Pyongyang gets a “taste” of capitalism

by Tom Johansmeyer on

North Korea, the reclusive Communist state, is always reluctant to try something new. The government controls information tightly, as anyone who has read updates from the Korea Central News Agency can see. But, occasionally, a fissure forms in the barriers that separate the most remote country on Earth from the rest of the world. And now, the people who are slowly developing a taste for pizza and beer are taking a look at burgers and fries.

Pyongyang is now home to North Korea’s first fast food restaurant, where the locals can scarf down the same grub that’s made so many Americans overweight … though rampant poverty is unlikely to allow the nation supersize overnight. Named Samtaesong, the place pairs kimchi with burgers, fries and waffles. Beer, a local fave, is available on tap. There are plans to add croissants and hot dogs to the menu – a natural combo – and to open up other locations in the country’s capital.

The food isn’t cheap, according to the North Korean media outlet Choson Sinbo (which is based in Tokyo. A hamburger will set you back $1.70, which is more than half what the average North Korean earns in a day. Fortunately, Pyongyang is home to the country’s wealthiest citizens (so much for the Communist objective of financial equality), so they can afford to eat fast food.

There are other signs of capitalism encroaching on Kim Jong Il’s turf. He was reported to have visited a convenience store recently, though accounts stop just short of whether Apu invited him to “come again!” The Dear Leader did pick up five bottles of a Korean liquor known as “makgeolli” and other drinks.

Fast food, convenience stores … this is starting to prove something I’ve believed for quite a while. Future wars will not be won with armored divisions and air strikes. Instead, ambition, taste and style – the nuts and bolts of capitalism – will yield victory and create foundations for freedom around the world. While I hate to give Puff Daddy P. Diddy Diddy Sean John Combs his due, it really is “all about the Bejamins.”

A successful free enterprise, of course, requires that customers be willing to come back to more. Well, Samtaesong is already on the right track, having had its first satisfied customer, George Bottomley. But, that’s not such a big deal – his only reference point is the food back in Britain.

Hawaii says “stay away” to the Wienermobile

by Scott Carmichael on

Apple pie, Baseball and the Wienermobile – seriously, there is not much more American than the iconic Oscar Mayer hotdog on wheels.

People everywhere love seeing the Wienermobile, and contests are held yearly so people can get a chance to drive it themselves.

Unless of course you live in Hawaii. An archaic 1927 law bans all billboards on the Hawaiian islands, and a local organization claims the Wienermobile should be part of that ban. The group, Outdoor Circle, is pushing to keep the hotdog off the island forever.

The Wienermobile visited Hawaii for 3 weeks in July, and as far as Outdoor Circle is concerned, that is going to be its last visit.

According to the people behind the organization, “6 to 12 O’ahu residents complained”. A 2006 law banning all vehicles with the sole purpose of advertising was also cited in the complaint.

The Honolulu mayor welcomed the Wienermobile to his city, and it was honored with an official “Oscar Mayer Wiener Day”. The mayor is now looking into possible violations, but pointed out that no official complaints were received by them.

Sometimes you just wonder whether people are having such a hard time finding better things to do. Complaining about the Wienermobile violating a 1920’s law just seems like a huge waste of time.
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One week in Chicago: Food

by Mike Barish on

Last week I introduced you to my mini-guide to Chicago. When I finalized my plans to spend a week there, I followed the advice of Frugal Travel Matt Gross and let all my Twitter followers and Facebook friends know that I was accepting any and all recommendations on things to do and places to go. Of course, I was inundated with an incredible amount of useful advice, almost all of which included ideas for where I should eat. That’s why today I’m going to focus solely on food. I hope you’re hungry, because things are about to get gluttonous.

Chicago doesn’t have just one iconic food; It has several. The Chicago dog, deep dish pizza and Italian beef sandwiches are all quintessentially Chicago. As the recommendations came pouring in from my friends, I knew I’d have to be ambitious in my eating when I arrived in Chicago. None of the aforementioned dishes are light. None are healthy. But they’re all pretty amazingly delicious (except for deep dish pizza, but we’ll get to that later).

How much can one man eat over seven days in Chicago? How memorable can it really be? Let’s just say I experienced the best burger of my life and the joy that is a sandwich with ham and peanut butter.

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Hot Doug’s – Hot Doug’s was recommended to me by countless people. It was visited by Anthony Bourdain for an episode of No Reservations. It’s not a secret, but it is fantastic. This is not your average hot dog joint. Sure, you can get a Chicago dog here. But you can also get a foie gras dog or have your french fries cooked up in duck fat. It’s decadent, for sure, but it’s also insanely delicious. I opted for the venison sausage with cheddar and bacon sausage with caramelized onions and brie.

Wiener’s Circle – A Chicago institution, Wiener’s Circle is known for its customer service. Well, more like customer berating. As day turns to night and more and more customers start arriving in a state of inebriation, the employees behind the counter begin to yell, curse and bark at customers. And the customers hurl the insults right back. Showtime and NPR’s This American Life even documented the phenomenon. I went for a sober lunch, so I was politely given an outstanding Chicago dog.

Al’s #1 Italian Beef – Yes, it’s a chain. Yes, it doesn’t look all that quaint or authentic. But Al’s #1 Italian Beef is the place to go for this greasy, meaty sandwich. Be sure to get it with both sweet peppers and giardiniera. Make sure you have plenty of napkins handy.

Kuma’s Corner – I’m a hamburger snob. You can’t just throw any meat on a bun and expect me to say that you have a good burger. Well, I am without a doubt prepared to say that I had the best hamburger of my life at Kuma’s Corner. First things first, Kuma’s Corner is not T.G.I. Friday’s. If you don’t like listening to blasting rock music while you eat, don’t go. If you don’t like a place with bourbon on tap at the bar, don’t go. If you don’t like a place that names their burgers after heavy metal bands, don’t go. That said, if you enjoy all of these things and are amused by a hamburger called the Goblin Cock (a hamburger with a full Chicago dog on top), then get to Kuma’s Corner post-haste. I opted for their signature Kuma Burger, which came with bacon, cheddar and a fried egg (my favorite burger accoutrement). I ordered it medium rare and it came to me red on the inside and warmed through. In other words, perfect. Juicy, flavorful and simply the best burger I have ever eaten.

Pizzeria Due – While the original Pizzeria Uno and Pizzeria Due are officially part of the Pizzeria Uno chain, the two flagship locations are allowed to keep their unique menus and are considered authentic restaurants as opposed to the other franchise location. But, you see, deep dish pizza ain’t pizza. Sorry, but it’s the truth. Sure, it’s sauce, bread and cheese. But it’s more of a casserole than a pizza. The flavor ratios are off. The sauce is on top. That’s just wrong. Frankly, it’s an abomination. My friend told me to consider it a “lasagna with a biscuit crust.” Well, that seems like a slippery slope toward those Dominos Pasta Bread Bowls. That’s not a good thing.

Perry’s Deli – “Because it’s there.” That was George Mallory’s response to a reporter who asked him why he wanted to climb the world’s tallest mountain. And it was my response when my friend asked me why I was going to Perry’s Deli to try the Peter Panski – a sandwich with ham, bacon, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and…peanut butter. Before you scoff, gag and/or stop reading, hear me out. This crazy combination actually works! The sweetness of the peanut butter compliments the ham. The smooth and creamy texture plays nicely with with the chewiness of the thick-cut bacon. After a few bites, I found myself no longer eating the Peter Panski for the novelty of it and was just enjoying my lunch. Afterwards, however, I did need a nap.

Sun Wah Bar-B-Que – If you’re looking for a break from typical Chicago cuisine, head over to Sun Wah for some Peking duck and other succulent Chinese dishes. Go with a group so that you can share, though. While the Peking duck buns were a treat, my friends and I are still talking about just how big our oysters were. Served with garlic and ginger, the oysters were roughly the size of a bread plate. While bigger does not always mean better when it comes to food, these oysters were flavorful, delicate and had a liquor that was beyond delicious. Order a Tsingtao or three to cut through that duck fat and spin the lazy Susan until there’s nothing left to eat.

< a href="http://www.lulacafe.com/" target="_blank">Lula Cafe – Not every meal I enjoyed was over-indulgent and ridiculous. Lula Cafe provided me with a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a fresh, seasonal and expertly crafted meal. Their Monday “Farm Dinner” features seasonal ingredients from local farms and is worth every penny. The menu is simple, but when the ingredients are this fresh and the kitchen is staffed by chefs who are respectful of their menu and their customers, simple is better. If the weather is cooperating, sit outside, order a beer and enjoy a quality meal with no pretense.

As you can imagine, I gained a few pounds in Chicago. But it was totally worth it! How did I work off all the new found weight? Check back tomorrow when I review some of my favorite Chicago activities.

Check out my Chicago food gallery here.

Special thanks to Jenny Lee, Joe Hobaica, Mike Lee, Gadling’s own Jeremy Kressmann and everyone else for their food suggestions.

Hotel Hellsten a must in Stockholm

by Tom Johansmeyer on

You expect a certain sleekness when you step into a Scandinavian hotel. The region is known for its nascent design talent, and a pedestrian property would detract from your experience. To get the full flavor of Stockholm, park yourself at the Hotel Hellsten. Comfort and style come together easily in these boutique digs. You’ll close your eyes in the warmth of a soft bed and open them to slick internal scenery.

The hardwood floors are nothing short of charming, and the bathroom is more spacious than what you find elsewhere in Europe. Stretch out in the bathtub (unless you’re taller than I am … in which case you don’t deserve to be enveloped in liquid heat), and forget about home, work and the stack of bills on the kitchen table. This is your time, not theirs.

Most views look out to the street or inward to the small courtyard. My situation was a bit unfortunate, however, as my window opened to the breakfast room. If you occupy my former spot, don’t forget to close the curtains. It’s awkward for everyone, otherwise.

If you stay at the Hotel Hellsten, you’ll find yourself right around the corner from Sweden‘s most amazing hot dogs. The stand serves grilled dogs in a pita with mashed potatoes, onions, lettuce, mustard and ketchup. It sounds unusual (and is), but try it anyway. Then, get a plain hot dog with only mustard, because these dogs can stand on their own. The mustard tastes like that in Iceland, with a hint of the cheese flavor from Oscar Mayer cheesedogs. There’s nothing like it — except in Iceland or at your local supermarket.

[Photo thanks to Hotel Hellsten]

Iceland with a prophetic viking

by Tom Johansmeyer on

If you’re going to walk around Reykjavik, Iceland, do it with Jonas Thorsteinsson. A guide on the GoEcco walking tour of the city, he knows more than which Viking killed who, where and how. In fact, the only word to describe Thorsteinsson is “prophetic.”

I took his free walking tour backing June. The most insightful moment came when Thorsteinsson showed us one of Reykjavik’s oldest houses, which was then on the market for $1 million-thanks to the decimation of the Icelandic Kroner, the price has probably come way down since then. Thorsteinsson explained that Iceland had been caught up in a real estate bubble, with mortgage rates reaching an absurd 20 percent. Think about putting a $1 million home on your credit card.

“It’s not going to last,” he noted. “It can’t.” Remember: he said this in June 2008.

Thorsteinsson called it well. By October, Iceland was on the verge of financial destruction, because of a credit-fueled disaster. For tourists, the moral of the story is clear: take the GoEcco walking tour. You’ll learn more about the locals than you will anywhere else.

By the way, Thorsteinsson suggests that you buy a hot dog at Baejarins Beztu. I agree. The mustard has a hint of the same taste you’ll find in Oscar Mayer cheesedogs, which I happen to enjoy.