Four views of Shake Shack burgers in New York City

by Tom Johansmeyer on

The line always seems to be long in Madison Square Park. Shake Shack, known for its burgers as well, always draws a crowd, and it isn’t unusual to spend an hour or more waiting to sink your teeth into its greasy delights. I’ve done it, and I know I’m not alone. Well, the stand’s popularity has led to expansion, and there are now four locations across Manhattan, with a fifth in Queens at Citi Field. Since those that follow never compare to the original, I was curious as to how they all compare. Could the concept withstand such rapid growth?

I set out with the noblest of intentions. Fellow travel blogger and friend Laurie DePrete (who took some of the photos) and I planned to hit the four Manhattan Shake Shacks on one Saturday afternoon. Scott Carmichael reached out to me over Twitter just wish me luck and let me know I was nuts (thanks, Scott). With my heroic appetite, I planned to down a double cheeseburger and fries at each location: Upper West Side (Columbus Ave and W. 77th Street), Upper East Side (E. 86th Street between Lexington Ave and Third Ave), Madison Square Park (Madison Ave and E. 23rd Street) and Midtown (Eighth Ave and W. 44th Street) – in that order.

My plan was to start on the Upper West Side, where I live, cut across Central Park to the Upper East Side, shoot down to Madison Square Park and then cut up and over to Midtown. Fatigue and the prospect of getting full never entered my mind. Neither ever does.

Below, you’ll find the results of my excursion, a look at the four Shake Shacks in Manhattan:

Eating all this @shakeshack food will be tough. 4 in all! RT @ScenebyLaurie: Stop #2 on the #NYC @shakeshack crawl http://4sq.com/covAmRless than a minute ago via ÜberTwitterTom Johansmeyer
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1. Upper West Side

This was the second Shake Shack to pop up, and I was excited to have an option close to home. The line frequently stretches around the corner onto W. 77th Street, though it’s rarely as intimidating as the original at Madison Square Park. On the Saturday I undertook this endeavor, the line was short, and I was able to order in about 10 minutes. Seating was tight, as expected, by Laurie and I were able to grab a spot on the counter, standing but with some space.

Needless to say, I enjoyed the cheeseburger, a double, but it struck me that I’d have to change course to survive the day. Though the burgers are a bit small (at all locations), they are filling. On the Upper West Side, expect to find the fare a little less greasy but still enjoyable. The taste was a bit flat. You’ll still be happy as you chomp away, but there better Shake Shack options in the city.

Where the Upper West Side restaurant stands out is in seating. There is plenty of it indoors, and don’t forget to look downstairs if you find the street level to be crowded. Also, there’s a bathroom on the premises, which is always helpful when you eat burgers and gulp lemonade.

After this first stop, we agreed to walk to the next location. To make it through four, it seemed like a good idea to move around a bit in between to keep the blood flowing … and the extra pounds at bay.

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2. Upper East Side

Unlike the first stop, I wasn’t hungry when I got to this one – but I wasn’t not hungry. I switched to a single cheeseburger and fries, cognizant of the road ahead. From across E. 86th Street, I saw that the line was out the door, but my concerns receded as I got closer. The stretch up the stairs from the cash registers to the front door isn’t long, so I figured the line would move quickly (it did). To help the process along, there are menus hanging outside, and a Shake Shack staffer walks by periodically to hand them out.

Seating inside is a bit scarce, but there’s plenty outside, perfect on a day like the one we used to tackle the four Shake Shacks. And, like the Upper West Side, there are bathrooms on the premises. The décor is a bit sleeker on the Upper East Side than in the other locations, and the staff was swift: the lines moved quickly because they moved quickly, too.

I was impressed by the burgers on the Upper East Side. They were soft and moist – nice and greasy, which is how a burger from the Shack should be. Hold yours with the wrapper to keep your shirt from getting drenched (learn from mistake I’ve made a number of times on visits to Shake Shack). As for taste, this spot’s burger was bursting. I devoured it shamelessly.

When I tried to stand from the bench in the outdoor dining area, I came to the realization that I didn’t want to. I was three burgers and two orders of fries into the adventure, and I was full … with two more locations to go. I was satisfied – and I definitely wasn’t hungry any longer. I was also tired. I turned to Laurie and saw a look implying the same feeling, but we decided to soldier on, slogging over to the subway for a ride down to Madison Square Park.

This project was becoming work.

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3. Madison Square Park

The original was our third stop simply for logistical reasons. Given the starting point and the way the subways work, it made sense to take this one on third. Also, we’ve both eaten there countless times, so we had a reasonable benchmark against which to compare the Upper East Side and Upper West Side locations.

As we walked through the park, a familiar sight emerged: a long line. We braced ourselves for a wait of at least half an hour before realizing that we needed it. I’d be able to rest my stomach for a while, try earnestly to build up an appetite again and prepare myself for the home stretch. I sat on the ground for a moment to gather my courage.

You’ll find free water at every Shake Shack location, and at this point we needed it. I headed over to pick up a few cups from the urn (the other three have running water) and rehydrated, something I’d been neglecting. Slowly, we advanced to the counter, where I ordered another single and fries. I wasn’t eating to alleviate hunger at this point, I was just looking for the taste.

The original remains the best. Grease dripped from the burger (though not as much as on the Upper East Side), and the familiar flavor erupted in my mouth. The first bite was incredible – everything you’d expect a burger from the Shack to be. It was soft, warm and thoroughly enjoyable. Then, I looked down at my tray and saw that I still had the rest of the burger in front of me. I was only able to make it through half – likewise for my fries – before deciding I had enough information and giving up.

While Madison Square Park wins on taste, the surroundings can be a challenge. There is lots of seating, but it’s all outdoor. Given that the crowds tend to be largest here, they fill up quickly. During the lunch rush, with people spilling out of the nearby office buildings, you may have trouble finding a chair anywhere. Protect your food from the occasional bird (I speak from experience), and bring change for the bathroom (a freestanding public one is your only option, and it’ll set you back a quarter).

After giving up before finishing, groaning and shaking our heads, we decided to keep going. Again figuring it would be a good idea to keep the blood flowing, my burger buddy and I started the trek back uptown, dreading the final stop. It was getting close to 10 PM, leaving us just enough time to get to the Midtown location – our final stop on the Shake Shack tour. My feet felt heavier with each step. My stomach hinted that a mutiny was on the horizon. After swapping knowing glances, Laurie and I decided to leave the Eighth Ave location for another day.

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4. Eighth Ave

We waited a little over a week before resuming the tour, a natural reaction to overloading your body with some of the finest burgers New York City has to offer. Situated on Eighth Ave, I expected this restaurant to have frightening wait and no available seating. It’s close to Times Square and Port Authority, which led me to believe there would be endless tourist traffic. To my surprise, however, the line lasted only about 15 minutes. As on the Upper East Side, Shake Shackers armed with menus came out periodically to help people make their decisions before getting up to the counter to order.

The Midtown Shake Shack offered a tasty burger (I found Madison Square Park and the Upper East Side to be better) that came fairly quickly. It wasn’t terribly greasy but was enjoyable nonetheless. Seating was tough, as people seemed to take a bit more time with their meals while the kitchen was able to turn over orders quickly.

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Like the other indoor locations, the Midtown spot had bathrooms for customers. To use them, though, you needed to enter a code on the door. Unlike most places, which use a token or a key from the counter, Shake Shack was savvy enough to put the code on every receipt, minimizing the time it takes to get where you need to go. The Eighth Ave restaurant also had a more powerful faucet for water, which led to shorter lines for those fighting thirst. It’s clear that the company learned a few lessons before opening its newest space.

Getting the last of the #manhattan @shakeshack stops in!!! (@ Shake Shack w/ @scenebylaurie) http://4sq.com/dhBg7Bless than a minute ago via foursquareTom Johansmeyer
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And that was it.

Toiling through four Shake Shacks, even if the last was left for a later date, was far more challenging than I expected, and I learned just how much my stomach can hold. If you’re headed to Manhattan, it’s worth visiting one Shake Shack – but only one. Don’t try to cram them all into a demented burger tour. You really are only hurting yourself if you do.

Water park shut down because of burgers, fries, mozzarella

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Is it a pool or an aquatic buffet?

Vandals made a mess of the Waterworks Waterpark in Prince William County, Virginia, and law enforcement is ready to slap the cuffs on someone. Hamburger patties, fries and pretzels were tossed into the pool, but the nastiest bit was smearing mozzarella cheese on the water slide. Of course, you wouldn’t want to put any of this near your lips.

The culinary disaster required that the park be shut down until the pool can be drained, sanitized and refilled – sans grub. The deed was done sometime between 10 PM Friday and 8 AM Saturday. Hoping to catch the culprits soon, a reward has been offered for information leading to an arrest.

[photo by Tine72 via Flickr]

Pyongyang gets a “taste” of capitalism

by Tom Johansmeyer on

North Korea, the reclusive Communist state, is always reluctant to try something new. The government controls information tightly, as anyone who has read updates from the Korea Central News Agency can see. But, occasionally, a fissure forms in the barriers that separate the most remote country on Earth from the rest of the world. And now, the people who are slowly developing a taste for pizza and beer are taking a look at burgers and fries.

Pyongyang is now home to North Korea’s first fast food restaurant, where the locals can scarf down the same grub that’s made so many Americans overweight … though rampant poverty is unlikely to allow the nation supersize overnight. Named Samtaesong, the place pairs kimchi with burgers, fries and waffles. Beer, a local fave, is available on tap. There are plans to add croissants and hot dogs to the menu – a natural combo – and to open up other locations in the country’s capital.

The food isn’t cheap, according to the North Korean media outlet Choson Sinbo (which is based in Tokyo. A hamburger will set you back $1.70, which is more than half what the average North Korean earns in a day. Fortunately, Pyongyang is home to the country’s wealthiest citizens (so much for the Communist objective of financial equality), so they can afford to eat fast food.

There are other signs of capitalism encroaching on Kim Jong Il’s turf. He was reported to have visited a convenience store recently, though accounts stop just short of whether Apu invited him to “come again!” The Dear Leader did pick up five bottles of a Korean liquor known as “makgeolli” and other drinks.

Fast food, convenience stores … this is starting to prove something I’ve believed for quite a while. Future wars will not be won with armored divisions and air strikes. Instead, ambition, taste and style – the nuts and bolts of capitalism – will yield victory and create foundations for freedom around the world. While I hate to give Puff Daddy P. Diddy Diddy Sean John Combs his due, it really is “all about the Bejamins.”

A successful free enterprise, of course, requires that customers be willing to come back to more. Well, Samtaesong is already on the right track, having had its first satisfied customer, George Bottomley. But, that’s not such a big deal – his only reference point is the food back in Britain.

The Parker Meridien NYC knows how to serve a cheeseburger

by Tom Johansmeyer on

I know I’ve written a lot about hotdogs, but I’m also a big fan of burgers. I guess my true affinity is for anything that’s bad for you. Nothing beats a great dog, but I have room for variety and sometimes crave an amazing burger. In Manhattan, you should look no further than the Parker Meridien on W. 56th St. (or W. 57th St., you can enter from either side).

You’re probably thinking about a $20 hamburger (more with cheese), because nothing’s cheap at a Parker Meridien. Well, for this burger, you’ll have to pass Norma’s (which is a great brunch spot, but far from cheap) and look for the neon cheeseburger on the wall. Welcome to the Burger Joint! It’s hidden in a hallway next to the concierge desk, and if you ask for directions, the staff will direct you easily. They know what you’re looking for.

During most peak dining hours, though, the location will be obvious. Look for the incredibly long line and be prepared to wait.

When you finally do reach the Burger Joint, you’ll notice a substantial shift in the décor. Scrawled between the many posters on the walls are light attempts at graffiti (but lots of them). The signs are handwritten in magic marker. The upscale uniforms visible in the rest of the hotel are eschewed for attire that’s considerably more laid back. The restaurant’s name says it all. It’s a burger joint, nothing more. But, it excels at its one mission – putting an amazing hamburger between your teeth.

Read the menu before you get to the cash register, or you’ll probably be sent to the back of the line. Demand for the product will force you to wait for a while, so there’s no reason to make it worse by screwing up at the moment of truth. The sign provides strict (but easy to follow) instructions on how to order. Speak loudly and confidently.

The restaurant itself is usually crowded. It’s tough to get a seat, and there’s always an asshole or two who lingers after finishing. So, you’ll be crammed shoulder-to-shoulder while waiting for your grub to be cooked, bagged and handed to you. Deal with it; there’s no alternative. From time to time, one of the cooks will step from behind the counter and scream at loiterers to get the hell out. It’s not done delicately … and it shouldn’t be.

If the dining area is full, or you just don’t want to mess with the crowds, there’s a great inter-block alley between W. 54th St. and W. 55th St., and it has tables and benches. This is a great dining spot when the weather is favorable. Also, you’re only a short walk from Central Park.

So, what about the food? You can’t go wrong with the burgers and fries, which comprise the entirety of the menu. The burgers are tasty, but do benefit from a bit of ketchup. I’d be happier if they were larger. The fries are thin-cut and the best (of this style) in the city. I haven’t tried the shakes (not really my thing), but I can tell from how many have been ordered that they must be good.

The total cost for all this isn’t absurd. For three cheeseburgers, two generously-sized orders of fries and a drink, I dropped $31.50. You’re going to have a bitch of a time finding a deal like this anywhere else in the city, I assure you.

One week in Chicago: Food

by Mike Barish on

Last week I introduced you to my mini-guide to Chicago. When I finalized my plans to spend a week there, I followed the advice of Frugal Travel Matt Gross and let all my Twitter followers and Facebook friends know that I was accepting any and all recommendations on things to do and places to go. Of course, I was inundated with an incredible amount of useful advice, almost all of which included ideas for where I should eat. That’s why today I’m going to focus solely on food. I hope you’re hungry, because things are about to get gluttonous.

Chicago doesn’t have just one iconic food; It has several. The Chicago dog, deep dish pizza and Italian beef sandwiches are all quintessentially Chicago. As the recommendations came pouring in from my friends, I knew I’d have to be ambitious in my eating when I arrived in Chicago. None of the aforementioned dishes are light. None are healthy. But they’re all pretty amazingly delicious (except for deep dish pizza, but we’ll get to that later).

How much can one man eat over seven days in Chicago? How memorable can it really be? Let’s just say I experienced the best burger of my life and the joy that is a sandwich with ham and peanut butter.

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Hot Doug’s – Hot Doug’s was recommended to me by countless people. It was visited by Anthony Bourdain for an episode of No Reservations. It’s not a secret, but it is fantastic. This is not your average hot dog joint. Sure, you can get a Chicago dog here. But you can also get a foie gras dog or have your french fries cooked up in duck fat. It’s decadent, for sure, but it’s also insanely delicious. I opted for the venison sausage with cheddar and bacon sausage with caramelized onions and brie.

Wiener’s Circle – A Chicago institution, Wiener’s Circle is known for its customer service. Well, more like customer berating. As day turns to night and more and more customers start arriving in a state of inebriation, the employees behind the counter begin to yell, curse and bark at customers. And the customers hurl the insults right back. Showtime and NPR’s This American Life even documented the phenomenon. I went for a sober lunch, so I was politely given an outstanding Chicago dog.

Al’s #1 Italian Beef – Yes, it’s a chain. Yes, it doesn’t look all that quaint or authentic. But Al’s #1 Italian Beef is the place to go for this greasy, meaty sandwich. Be sure to get it with both sweet peppers and giardiniera. Make sure you have plenty of napkins handy.

Kuma’s Corner – I’m a hamburger snob. You can’t just throw any meat on a bun and expect me to say that you have a good burger. Well, I am without a doubt prepared to say that I had the best hamburger of my life at Kuma’s Corner. First things first, Kuma’s Corner is not T.G.I. Friday’s. If you don’t like listening to blasting rock music while you eat, don’t go. If you don’t like a place with bourbon on tap at the bar, don’t go. If you don’t like a place that names their burgers after heavy metal bands, don’t go. That said, if you enjoy all of these things and are amused by a hamburger called the Goblin Cock (a hamburger with a full Chicago dog on top), then get to Kuma’s Corner post-haste. I opted for their signature Kuma Burger, which came with bacon, cheddar and a fried egg (my favorite burger accoutrement). I ordered it medium rare and it came to me red on the inside and warmed through. In other words, perfect. Juicy, flavorful and simply the best burger I have ever eaten.

Pizzeria Due – While the original Pizzeria Uno and Pizzeria Due are officially part of the Pizzeria Uno chain, the two flagship locations are allowed to keep their unique menus and are considered authentic restaurants as opposed to the other franchise location. But, you see, deep dish pizza ain’t pizza. Sorry, but it’s the truth. Sure, it’s sauce, bread and cheese. But it’s more of a casserole than a pizza. The flavor ratios are off. The sauce is on top. That’s just wrong. Frankly, it’s an abomination. My friend told me to consider it a “lasagna with a biscuit crust.” Well, that seems like a slippery slope toward those Dominos Pasta Bread Bowls. That’s not a good thing.

Perry’s Deli – “Because it’s there.” That was George Mallory’s response to a reporter who asked him why he wanted to climb the world’s tallest mountain. And it was my response when my friend asked me why I was going to Perry’s Deli to try the Peter Panski – a sandwich with ham, bacon, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and…peanut butter. Before you scoff, gag and/or stop reading, hear me out. This crazy combination actually works! The sweetness of the peanut butter compliments the ham. The smooth and creamy texture plays nicely with with the chewiness of the thick-cut bacon. After a few bites, I found myself no longer eating the Peter Panski for the novelty of it and was just enjoying my lunch. Afterwards, however, I did need a nap.

Sun Wah Bar-B-Que – If you’re looking for a break from typical Chicago cuisine, head over to Sun Wah for some Peking duck and other succulent Chinese dishes. Go with a group so that you can share, though. While the Peking duck buns were a treat, my friends and I are still talking about just how big our oysters were. Served with garlic and ginger, the oysters were roughly the size of a bread plate. While bigger does not always mean better when it comes to food, these oysters were flavorful, delicate and had a liquor that was beyond delicious. Order a Tsingtao or three to cut through that duck fat and spin the lazy Susan until there’s nothing left to eat.

< a href="http://www.lulacafe.com/" target="_blank">Lula Cafe – Not every meal I enjoyed was over-indulgent and ridiculous. Lula Cafe provided me with a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a fresh, seasonal and expertly crafted meal. Their Monday “Farm Dinner” features seasonal ingredients from local farms and is worth every penny. The menu is simple, but when the ingredients are this fresh and the kitchen is staffed by chefs who are respectful of their menu and their customers, simple is better. If the weather is cooperating, sit outside, order a beer and enjoy a quality meal with no pretense.

As you can imagine, I gained a few pounds in Chicago. But it was totally worth it! How did I work off all the new found weight? Check back tomorrow when I review some of my favorite Chicago activities.

Check out my Chicago food gallery here.

Special thanks to Jenny Lee, Joe Hobaica, Mike Lee, Gadling’s own Jeremy Kressmann and everyone else for their food suggestions.