24 Hours in Rio De Janeiro: The City Maravilhosa

It’s hard turning your back on a city as amazing as Rio de Janeiro, but circumstances, schedules and work sometimes can’t be avoided and you have to make the best with what little you have. A layover, wedding or funeral might leave one with only a free day in the city, far too brief a period to soak in the beautiful landscape, people and culture, but that’s no excuse to not sneak in for a shred of excitement and a swim in Ipanema.

So grab a day pack, your camera and a bottle of sunscreen – it’s going to be a busy day.

Getting cash and into the city is the first challenge. At Galeão – Antônio Carlos Jobim International Airport, ATMs are mostly unmarked and located on the third floor, far above international arrivals. Heading to the end of the hall (as you look inward, to the left,) several international banks have cash machines – just check to see if they subscribe to the VISA or MasterCard before you dip your card, otherwise nothing will work.

The least expensive way to get into the city is via the Real bus, a lumbering, infrequent behemoth that pitches through the suburbs and slowly into the downtown area. It will only cost about $3.50USD ($3.50USD = R$7) and can be found on the international arrivals floor, but it can also take a frustratingly long time to reach the city, so for those on a tight schedule it’s best to take an airport taxi. Grab a yellow cab with a blue stripe and ask for the meter to make sure you get a good rate – it should cost about $25USD to get into Copacabana or Ipanema.
With only one night in the city, it’s important to stay near the activity, so a hostel or hotel in the above beach towns are highly recommended. Ipanema has the reputation of being slightly ritzier, cleaner and more expensive, and one can find a hotel or hostel in the area for $50 and $25 respectively.

After you’ve settled into your lodgings, it’s time to head out into the city. Stay tuned later this week for a tour through some of the best hot spots in Rio de Janeiro.

Galley Gossip: Seattle – it’s all about kids, trains and food!

THE TRIP:

  • DAY 1: New York – Seattle
  • DAY 2: /
  • DAY 3: Seattle – New York
  • As soon as I saw that long Seattle layover on the bid sheet, I knew I had to have it. I can’t even remember the last time I had a whole day anywhere, let alone a layover with enough time to eat, sleep AND shower! This layover, I knew, would be like the good old days when flying was fun, which is why, I’m sure, several of my colleagues laughed when I told them I had bid for it.

    “You’re going to need at least twenty years seniority to hold that!” three different flight attendants informed me.

    Undeterred, and with only fourteen years at the airline, I bid for it anyway. Not only did I hold it, I held the princess position – coach aisle! As soon as bids were finalized I sent out a tweet to announce the big news. Two seconds later someone tweeted back, “Want to meet for breakfast?”

    The invitation came from mommy blogger extraordinaire, Debbie, of Deliciousbaby.com. If you have kids and love to travel, but would rather skip the Disney vacation, do yourself a favor and check out her blog. She makes traveling with kids enjoyable and easy.

    And that’s how the layover began. I met Debbie, as well as two of her three adorable kids, for breakfast at Belle Epicurean, a charming spot known for their freshly baked pastries and buns. As I sat outside waiting for Debbie to arrive, I couldn’t help but notice all the people popping in and out before heading off to work. Not that I was surprised, considering I’d done a little research early that morning and knew the place was going to be great. I also knew exactly what to order – a potato rosemary brioche bun ($3.89). It did not disappoint. Of course the coffee was fantastic, as well. The company, even better!

    Everest, a bright four year-old, has a passion for trains, so he could not hide his excitement when I asked about his favorite thing to do in Seattle. If not for him, I wouldn’t have known about the ride on the rail to Sea-Tac airport starting in December. After Everest told me all about the underground train system, he offered to take me on a little tour…

    After the train tour, we made a quick stop at Daiso, a Japanese dollar store, where I could have spent the entire day just staring at everything inside the store. There was so much to look at! Thank goodness Everest was there to help pick out a few items for my three year-old son, because I was quite overwhelmed. And I had no idea that mini soy sauce bottles could make a good toy. But Everest assured me they would. Guess what, he was right! My son not only loved the tiny squirt bottles, he spent half an hour playing with them – along with everything else that somehow, I don’t know how, ended up in my basket….

  • Bento box (for school lunches)
  • Glow in the dark bracelets
  • Animal / number stickers (for our long flight to Hawaii next week)
  • Kids apron (to protect clothing while cooking and painting)
  • Fire truck spoon and police car fork
  • plastic cups (to make Play-Doh cupcakes)
  • Star cutter (to make pancakes and eggs a little more exciting)
  • Because Everest had to get going to space camp later on in the afternoon, we said our goodbyes and I walked down to Pikes Place Market. You can not visit Seattle without visiting the market and grabbing a cup of clam chowder, which is exactly what I did after wandering around and taking in the hustle and bustle on the waterfront. If you’re looking for something else to do, try jumping on the ferry to Bainbridge Island. I highly recommend the 35 minute scenic ferry ride. Just don’t forget your camera. You’ll want to photograph all that beauty surrounding you.

    In case you can’t tell, travel, for me, is all about finding great places to eat. When I mentioned on Facebook I’d be laying over in Seattle, Flo, a flight attendant on my crew, reminded me that Bob, the singing pilot, had recommended the restaurant Black Bottle a few months ago. We decided to check it out.

    Now Bob isn’t like most pilots, he’s got style. I’m not just talking about his layover outfit. Which is why I knew I wouldn’t end up at a sports bar, like so many pilots do. That said, I was a bit shocked to find that not only does Bob have great taste in food (at affordable prices) he appreciates a cool modern vibe. The food is served family style. Flo and I shared bacon lemon scallops and frizzled kale ($12), roasted vegetables verjus ($9), and fresh arugula, tomato, and pesto flatbread ($8). After that amazing meal, it is I, not just Bob, who highly recommends the Black Bottle next time you’re in Seattle.

    Like all good things, the layover came to an end, and before I knew it we were flying back to New York. I can’t wait to bid for the trip again! Maybe, just maybe, I’ll actually hold it – 20 years seniority or not.

    Black Bottle photo courtesy of Bacon Sandwich

    Michigan travel: Great destinations for a good cause

    With Michigan’s economic news sounding about as grim as economic news can sound, Sarah Aldrich has written an ode to seven of Michigan’s small towns. Her recent post at Intelligent Travel captures the essence of each of the towns she adores. Reading Adrich’s missive reminded me of various friends of mine who have vacationed on Michigan’s shores. Everyone of them came back with stories about a wonderful time.

    Although Aldrich was “reluctant to share” details about each of the towns she loves for fear that they might become overrun if they became too popular, she decided that Michigan might need a morale boost more than her need to keep these destinations just as they are. Tourist dollars talk. In a way, going to Michigan is do good travel. Your presence at an attraction, an eatery or a hotel puts dollars where they’re needed.

    I’ve spent a few tourist dollars in Michigan myself. I’d recommend Greenfield Village and the adjacent Henry Ford Museum to anyone. Both are top notch attractions and well worth whatever money you have to spend. Staying in a hotel in Dearfield easily fits into a budget vacation.

    If small towns aren’t appealing, another friend of mine just returned from Detroit and was pleasantly surprised by his experience and what the city had to offer. Even if you are only in Detroit for a few hours on a layover, consider taking a foray outside the airport to take in a smidgen of Michigan’s offerings. Grant has suggestions for what you might do and how to do it..

    The message is: “Go to Michigan. The state needs you.” Aldrich would be ever so pleased if you did.

    [The photo by daBinsi is of the Point Bessie Lighthouse in Frankfort, Michigan.]

    Layover: Seattle

    Despite being the largest airport in the Pacific Northwest and serving as the hub for Alaska Airlines,(and its subsidiary, Horizon Air) Seattle’s Sea-Tac Airport is surprisingly easy to navigate. Airport Revenue News honored it with the Best Overall Concessions award, and it does offer some great restaurants and shopping to keep you busy on a short layover.

    If your plane isn’t delayed on arrival (as is often the case due to heavy cloud cover) and you have a longer layover, you can hop a 30-minute bus from the airport to downtown and spend your time exploring the “Emerald City”. You can even store your carry-on luggage at the airport.

    Short Layover (2 hours)
    You’re pretty much confined to the airport with a short layover, but that doesn’t mean you’re limited to spending your time face-down in a mug of beer at the airport bar…unless of course you want to be. If that’s the case, there are choices in every concourse, from beer at the Seattle Taproom to wine at Vintage Washington to margaritas at Case del Agave. You’ve got plenty of options for food too – full-service, casual, or to-go. Anthony’s Restaurant and Ivar’s Seafood Bar, downtown Seattle favorites, both have outposts at the airport and local celebrity chef Kathy Casey offers fresh-made sandwiches and salads with local ingredients at Dish D’Lish.

    If shopping is more your thing, there are a few stores worth checking out. In addition to browsing the standard Borders Books and Hudson News, you can wander over to the Made in Washington store for last-minute Seattle souvenirs and Pacific Northwest food products or pop into Discovery Channel to play with educational games and toys.

    Got work to do? Charge your cell phone for $3, or get online for $7.95 (for a 24-hour pass). If you’re too stressed out, you can relax with a massage, manicure or pedicure for very reasonable rates.

    Longer layovers (4 or more hours)
    With a little more time, you can spend your layover in downtown Seattle. The express bus, #194, departs from the airport every 15 minutes or so and takes about half an hour to reach downtown. If your layover is on the short end, it’s best to stick close to the bus stop and limit your exploration to a stroll through Pike Place Market, but if you have more time, you can see most of the major sites in the city in one afternoon. Here are some of the highlights.

    Pike Place Market
    Combine lunch and sight-seeing with a visit to Pike Place Market. This hundred-year old farmer’s market sells plentiful fresh produce and cheap, colorful flower arrangements, but there’s so much more to it than that. In a matter of minutes you’ll pass by countless stalls of fruit and vegetables, handmade jewelry, organic soaps, local honey, and fresh seafood. And that’s just in the main market. Wander down to the arcade and you’ll see antiques, comics, and magic supplies, and across the street you’ll find an olive-oil boutique, jerky shop, a Piroshky seller, wine shop, French bakery, truffle cafe, crumpet shop, and cheese-maker. The Market is also home to the original Starbucks and the Pike Place Fish Market, where the fishmongers famously throw fish around whenever an order is placed.

    Pioneer Square
    The oldest part of Seattle, Pioneer Square is an historic district with lots of art galleries, and plenty of vagrants. The square is part of the downtown “Ride Free” zone where buses are free, and it’s just a short ride from the rest of downtown. The big attractions here are the Smith Tower (which is much shorter than the Space Needle, but costs less and provides a different view), and the Underground Tour, a fascinating hour-long tour of the city-beneath-the-city. When the majority of Seattle was burned in 1889, a new city was built of stone and brick on top. The tour, which nearly always sells out in high-season, takes visitors underground and gives them a unique look at Seattle history.

    Waterfront
    Seattle’s waterfront is admittedly kitschy. It’s from here that sightseeing cruises depart and there are always tons of tourists milling about, coming and going from the Aquarium and Waterfront Arcade, and browsing in souvenir shops. But the views of Puget Sound really are something to see, and there are some great restaurants scattered further north towards Pier 70 (which was the pier the Real World kids lived on way back when and now houses the Waterfront Seafood Grill). A trolley runs the length of the waterfront, up to the new Olympic Sculpture Park.

    Monorail, Seattle Center, and Space Needle
    From downtown, you can take a bus or the waterfront trolley (or even walk about 20 minutes) to the Seattle Center, but for a more memorable ride, try the Monorail. The Monorail was built for the 1962 World’s Fair and, when it’s not being repaired after another crash or break-down, it ferries passengers on a 1-mile ride from Westlake Mall to the Center. The Seattle Center, the downtown area’s main park, is home to the Pacific Northwest Ballet, several theaters, the Children’s Museum, Pacific Science Center, and the Space Needle. To see the 360-degree views of Seattle, Puget Sound and its islands, the Olympic Mountains, and Lake Union, you’ll need to pay $16 for adults. But if you have the time and money, you can enjoy a meal in the revolving restaurant, Sky City. Like most observation-deck dining establishments, it’s expensive and the food is just a touch above average, but the views are spectacular.

    Layover: Los Angeles, CA (Hermosa Beach)

    I live in Los Angeles and yesterday my 15 year-old cousin flew into town from New York with a group of fourteen 15 year-olds who had, oh….about 10 hours before their Qantas flight to Australia departed. Believe it or not, It isn’t all that unusual for travelers heading overseas to have that much time in-between flights. Constantly I meet people aboard the airplane flying into LAX with hours and hours of sit time on their hands.

    “So…what are you going to do before your next flight departs?” I often times ask.

    Most of the time people have no idea what they’re going to do, which is why they always ask me, the flight attendant, for a few suggestions. I’m going to tell you what I always tell them…

    THREE HOURS OR LESS – If your sit time at the airport is less than three hours, sit tight. You don’t want to miss your flight. Anyway, there’s plenty of things to do at the airport. But if you do find yourself hungry and can’t find anything to eat where you are, take a walk over to the Tom Bradley International Terminal where you’ll find a few sit down restaurants outside of security. Or you can go down to baggage claim, walk outside and grab a complimentary shuttle to the Parking Spot, which is located right next to In-n-out Burger. That’s where you’ll find the best burger in town. Try ordering it “animal style.”

    FOUR HOURS OR MORE – If you’ve got four hours or more of sit time in Los Angeles at LAX, why not make a mini vacation before your vacation officially begins by visiting Hermosa Beach? Hermosa Beach is where you’ll find the typical Southern California layed back experience. Just a fifteen minute cab ride from the airport, it shouldn’t cost you more than $30 (with tip). Make sure to check the big bags, don’t forget to pack your bathing suit in your carry on, and get ready to soak up the sun!

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    TAXI! If you want to sound like a local tell the driver to take Sepulveda (Sah-pull-vah-dah) to Pier Avenue and drop you off at the bottom of the hill. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see all the cute boutiques, sidewalk cafes, and that beautiful blue ocean surrounded by white sand. When you’re ready to head back to the airport (give yourself an hour just to be safe), you can catch a cab on Hermosa Avenue across the street from Paisano’s Pizza and Pasta

    THE STRAND – The Strand is a 22 mile (wide) sidewalk that stretches along the beach and extends from Malibu to Palos Verdes. Rent a bike at the Hermosa Beach Cyclery or take a leisurely walk. Either way you’ll enjoy seeing beautiful people and homes along the way. You can even stop to watch a game of volleyball. Make sure to bring along your camera because the sunsets are spectacular.

    THE BEACH – Last month Maxim rated Hermosa Beach 6th in the “top 10 beaches in America”, in 2004 Readers Digest rated Hermosa beach as the best beach in the United States, and Sports Illustrated referred to Hermosa Beach as the beach volleyball capital of the world. Flying through on a Sunday? You don’t want to miss the drum circle that meets beside the pier on the sand every third Sunday of the month from noon until 3pm. Don’t have a drum? No worries. There are plenty of instruments lying around if you’re so inclined to join in. Public restrooms and an outdoor shower are located near the pier.

    GOOD CHEAP EATS – There are too many wonderful places in Hermosa to list here, but if you’ll be in Los Angeles on a Tuesday you’re in luck because that’s Taco Tuesday at Sharkeez and Two-timin’ Tuesday at Hennesy’s where you’ll enjoy a two for one burger special on a rooftop deck overlooking the ocean. Here are a few other restaurants I recommend…

    • Good Stuff -The food is just that – good stuff. Not to mention the beach side tables paired with the delicious tortilla soup are hard to beat. Kids eat free evenings. Located on the strand next to the Hermosa Beach House Hotel .
    • El Gringo – Got a hankering for fish tacos served with chips and salsa and a Negra Modelo? Then make sure to grab a table on the rooftop deck. Located on Hermosa Ave, so face the water, turn right, and start walking until you hit 26th Street – about a 15-20 minute walk – take a right on 26th and look for the big yellow building.
    • Fat Face Fenner’s – A great place to go if you’re craving greasy fried food, a cup of chowder, a fish sandwich or a beer. Located on the pier.
    • Martha’s 22nd Street Grill – This is THE PLACE to go for breakfast. I always take my out of town guests here to get that California feel. While I’m not a vegetarian, I always order the tofu scramble served with brown rice while my husband usually orders the Greek omelet. It’s a bit of a walk, but if you face the water, turn to your right, and start walking for approximately 10-15 minutes you’ll find it.
    • Paisano’s – If you’re craving a slice of pizza, this is, by far, the best place to go, especially if you’re from New York. My husband, a Brooklyn boy, won’t order from anywhere else. Located on Hermosa Avenue
    • Paradise Sushi – It’s a dive, but a lot of fun, and the sushi is 50% off on Mondays. Located on the pier.
    • Scotty’s on the Strand – Got kids? Looking for cheap, casual, dining on the beach where kids can be..well…kids? This is the place. Don’t forget to check out the nightly sunset specials. Located on the strand.
    • The World Famous Spot – If you’re a vegetarian this is the place for you. Try the Dear George, a tofu dish served with brown rice, steamed veggies, and served with an amazing savory sauce. It’s a 10-15 minute stroll from the pier, so face the water, turn left, and start walking until you hit 2nd Street, turn left and you’ll run right into it.

    Wanna know what’s going on in Hermosa Beach RIGHT NOW? Check out the strandcam!

  • Photos courtesy of Lady M (Hermosa beach), Tel lo Juro Por Madonna (Shopping & Hermosa Pier)