Gadlinks for Wednesday 11.11.09

by Brenda Yun on

Did you know that former Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat died five years ago today? I think it’s fair to say that the situation is getting rather dire for the people in Palestine, as their current leader is threatening to quit his post. My girlfriend will be volunteering in a Palestinian refugee camp come February. I hope things will clear up by then.

I didn’t mean for this pre-script to be such a downer! Maybe these articles will help to lift our travel spirits?

‘Til tomorrow, have a great evening!

More Gadlinks HERE.

Clash at Jerusalem sacred site

by Sean McLachlan on

Police and Palestinian protesters have clashed at the entrance to Al-Aqsa mosque, part of the Temple Mount, Jerusalem’s holy spot for both Jews and Muslims.

Details are unclear. Palestinian sources say the protesters threw rocks at a Jewish prayer group trying to enter the area in defiance to Israeli law, which reserves the top of the Temple Mount for Muslims. Jews are supposed to pray at the Western Wall on the other side. Israeli sources say the Palestinians threw rocks at a group of tourists who were dressed inappropriately.

We may never know what really happened, but the result was that several Palestinians and Israeli police were injured and a holy spot was once again marred by violence.

I’ve been to the Temple Mount several times and despite the palpable tension it’s well worth a visit. The eleventh-century Al-Aqsa mosque has attractive medieval stained glass and an elaborately carved minbar (pulpit). Of greater interest is the Dome of the Rock next door. Its golden dome is a Jerusalem landmark and covers the spot where Mohammad is believed to have ascended to heaven. The building is decorated with beautiful multicolored tiles. Nearby is the Western Wall, also called the Wailing Wall, said to be part of the original Jewish Temple and a place of great spiritual importance for Jews.

Visiting the Temple Mount is a quick lesson in religious politics. Police crowd every entrance and signs warn members of opposing religions from worshiping at each other’s sites. On one visit during the Nineties I went with my girlfriend of the time, who was Muslim. The soldiers eyed us suspiciously and hovered close by as we waited outside for the prayer service to end. She wanted us to go in together but I wasn’t allowed in during services. Once the service was over, we entered and she did her prayers as I admired the building. Nobody objected to the strange sight of an agnostic and a Muslim visiting Islam’s third holiest site together, but we got plenty of curious looks. I wonder if we could have pulled it off today? I’m not sure I’d try. Too bad everyone can’t just chill out and accept that there are different types of people in the world.

No chance. I can’t even blog about Ottoman architecture without getting grumpy comments. Ah well.

Museum Junkie: Museum of the Good Samaritan opens in Israel

by Sean McLachlan on

One of the world’s largest mosaic museums recently opened in Israel.

The Museum of the Good Samaritan displays artifacts from the many cultures that lived in the region. The main attractions are the intricate mosaics found in synagogues in the West Bank and Gaza.

The museum is located on the highway between Jerusalem and Jericho near the ancient town of Ma’ale Adumim in the West Bank, believed to be the site of the inn where the parable of the Good Samaritan took place. According to the story, told by Jesus in the Gospel of Luke (10:25-37) a man is beaten up by robbers and left for dead on the side of the road. Nobody will help him but a Samaritan, a member of a rival Jewish sect that was persecuted in ancient times. His act of mercy has become synonymous with the kindness of strangers and the ability of goodness to reach across social boundaries.

This being Israel, history is politics, and officials were quick to put a spin on the museum’s opening. In an article in the Jerusalem Post, Knesset Speaker Reuvlen Rivlin said the museum underscores Israel’s historic ties to the West Bank and Gaza and its devotion to keeping a presence in them. The Knesset is the Israeli parliament, and Rivlin is one of the most powerful members of the ruling Likud party, so his words carry significant political weight.

Some of the mosaics come from Samaritan synagogues, offering a rare look at a faith that few people know still exists.

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Two tours, two Jerusalems

by Sean McLachlan on

BBC’s Tim Franks has written a fascinating article about taking two very different tours to the same place. His guides showed him the same sights and talked about the same things, but their interpretations were entirely different. It was like they weren’t talking about the same place at all.

That place, of course, is Jerusalem.

Franks went to the Temple Mount, known to Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary. He took tours with Al-Quds University, the only Arab university in Jerusalem, and the Western Wall Heritage Foundation, run by the Israeli government.

Both took him along the Western Wall, built by King Herod about 2,000 years ago, and through a tunnel dug alongside it. The Jewish tour guide pointed out a mikveh, a room for Jewish ritual cleansing. The Palestinian guide said there was no evidence it was used as such. The Jewish guide said the Western Wall (also known as the Wailing Wall for the anguished prayers of many of the faithful) is one of the walls of the ancient Jewish Temple. The Palestinian guide said there is no evidence for this. The Jewish guide compared this statement to Holocaust denial.

And so it goes, round and round.

Back in my archaeology days I did a field season in Israel and can attest to how quickly history gets turned into a political football. Start talking about archaeology, and sooner or later you’ll start talking religion and politics. Usually sooner. With so many religious sites piled literally on top of one another, there’s bound to be arguments. If you look at the picture of the Western Wall above, you can see the dome for Al-Aksa Mosque right above it, and the Dome of the Rock is just off the picture to the left. Both religions consider this same spot to be sacred.

While we read about this all the time in the news, it’s much more interesting to witness firsthand. So if you are headed to the Holy Land and want to see just how contentious history can be, why not try out both of these tours? Or if this whole thing is just making your head hurt, you can always go to the local Hooters.

Big in Palestine: How to travel safely in the West Bank

by Matthew Firestone on

This week, Big in Japan is on vacation in the Middle East, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood region.

Today’s post will give you some tips on traveling in the West Bank, that swath of land sitting between Israel and Jordan that one day might compose the vast bulk of an independent Palestine. Please keep in mind that the security situation in Israel and the Palestinian Territories changes daily (sometimes hourly), so please use this guide as a general reference, and always seek local advice before doing something that your mother certainly wouldn’t approve of!

The once and future spark to the great powder keg that is the Middle East is Palestine, a historic geographical region located on the southern east coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The name itself actually dates to 135 AD when the Romans changed Judea to Palestine in order to incite tensions between Jews and the Philistines. Needless to say, not much has changed in the subsequent two-thousand years…

Today, Palestine refers to the West Bank and the Gaza Strip. You would need to have a serious malfunction to even consider stepping foot in Gaza, though traveling in the West Bank is a lot safer than the media would have you believe.

So, here’s how you do it:

From East Jerusalem, which is the large Palestinian neighborhood that sits beyond the ancient walls of the Muslim Quarter, take any Arab bus bound for Bethlehem, which sits on the other side of the security wall separating Jerusalem and the West Bank. Note that Jewish buses do not run to the security wall for obvious reasons. Once at the security wall, you must pass through a heavily militarized checkpoint, and you should expect some serious questioning by Israeli army and police.

Once on the other side, expect to be bombarded by taxi drivers. Even if you’re a fiercely independent traveler, it’s probably a good idea to strike up a bargain with a friendly-looking soul. Having a local guide, which shouldn’t cost more than US$30-50 a day, will buy you some serious peace of mind, and will provide some candid insight into the Palestinian situation.

Prior to the start of the infitada (uprising), the West Bank was a major tourist destination, especially since it’s home to the birthplace of Jesus, namely Bethlehem, as well as the ancient city of Jericho. Hebron and Ramallah, historic Palestinaian cities, are also extremely interesting destinations, as are the temples, monasteries and palaces scattered amidst the deserts of Judea and Samaria.

Although this should go without saying, it’s probably not a good idea to wear any obvious Judaic signs in this part of the world. However, most Palestinians you meet in the West Bank are extremely receptive to tourists, especially since they want their story to be told to the outside world. However, do keep in mind that emotions run high, so best to keep your politics to yourself, regardless of where they may lie. After all, traveling in the West Bank can be eye-opening experience, so best to come with a soft heart and an open mind.

Intrigued by the Middle East? Want to know more about this often misunderstood region? Check out yesterday’s post on traveling in Dubai.

** Special thanks to my mother for maintaining a fair measure of her sanity despite my love of adventure travel in dangerous places**