Travel disruptions from Japan earthquake and tsunami continue

After the record earthquake and devastating tsunami delivered a near knock-out punch to Japan yesterday, the damage is still being assessed. The death toll is rising, fears of a nuclear disaster worsen, travel alerts have been issued and hundreds of flights have been canceled as tens of thousands of travelers have been left stranded.

In Japan, both Narita (NRT) and Haneda airports (HND) which handle international and domestic flights for Tokyo were closed Friday, leaving 14,000 passengers stranded. Sendai airport (SDJ), 300 kilomerters to the north was virtually destroyed by the tsunami. Both Haneda and Narita have reopened but it is expected that flight schedules will be affected into early next week as Japanese travelers from around the world struggle to get back home.Elsewhere, the effect of Japan’s airport failures combined with a huge increase in demand for flights into Japan have had a cascading effect on travel around the globe. Airports from Canada to London saw delayed flights as the U.S. issued a travel alert urging U.S. citizens “to avoid tourism and non-essential travel to Japan at this time.”

In Japan, it is considered poor form to take a vacation when your family or your employer needs you. Beyond the strong, immediate need Japanese travelers out of the country have to get back home, future travel plans could affect tourism world-wide for quite some time.

The U.S Department of State noted in its alert shortly after the event that “Strong aftershocks are likely for weeks following a strong earthquake such as this one.” Indeed, at least 20 aftershocks ranging from 5 to 6.8 magnitude have hit Japan, a day after the 8.9 magnitude caused mass destruction.

Getting up to speed on the problem at Japan’s nuclear power plants, Friday’s events caused concern that reactors left without normal cooling capability are on a countdown to meltdown. Hour by hour, battery backup that replaced diesel generators used in the nuclear core cooling process weaken. In a race against time, at some point radioactivity will be released if the problem is not corrected.

“The events that occurred at these plants, which is the loss of both offsite power and onsite power, is one of the rarest events to happen in a nuclear power plant, and all indications are that the Japanese do not have the situation under control,” Edwin Lyman, a nuclear expert told The Telegraph today.


It was a one, two, knock-out punch as the quake and tsunami took out the Daiichi reactor’s off-site power source and then tsunami waves disabled the backup source of power.

Beyond the melt-down concern, about a 1 million homes were reported without power.


Video
and photos of the disaster both during and after the earthquake and hurricane provide little hope that travel disruptions from Japan’s earthquake and tsunami will go away any time soon.

Big in Japan: Bullet train set to beat domestic rail speed record


With the possible exception of the perfectly conical Mt. Fuji and the humble cherry blossom, there is perhaps no greater symbol of Japan than the shinkansen (新幹線) or bullet train. Racing across the archipelago at veritable race car speeds, the bullet train is the technological manifestation of performance, precision and elegance.

The statistics behind the bullet train are certainly impressive.

First debuting in 1964, the bullet train now runs along more than 1,500 miles of high-speed track. The rail system connects most major cities on the islands of Honshu and Kyushu, with planned extensions to Hokkaido starting in 2015.

Although world-speed records for conventional rail belong to the French TGV and the Chinese CRH, the Shinkansen is anything but a slow workhorse. The Nozomi superexpress, which runs between Tokyo and Hakata, reaches speeds of up to 180 mph. But there is a new bullet train in town that is about to change everything.

On that note, allow me to introduce you to the Hayabusa (はやぶさ) or Peregrine Falcon.This past weekend, Japan’s first new high-speed train in 14 years departed Tokyo station en route to the northern reaches of Honshu. Sporting a slick paint job of green, pink and silver, the Hayabusa will carry passengers up to Shin-Aomori at speeds of 180 mph.


By 2012 however, this upper limit will be raised to 198 mph, breaking the current domestic speed record for conventional rail travel. This is not to be confused with the newer maglev technology, which can reach an astonishing 361 mph.

Beyond standard and slightly more spacious ‘Green Car’ seats, the Hayabusa is also equipped with a brand new ‘Gran Class’ car. As a throwback to the grand old days of rail travel, Gran Class passengers can enjoy reclining leather seats, free alcoholic drinks and limited-edition bento box lunches.

One-way normal fare to Aomori costs ¥16,870 ($205), while Green Car and Gran Class seats cost ¥21,360 ($260) and ¥26,360 ($320), respectively. If you’re planning on splurging for Gran Class, book well in advance as they’re a hot commodity right now amongst Japanese rail enthusiasts.


Aomori itself is a rather non-descript industrial city with a few decent art museums and a famous morning market. But the surrounding countryside is home to world-class ski slopes, secluded onsen (hot springs) resorts and some of Japan’s best sake.

What are you waiting for? Spring is just around the corner, so layer up and head north into Japan’s famous snow country before it’s too late.

** All images are courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project **

Big in Japan: Cheating your way into university


Over the next few weeks, high school students across America are making one of the biggest decisions of their young adult lives, namely where to attend university. In Japan, the situation is no different, though this year the annual ritual has been marred by the country’s largest ever cheating scandal.

For anyone out there in high school – or anyone with less than fond memories of being in high school – the SATs can be a painful rite of passage into semi-adulthood. The Japanese version is colloquially referred to as ‘exam war,’ and necessitates sitting for grueling entrance exams at multiple universities.

With the Japanese economy in the doldrums, and the pressure to succeed higher than ever, there is certainly temptation for youngsters to cheat. This week, the prestigious Kyoto University is embroiled in a battle with a prospective student, who is accused of sending and receiving messages from an online forum during an exam.

The Japanese media is having a field day, and the stress-stricken 19-yo from northern Japan is now a national pariah.Cheating on an exam is certainly nothing new, and there have been many ingenuous methods perpetrated over the years by crafty if ill-prepared test takers. But what distinguishes this scandal from others is the use of mobile phones and internet forums in a failed attempt to game the system.

According to reports

– and a few dodgy *dramatic re-enactments* that have been appearing on Japanese television – the student hid the phone between his thighs while texting with his left hand. Exam questions were sent to an online forum where possible accomplices were waiting to text back the answers.

What surprised many was the speed and deft at which the student was able to text. In true Japanese fashion, this subsequently prompted a few television shows dedicated to scouring the streets of Tokyo for the fastest texters amongst us!

Back to the story: the student was caught after Kyoto University received an anonymous tipoff. Police traced the posts from the website through the mobile phone provider

and back to the offending student’s mother.

Kyoto University officials and police were less than lenient. Rather than simply disqualifying the student’s test results, he was subsequently held under the charge of obstructing university business by fraudulent means.

It remains to be seen what will happen next to the offender, and it’s likely that Japanese universities will need to rethink their entrance exam policies.

Moral of the story (in English and in Japanese): Winners never cheat, and cheaters never win. ずるをする人は決して勝つことがなく、勝者は決してずるをしません。

** All images are courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project **

Coming face to face with history in Hiroshima, Japan

Hiroshima.

Just saying the name can often evoke a strong emotion or reaction. When I told people I intended to visit Hiroshima on my Japan trip, the response was usually the same.

“Why would you want to visit there?” my friends asked.

“Why not?” I quipped. “The city is home to one of the most epochal events in modern history!”

Despite the admonishments and the bitter winter temperatures, I now stand before it — Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. There are no children playing, only a few tourists snapping photos nearby. The neatly manicured grounds seem to merely provide a cover for the somber history located here.

The clouds part, allowing sunlight to stream through the crumbling walls and cragged ruins of the A-Bomb Dome, regarded as one of the most recognizable remnants from World War II.

Located a mere two blocks away sits a nondescript gray and blue tile building with only three Japanese characters at the top and a small plaque on the side that reads “Hypocenter“. As we approach, we spot a group of local Japanese surrounding the plaque, deep in conversation. Not wanting to intrude, we wait quietly behind, but their guide stops talking and motions for us to approach.
Switching from Japanese to English, she exclaims, “Please join us! I will share with you about the Hypocenter.”

Almost seemingly out of nowhere emerges an older Japanese man from the group. He is well-dressed, looks to be in his early 60’s, and has the most charming and inviting smile.

He walks over to us and asks, “Where are you from?”

I stutter and stammer, finally managing to answer, “The United States.”

Much like the rest of the group, he warmly welcomes us to Hiroshima. He begins sharing interesting details, details not regurgitated from any tour guide prompt. Instantly, I realize we are reliving this horrific event through his eyes — the eyes of an atom bomb survivor. Obviously not as young as he appears, the man tells a chilling account of the events that took place on August 6, 1945.

He was just a kid living less than two miles from the hypocenter. His father and brother worked right across the small alleyway, just feet from where we now stood. After the bomb was dropped, he rushed to the hypocenter to search for them, but was met only with a sea of death and destruction. Bodies were strewn everywhere and it was impossible to find anyone or anything — including his brother and father, who, he ultimately learned, had perished in the blast.

Talking to this man was the chance to live an important piece of world history — something that no high school or college textbook could’ve ever prepared me for. His words were filled with emotion and pain, yet he never uttered a negative sentiment. Although tragic, he seemed almost accepting of those day’s events. “Ultimately,” he said, “no matter where we are from, we both have the same goal — to live in peace.”

Big in Japan: Ways to stay warm this winter


With winter continuing to rage all across the northern hemisphere, this post is devoted to quick tips for keeping warm. Of course, we’re going to throw in a special Japanese twist, especially since keeping warm here presents its own brand of unique challenges.

Japan may lead the world in technological advancements such as 3D television and automated toilets. But when it comes to properly insulated buildings, they’re sadly lacking. Winter here is often akin to urban camping, and the proper supplies are essential.

From electric blankets and propane heaters to steaming hot pots and cups of green tea, there are plenty of homegrown remedies for keeping the chill out of your bones. So, for any foreigners out there new to battling the Japanese elements, here is your queue to take good notes.

There may be only one month left to go before the cherry-blossoms signal the end of winter, but it’s never too late to get the mercury rising.While there is no shortage of steel, concrete and glass rising throughout Japan, the traditional architectural core unit is the machiya (町家), a wooden house with sliding rice paper walls and tatami floors. Granted, they’re becoming few and far between, but the basic elements are often retained, even in newer properties.

In the olden days, Japanese home-dwellers could alter the layout of their house based on the seasons. In the summer months, sliding doors could be aligned to catch the breeze, providing relief from the balmy humidity of the archipelago.

In the winter months, central heating would necessitate the stoking of the irori (いろり), a sunken hearth that provided warmth along with a steady cooking flame and roasting coals. But fires were a frequent concern. The 1923 Edo Earthquake set the old capital aflame, claiming more than 100,000 lives.

In the modern era, wall-mounted AC and heating units are the first choice of many. But a surprising reality for many foreigners arriving in Japan is that they’re anything but standard. Fret not however as without further ado, we’re about to share several ways to stay warm this winter.


Propane (Touyu, 灯油) Fears of peak oil aside, one of the easiest ways to heat Japanese dwellings is to invest in a good propane space heater. You can buy one for less than US$100 at any appliance store. Propane can also be purchased in large volumes at any gas station, with 20 liters costing about US$30.

For Westerns unaccustomed to the smell – to say the least – it takes some getting used to. But Japanese describe the warmth of burning propane as a blanket of heat. Compared to conventional heaters, it’s certainly more enveloping, and propane heats a drafty room in virtually no time at all.

Kotatsu (炬燵) A kotatsu is a combination wooden table frame and comforter that is centered on an electric heating source. With your back firmly pressed against a legless chair, you slide your feet under the blanket and draw warmth while relaxing at the tableside.


Although propane certainly has a learning curve, the culture of kotatsu is one that foreigners in Japan quickly fall in love with. The practice is made all the more endearing when accompanied by hot food, warm sake and raucous conversation that can last well into the night.

Japanese Hot Pot (Nabe, 鍋) While many Asian cultures have their own variants of hot pot, nabe consists of fresh meats and vegetables accompanied by soy sauce, cooking sake, mirin and/or rice vinegar. Every prefecture in Japan has its own signature variety, incorporating local delicacies, seasonal produce and microbrewed alcohols.


There are plenty of liquid accompaniments to nabe that also help to warm the belly. Beyond the obvious tumblers of slightly-warmed sake and room temperature ales, pots of green tea and houjicha (roasted tea) can be served alongside and/or after the meal to help increase blood circulation.

Need some other quick tips?

Convenience stores in Japan always seem to have everything you need – and plenty of stuff you think you need, but most likely don’t! Popular winter items are microwaveable heating packs, which slide under your pillow, and disposable glove warmers, which slide into the bottoms of your woolen socks.

And let’s not forget about Japan’s ubiquitous vending machines, which are technological marvels in their own right. With the ability to dispense heated cans, espresso shots, milk teas and even corn soup can be yours for as little as a handful of loose change. Even if you’re not thirsty, clinging a warm can in your hands makes waiting at the bus stop a lot easier.

So even if the weather outside is frightful, you can stay comfortable by following some of these author-tested tips. And don’t worry as spring is just around the corner – at least in this corner of the world.

** All images are either original photographs produced by this blogger or courtesy of the Wikimedia Commons Project **