Finding the Holy Spirit in Baja: Darwin would be proud

Imagine an uninhabited island with clear bays of turquoise water edged with rocky cliffs. Sea turtles, blue-footed boobies, and sea lions make their home on its shores. The surrounding waters contain giant manta ray, shark, dolphin, orca, and the mighty pacific gray whale. This island boasts one of the most biologically diverse bodies of water in the world, so you might think we’re describing the famed Galapagos. We’re in Baja Mexico, the island of Espiritu Santo to be exact.

The cockpit of a kayak is the best place from which to view the island. Paddling the shores allows you to experience the water and take in the beauty of the landscape. I trolled for jack and bonita while paddling and even caught dinner for my camp one night. There are several operators on the island, but be sure to go with a trusted tour provider. For example, Boundless Journeys provides week-long all-inclusive trips (under $2,000) to the island and practices leave-no-trace camping ethics.

To see the unique desert landscape of Espiritu Santo strap on a pair of boots or sturdy sandals and explore the dirt paths criss-crossing the rocky landscape. After a rain the dry island transforms into a colorful wonderland of flowers and plants. Summer temperatures can easily skyrocket into the 90s and sunscreen as well as frequent shaded breaks are mandatory. While on a guided hike of the island our group found shelter in one of the caves naturally carved into the cliff line. Self-guided hikes are fine for experienced hikers but a guide is recommended for those unfamiliar with desert hiking.

Setting up camp in one of the natural bays provides a perfect base of operations. From a base camp a panga (small motorized boat) can be used to reach remote areas of the island. A base camp also eliminates the need to trek across choppy water back and forth to the mainland each day. Most pangas are equipped to carry kayaks and can drop paddlers in bays that offer easy paddling as well as mysterious mangrove swamps. The twisted limbs and roots of the mangroves are home to many of the islands bird species such as the long-necked snowy egrets and blue herons.

Although paddling and hiking are two of the most popular activities on the island, wildlife viewing is why most come. Throngs of tourists flood the shores each year to spot the many species that call them home. The playful sea lions on the north shore are a huge draw, as are the wide variety of bird species. The blue-footed booby is one of the most sought after. February and March are the best time to catch mighty gray whales as they spend their winter in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez.

The closest city to Espiritu Santo is La Paz. The calm waters in the bay where La Paz sprouted create a protective harbor for ships. Although small, the airport has daily flights from Mexico City and Guadalajara to accommodate tourists. Visiting La Paz during the Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, provides an opportunity to experience one of the world’s most unique festivals. Giant skeletal statues, faces painted like skulls, and dioramas depicting tiny skeletons enjoying daily activities are just a few of the ways locals celebrate their ancestors.

After a week of paddling the mangroves and experiencing the diverse mix of bird and sea life, I couldn’t help but wonder how long it might take the Mexican government to get a good grasp on the difficult task of enforcing the rules they’ve set forth on Espiritu Santo.

Locals cash in on the abundant fish populations surrounding the island and are finding employment as guides, camp cooks, and panga drivers. For now, the island seems to be maintaining it’s extraordinary biodiversity while simultaneously providing income for locals and enjoyment for tourists, but this is a delicate balancing act indeed.

Ten outdoor destinations with everything!

Who says you can’t have it all? For many travelers vacation time is limited. Those in search of adventure want to maximize that short window of travel time. Here are ten cities where adventure-seekers can expand their options with a range of heart-pounding choices.

Buena Vista, Colorado
Buena Vista translates to “beautiful view.” It’s easy to understand why the name stuck. Nestled into the central Colorado highlands, this Colorado town just might be the hidden adventure gem of the Rockies. Peak-baggers have twenty 14ers within roughly an hour-and-a-half drive from Buena Vista, making it a perfect base camp for high-altitude hiking. Ski Cooper, Monarch and Aspen are all close by for a winter sports fix and the class III-V Arkansas River provides thrilling whitewater rafting all summer long.

Cape Town, South Africa
South Africa is considered by many to be the adrenaline capital of the world. Cape Town has no shortage of blood-pumping options. Traditional sports like sea kayaking and mountain biking are epic here, but there’s also more unique endeavors like sand boarding. If that’s still not enough to get adrenaline junkies excited, there’s always the shark cage diving experience.
Vancouver, Canada
Adventure pursuits like sailing and kayaking are synonymous with this famous Canadian coastal city. Of course, skiing is the main draw in Vancouver, a fact reinforced by the city’s selection as host of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One visit to Whistler Blackcomb, among the top ranked snow resorts in North America, and the powder crazed will fall in love.

Quito, Ecuador

I was on the summit of a 15,763 foot active volcano within four hours of leaving my hotel in Ecuador’s capital city, Quito. This short trek with dizzying altitude is but one of the quick fixes found in this city of less than two million. Rural Ecuador is still developing its adventure sports attitude, but when using Quito as a starting point guides can be found easily. Cotopaxi, one of the world’s most perfectly shaped volcanoes, is only a two hour drive from town. Cycling and mountain biking have seen a huge boom in recent years and bike rental companies are eager to take visitors on epic rides through the Andes for up to two weeks in length.

Bar Harbor, Maine
In Summer, the population of this quaint Maine fishing village swells from around 5,000 inhabitants to 18,000, and for good reason. Surrounded by paddling and sailing opportunities, those making their way into the area’s bays can not only watch whales and seals but can spot a variety of stunning bird species such as Bald Eagles and Puffins. During my stay I found that land based options are equally as spectacular with Acadia National Park sitting just out the back door. Hiking provides views of the channels and bays while the park’s abundant exposed rock opens up endless climbing opportunities. There is even a climbing school in the city for those uninitiated to the sport.

Castries, St. Lucia
Once travelers work their way past the cruise ships and trinket shops, a world of adventure awaits in Castries, the capital city of St. Lucia. Professional mountain biker Tinker Juarez designed a trail system specifically for the Anse Chastanet Resort. Beginner, intermediate, and expert single track trails wind their way through former plantations and lush jungle vegetation. Diving and snorkeling opportunities abound along St. Lucia’s shore. More experienced divers will find wreck diving just off the coast. This Caribbean island is even home to a diving shop named Scuba Steves. What more could a beach bum want?

La Paz, Bolivia
Trek along ancient Inca trails, raft the class II-IV rapids or the Rio Tuichi, or take on the world’s highest ski resort Chacaltaya. If that’s not enough adrenaline, mountain bike the Death Road, reported to be the most dangerous mountain bike ride in the world.

Auckland, New Zealand
Auckland boasts average highs between 59 and 75 degrees year round. The mild temperatures make for an ideal adventure sports hub. Rappel into massive caverns with Waitomo Cave Adventures to explore the underworld of New Zealand. You will need at least two weeks to take in all the adventure Auckland has to offer. Surfing, horse trekking, sailing, and magnificent hiking can all be found near this city in the “Land of the Hobbits.”

Bend, Oregon
With a beautiful trout stream rippling through town and ski slopes just up the road at Mount Bachelor, Bend accommodates Winter and Summer visitors alike. I found a trail run around Todd Lake that was the perfect way to take in a pristine alpine setting. Backpack the 40-mile Three Sisters Loop and enjoy jaw-dropping views of these triplet peaks.

Chamonix, France

France’s Chamonix has long been known as the site of world-renowned ski resorts and awe-inspiring vistas of the Alps. But these days, the French city is also home to an “air park” where brave visitors can paraglide from just below snowy summits and soar above green pasture. For those who prefer their adventures a bit closer to the ground, there’s the Via Ferrata course. Via Ferrata takes rock climbing to the masses with metal steps and small ledges for climbers to use, all while clipped in to a secure cable system.

Having your cake and eating it too was never so easy. Any of these world-class destinations should be a crowd-pleaser for even the most ambitious adventure travelers.

Drug tourism and cocaine bars

What fun is travel without a little excitement? Rest and relaxation is a given, but excitement? That you have to look for, and it appears excitement for many is found in drugs.

I came across an article yesterday that made me cringe. The world’s first cocaine bar, it read. And while I have to admit it picqued my interest, I must also say the thought of sitting in a bar with nearly everyone high on cocaine scares me — beyond belief. I wonder, though, whether this cocaine bar in La Paz, Bolivia is on to something. There are heaps of traveling hedonists, eager for a new high, and while I don’t find that high in drugs, I’m almost positive many travelers in Latin America — and all over the world, for that matter — do.

If you think about it, drug tourism has been around for decades. It was no secret that drugs came easy at Studio 54, and it wasn’t really a surprise to me when I heard recently of Kokie’s, a bar in Manhattan that sold cocaine on the down low. I guess the name gave Kokie’s away, because it’s now closed.

And cocaine’s not the only thing people travel for in the world. Consider all the cheap prescription drugs you can get in Tijuana. I even took advantage of that and bought a bottle of Cipro. Or what about the opium dens in Laos. There were all kinds of “special” pizzas on the menu in Vang Vieng. In a lot of ways, drugs and travel mix perfectly, and in a lot of ways, it’s not wrong to mix them unless you’re over-using and forgetting about reality — or not even bothering to understand the place you’re in.

Nevertheless, could this cocaine bar in La Paz be a sign of the times, and will drugs be the new draw for certain destinations abroad? Only time will tell…

Strange New Year’s traditions around the world

Unlike many holidays, where celebrants are bound by tradition or religion, New Year’s is a holiday that allows each individual to choose his own method of celebration. Some revelers will soak themselves in alcohol, boozing it up with copious bottles of champagne. Others choose to make the evening a quieter affair, settling in for a movie and an early night in bed.

However you personally choose to celebrate New Year’s 2009, people around the world certainly have some wacky ways that they choose to bring in their new year. MSNBC is reporting on some of the more interesting customs. Here’s a look at a few of the more curious:

  • South America – in countries like Brazil and Bolivia, it’s what’s inside that counts. Residents in cities such as Sao Paulo and La Paz ring in the New Year by donning brightly colored underpants. Those who choose red are hoping for an amorous year ahead, those with yellow wish for money. I guess this begs the question of how you tell who is wearing what color underwear. Perhaps that is best left unanswered…
  • Denmark – as if the effects of plentiful New Year’s alcohol were not disorienting enough, many Danish revelers leap off chairs at the stroke of midnight, hoping to banish bad spirits in the year ahead.
  • Philippines – New Year’s celebrations in places like Manila tend to be circular; Filipinos focus on all things round, consuming “round” fruits such as grapes and wearing clothing with round shapes like polka dots. The spherical theme is meant to remind celebrants of the “round” shape of coins and prosperity.
  • Spain – at the stroke of 12, Spaniards begin to consume 12 grapes, attempting to eat the whole bunch by the time the clock stops chiming.
  • Belarus – the new year in Belarus is all about getting hitched. Unmarried women compete at games of skill and chance to determine who will tie the knot in the coming months. One game involves setting piles of corn and a rooster before the potential brides-to-be – whichever pile the bird chooses apparently picks the lucky lady.

You can check out the full list of weird New Year’s traditions here.

Amazing Race 13, episode 3: La Paz, Bolivia, where a taxi can make or break you

The competition is heating up on the Amazing Race. Season13 has hit its stride. When the teams landed in La Paz, Bolivia, each team sped or wobbled along depending upon their ability to deal with the altitude.

Although most teams seem to be trying to win the race by just doing their best without creating drama between them, Starr has decided she doesn’t like Kelly and Christy and is out to do them in. The divorcees aren’t too thrilled with her either. I think it’s because the three of them all look alike.

Although, perhaps Starr really didn’t push Christy’s sports bra off a window ledge. Perhaps, she did. Whatever. The sports bra incident created drama that darted in and out this episode. Whenever the focus was off these three vixens, I was a happier viewer and enjoyed the other people’s company.

Travel Tips from this episode:

  • When traveling at a high altitude, breathe deeply, not quickly.
  • Keeping your mood light and being friendly can entice local people to help you out.
  • Walk in La Paz when the distance you want to go is not that far. It’s faster.
  • Read directions carefully. It can save you a lot of trouble and heartache.
  • If the person you are with is having a hard time breathing, be supportive and don’t bitch. You’ll have a better time and your traveling companion won’t talk badly about you.

Recap and Cultural Highlights:

The initial shots of La Paz were magnificent. The blue skies and mountains showed off the beauty of the city’s surroundings. Once the teams landed they were in the dark, literally and figuratively. All headed to the statue of Simon Bolivar for their next clue. The right after midnight departure time was more to my liking than last week’s 4 a.m. start.

Because the clue wouldn’t come until daylight, each person was handed a wonderful Bolivian blanket from a female vendor wearing a signature Cholita hat. The blankets helped pad the hard sidewalk where the team members staked out a space for a bit of shut eye before the morning newspaper arrived. In its pages was the next clue.

During this segment, I wondered what the Bolivians thought of this rag tag group of Americans sleeping on the plaza as if they were homeless.

As soon as the newspapers arrived, there was a flurry and group pounce to snag one. As normal, some of the teams immediately spotted the ad that directed them to their next destination. Southern Belles Marissa and Brooke were not in this group and appeared more and more worried as they were left behind, still searching.

The ad, specific to the race, directed the teams to Narvaez Hat Shop near Plaza Murillo. There they were to buy a cholita hat to take along with them. The blankets were left behind.

I would have had a hard time leaving such a souvenir, but oh, well for the chance of a million dollars, there’s more blankets where they came from.

The next leg of the race was a lesson in transportation woes. Teams that walked got to the shop faster than those that took a taxi. Keep that in mind if you’re in La Paz.. Taxis are not always the fastest way to travel. Ask a local what he or she would recommend. Knowing Spanish helped.

At the hat shop, the teams received the next clues with the Road Block choices: “Musical March” or “Bumpy Ride.” In Musical March, the teams were to walk between two plazas to gather musicians at each location in order to form a band with a range of instruments.

In Bumpy Ride, teams were to walk to Mercado de las Brujas, pick up locally made bicycles made almost entirely of wood–including wheels, one for each person, and ride them down the hills of the cobblestone streets and through a tunnel to the next clue.

Each of the tasks ended at Plaza Abaroa. With these two tasks, the action picked up, and it became clear how the teams’ different choices and the ability to deal with Bolivia’s altitude could influence their outcome.

Mark & Bill, who normally do so well with written information, didn’t read their clue carefully enough and missed the edict that they were to head to the bicycles on foot. As soon as they hopped in a taxi, pleased as punch with themselves, I felt bad. I like these two.

Sarah and Terrence also hopped in a taxi but, immediately felt that something was wrong. They reread their clue, noticed their mistake, and went back to the hat shop location to hoof it. This pair, a focal point of last week, were having smooth sailing except for the snafu with the taxi so they didn’t have much camera time. Maybe Terrence has stopped whining.

Only two teams picked the Musical March. Marissa and Brooke loved the experience, laughing and clapping the whole way. Again, these two seem unflappable. Their band played a fairly lively tune keeping up the pace.

In contrast, frat boys Andrew & Dan were morose. It wasn’t like they were on a death march exactly, but their lack of fun didn’t encourage the band members to step it up much. Their band plodded along the streets, playing their instruments in a tired sort of way, perhaps wondering how they got stuck with such complainers.

The bicycle riders had a more challenging time of it. The best parts were the funky hats and gloves the team members put on for protection. They were similar to what I imagine the Bird Man of Alcatraz might like to wear.

Here, two distinct team personalities emerged. Those who bitched at each other, and those who helped each other out. Ty was annoyed at Aja because she wasn’t quite fast enough for him and Dallas began to get annoyed with his mom for being slow until she reminded him she wasn’t going slow on purpose. The altitude can be a real downer. Aja woefully said that she hadn’t seen this part of Ty’s competitive side before.

The bicycles weren’t a match for the cobblestones and there were a couple of nasty spills. About the time Christy took a fall, Starr hoped that Ty and Aja would U-Turn the divorcees. All decided there wasn’t a point of U-turns quite yet, although Aja was happy to tell Christy later that Starr was out to get her. I’m thinking that they’ve been watching Survivor and are missing out on the fun of Bolivia. Also, it would have been in poor form, I think, to U-Turn someone who is lying on the sidewalk and probably skinned a bit.

Once the teams reached Plaza Abaroa, off they headed, this time by taxi to Los Titanes del Ring where one of the team members learned to wrestle cholita-style. I loved this part. First though, the taxi ride there was a stress producer. Depending on bum luck, some teams were stuck, barely moving, while others had drivers who found more direct ways. Poor Mark & Bill, still unaware of their earlier mistake, were in a taxi that needed to stop for gas.

Donning traditional wrestling suits, after handing a cholita wrestler the bowler hat, each member learned a wresting routine with six moves. Each move had to be done correctly and in the wrestling ring with a real cholita in front of a real audience. If a mistake was made, back to training before being able to try again.

These are the types of tasks I like the best. They highlight part of the culture with depth and give the contestants a chance to interact with people in a more authentic way. I’m sure the Bolivians who were part of this segment are still talking about it.

Although Ken took to wrestling a woman like a pro, his cape flashing as he slingshot himself off the ropes, landed on his back, flipped over the woman he was wrestling, landed on top of her, and eventually raised his arms and hands above his head in triumph, poor Mark had a time of it. Eventually, the hard work did Mark in for awhile. After screwing up the routine twice, he had to breathe in oxygen from a tank before his third attempt. Luckily, third time was a charm.

At this point, I’m enjoying Tina, Marissa, Bill and Toni the best. As spectators of the cholita wrestling matches, they’re enjoying everyone else’s experience as much as they are enjoying their own–a real bonus when it comes to being the perfect traveling companions.

Because Tina & Ken once again kicked it to the finish first. As they stepped on the Pit Stop mat at el Mirador del Monticulo, a park with a view of La Paz, they hugged and kissed as if all is forgiven in their troubled marriage. Maybe the trick to doing well in the Amazing Race is to have a personal history to work through.

The saddest moment in this segment was when Mark & Bill arrived at the Pit Stop to find out that they had a 30 minute penalty because they took a taxi way back when they should have walked. Because they came in 8th, it wasn’t hard for Christy and Kelly to show up before the 30 minutes were up. To Christy and Kelly’s credit, although they were thrilled to find out they were still in the race, they did look dismayed that their win was because of Mark & Bill’s loss.

What Ken & Tina won:

A seven day trip to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

Word of travel wisdom from Bill & Mark:

When your traveling, pick a person who you enjoy. As Mark said, “Bill’s one of my best friends. I couldn’t have picked a better person.