Trekking Tajikistan

by Kraig Becker on

The mountain countries of Central Asia have been a bit of a hidden gem for adventure travel in recent years. While the vast majority of people can’t find Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan on the map as of yet, the more adventurous travelers have begun to hear tales of rugged, remote mountain trails that weave their way through mostly unspoiled backcountry with some of the most stunning views on the planet.

That’s exactly what London Times reporter Caroline Eden found when she traveled through the High Pamir mountains of Tajikistan recently. She wrote about her experiences trekking amongst the 7000 meter peaks of the Geisev Valley, describing crystal clear mountain lakes, wide open skies, and tiny, remote villages populated by friendly, hospitable people. Best of all, the country has few tourists, which meant she often had the trails to herself, and many of her nights were spent staying with locals, which gave her a very personal glimpse into their daily lives.

The travel experience in Tajikistan has a lot to offer on the cultural and historical level as well. The former Soviet satellite has long been a crossroads for trade between the East and West, with major routes along the Silk Road passing through the country. Islam is the predominant religion now, but there are elements of Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity, and even Zoroastrianism, each having an impact on the people that live there.

While that culture and history is interesting however, the big draw for the country is what it has to offer adventure travelers. Aside from the amazing trekking, there is plenty of rock climbing, horse and camel riding, and backpacking to keep you occupied for week, and mountaineers are also discovering the challenge of the “three giants” of the Pamirs, namely Peak Somoni, Peak Lenin and Peak Korzhenevskaya, which have earned there place amongst the top alpine climbing destinations in the region.

In the Corner of the World: Fox Glacier

by Mike Barish on

The thought of hiking a glacier evokes images of arctic expeditions involving months of travel and thousands of dollars worth of gear. You don’t expect anyone to ever describe a trip to a glacier as “convenient” or the hike as “leisurely.” But leave it to New Zealand to do everything differently, including seemingly arduous outdoor activities. New Zealand’s Fox Glacier is one of the world’s most accessible glaciers and provides an opportunity for adventurers of varying aptitudes to explore one of nature’s disappearing wonders.

Fox Glacier is a mere ten minute drive from the local township and a few hundred meters from the car park that has been built for visitors. And since it resides within Westland National Park, it’s free for anyone who wants to come and take a gander. But if you want to truly experience the glacier by hiking on its icy terrain, your best bet is to hire a guide, strap on some crampons and get out there with the proper gear and supervision.

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While you are not required to have a guide to hike Fox Glacier, it is strongly recommended that only experienced hikers with proper gear attempt it on their own. For casual hikers or curious tourists, guides are necessary to keep you safe and to make the trip has fun and educational as possible. Fox Glacier Guiding provides just such a service and they led my group on a gray October afternoon.

Beyond providing a guide, Fox Glacier Guiding equips their guests with proper boots, socks and crampons. After a short shuttle bus ride to glacier site, we set off on the walk to the glacier. While the hike is by no means backbreaking, it does involve upwards of 700 steps that have been built into the hills of the neighboring rainforest that abuts the glacier, as well as a stepladder that sits at roughly a 45-degree angle. People of all ages and abilities can traverse the path, but be sure to bring water to stay hydrated and let your guide know about any health concerns you may have.

Lest you think I am exaggerating the need for a guide and to follow instructions posted along the paths, keep in mind that two Australian brothers who went outside the designated hiking area were killed at Fox Glacier in January 2009. Like any natural wonder, Fox Glacier must be respected and common sense should be used when enjoying it.

After a meandering walk through the rainforest and along some gorgeous and only mildly-harrowing cliffs, we finally arrived at the base of Fox Glacier. We spent about an hour or so on the glacier with our guide, Rodger, while learning about the its formation and recession. Fox Glacier Guiding maintains the glacier paths an ensures that tourism doesn’t damage the ecosystem.

After several hours we made our way back to town and were no worse for wear. It was hard to believe that we had left our hotel rooms, hiked a glacier and made it back in one relatively easy day. No charts or ice-breaking ships were needed and I did most of the walk in shorts, as my body temperature rose from walking uphill continuously. It definitely gets chilly on the glacier face, so be sure to pack layers so that you can manage your comfort level. And if you run out of water, there’s a constant supply running through the glacier and down nearby waterfalls that is cold and pure.

While New Zealand is known for activities like bungee jumping and Zorbing, its best attribute is the diverse landscape. Everyday in New Zealand should be spent outside, and there are few better places to do that than Fox Glacier.

Mike Barish traveled to New Zealand on a trip sponsored by Air New Zealand and Tourism New Zealand. No editorial content was guaranteed and Mike was free to report openly on his experiences. He never spit out the wine and managed not to cry during any of the death-defying activities that Kiwis love. At least not in public. Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.

The Spice Isle: Where trails are paved with nutmeg shells

by Alison Brick on

“You can use it for tea” he says after picking the small leaf and handing it to me to smell.

There doesn’t seem to be anything that Telfor Bedeau doesn’t know about Grenada’s plants. In the past 50 yards alone, he’s pointed out trees that would’ve gone unnoticed as anything other than anonymous tropical trees. But now they’re recognized as some of my favorite things in the world: guava, mango, cinnamon. I’m already imagining my next supermarket trip back home going a little differently.

Telfor would be considered spry for any age, but especially since he just turned 70. He celebrated the day by doing what he seems to do (and love) best: hiking up to the top of Grenada’s highest peak, Mount Saint Catharine (2,757 feet).

It was his 157th time.

Known as the “Indiana Jones of Grenada,” he reached the milestone of having hiked 10,000 miles throughout Grenada in 2005. Guiding since 1990, he hikes in jellies (plastic sandals) while everybody else on the trail relies on treaded sneakers and walking sticks. He’s easy to extend a smile to everyone, and a hand to anyone who needs one.

It’s not that I’m writing this to flatter him — there’s little chance that he’ll read this, since he doesn’t use a computer or have email. No doubt it contributes to his youthful appearance. That and all the hiking. And the fact that his diet solely consists of raw fruits and vegetables.

So it was with intrigue –- both in my hiking guide Telfor and the trail –- that I hiked to the Seven Sisters Waterfalls in Grand Etang National Park.

%Gallery-77232%It’s a manageable walk — about 45 minutes one-way. If it’s considered tricky at all, it’s because of the ramped up mud- and slick-factor after a rain shower (and it is home to a rain forest, after all).

After paying EC$5 fee (per person) because the trail is on private property, we descend between plantations that are growing food I’m just getting to know for the first time, like callaloo and sorrel. We continue down steeper terrain where steps are made of large rocks, or clay that’s reinforced by bamboo (which also grows along the trail and creaks in the wind at intervals). The path meanders through lush greenery of all shapes and heights –- ferns, banana trees, strangler figs, palm trees.

Telfor takes a swipe at a vine stock with his machete, to show me its hollow core. “It’ll grow back,” he explains. Such is the nature of these quick-growing plants here — the first to sprout after Hurricane Ivan.

Areas that are muddy are mulched by nutmeg shells — an ingenious use of the island’s abundant throw-away. (You can even catch a subtle whiff of fragrance after the shells break underfoot.)

After rock-hopping across a river, we reach the two cascades of water, each falling into its own pool. There’s room for lounging along the side, but most people seem to head straight into the waterfall of the upper pool. My preferred vantage point: mid-way in the upper pool, looking up at the steep cliffs on either side, covered in a mix of big-leafed, exotic greenery.

The return trip is the same route back. In this direction, you’ll likely use the walking stick (on loan from the start) to help with the upward climb, rather than to navigate slippery sections downhill. I figure that the slower uphill pace gives me more time to look for the rain forest’s mona monkeys and armadillos, but no such sightings.

If you want to replicate the Seven Sisters hike on your own, you can reach it by hiring a car or joining a tour. Or you can specifically hire Telfor as a guide for the day (US$40 for 1 person, $30/each for 2 people, $25 for 3+ people, regardless of how long the day is. Phone: 473.442.6200).

Alison Brick traveled through Grenada on a trip sponsored by the Grenada Board of Tourism. That said, she could write about anything that struck her fancy. (And it just so happens that these are the things that struck her fancy.) You can read more from her The Spice Isle: Grenada series here.

Know the limitations of GPS when hiking

by Kraig Becker on

There is no doubt that using a GPS has changed the way we travel. Adding one of the little devices to our cars allows us to navigate effortlessly to our destinations and has all but eliminated our need to carry road maps or stop off at the local gas station to ask for directions. That same technology can be of benefit when we leave the vehicle behind and hit a hiking trail as well, although hikers should be aware of the limitations of their devices, and be prepared to use their common sense and good judgment when employing such a device.

Hand held GPS units are very common and inexpensive these days. Most are small, light weight and battery operated, allowing them to be dropped into your backpack when you head out for the day. They generally offer such features as trail maps, suggested points of interest, and topographical data, all of which can be helpful for finding your way in the backcountry.

But unlike GPS devices in our cars, our hand held units don’t do “turn-by-turn” navigation while out in the wilderness, mostly because there are no clear cut roads or landmarks that can be used in the same fashion as when we are on the streets, and natural obstacles can abound. Hikers are instead provided with a general indication of where their destination is from their current position in an “as the crow flies” fashion, and they are forced to navigate to that destination themselves. When doing so, they’ll generally take advantage of the GPS’s built in electronic compass and topographical information to assist them, but more importantly, they’ll need to constantly survey the terrain, adjusting their course as needed, in order to reach their end point successfully.
Speaking of terrain, it can also have a direct impact on the performance of your GPS device while hiking. In order to find your location, you’ll need a clear view of the sky overhead, and that works fine when you’re in a wide open field. But many trekkers have found their hand held GPS can’t connect to the orbiting satellites when they are under a thick canopy of trees or deep in a canyon or gorge where the sky is obscured by the rock walls. It is important to know how your device will perform on the trails that you’ll be hiking so as to avoid a surprise that may leave you lost in the woods and without alternative methods of find your way.

The battery life of our hand held GPS units are also a cause for concern, as they can chew through a full charge in to time at all if you’re not careful. That means you’ll need to carry more batteries in your backpack, which hampers the portability of the device to a degree. And should you run out of juice while on the trail, then your expensive electronic toy becomes useless. Make sure it is fully charged before heading out, and that you’re aware of how long the batteries last under typical conditions. Also keep in mind that cold weather will have an impact on battery life as well, often reducing run times dramatically.

Most of this isn’t new information of course, and experienced hikers have learned that a GPS can be an invaluable tool. However, they’ve also learned not to become overly reliant on the devices, preferring instead to continue to use the time tested skills of reading maps and compasses to find their way. Those skills are enhanced however by being able to turn on the GPS, take some quick readings to find your bearings, plot your course on the map, and set out for your destination, returning to the GPS from time to time to ensure that you’re still on course and making adjustments as necessary.

Despite some of these drawbacks to the use of a hand held GPS, they can be quite a powerful addition to anyone’s mandatory gear list. They are an excellent navigational tool, as long as the person using it is familiar with both the strengths and limitations of such a device. Finding our way in the backcountry has never been so easy, and we’re definitely safer than ever while on the trail.

Classic Treks: The Continental Divide Trail

by Kraig Becker on

When it comes to long distance treks, the U.S. is blessed with not one great hike, but three. Most people already know about the Appalachian Trail in the eastern part of the country and the Pacific Crest Trail in the west, but the third jewel of the trekking Triple Crown is the Continental Divide Trail, which just might be the most scenic and challenging of all.

The CDT stretches for more than 3100 miles from the border of Canada at the northern end to the Mexican border in the south. In between, it runs through Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico, as it winds its way through some of the most rugged and remote mountain regions in the United States, including the San Juans, the Sawatch Range, and the Tetons, amongst others.

The trail derives its name because it runs directly along the Continental Divide, which marks the barrier between the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean drainage basins. To one side, all the rivers run west to the Pacific, while on the other, they turn east toward the Atlantic. The Rocky Mountains, running from northern Canada, down through the U.S. create this effect, and serve as a dramatic backdrop to this long distance hike.Unlike the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest, the CDT is not quite complete yet. Right now it is constructed of a number of smaller trails and roads that are interconnected, and while hiking those paths, the difficult can range from a moderate to strenuous hike, with altitude playing a role in the challenge. There are some areas however where the trails do not meet, forcing trekkers to bushwhack their way through rugged backcountry. The CDT also happens to be longer than those other two trails, stretching nearly a thousand miles further in length than the Appalachian, and more than 450 miles longer than the Pacific Crest. Add more elevation gain to the mix, and you’ll begin understand why this trail is held in such high regard.

Due to the very rugged, and remote nature of the CDT, there are fewer thru-hikers then there are on the other long distance trails in the U.S. It takes roughly six months to cover the entire distance, and various segments provide different, and very unique challenges. For example, in the south, along the leg that runs through New Mexico, there is little water to be found, forcing hikers to bring plenty of their own, although local hiking groups do supply water caches at strategic points along the way. In contrast, at the northern end, in Montana and Idaho, trekkers may find plenty to drink, but will instead be dodging grizzly bears and gray wolves.

While the Continental Divide Trail may be the forgotten leg of hiking’s Triple Crown, it is spectacular none the less. The trail is less crowded than its companions, offers more challenges, and is more rugged and remote too. For those that have already completed the AT and the PCT, the lure of the CDT is too much to pass up, and they find that it is worth the hike, and quite possibly surpasses those other two trails in nearly every way.