Gadling

All this week, Gadling will be bringing you coverage of the *other* Mexico. Beyond the margarita-fueled coastal tourist traps lie ancient ruins, colonial cities and culinary hot spots. So, leave your preconceived notions at home, and get ready to head south of the border to explore the other side of Mexico.

In 2003, Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) unveiled the Magical Villages Program. This promotional campaign highlights destinations that offer visitors a ‘magical’ experience through historical and cultural beauty and richness. One such place that fulfills these characteristics is San Cristobal de las Casas.

Located in the Chiapas highlands at an elevation of nearly 7000 feet, San Cristobal has always been thought of as a rather remote and mysterious place. Enclosed by dense pine forests, and accessed only by serpentine mountain roads, San Cristobal is anything but an easy-to-reach destination for the time-pressed traveler.

But that is exactly why you should it seek out.

In light of its re-discovery by shoestringing backpackers in the 1970s, San Cristobal now boasts stately accommodations, swanky restaurants and an intoxicating bohemian chic. It is also home to a proud indigenous community, and very briefly served as the launching point of the failed 1994 Zapatista uprising against the Mexican government.

San Cristobal de las Casas lies at the center of an ancestral Mayan region that gave rise to the modern-day Tzotzil and Tzeltal peoples. The city itself owes its origins to the Spanish conquistador Diego de Mazariegos, who established the settlement of Villareal de Chiapa de los Españoles in 1528.

In subsequent years, the military outpost quickly grew into a full-fledged city. The driving factor was the surrounding agricultural lands, which cultivated wheat, coffee, cacao and other lucrative cash crops. In 1535, the settlement was renamed San Cristobal after its patron saint, St. Christopher, and designated as the capital of Chiapas.

Great wealth flowed into the city, fueling the construction of lavish churches, grand plazas, cobbled streets and row upon row of gilded mansions. But indigenous populations remained on the fringes of European society, a fact of history that centuries later was incorporated into the political ideologies of the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN).

On the morning of January 1, 1994, Subcomadante Marcos led armed Zapatista insurgents into San Cristobal where they proceeded to free political prisoners and raze police buildings and military barracks. Despite this initial success, they were chased out of the city the following day by the Mexican army. Ten days later, the Catholic diocese in San Cristobal brokered a ceasefire between the Zapatistas and the government.

The Zapatistas are now primarily focused on pacifist community organizing amongst the various indigenous groups in Chiapas. The Mexican government and armed forces have also largely shifted their attention towards fighting the drug cartels, which pose a much more significant threat to the country’s stability.

As such, regional security is arguably stronger than it has ever been, which means that travelers need not fear the roads into San Cristobal. Instead of being on the lookout for bandits and checkpoints, you can focus on the densely jungled hillsides, the sweeping valleys full of agricultural bounty and the towering pine trees that herald your arrival in San Cristobal.

A small, compact city of no less than 140,000 souls, San Cristobal is perfectly suited to exploration on foot, particularly along the central pedestrian promenades. While there are only a few tourist attractions in the classic sense, the entire city is akin to a living museum.

Each turn of the corner brings to life this stunning example of Spanish colonial architecture. The beauty is in the details – vibrant facades, wrought iron fixtures, ceramic roofing, bubbling fountains, trussed vines and flowering trees.

(But don’t just take our word for it – check out the gallery below.)

Beyond the steady stream of well-heeled tourists, San Cristobal plays host to a creative community of artists and artisans. It also serves as a marketplace for food products and household goods, luring in villagers from the Chiapan countryside. Mayan dialects trump Spanish, and market goers are often colorfully draped in traditional hand-embroidered textiles.

And now for the nitty-gritty:

How to get there: The nearest commercial airport to San Cristobal lies in the city of Tuxtla Gutierrez, approximately 50 miles west. From here, there are regularly scheduled bus departures to San Cristobal, with a total travel time of about one to two hours. Long-distance buses also connect San Cristobal with major cities in Chiapas, Oaxaca and the Yucatan. Bus travel in Mexico is generally safe, affordable and surprisingly efficient.

Where to stay: The grittier outskirts of San Cristobal have a few barebones bunkhouses, but splurge on a night or two in the wonderfully restored buildings lining the historic center. Depending on your preference, you can bed down in a former hacienda complete with lush gardens and elegant dining halls, or opt for smaller yet more intimate B&Bs and boutique inns.

What to eat: San Cristobal has a sizeable resident ex-pat population, which ensures a surprising number of cosmopolitan dining and drinking options. The pedestrian throughways are lined with brick-oven pizzerias, Argentinean steakhouses, French bistros, Lebanese sheesha lounges and even a Belgian chocolatier! And in case you were wondering, yes, there are in fact excellent Mexican restaurants in San Cristobal.

Still think that Mexican tourism begins and ends along the often overhyped coastlines? Think again as some of the country’s most spectacular destinations lie inland, awaiting to be discovered by savvy travelers. If these veritable diamonds in the rough sound appealing, then make the effort to discover what lies in the *other* Mexico.

[Photo: A church in San Cristóbal de las Casas. doctora w/Flickr]

All this week, Gadling will be bringing you coverage of the *other* Mexico. Beyond the margarita-fueled coastal tourist traps lie ancient ruins, colonial cities and culinary hot spots. So, leave your preconceived notions at home, and get ready to head south of the border to explore the other side of Mexico.

We’ll be the first to confess that prying yourself away from the powder-perfect beaches of Cancun is no easy task. And even if you do manage to put down the Corona and find some proper cloths, the sweaty interior of the Yucatan isn’t exactly the most relaxing of destinations.

Local tour operators feel your pain – and can quickly sense your padded wallet – which means that day-trips to the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza are cheap and easy to arrange. Not to discount one of the New7Wonders, but the hordes of spring breakers and package travelers definitely detract from the hidden wonder of this ancient site.

For those of you jaded by mass tourism, fret not as there are (in our humble opinion) equally impressive Mayan ruins just a bit further south in Chiapas. Palenque, with an archaeological history dating back to 100 BCE, is quite literally all alone in the middle of the deep jungle.

%Gallery-120895%Palenque can’t match the sheer perfection of Chichen Itza, but its comparative isolation is astounding. The ruins are located in high mountainous terrain, with sweeping views of the sprawling flats below. It’s also estimated that less than 10% of the original site has been excavated, leaving many to wonder what lies beneath the trees and vines.

As history would have it, Palenque was abandoned by the Mayans sometime around 800 CE. Amongst archaeologists, anthropologists and historians, there is no unified theory to explain the Mayan collapse, though disease, warfare, drought, deforestation and climate change are all likely culprits.

Palenque was eventually re-discovered by Spanish conquistadores in the 16th century. It is now one of the most widely studied Mayan sites, and a repository of truly awe-inspiring structures. While there are too many to describe here, we’ll briefly mention the Palace, the Temple of Inscriptions and the Temple of the Cross Group.

The Palace is distinguished by its four-story tower, a stately construction that belies its true age. In addition to serving as a signifying marker of Palenque’s royal residence, the tower was also functional. From these lofty heights, it was easy to spy on encroaching parties, and to send out a call to arms if the situation grew hostile.

Beneath the tower lies the vaulted rooms, reinforced corridors and sheltered courtyards that comprise the Palace. Unrestricted access means that you can traipse through the royal residence, and live out some of your hidden Indiana Jones fantasies. Be sure to slow down and scope out the hand-carved reliefs that have withstood the test of time.

Perhaps the most *Chichen Itza-like* building at Palenque is the Temple of Inscriptions, which is a true step pyramid in the classic Mayan style. It is also the visual centerpiece of the Temple of the Inscriptions’ Court, which lies just beyond the main entrance to the ruins.

This particular construction is renowned amongst academics because its discovery yielded nearly flawless examples of Mayan hieroglyphic text. Subsquent analyis has revealed that the temple served as a funerary shrine to Pakal, the 7th century ruler of Palenque. Although he lived to see its groundbreaking, it was finshed post-mortem by his son and heir, Balam II.

The Temple of the Cross Group, set back from the Palace and the Temple of the Inscriptions at the jungle’s edge, is comprised of three smaller step pyramids set around a central courtyard. Unlike the Temple of Inscriptions, this group is believed to have served largely ceremonial functions as evidenced by the ritual objects found at the site.

Of course, it’s probably the unseen at Palenque that captivates visitors the most. Although the surrounding jungle is off-limits to those without archaeology degrees, a steady stream of discoveries continues to filter out in the journals. Recent excavations have revealed aqueducts, elite residences, minor tombs and even pre-Colombian ball game courts.

And now for the nitty-gritty:

How to get there: The nearest commercial airport to Palenque lies in the city of Villahermosa, approximately 90 miles northwest. From here, there are regularly scheduled bus departures to Palenque, with a total travel time of about two hours. Long-distance buses also connect Palenque with major cities in Chiapas and the Yucatan. Bus travel in Mexico is generally safe, affordable and surprisingly efficient.

Where to stay: In the modern town of Palenque, there are bare-bones bunkhouses, three-star tourist hotels and a few modest luxury resorts. Alternatively, the nearby backpacker ghetto of El Panchan is located on the edge of the encroaching jungle, and comprised of several rustic cabinas and well-groomed campsites. Advanced reservations aren’t necessary unless you’re traveling during Semana Santa.

What to eat: With high temperatures reaching triple digits, not to mention the crushing humidity, even the hardiest of appetites can subside in the tropical heat. But when the mercury does drop, you’ll find an incredible assortment of tropical fruits (mangos, papayas, passion fruit, bananas, etc), locally-grown habanero peppers, fresh river fish, free-range chicken and chewy filets from the heat-tolerant Zebu cattle.

Still think Mayan ruins starts and stops with Chichen Itza? Think again as the Mayans left behind a pantheon of monumental cities and archaeological traces of their highly advanced civilization. With that said, consider steering clear of the overhyped coastlines, and taking the time to discover what lies in the *other* Mexico.

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All this week, Gadling will be bringing you coverage of the *other* Mexico. Beyond the margarita-fueled coastal tourist traps lie ancient ruins, colonial cities and culinary hot spots. So, leave your preconceived notions at home, and get ready to head south of the border to explore the other side of Mexico.

Mexican food in one form or another is enjoyed the world over. Not to discount the deliciousness of cheese nachos and mega-burritos, but finding truly authentic Mexican food can be a challenge. Indeed, first-timers in Mexico are often astonished to discover that real Mexican food is unlike anything they’ve grown accustomed to eating back home.

Just as cuisine varies from region to region in France, Italy and Spain, the Mexican culinary landscape takes into account climate, proximity to the sea and historical roots. It can take the form of a hearty soup of corn and beans, a martini glass full of marinated ceviche or a masterfully blended sauce served over a fine cut of meat.

When it comes to slow food, one region that steals the stage is Oaxaca (pronounced wa-HA-ka). Located in southern Mexico between the Pacific Ocean and the highlands of Chiapas, Oaxaca is a veritable foodie paradise of indigenous eats, French-style sauces and some truly amazing mescal.

%Gallery-120762%The State of Oaxaca is often thought of as Mexico in miniature. Home to no less than sixteen indigenous groups, Oaxaca is deeply rooted in its traditional culture. Yet Oaxaca City, a shining jewel of Spanish colonial architecture, is stylish, cosmopolitan and increasingly well-heeled. The state is also rich in biodiversity, complete with rugged mountains, fertile valleys and sweeping coastlines.

The menu is no less complex. Fresh grains and produce, free-range animals, abundant seafood and even wild game all find their way to the Oaxacan plate. While many items will be unfamiliar at first glance, Oaxaca surprisingly pioneered the quesadilla! On that note, here is a list of recommended items worth consuming or imbibing.

The humble quesadilla. Forget shredded cheddar cheese on a wheat tortilla with watery salsa. We’re talking about Oaxacan-style salted string cheese on a ground-corn tortilla with a blend of fire-roasted tomatillos and dried chilies. And that, mi amigo, is just your average run-of-the-mill Oaxacan quesadilla.

Want to get fancy? Add a lightly-fried squash blossom stuffed with soft cheese curds. Want to get ethnic? Add a handful of deep-fried grasshoppers doused in chili-salt and fresh lime juice. Want to get meaty? Add ground-up bits of spicy chorizo and shredded hunks of spice-rubbed chicken breast.

Anything from the markets. Oaxaca is justifiably famous for its food markets. Vendors run the gamut from small mom-and-pop shops hawking their homegrown wares to large industrial operators churning out processed products. Some markets occupy historic buildings in the colonial city, while others lying on the periphery are the size of small towns.

What should you look for? Anything that takes your fancy! Beyond that, don’t miss the rows of artisanal cheeses, barrels of sun-dried chilies, all manners of tropical fruits, handmade tortillas and vats of homemade pickles. As we mentioned before, deep-fried grasshoppers are everywhere, and serve as a popular snack food and a quick pick-me-up.

Soups and ceviche. Two of the heavy-hitting all-stars of Mexican cuisine are soups and ceviche. The former can be black-beans simmering in their stock with whole chilies and chopped cilantro, steaming tomato consommé with strips of fried tortilla and fresh corn or blended avocado with cream fraise and garlic salt served at room temperature.

Ceviche is often likened to Mexican sushi, though this is something of a misnomer. In fact, ceviche utilizes the acidic properties of lime or lemon juice to slowly cook cubes of raw fish, shrimp and octopus. After soaking for 1-2 hours, the marinated seafood is mixed with onions, tomatoes, garlic, cilantro, olives and/or capers.

The moles. We’re not talking about the blind, burrowing rodents, but rather the moh-lay or Mexican sauce. Oaxaca in particular is distinguished by its seven moles, ranging in color from the spicy, dark chocolate deliciousness of mole negro to the pumpkin-seed accented green tomatillo blend that is mole verde.

Moles are never served by themselves, but rather doused over meat, fish, eggs and/or tortillas. Some sauces are better suited to specific complements, such as mole negro and turkey breast, mole verde and chicken and mole amarilla and beef. Local tip: Eat mole for lunch as you will need plenty of time to properly digest.

Mescal and the worm. When it comes to spirits, mescal, the fermented and distilled heart of the agave plant, isn’t exactly a connoisseur’s first choice. But we’d wager that once you try the real stuff the way it was meant to be quaffed, you’ll agree that mescal deserves a spot alongside single malt whiskies and finely-aged cognac.

True mescal is 100% agave-derived, and contrary to popular belief, does not always contain a gusano or dried worm to mark its authenticity. Smoky in taste, mescal is best drunk straight or mixed with a pinch of chili-salt and chased with fresh oranges. Young mescal (blanco) is clear and light, while older mescal (reposado or añejo) is darker and more complex.

Still think Mexican food is just beans, rice, chips and salsa? Think again as one of the greatest cuisines in the world is richly varied, heart-healthy and not as spicy as you might imagine. With that said, consider steering clear of the overhyped coastlines, and taking the time to discover what lies in the *other* Mexico.

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