A local point of view of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

by Jessica Festa on

“Então, você é do Rio de Janeiro?” asked the tan, freckled girl next to me on my flight from Miami, Florida, to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

I stared at her, unsure of what she’d said. “Inglés?”

“You speak English?” she asked, her eyes widening with excitement. “My mother is an English teacher. You have to meet her! What do you have planned for your time in Rio?”

I confided in her that I didn’t have much of anything planned. And this is how I got to experience Rio de Janeiro from a local point of view with my new best friend Clarissa leading the way.

What is so unique about the city of Rio de Janeiro is its beautiful beaches, cosmopolitan architecture, lush forests and unique mountains that can all be seen from any one vantage point. It’s also home to very friendly people, as Clarissa explained to me that the locals excitedly showing strangers around the city for no reason is “so Rio.”

I noticed the locals I met were very proud of Rio’s beauty, culture and heritage, and with good reason. While the other big Brazilian city of São Paulo is well known for its over-the-top work ethic and fast-paced style, Rio de Janeiro is more relaxed with a natural attractiveness.

History

Just because Rio is a beach town doesn’t mean there aren’t historical and educational sites.
For those coming to the city looking to learn about history, there are many options that even the residents consider worthwhile. Rio de Janeiro itself is historical, as it used to be the capital of Brazil until the government realized it wasn´t a good idea to have a capital that was so “exposed.” This is why they moved the capital to Brasília, an area located in the center of the country.My favorite historical site to visit was the Forte de Copacabana (pictured above), a military base located in the southern part of Rio de Janeiro. During the twentieth century, it was built to protect the coast and harbor from attack. Unfortunately, in 1922 rebel officers aimed the fort’s cannons at Rio de Janeiro during a revolt for social change. While the fort is no longer used for coastal defense, visitors can still go and check out the old cannons, architecture and a museum. There is also a charming outdoor restaurant called Confeitaria Colombo (pictured right) that serves a massive brunch with tea, coffee, chocolate, breads, cakes, cereals, yogurt and jams for 39 Reais (roughly US$21) for two people. Confeitaria Colombo has been around since 1894 and you can sit with a peaceful tree-lined avenue and the fort on your one side, and Copacabana Beach and the city skyline on your other. Surfers, kayakers and stand up paddle boarders provide entertainment during the meal.

Clarissa also told me about all of the old churches located in the city, the oldest one being Candelaria. It was the first church in Rio de Janeiro with its construction spanning from 1775 to the late nineteen century. The architecture is a baroque design and the structure itself is massive. While the building was home to many important historical events, such as massive protests and the devastating Candelaria Massacre on July 23, 1993, it is also a very sacred space. Whether you’re into history or not, I would recommend visiting the site and touring both the inside and outside, as it is a beautiful church that locals are very proud of. While telling me about the site, Clarissa also added that if you want to get married in Candelaria you should expect to pay an exorbitant amount of money.

I also enjoyed a visit led by my spontaneous local guide to the Teatro Municipal. It’s a theater located in the city center that was built in the early twentieth century. The building’s design was based on the Paris Opera, and the venue is a big part of the city’s art and cultural past in terms of foreign operas and symphonic orchestras. Today, the program of this grand theater has expanded and ballet and classical pieces are popular. If you don’t want to see a show, simply visit the theater to see the luxurious interior and grand design, or visit at night when it is all lit up.

Beaches

While many tourists head straight to Ipanema near Vinicius de Morais – a street named after the composer of the 1950’s hit song “Girl From Ipanema” – there are many other beautiful beaches with unique personalities. Start at Copacabana Beach (pictured right), which features impressive city-like architecture, the historical Copacabana Fort, impressive works of colorful sand art and an array of water and land activities. This beach is low-key and attracts a diverse crowd.

If you’re in the mood for a more VIP experience, make your way to Ipanema or Leblon Beach. Both are in upscale, expensive neighborhoods and attract only the most beautiful people, with these trendy, sexy beaches being no different. There are also very classy restaurants and lounges in the area, but only go if you have money to spend. On Sundays in Ipanema there is an excellent market from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in General Osório Square.

Barra Beach, although a bit hard to get to due to its traffic-heavy location, is in a more commercial setting. What’s great about this beach is it’s in completely open sea and away from the favelas. It’s also known for having very clean water and big waves that attract international surfers. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, head a little farther to Reserve Beach, which is in a completely protected area and has a very relaxed, calm setting. This is one of the beaches most loved by locals.

Once you get into the more mountainous, forest-covered areas, you will feel like you’re in a different city. The rare stretch of beauty starts with Macumba Beach, which is not only secluded within nature, but also a popular camping area. Next is the beach known by many locals as “the most beautiful beach in Rio,” Prainha Beach. Prainha is excellent for surfing and has a very small-town feel. Nearby, you will find an enormous flat rock in the water where locals sunbathe and try to catch fish. Pass a large mountain on your right and you will come to another amazing spot, Grumari Beach. This area is so hidden and off-the-beaten path that Argentine football (soccer) player Lionel Messi goes there to hide out. And if you’re feeling a little frisky, the nude beach is only seconds away behind the nearby rocks.

Hiking

As Rio de Janeiro is located in a very mountainous area, it’s no surprise that hiking is such a big part of local culture. While almost everyone has heard of Sugarloaf Mountain (pictured right), there is an array of worthwhile trails to discover. Pico Da Tijuca, located in an urban forest, is beautiful and easily accessible. It’s in a protected area and local fauna can be found like monkeys, snakes, frogs, birds and butterflies. Corcovado is another rare treat, as a trek to the top will bring you face-to-face with Jesus Christ himself – well, an enormous statue of him, anyway. The views from the top allow you to see the entire city at once.

The above-mentioned Sugarloaf is another great hike, and tourists and locals alike love the experience. Made of granite and quartz, the sugarloaf-resembling mass rises 1,299 feet above the Guanabara Bay with sweeping views of land, sea, forest and hills. Another unique formation is Pedra da Gavea, which resembles a sleeping giant. Here, trekkers can hike up a massive “nose” while wondering how such an odd shape could have been created by nature. There are also cryptic carvings and ancient inscriptions that make the site even more mysterious.
For an interesting mountain view, check out Two Brothers. While you can’t climb this unique natural formation, the two Siamese mountain twins make for a great photo, especially when viewed during a sunset from Ipanema Beach.

Dining

While you can find great food all over Rio de Janeiro, if you’re looking to dine where the locals do and eat typical Brazilian specialties, there are a few worthwhile places Clarissa introduced me to. For those wanting to sample famous Brazilian churrascaria, get dressed up and visit Churrascaria Porcao. Located near the airport in Flamengo, the traditional BBQ venue attracts high-class clientele and business people. Moreover, like most churrascarias you should expect to pay 80 Reais (roughly US$44) or more. While pricey, the meat, salad and seafood buffet is worth every penny, especially since there is a wall made of glass offering gorgeous views of the water. For something a little less traditional but just as classy and delicious, try Rio Brasa. Located in both Leblon and Barra, this trendy BBQ restaurant offers some of the best tasting meat in the country.

Another local dining trend in Rio de Janeiro is to go to a restaurant where you can enjoy imported beers, handcrafted brews and caipirinhas, and creative appetizers with an international and local fusion. One place to try this is Academia de Cachaça, which features outdoor seating and an array of specialty caipirinhas. I tried a peanut-infused one as well as one flavored with passion fruit and realized that, while I have sipped on cocktails in the United States that went by the same name, you’ve never really had a caipirinha until you’ve visited Brazil. They are extremely strong and flavorful, and just one will knock you right off your chair. For an appetizer, Carissa and I shared manioc balls baked with cheese and served on a bed of sweet chili sauce (pictured above). They reminded me of very delicious sweet and spicy tater tots. Devassa is another chain eatery with a similar concept, although a bit quirkier. The name literally means “horny,” and when ordering beers, patrons are asked questions like “would you like a horny blonde?” or “are you in the mood for a horny brunette?”

Nightlife

There are generally two areas that locals go to for nightlife: Lapa and Ipanema/Leblon. Both attract two different crowds. Lapa is where you should go if you’re looking for a casual but lively atmosphere where anything goes and everyone is accepted. All styles of music are played and it is truly a cultural experience. If you’re looking for something trendier with a more upscale crowd and sexy people, Ipanem and Leblon are where you’ll want to go. The venues are fancy, but you’ll be immersing yourself in a very classy and luxurious atmosphere. Before choosing your main spot for the night, pre-game at the ultra sexy Veloso in Leblon, which is where the most beautiful and hip people go. For something a bit more touristy but still enjoyed by locals, you can also head over to the Feira de Sao Cristovão. Here they bring the foods, music and dance from the northeast region of Brazil to Rio de Janeiro. While the party goes on every night from 8:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m., the weekends are where you’ll experience the most music and dance. Just be sure to take a taxi home and be careful, as the area surrounding the fair can sometimes be dangerous.

Dog’s-eye view of hiking Runyon Canyon

by Mike Barish on

There are few joys of dog ownership greater than spending a day outdoors with your pet. Going for a long hike is a simple pleasure that, when shared with your four-legged best friend, becomes a special experience. However, anyone who has ever had a dog has wondered what his or her furry companion is thinking. While we’ll never know exactly what goes on in a dog’s mind, thanks to this clever videographer (and his handy GoPro camera), we can now see what Riley the corgi saw while hiking Runyon Canyon in Los Angeles. Who knew hiking could be so adorable?

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10 reasons to visit Ghana, Africa

by Jessica Festa on

When planning a vacation, it isn’t too often you hear people choosing Ghana as their must-visit destination. In reality, there are many unique and worthwhile experiences to be had in this African country. Before I visited, I was unsure what to expect, as I didn’t know anyone who had ever been there. However, the friendly people, unique foods, and culturally immersive experiences made me fall in love with the country. To give you a better idea of what I’m talking about, here are 10 reasons you should add Ghana, Africa, to your bucket list.

Rich history

There are many fascinating museums and historical sites to visit in Ghana. If you want this to be the focus of your trip, I would recommend making a stop in the city of Cape Coast. This is where you’ll find Cape Coast Castle (pictured above) and Elmina Castle, two castle museums that were stops on the trans-Atlantic slave trade. While hard to stomach, a tour of these castles will give you an important lesson in history as you are shown dungeons, slave vessels, old cannons and secret chambers while hearing stories of the past. There are also numerous forts, like Fort William and Fort Victoria, which were used as lookout points to protect the city from Ashanti attacks in the nineteenth century.Lively drum and music culture

Everywhere you go in Ghana, you will find locals dancing to drum beats and listening to upbeat sounds. Even walking down the street in the capital of Accra, I felt like the sound of the Djembe drum was the soundtrack of my life. Nevertheless, this made it impossible to ever feel unhappy. When I was in Kokrobite, my friend and I took drum lessons on the beach from the boys at the local Berlin Drum School. It was amazing how they were able to create such intricate rhythms using just one drum. We also got to see the drummers put on an impromptu reggae dance show, which seemed to happen a lot in Ghana.

Budget-friendly

No matter what you’re financial situation is, it’s always nice to save money, especially on an international trip. Although in Ghana you will rarely find anything that’s free – I even got scolded for trying to use a Porta-Potty without paying the necessary fee. You will usually be paying less than you would at home for the same things. For example, a ride on the local bus (tro-tro) will cost about 15 cents, an ice cream pop, about 35 cents and a hostel bed about $6. I actually shared a clean and comfortable hotel room with two friends in the Volta Region that ended up costing us only $6 each, per night. Moreover, remember the first price you’re told in markets, small shops and when taking a taxi is the “oburoni price” (foreigner price), which is usually at least three times as much as a local would pay. Because of this, it is important to bring your best bartering skills and act confident that you know the local exchange, even if you don’t.

Volunteer opportunities

While Ghana is a great place to visit, there is no denying the country needs much help. According to UNICEF, in 2009 there were about 230,000-260,000 individuals living with HIV/AIDS, and because of this, millions of children are left orphans. Furthermore, pollution, child labor, and education are all areas that need improvement in the country. When I visited Ghana, I did orphanage work at the Achiase Children’s Home through International Volunteer Headquarters (IVHQ). It was an unforgettable experience as I not only got to help children, but also live with locals and really experience their way of life. IVHQ is one of the more affordable organizations around, and also features teaching, agricultural, medical and sports education programs. If you’re interested in helping with domestic abuse and women’s empowerment projects, Global Volunteer Network might be of interest to you. Additionally, SE7EN is a network of free and low-cost volunteer opportunities that can help you find a project without paying a middleman.

Friendly people

The people of Ghana are probably the friendliest people I have ever met. It doesn’t matter who you are, where you are or what you’re doing, the locals want to talk to you. Even at 6:00 a.m., when I would go running, locals would stop their cars or turn from their market stalls and try to talk to me. Remember that in Ghana greetings are very important. Locals tend to say hello to strangers, so be polite and wave back. As a visitor, you will constantly hear the word “oburoni” (foreigner) being shouted at you. While this may seem offensive – it took me a bit of getting used to – the locals are just trying to get to know you. Take the opportunity to have a conversation with someone new and learn something.

Natural experiences

Although Ghana is not a safari destination, it still has plenty of opportunities to experience nature and wildlife. Along with the many beaches and parks around the country, the city of Cape Coast offers the chance to trek over a swinging canopy bridge suspended high over the trees of Kakum National Park. The city also features a crocodile pond at Hans Cottage Botel where you can pet and sit on crocodiles.

My favorite location for natural experiences was in the Volta Region, specifically the secluded town of Wli-Afegame, located right outside HoHoe. Here, you will be immersed in mountain scenery, lush flora, and beautiful waterfalls. You can choose to hike to the top of Wli-Falls or Mount Afadjato, the tallest mountain in Ghana. Other nearby natural experiences include visiting the majestic Volta Lake and feeding monkeys in the jungle at the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary (pictured above).

Beautiful beaches

Ghana is home to some excellent beaches, and along with lying in the sun there are usually local artisans, fishermen and drummers giving the, usually lazy, experience a cultural touch. I loved chatting with the craftsmen as they made bracelets and art, and listening to the fishermen sing as they pulled in their nets. Even when these interesting locals aren’t around, the beaches in Ghana offer a refreshing and picturesque retreat from the more chaotic streets of the cities.

Unique foods

While you’ll always find ethnic foods when you travel to a foreign country, there is often an overlap of ingredients between those and the foods you are used to at home. In Ghana, however, there are many foods that I had never seen before in all my travels, like the root-based dishes fu-fu, banku, and kenkey. Furthermore, a lot of their soups have a rich and spicy peanut base, something I was not used to but fell in love with. With fruit, I became obsessed with the evo, a giant, prickly, melon-looking thing with a fluffy and fizzy inside. It has a sweet yet sour taste that reminds me of Pop Rocks or Sour Patch Kids.

Laid-back villages

In Ghana, you’ll find many bustling cities to explore; however, nearby you’ll almost always find a laid-back village to retreat to. These easy-going regions usually take on a Rastafarian-vibe, as there are many Ghanian locals who live a full-on Rastafarian lifestyle. These quieter areas are where I found it easiest to interact with locals on a more personal level, which was helpful for learning about the culture. My favorite laid-back village in Ghana was Kokrobite, accessible by tro-tro about 45 minutes outside Accra. Here, both locals and tourists congregate at Big Milly’s Backyard, a beachfront backpacker hostel with tiki-style accommodations, art fairs, live music, delicious food and reggae festivals.

Handicrafts and art

Art, beads, pottery, weaved clothing and woodcarvings are very important in Ghana culture and can be found anywhere you go. When browsing the art, you’ll probably notice certain symbols and images that come up repeatedly. Through these depictions, you’ll be able to learn a lot about societal themes and beliefs. Whenever I was in an art market, I enjoyed talking with the artists and asking them about the stories in their pieces. You’ll also find many carved masks and statues, each holding their own special meaning. If you’re a female and want a unique souvenir, buy a long, thin strand of beads, which is tied around the hips and known as “Ghanian lingerie.”

Five great hikes in Scotland

by Sean McLachlan on

Scotland is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. With a varied landscape of lush glens, steep mountains, and rugged coastline, there are plenty of great hikes in Scotland to satisfy any hiker. Here are five of the best.

West Highland Way
One of Scotland’s most popular hikes runs 96 miles from Milngavie to Ft. William. The trail offers a good sampling of many of Scotland’s ecozones including lochs, moors, forests, hills, and mountains. One highlight is the Devil’s Staircase, a rough ridge north of Glen Coe that offers challenging walking, and, if you go off the path, the toughest scrambling in Scotland. Check out the West Highland Way website for more information.

East Highland Way
Scotland’s newest long-distance trail starts at Ft. William and ends 78 miles later at Aviemore. In between, the trail passes three beautiful castles, prehistoric sites, several fine lochs, and a wonderfully remote and abandoned stretch of wilderness. For more information, check out my Gadling series on hiking the East Highland Way. Also check out the East Highland Way website.

Great Glen Way
Another popular hike, the Great Glen Way crosses Scotland from Ft. William to Inverness, a 79 mile route that takes you through a broad stretch of forest, as seen in this photo courtesy Karsten Berlin, and along the length of Lochs Locky, Oich, and Ness. Loch Ness is 23 miles long and the second largest loch in Scotland. Most walkers take nearly two days to walk its length, providing a chance to admire its beautiful scenery and mistake every ripple on its surface for a monster. I’ll probably be doing this hike in September. Stay tuned for a special Gadling series!

%Gallery-150536%North to Cape Wrath
Despite this being an unmarked and unofficial trail, there are two guidebooks dedicated to hiking to the Scottish mainland’s northernmost point — the lighthouse at Cape Wrath. One route starts at Ft. William and is 202 miles; the other starts at Banavie and covers much the same ground, clocking in at 205 miles. Parts of the route are unmarked and even uninhabited, meaning you’ll have to bring a lot of gear. This is not a hike for the inexperienced. On the other hand, you’ll be seeing some of Scotland’s most remote spots. The hardy souls who have done this have told me it was one of the toughest challenges they’ve ever faced, and the most rewarding.

The Clyde Coast Way
If hiking to Cape Wrath is a bit more than you want to tackle, the Clyde Coast Way is a lot shorter and more forgiving. At only 50 miles, it can easily be done in four days and provides plenty of stunning views of Scotland’s southwest coast. As you walk from Ayr to Greenock, you’ll have mountains on one side and distant islands on the other. You’ll pass through several coastal towns, each with their own attractions such as historic churches and, more importantly, pubs. There’s easy access to roads, railway stations, and accommodation throughout, making this a good choice for the beginning hiker who wants plenty of beautiful scenery.

Another great hike worth considering isn’t actually in Scotland, although you can see Scotland from the trail. The Hadrian’s Wall Path follows the length of Hadrian’s Wall from Wallsend 84 miles to Solway Estuary. You’re just on the English side of the border for much of the time and you can visit several Roman forts along the way. You also get bragging rights for having walked across England. Just don’t mention you did it at its narrowest part!

10 free things to do in Dublin, Ireland

by Jessica Festa on

With the big St. Patrick’s Day festival in Dublin, Ireland, coming up it’s likely that people traveling to Dublin in the near future should expect to bring lots of extra cash. Although you may need to splurge on food and festivities, there are ways to help you save money on other aspects of your trip. To help Dublin travelers make their trips as budget-friendly as possible, here are ten free things to do in the city.

Stroll through the National Botanic Gardens

The National Botanic Gardens is home to various plants as well as serene woodland settings, lush trees, romantic bridges, and peaceful ponds that make for enjoyable scenery on a midday stroll. To help expand your knowledge of flora even further, programming that includes discussions, workshops, and films is available to the public. Furthermore, every Sunday visitors can take a free guided walking tour at 12 p.m. and 2:30 p.m.Take a free walking tour of the city

When traveling through Europe, I swear by SANDEMAN’s NEW Europe walking tours. These tours are completely free and guides get paid in tips only. While this may seem risky, the quality of the tours is so high it really isn’t a problem for the guides. During the Dublin tour, you will learn the history of city sites in a fun and interactive way while also stopping off at a traditional English pub for lunch. If you still want more, sign up for their nightly pub crawl.

Explore Trinity College

Trinity College is not your average university college; in fact, it’s not only beautiful but historical. The college, which is the oldest in Ireland, was founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592 and features neatly manicured lawns, charming cobblestone paths, and beautiful Georgian architecture. While it’s free to walk around the campus and take photos, there is an admission fee to go see the ancient “Book of Kells” which is located in the Old Library.

Check out the street performers on Grafton

Street performing, or busking, is very popular in Dublin. If you want to increase your chances of seeing top-notch performances, head over to Grafton Street, which is the unofficial stage for street entertainment. Here you’ll be able to see everything from acoustic performers to people on stilts juggling basketballs.

Trek the Howth Coastal Path and feed the seals

At the northern tip of Dublin Bay, you will find the beautiful area of Howth Head (shown right). During a coastal walk of the region, you will be able to view Lambay Island, Ireland’s Eye, Baily Lighthouse, Howth Castle, and the Wicklow Mountains as you traverse over rugged cliff tops. Additionally, you’ll be able to feed seals once you reach Howth Harbour and stop for lunch at local pubs along the way. You can begin the hike east of Howth Village at the Balscadden Bay parking area and make your way around the Nose of Howth.

Learn some history and culture at a local museum

When visiting a city, it’s always a good idea to get a sense of the place by visiting a museum. One of Dublin’s best free museums is the National Museum of Ireland, which is actually a set of separate museums containing exhibits on archeology, history, culture, decorative arts, and more. Additionally, if you stop by the former Mariner’s Church there is the National Maritime Museum of Ireland, which allows visitors to explore the country’s maritime history. The museum is closed right now but will reopen on April 3, 2012. The Irish Jewish Museum, the National Photographic Archive, and Pearse Museum are also excellent free museums to add to your budget-friendly itinerary.

Get creative at an art museum

There are plenty of options in Dublin where you can experience high quality art for free. Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art features an array of impressionist and postimpressionist artists, with the main component being from Hugh Lane, an Irish art connoisseur who died in the 1915 sinking of the Lusitania. If you’re there April-June, you can enjoy a free summer concert series that takes place each Sunday. There is also the country’s most popular art gallery, the National Gallery of Ireland, where you can explore Irish and European art from the 14th-20th centuries. Other options for free art include the Irish Museum of Modern Art, the Chester Beatty Library, and the Temple Bar Gallery and Studio.

Explore the Docklands

This is one of my favorite area’s of Dublin, especially since you don’t need to spend any money to enjoy its aesthetic features. There’s nothing like witnessing the city skyline behind the River Liffey and visitors will get the chance to take in unique art galleries, lively markets, beautiful bridges, Mayor Square, Chimney Park, Grand Canal Square, and lots of public art.

Get religious at a local church

While the more well-known churches like St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral charge an admission fee outside of mass times, there are many other beautiful and worthwhile places of worship that are free to enter. There is Saint Ann’s Church of Ireland (shown right), which incorporates an array of unique architectural styles and features memorials of well-known Dublin locals; Our Lady of Mount Carmel, where you can see a 16th-century shrine of Our Lady of Dublin along with relics of Saint Valentine; and Saint Mary’s Pro Cathedral, the Cathedral Church of the Archdiocese of Dublin.

Take in natural beauty at a Dublin park

There are many picturesque parks in Dublin where visitors can play sports, people-watch, read a book, or just lounge on a sunny day. First there is St. Stephen’s Green, with bright floral gardens, charming fountains, and various memorials honoring notable Dubliners. There’s also Phoenix Park, which was established in 1662 and is one of the “largest enclosed recreational spaces within any European capital city.” Merrion Square Park is also a worthwhile visit and features historical sculptures, beautiful gardens, and live performances.