I’ve lived in Spain part time for eight years now and I’ve been under the impression that Madrid is the highest European capital at 667 meters (2,188 feet) above sea level. You see the “highest capital in Europe” claim everywhere, including city tours, travel websites and even the second edition of “City Guide Madrid” by Blue Guides.
A friend who just came back from hiking in Andorra, however, told me that’s not true. Andorra’s capital, Andorra la Vella, stands at 1,023 meters (3,356 feet) and takes the prize for highest European capital. While its population is only a bit over 22,000 and the city governs one of the smallest countries in Europe, size doesn’t matter in this contest.
Andorra la Vella is nestled in the Pyrenees Mountains between Spain and France. My friend tells me there are numerous day hikes from town that take you into spectacular valleys and peaks past alpine streams and waterfalls. The winter ski season is justly famous. The city is pretty cheap too. Sounds like I’ll have to do an Andorran series sometime soon.
Defenders of Madrid can nitpick, though. Andorra is a co-principality and you could make the case that it isn’t a fully independent country. The President of France and the Bishop of Urgell in Spain act as co-princes. Like other European monarchs, however, they don’t have much power in the day-to-day running of the country. Andorra is a parliamentary democracy with an elected Prime Minister. Andorra has all the other trappings of nationhood as well, such as a flag, diplomats and membership to important international bodies such as the EU and UN. So it looks to me that the common statement that Madrid is the highest capital in Europe is wrong.
It just goes to show that you can’t believe everything you hear and read.
I’ve spent the better part of the last two decades getting lost all around the world. I wish I could boast that my extensive travels have left me with an impeccable sense of direction that allows me to find even the most poorly marked sites, but that would be a lie. The truth is that I spend an awful lot of time wondering where the hell I am.
Yesterday, I set off to visit an archeological site in Patmos, a stunning Greek island in the eastern Aegean, and wound up with nasty little cuts all over my legs and the mistaken impression that a small pile of rocks was Patmos’s Ancient Acropolis.
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I had noticed a sign leading off the main road leading out of Patmos’s main port, Skala, which read “Castelli-Ancient Acropolis,” and had resolved to find it. My wife mentioned that it was billed as a good hike in the Lonely Planet Guide to the Greek Isles, so I set off early on a sunny day to try to find the site.
I walked up the gravel road in the direction the sign pointed for 20 minutes, occasionally looking back to savor the dramatic view of Skala’s harbor and the surrounding beauty. The path came to an end and I doubled back to ask a farmer where the site was. He spoke no English but got the point when I typed the word “archaeology” in a Greek dictionary app I have on my iPod.”Ah, Castelli!” he said, pointing vaguely towards the highest peak in the area.
I typed the word “path” into the app, and the farmer grimaced and said, “problem.”
I soon realized what he was talking about as I retraced my steps and couldn’t see a path to get to the top of the hill he was talking about. The land was divided by stone fences, and after some exploration I found gaps in the first few on my way toward what I thought was the site. But after a few minutes and several missteps onto prickly bushes, I had to hurdle a stone fence and then my hike slowly evolved into a rock climbing exercise as I made my way to the top of the hill.
As I neared the summit, I wondered how it could be possible that municipal authorities would post a sign leading to an archaeological site that required scaling fences and climbing rocks, but the farmer had pointed to this hill and it made sense that the site would be on the highest plateau in the area, so I continued on until I reached the top.
At the summit, I found nothing more than a small pile of neatly stacked rocks, but my efforts were rewarded with a remarkable 360-degree view of the island. I’ve been to my fair share of unimpressive archaeological sites, so I assumed I’d found my destination.
But after snapping a few photos and making a video, I noticed a small white chapel off in the distance and soon realized that my perilous rock-climbing escapade had been a mistake. The Castelli was down a ways. I went down into the little church, and since no one was around, decided to toll the bells outside it.
A short stroll brought me down to the real archaeological site, which dates to the 6th century B.C., and an actual path that led to the main road. Aha! The ruins are forgettable but the view of the rocky cliffs in every direction is one I will never forget. Goats stood on top of the ruins, staring at me as I looked out at the sea, hoping to somehow retain a piece of this glorious scene somewhere in the back of my brain.
After soaking in the scene, I made my way down to the legit path, eager to figure out how I’d failed to see it on the way up. It turns out that I followed a path at a point where I needed to go through an unmarked gate that is actually the entrance to someone’s property.
Why there is no sign here marking the path is a mystery, but the fact that this site is so hard to find also means that you’ll have the place and the magical view all to yourself.
If you go: From Skala, follow the harbor road away from Hora. After about 1 kilometer, you’ll see a sign on your left advertising Ancient Acropolis. Make that left and follow the road and bear right at the first crossroad. The road ends at a private residence, but just a stone’s throw before the end, you’ll see a gate on your right with a number 1 painted on it. That’s the path, follow it down to the little white church and then go down to the Acropolis from there.
(All photos and videos by Dave Seminara. Note: some of the photos were taken on my second hike to the Acropolis.)
“Ladies, be careful,” warns Juan, our guide for Cajas National Park in Ecuador. “This forest is known to have evil elves.”
We are currently in the Quinoa Forest, which we are told, at 13,124 feet high, is the highest forest in the world. Because I’m from New York and don’t believe in elves, the warning does not scare me. However, there are various legends revolving around the forest that stem from Incan beliefs.
For one, elves, or chuzalungu in Cachua, the native Inca language, live in the forest and kidnap women and children. In my opinion, this may have stemmed from the highlanders being short, and if anything bad happened to a woman or child, the wrongdoer may have been mistaken as being an elf.
It’s not surprising so many mystical legends exist here. Walking through the Quinoa Forest, you’ll feel like you’re hiking through some kind of bizarre fairy tale, as you climb over twisted trees and tangled roots. In reality, the jungle gym-like terrain is due to the three feet of soil.Another legend is the Quinoa Forest is home to talking animals. This also stems from the Incas, probably because at that time they didn’t understand the talking macaw. To the Incas, a talking bird would have been preposterous. However, it created a belief that the forest was full of animals that could speak their language.
Finally, there is the legend – or possibly fact – that spirits roam the forest. The reason I say “possibly fact” is that many people have actually died here, from altitude sickness, getting lost, starving or freezing. According to Juan, 20 tourists have died since the boundaries of the park were created in 1979. Furthermore, many locals, including a 10-year-old boy whose skull was later found in a nearby lake, have lost their lives among the dark shadows of the Quinoa Forest trees.
For those who want to learn more about the Quinoa Forest and its many myths and legends, there is currently an Ecuadorian movie being made at the location. I’m not sure of all the details, but the premise has to do with a tourist getting lost in the woods and running into elves, spirits and other mythical characters.
Cajas National Park outside of Cuenca, Ecuador, is an idyllic and peaceful park with five ecosystems, over 150 bird species and many exceptional features. For example, Cajas has one of the highest densities of lakes in the world, and is also home to the Quinoa Forest, the world’s highest woodland at 13,124 feet. This area is also full of legends and myths from Inca times. Likewise, the park is a perfect example of an ice age park, as the area was created by glaciers. Cajas National Park is such a unique natural place, it is currently a candidate to be named a World Heritage Natural Site by UNESCO.
During a tour with Gray Line Ecuador, I got the chance to explore the park’s primary cloud forest, the lowest elevation area of the park at 10,171 feet and the Quinoa Forest. I also got to learn about Andean medicine and drugs, trace Inca history and take in great views of jagged mountains and crystal lakes.
For a better idea of the experience, check out the gallery below.
Summer can mean a trip to one of America’s national parks for many. These adventure-packed and history-rich destinations offer travelers a wide variety of vacation options at hundreds of locations. To promote America’s national parks and help with planning a summer park vacation, the Travel Channel has joined with the National Park Foundation (NPF) in a summer-long partnership of initiatives.
“Through this summer partnership, the National Park Foundation and Travel Channel, will provide the Network’s passionate viewers with the best tools and information to plan the perfect national park adventures,” said Neil Mulholland, president and CEO of the National Park Foundation, the official charity of America’s national parks.
Inspiring viewers to visit our 397 national parks as well as encourage volunteerism and monetary donations to NPF, the Travel Channel will support the NPF partnership via the network’s “Destination Summer” campaign.
Thirty hours of programming on America’s national parks will include celebrating “Get Outdoors Day” on Saturday, June 9.”Travel and tourism are big drivers of the U.S. economy, and this is one important way Travel Channel can make a very positive impact,” said Laureen Ong, president of Travel Channel. “We know our viewers are ready to lean in and experience life, and this partnership with the National Park Foundation will touch consumers on a very personal level, encouraging them to explore and appreciate the best destinations America has to offer.”
Chartered by Congress in 1967, the National Park Foundation is the official charity of America’s national parks, 84 million acres of the world’s most treasured landscapes, ecosystems and historic sites.
