Five myths about traveling in Tokyo

I’ve been wandering around Tokyo for the last week or so and its been an eye opening experience. The culture is rich, the city endless and terrifying and gray and intense. Every day I’m astonished by the differences between our societies and the way that the Japanese operate, horrified by the varieties of food that we eat and warmed by the hospitality around me.

It is an experience far from what I had predicted, I am pleased to say. Back in New York we had broad, naive expectations formed by our guidebook scouring, stories from friends and films we had seen at the theater. They’re beliefs held by many Americans, I feel, and I thought that sharing my experiences would help clear some of these ideas up. Take a look at the biggest five myths I’ve found about traveling in Tokyo:

  • You won’t be a tall monster in Tokyo. While the national height average is a little lower in Japan, tall people do exist here and are not uncommon. Unless you get on a particularly short subway car, you won’t be able to see end-to-end with your friends. Similarly, your feet shouldn’t hang off the bed by 6″ when you check into a hotel. Three out of three of my mattresses so far have been fine for me and I’m pretty tall.
  • Electronics aren’t crazy awesome and cheap. While Electric City does have a ton of electronics with a remarkable variety, much of it is the same as US equipment and the price is also on par. I was looking at an IBM x40 Thinkpad for about 250$ this week, which you can get on Ebay for about 270$. Factor in the Japanese keyboard and having to carry it all of the way back to the States, and it isn’t really worth it.
  • People won’t stop to ask for your pictures. I’ve been with two tall people (over 6’4″), a nerdy African-American lawyer and a blond girl from Long Island, and have yet to be stopped for a picture. Some schoolchildren did ask for a photo at a temple in Osaka, but it was part of their homework assignment.
  • Bowing is nice and polite, but not necessary. Japanese understand that you’re visiting and don’t necessarily subscribe to their culture so don’t expect you to bow at every transaction and conversation. This especially holds true for small things like asking for directions or buying street food.
  • You can get around with English. Subway and rail stations all have English directions so you can navigate without a guide or translator.
  • Matthew Firestone is not the genial Lonely Planet and Gadling writer that you think he is. He is a dangerous, dangerous drunk that will feed you cow intestines and steal your children.

As in any metropolis, culture steps away from the traditional, outlying areas and shifts towards a central, efficient system. Most Tokyo residents wear business suits around town, work hard and party hard into the early hours of the morning. Visit with an open mind and a warm heat and you’ll find it among the most amazing cities in the planet.

Big in Japan: Astronauts tell Japanese audience that they believe in aliens

If you’re convinced that we’re not alone in the universe, then today’s posting is for you…

Earlier this week, American astronaut Mike Foreman, a mission specialist on the space shuttle Endeavour, told a Japanese audience that he believes in aliens. According to Foreman, “If we push back boundaries far enough, I’m sure eventually we’ll find something out there…maybe not as evolved as we are, but it’s hard to believe that there is not life somewhere else in this great universe.”

Foreman returned to Earth in March after a sixteen day mission on the Endeavour, which included a Japanese astronaut in its crew. And, while the mission didn’t reveal the presence of alien life forms, Foreman isn’t alone in thinking that the universe may be a crowded place. His comments were backed up by astronaut Gregory Johnson, who stated: “I personally believe that we are going to find something that we can’t explain.”

And, as if Foreman and Johnson didn’t give a convincing enough argument, their comments were also backed up by astronaut Dominic Gorie, who added: “As we travel in space, we don’t know what we’ll find. That’s the beauty of what we do. I hope that someday we’ll find what we don’t understand.”

Do you believe? If so, keep on reading!

Since the press conference was given in Tokyo, perhaps the most convincing testimony came from Mr. Takao Doi, the Japanese astronaut on the Endeavour mission, who agreed that “life like us must exist.”

Given that Japanese Chief Cabinet Secretary Mr. Nobutaka Machimura previously stated that unidentified flying objects (UFOs) most likely exist, these comments couldn’t have come at a better time.

At a prior press conference Machimura announced that in the event that a UFO was discovered inside Japan’s sovereign airspace, fighter planes would be scrambled to confirm the nature of the object.

However, Mr. Machimura regretted to announce that the government’s response measures ended there as there were no mechanisms in place for dealing with an actual alien landing. Of course, Mr. Machimura was quick to emphasize that the Japanese government was not aware of any confirmed cases whereby a UFO was actually discovered.

But he did reiterate the urgent need to try and scientifically confirm whether or not UFOs exist because of what he called incessant reports of sightings. Although to date most UFO sightings in Japan have either been birds, planes or other easily explainable objects, Mr. Machimura was proud to announce that he believes they definitely exist.

Now, I’ve never been one to give too much lip service to wild rumors and conspiracy theories regarding the presence of extraterrestrial life. With that said, I do think that the opinions of four astronauts along with a high-ranking Japanese government official may hold a little more weight than the mad ravings of some farmer in the middle of Nebraska (no offense to farmers or to Nebraskans!).

So, on that note, I guess today’s posting brings about the simple question:

Have you ever seen an alien or a UFO? If so, care to comment?

Big in Japan: New cigarette vending machines can count your wrinkles

One of the things first-time visitors to Japan never seem to stop marveling about is the country’s futuristic vending machines. Indeed, it’s possible to get pretty much anything out of a vending machine here, from hot ramen and frozen ice cream bars to clean T-shirts and used school girl panties…

However, the retail landscape across Japan is about to change dramatically, thanks to a new type of cigarette vending machine that can actually count your wrinkles! In an effort to prevent underage smokers from illegally purchasing cigarettes, a Japanese company has developed a vending machine that can check a smoker’s age by studying the lines on their face.

Fujitaka’s new cigarette vending machines will employ an advanced facial recognition system that compares a buyer’s bone structure, skin sag, brow wrinkles and crow’s feet against a record of more than 100,000 people. If the buyer fails the visual scan, they will be required to insert their ID card into the machine in order to verify that they are of legal age to smoke.

If this new technology catches on, it looks like Botox users might have some difficulty buying cigarettes in the years to come (^_^)

The new cigarette vending machines are the latest effort to combat underage smoking in Japan. While the trend has been in steady decline over the last few years, a recent study showed that 14% of boys and 4% of girls aged 17 and 18 smoke every day.

According to company spokesman Mr. Hajime Yamamoto: “With face recognition, so long as you’ve got some change and you are an adult, you can buy cigarettes like before. The problem of minors borrowing identification cards to purchase cigarettes could be avoided as well.”

The new vending machines come at a time when tobacco companies are facing increased scrutiny from both the general public and the Japanese government.

Starting in July, companies owning cigarette vending machines can be prosecuted for the sale of tobacco to anyone under the legal age. In a country where there are more than half a million cigarette vending machines, the legal implications of this new law are severe.

The Japanese finance minister has already granted permission for all cigarette vending machines to start requesting either a smart ID card or driver’s license as a means of verifying age.

However, it is possible that facial scans may also become standardized across the country. At present, the only foreseeable problem is the so-called “grey zone for baby-faced adults,” though this could be overcome by simply asking buyers to also insert their smart card.

Regardless of where your convictions lie in the public debate over smoking, I think it’s safe to say that everyone agrees that kids shouldn’t smoke (at least I hope so!).

Besides, in an age where the quest to look forever young has become something of an obsession, you may soon be able to get confirmation of your visible youth by simply buying a pack of cigarettes!

Then again, smoking does cause irreversible aging of the skin, so perhaps it’s best to go easy on the Marlboros…

How to travel Japan without once paying for a hotel

I love hotels, especially nice ones. It’s great to know that you have a comfortable place to come home to after a full day of adventure in a foreign city. However, in Japan hotels are expensive, and if you’ve got a limited budget you can get more bang for your buck spending your money elsewhere.

I had this idea a week ago, and have been dying to write about it. But first I had to test it out firsthand to make sure that it actually works and is practical.

The one prerequisite is that you get a JR rail pass. If you come to Japan, this is an absolutely essential purchase. Basically you pay a fixed fee (just under $300 for a week or up to $570 for three weeks) for unlimited travel on all Japan Railways trains. This will take you all the way from Hokkaido in the north (where I am right now) to Fukuoka in the South. Everywhere.

The JR pass is good for travel on all of the JR trains except for sleeper trains and the fastest bullet trains, which is no big deal since the second fastest are almost as good.

However, I have found a loophole in the sleeper train rule. Certain sleeper trains have beds which are classified as seats, and can thus be used with the rail pass.

The first type is called “Nobi Nobi Carpet Cars.” They are trains full of little bunkbeds made out of wood with carpet on top, and a blanket and pillow are provided. Your taste may vary, but I’ve found sleeping in these cars very comfortable.

The second type is called “Goron to Shito.” I don’t know exactly what that means, but basically you get a bunkbed with a mattress, but no pillow or blanket. These are a bit more comfortable that the Nobi Nobi.

There are also overnight trains without beds. These aren’t nearly as comfortable as the bunk beds, but the seats usually recline way back. I’ve slept in one for the past two nights and have had no problems getting a solid night’s sleep.

One important point, which I’ve learned the hard way, is that the beds-classified-as-seats can fill up quickly, so it’s best to book them as far in advance as possible. During peak season that can be a few days. In the off season you can get them hours before they leave.

These sleeper trains are very slow, which means that where they end up is almost irrelevant. You can take a Shinkansen bullet train back to wherever you want to go that day.

Whether or not the train has a shower seems to be random, but they all have bathrooms and sink areas to brush your teeth. If yours does have a shower, use it. They’re really cool and it’s fun to shower in a moving train.

If not, look for an onsen. These are public baths fed by natural hot springs. You’ll never feel more clean or relaxed after visiting one, and they’re a great part of Japanese culture to enjoy. They range in cost from a few dollars for a small one tub onsen to more that twenty dollars for a more elaborate one.

Japan-Guide has a great overview of the night trains which is a pretty complete list of the loophole cars. I found at least one not listed that was also a nobi nobi.

Tokyo’s Grand Sumo Tournament kicks off

The Nihon Sumo Kyokai Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament kicked off in Japan this past Sunday, beginning two action packed weeks of Sumo excitement. Naturally, Gadling had room in the travel budget to send a couple of bloggers, so we captured some video from the first round of matches.

If you’ve never seen real Sumo wrestling in action, it’s a pretty fantastic spectacle, complete with everything from traditional salt throwing and the closing bow dance to all of the white people in the only concession stand line that serves hot dogs and popcorn.

The concept is simple: the first man to push the other outside of the ring or (sometimes) off of his feet is the winner. But the delicacies of the game, the tradition surrounding the event, the excitement of the crowd, the roaming wrestlers in the hall and the energy surrounding the entire building are amazing.

If you’re ever on holiday in Japan and considered looking into tickets, best pony up the fifty bucks for the cheap upper ring seats — it’s totally worth it.