely as there are far too many noteworthy spots to list in one blog post. But that’s why we’re inviting you to chime in and let us know what we missed. Be they classic tourist spots or veritable hidden gems, European beaches might just be some of the most enviable destinations for summer travel.

** All images are courtesy of the Wikicommons Media Project **

Schengen and the disappearance of European passport stamps

by Alex Robertson Textor on


Creative new use for border crossing posts at German/Austrian border.

In the late 1980s, an American spending a summer traveling across Europe with a Eurailpass would see his or her passport stamped possibly dozens of times. With a few exceptions, every time a border was crossed, an immigration agent would pop his or her head into a train compartment, look at everyone’s passports, in most cases stamp them, and move on. Every Eastern Bloc country required visas, some of which could be obtained at the border and others of which had to be applied for in advance.

Today, an American can enter the Schengen zone in Helsinki, fly to Oslo and then on to Amsterdam, proceed by train through Belgium, France, Italy, Slovenia, Austria, Hungary, Slovakia and Poland, then by bus to Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, and then by ferry back to Helsinki before catching a flight to Athens and landing in Greece without once needing to submit a passport to a border guard’s scrutiny.

The development of the Schengen agreement across Europe has altered the geopolitical map of the continent in many ways. For tourists, the development of the Schengen zone has simplified travel by drastically reducing the number of times a passport can be checked and stamped as national borders are crossed.

The Schengen Agreement is named after the town of Schengen in Luxembourg. It was here in 1985 that five countries-Luxembourg, Belgium, the Netherlands, West Germany, and France-signed an agreement to essentially create borderless travel between them. A model for this agreement had been created years before by the Benelux countries (Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg), which eliminated border controls back in 1948. The Nordic countries also did away with internal border posts, in 1958.

In 1995, the five original Schengen countries plus Portugal and Spain inaugurated the zone. In 1997, Austria and Italy joined. Greece followed in 2000 and the five Nordic countries joined in 2001. In late 2007, nine more countries joined the Schengen zone; most recently, Switzerland signed up in 2008.


Abandoned border crossing between Slovakia and Hungary.

Today, 22 European countries are part of Schengen. Every European Union country (save the UK, Ireland, Bulgaria, Romania, and Cyprus) belongs. Other members include EU holdouts Iceland, Norway, and Switzerland. The European microstates present a few complications. Monaco’s borders are administered by France, which makes the tiny principality a part of Schengen, while Liechtenstein’s accession, approved by the European Parliament in February, is pending. San Marino and the Vatican are de facto versus official members, while mountainous, landlocked Andorra remains outside of the zone altogether.

There are five EU countries not currently part of the Schengen zone. The UK and Ireland (as well as the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands) operate a Schengen-like agreement called the Common Travel Area. Neither country is obligated to join the zone.

Romania, Bulgaria, and Cyprus, however, are all bound by treaty to eventually join. Romania has fulfilled all the criteria for joining Schengen and Bulgaria is close to fulfillment as well. These two countries will accede together, likely later this year. Cyprus presents a more complicated situation given the division of the island between the Republic of Cyprus in the south and the largely unrecognized Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in the north.

With the coming accession of the Western Balkans to the European Union, the Schengen zone will almost definitely continue to grow. Might it one day cover the entire landmass of Europe? Check back in two decades.

[Images: top image Flickr | Mike Knell; middle image Flickr | jczart]

Five lesser-known European islands

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Last June, we published a list of four European islands that float under the radar: Porquerolles, France; Fasta Åland, Finland; San Domino, Italy; and Vlieland, Netherlands.

As far as we’re concerned, it’s not too early to start making summer travel plans to get away from the crowds. Here are five more beautiful yet lesser-known European islands that don’t get a ton of press. They’re scattered across the continent, from England to the Azores and from Greece to the Baltic Sea.

1. St. Agnes, Isles of Scilly, England. St. Agnes, one of the Isles of Scilly, is the southernmost inhabited bit of England. Temperatures are moderate and pleasant year-round. The beaches and shoreline are more reminiscent of the Caribbean than of the popular imagination of England. You can spend your time walking around the island, visiting the lighthouse, and relaxing over a pint at the Turk’s Head, England’s southernmost pub. St. Agnes can be reached by ferry from the main island of St. Mary’s.

2. Corvo, Azores, Portugal. The smallest and northernmost of the remote Azores, Corvo is an isolated place. The island boasts a stunning verdant caldera with two crater lakes. It is also well-known as a birdwatching spot. Food lovers should enjoy Corvo’s local handmade cheese, distinctive corn bread, and larded tarts made with rock grass. Corvo can be reached by air on SATA Air Açores.

3. Kasos, Greece. Situated between Crete and Karpathos, Kasos is a sparsely populated dot on the map at the southern end of the Dodecanese Islands. Greece being Greece, the island has several remarkable beaches on offer, though these are not the whole story. Its five villages are home to scores of delightful churches. The island also maintains a busy festival schedule throughout the year. The festival of St. Marina, held on July 17, is the most important summer season festival event. Ferries connect visitors to Kasos from Crete and Piraeus, and Olympic Air links the island to the outside world by air.

4. Bornholm, Denmark. The Danish Baltic Sea island of Bornholm lies far east of the rest of Denmark. The bucolic island is packed with attractions. Among these is Hammershus, the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe, which dates back to the 12th Century. Bornholm is also a hub for arts and crafts, and hosts an annual Culture Week festival in September. Bornholm can be reached by ferry from Køge (Denmark), Ystad (Sweden), Kolobrzeg (Poland), and Sassnitz (Germany). There are also air links from Copenhagen on Cimber Sterling as well as sesonal connections to Billund (Cimber Sterling) and Oslo (Widerøe).

5. Hiiumaa, Estonia. This quiet western Estonian island is full of picturesque rural corners: old churches, lighthouses, little forested islets, and beaches for swimming and sunning. Hiking is a big draw here, and there are also opportunities for horseback riding and kayaking. Prices are very reasonable here, as Estonia remains an affordable destination. For budget-friendly accommodation on Hiiumaa, consider booking a room at the delightful Allike, where double rooms begin at €50. Hiiumaa can be reached by air from Tallinn with Avies and by ferry from the mainland and the neighboring island of Saaremaa.

[Image of St. Agnes: Flickr | Carlton Browne]