The top 9 reasons to drop everything and visit Guatemala right now

If you thought you could live a regret-free life without visiting Guatemala, think again. This diminutive Central American country, smaller than the state of Louisiana, packs in enough diversity to entertain you for months. And its low, low prices mean you don’t need to visit your neighborhood payday lender to afford to stay a while.

From active volcanoes to immaculate colonial cities to quite possibly the world’s most beautiful lake, Guatemala boasts plenty of reasons for you to bid farewell to your loved ones, return those outstanding library books, and spend a couple months in Central America. Here are the top nine:

9. The people. When a tourism slogan proclaims that “The best part are our people!” I roll my eyes and figure it must be a colorless place with nothing to offer. Not so with Guatemala. Within a period of three days, I had two different people sit down next to me in Xela’s Parque Centroamerica and strike up a lengthy conversation. One of them invited me to hang out with him and his friends that night at a local watering hole. The other only started talking to me because he thought I was gay. But still, that counts!

8. Volcan Pacaya. Bright red lava flows are the big attraction on Volcan Pacaya, located about an hour from Antigua. I’ve already sung the praises of Pacaya on Gadling before, but it bears repeating: You can put your hand literally inches away from a river of glowing molten lava. Great for family-and-friend-impressing.

7. Antigua. Is Antigua overrun with tourists and language students? Yes. Is it one of the more expensive places in Guatemala? It is indeed, although that’s not saying much. Will you earn any Traveler’s Cred Points for visiting this well-trodden locale? You will not. But is it still worth visiting? Damn right it is.

Situated between three volcanos, Antigua’s surroundings are as picturesque as its well-preserved colonial architecture. With cobblestone streets, arches, and a tree-filled central plaza, Antigua is the embodiment of the word “charming.” Don’t miss the Catedral de Santiago on the east side of the town square; its white facade is illuminated beautifully in the evening.

6. Volcan Santiaguito. The guidebooks give Santiaguito only a brief mention, if they discuss it at all, but this might have been my favorite place in all of Guatemala. Also my least favorite. The hike to this highly-active volcano, which erupts about every 45 minutes, is easily the hardest thing I’ve done in my life.

It’s ten hours, uphill, both ways, and when I finally arrived back at my hostel after this nightmarish hike, my leg and arm muscles were spasming uncontrollably and I couldn’t stop shivering. It took me about a week to recover fully.

On the other hand, wow:

Be sure to watch the entire video. Easily one of the top five experiences of my life (which I wrote about elsewhere here).

5. Tikal. Devoting any less than a couple days to the massive Mayan ruins at Tikal would be an injustice of O.J. proportions. Set among lush tropical rainforest, the views surrounding Tikal are just as impressive as the ruins themselves. Don’t miss climbing the ridiculously steep steps of Temple I and Temple V (pictured right).

Spend the night at the nearby Jaguar Inn to explore the ruins just after dawn, a time when the howler monkeys outnumber the tourists many times over.

4. Quetzaltenango (“Xela”). Sure, its Beauty-And-Charm Quotient (BACQ) can’t match Antigua’s, but Xela (pronounced “Shay-la”) more than makes up for this with its lower prices, its less tourist-jaded inhabitants, and its (as much as I hate this word) authenticity. Where Antigua is absolutely overcome with tourists, Xela is home to fewer language students and visitors overall, though it still offers all the services and high quality restaurants tourists expect. Its Parque Centroamerica is one of the country’s largest town squares, and the plaza is surrounded by the worthwhile, if quirky, Museum of Natural History.

About ten blocks north of the park is the Mercado La Democracia, a buzzing labyrinthine agglomeration of vendors selling fruit, vegetables, and fake Adidas. Don’t miss it!

3. Chichicastenango Market. A trip to Guatemala would not be complete without spending a Thursday or Sunday in the town of Chichicastenango (“Chichi”) and checking out its magnificent market. Whether it’s fruit and vegetables, tapestries, carvings, or an imitation Sony Walkman circa 1985, you’ll find just about everything you’re looking for here.

Don’t miss the Church of St. Thomas located at the southeast corner of the central plaza, where worshippers combine ancient Mayan rituals with a hint of Catholicism for some truly unique religious displays.

2. Lago de Atitlan. If there’s a more gorgeous setting for a lake in this world, I haven’t seen it. Surrounded by three volcanoes– San Pedro, Toliman, and Atitlan– as well as emerald green hills, cornfields, and traditional Mayan towns, Lago de Atitlan might be the best spot in Guatemala to spend a week or two.

And there’s plenty to do as well. Hikes up nearby Volcan San Pedro are a challenging day’s walk but provide absolutely breathtaking views of the lake and surrounding towns below. Kayaks and canoes are cheap to rent in just about every town on the lake, and the water is clean enough for a swim. The town of Panajachel, nicknamed “Gringotenango” for obvious reasons, has been one of Guatemala’s biggest tourist hangouts for decades. Take in the wonderful backpacker culture at the town of San Pedro or check out the hippie hang-out of San Marcos, where you’ll have plenty of opportunities to talk about your “energy” and get cheap massages.

1. Semuc Champey. Probably the most beautiful place on Earth you’ve never heard of, Semuc Champey is home to dozens of cascading turquoise and emerald lagoons. And there’s as much to do as there is to look at, like cave swimming, bridge jumps, and cliff diving. “A trip to Semuc will give you that sense of childlike wonder which Disneyland always promised,” says Guatemala veteran Violet Marcel. “Turns out, nature can do it better.”

For more on Guatemala, check out Gadling’s entire archive here. Any questions, comments, places I’ve overlooked? Leave them in the comments.

Lava Leering: Getting up close and personal with Volcan Pacaya in Guatemala

One of the few places in the world where you can stand just inches away from blisteringly hot lava, Guatemala’s Volcan Pacaya is the country’s most popular and most accessible volcano. Just a ninety-minute drive from the tourist mecca of Antigua, Pacaya offers visitors the chance to roast marshmallows over glowing orange lava, witness the flowing of a long “river of lava” which was formed back in 2006, and even plunge a stick into lava and watch it instantly catch fire.

Is it touristy? Oh, yeah. I guarantee you will not be alone on this hike– almost every travel agency in Antigua runs daily tours to the volcano for under ten dollars. But despite the crowds of tourists that ascend it every morning and night, Pacaya is one of Guatemala’s absolute must-see’s, and not only for the “I stood next to hot lava” stories you’ll be telling when you get home.
The two-hour ascent of Pacaya does not actually go to the 8,400-ft. summit, which is both incredibly steep and volcanically very active, but to a lower, safer area where most of the lava is visible. Here, you’ll find people roasting marshmallows, rocking back and forth to make sure their shoes don’t melt, and just generally marveling at the steaming pools of liquid rock (see bottom photo).
Most tours from Antigua leave at 6 am or 2 pm. The later hike, although it usually carries a greater chance of rain, often affords brilliant sunset views like this one.

If you go…

  • Be sure to wear close-toed shoes, not flip-flops, as the volcanic rock on Pacaya can be sharp and very hot. Long pants are also recommended if you want to avoid singed leg hair.
  • Bring rain gear and a flashlight if you’re visiting in the afternoon.
  • Don’t forget a liter or two of water as well as some snacks for the hike.
  • Purchase a stick for about fifty cents from one of the young boys who will approach you as you begin your hike. Even if you don’t need a stick for walking, it’s nice to be able to drop it into the lava and watch it catch fire.
  • Buy your ticket in one of the many travel agencies in Antigua; it shouldn’t cost more than $7. Tickets can also be purchased in Guatemala City.

Amazing Destinations That Can’t Be Reached By Car

Modern transportation has made it extremely easy for travelers to get to just about any place in the world. Each day there are international flights that can take us to the four corners of the globe and modern roads and trains will deliver us to the best sights and monuments to be found at our destination, before whisking us back to a comfy hotel, complete with hot and cold running water, room service and a big comfy bed.

But not all of the world’s great places are accessible by vehicle. There are still some amazing destinations that fall way off the beaten path, that will force us to work a little harder to take in their splendor. The Times Online has put together a collection of these places, which they’ve dubbed “Holidays you can’t reach by car“, with a variety of unique locations that you’ll have to trek, paddle, or both if you plan to ever see them in person.

One of the more intriguing places to make their list is the Source of the Ganges River in India. The famous river which plays such an indelible part of Indian culture gets its humbles start at the foot of the Gangotri Glacier, located in the Himalaya at 12,600 feet in the Garhwal region. Anyone wanting to make the journey should be prepared for a ten day trek that will take them high into the mountains, past ancient caves where Hindu practitioners still meditate in their search for enlightenment.
The Omo River in Ethiopia is yet another interesting destination to appear on this list. The 470 mile long stretch of water drops more than 6000 feet over its length before emptying into Lake Turkana, while passing through rocky gorges and over beautiful water falls, offering up great whitewater in the process. The trip can only be made by raft or kayak, and along the way travelers will encounter crocodiles, hippos, and remote villages that still remain mostly untouched by the outside world.

There are plenty more similar treks, climbs and other adventures on the list as well, offering up great destinations that don’t just fall off the beaten path, they leave that path far behind. But for the adventure traveler, there is plenty to like here, with some ideas for your next trip that you may not even have considered before.

The Very Best Foreign National Parks

The Coalition of National Park Services Retirees (yeah, I didn’t know they existed either) put out a press release yesterday listing the organizations favorite national parks from around the globe. The list was compiled by the more than 700 members of the CNPSR, who voted on their favorite places to visit while traveling abroad. Each of those members is a former employee of the U.S. National Park Service, and the members have an average of nearly 30 years of experience each, giving them a broad understanding of what makes a great park. Amongst their numbers are former rangers, park directors and deputy directors, regional directors and more.

The ten top parks according to the CNPSR is as follows:

1. TONGARIRO N. P., New Zealand
2. KAKADU N. P., Northern Territory, Australia
3. SNOWDONIA N. P., Wales, Great Britain
4. KRUGER N. P., South Africa
5. TIKAL N. P., Guatemala
6. IGUAZU N. P., Argentina
7. SAGARMANTHA N. P., Nepal
8. MADAIN SALEY NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, Saudi Arabia
9. PLITVICE LAKES N.P., Croatia
10. HORTOBAGY N.P., Hungary
The actual story goes into more detail as to which each of the parks was selected, and what makes them stand out in the crowd. For instance, Tongarirro in New Zealand is a World Heritage Site with three volcanos, one of which is active. The park also lets visitors get up close to the Maori culture, with many members of the tribe still living within the park itself. By contrast, Kruger National Park in South Africa, is listed as one of the best places on the planet to view wildlife, with hundreds of different species on display.

Overall, a great list, and some good suggestions on places you can visit while traveling abroad. It’s nice to see some of the lesser known parks make the list, like Plitvice Lakes in Croatia. These kinds of lists sure don’t help the personal life list however, as every time they are released, I add two or three new things to my agenda.

12 Amazing Crater Lakes

Environmental Graffiti, the same website that brought us those amazing views from the tops of the Seven Summits last week, returns with even more great images. The subject of their latest story is the 12 Most Incredible Crater Lakes on Earth. These amazing natural wonders are created not from the impact of a meteorite, but instead they are formed when the collapsed cone of a volcano fills up with water over time.

Some of the amazing places that make the list include Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, which was formed more than 84,000 years ago. The lake remains largely unexplored even now, and stretches to more than 340 meters (1115 feet) in depth. Its shores are lined with mountains, and there is still a great deal of volcanic activity in the area that was once home to the Mayan civilization.

Half-way round the globe from Lake Atitlan in the heart of Turkey, is another unique crater lake that sits atop a dormant volcano called Nemrut. The caldera of this mountain contains not one, but two very distinct lakes, one a cold body of water reaching 155 meters (508 feet) in depth, while a very short distance away is another lake that reaches more than 100 meters (328 feet) into the ground. That second lake has a constant temperature of near 140º Faherenheit, making for quite a contrast to it’s companion.

The other crater lakes on the list span the globe from Alaska to Australia and a number of points inbetween. They each are unique and wonderful, offering visitors some of the most amazing scenery on the planet.