Midnight In Paris: Dark Moments in the City of Light

The pounding began at 12:46 a.m., a slow banging that echoed through the courtyard of our tiny ground-floor apartment in the center of Paris.

Boom … boom … boom.

I’d been woken up before by the random pigeon cooing in the courtyard or the occasional wine-soaked resident stumbling up the stairs. I’d also been routinely roused out of a dream state by the building’s concierge, Madame Dontas, as we were instructed to call her, who insisted on sweeping outside our door at the first light of day. This noise, however, was different.

Boom … boom … boom.

“Do you hear that?” Jessie whispered, rolling over to face me. The pounding, louder and more frequent as the minutes ticked on our bedside digital clock, indicated there was a very impatient (possibly deranged) person on the other side. If this were happening back in New York – a place where I speak the language and know the proper procedures in which to deal with an unexpected, possibly inconvenient situation – I could handle it. But being in a place that was unfamiliar and foreign to me only amplified the fear. I barely knew the language – my French wasn’t even good enough to transcend eye rolls from waiters and condescending switches to English by shoe salesmen when I made gross mispronunciations or failed to conjugate an irregular verb the right way – and this paralyzed me.

Our apartment was directly across the courtyard from the oversized thick wooden front doors that led out to the Rue des Pyramides in the very center of the city. It was one of only two apartments on the courtyard. The other belonged to the Dontas’ who had just left that day for their native Portugal. There had to be other people in the building, but it felt like we were all alone – just us and the thugs trying to get in.

Then incomprehensible screams and hollers began to accompany the pounding. “What do you think it is?” Jessie said, sitting up. “What do they want?”

I crawled out of bed, squatted down in front of our apartment door, and lifted the narrow mail slot. I could see the front door rattle – little cracks of light – every time the mysterious potential intruders pounded on the apartment building door, about 40 feet from me. Jessie squatted next to me and together we watched the door in front of us shake. She locked her arm in mine and I squeezed hers tight to my chest. I hadn’t been this frightened years.

Jessie wondered out loud if we should call the police. But that would mean I’d have to talk … in French … on the phone. I didn’t know what frightened me more: what these guys might do if they succeeded in getting in or having to actually talk in French on the phone. I’d have to explain what was happening and I must have been sick the day we went over the chapter “When an intruder comes to say bon soir” in the French class I took before we moved to Paris. Despite my frustrations with speaking French, I was the more linguistically inclined between us and therefore the mouthpiece when one of us had to say something in another language. But if I called, I’d have to meet the police outside and what if they asked for my passport and they’d see that we didn’t have a residency permit.

The door began shaking more violently with each pounding and the screams from the other side grew louder. “Maybe we should call,” Jessie said.

Kitty Genovese popped into my head. “But we don’t even know the number for the police,” I said, relieved that I didn’t have to make the call.

“I think it’s 1-5,” Jessie said.

Damn. I went over to the phone and dialed. It was that European phone ring I still hadn’t become accustomed to – the kind of ring that, from an American ear, almost sounds like a busy signal. Someone answered. I paused.

“Good evening,” I sputtered out in French. “I have an emergency.” I hesitated, hoping the person on the other end of the line would say, No problem, we’ll send someone right away, and that would be it. It wasn’t.

“And…?” the man on the other end of the phone said.

“There is a man who…er….um….” I didn’t know the word for knock, pound, slam their fist, break down the door, cut me up into tiny pieces and deposit my remains in a dumpster.

“There is a man who boom, boom, boom” – I mimicked the sound – “on the door.”

Is anyone hurt? Do you need an ambulance?”

“No. Not yet”

“So what do need me for?” the voice on the other end asked.

I paused. I knew that the French were more nonchalant than Americans, but this was ridiculous.

Just then, in a terse whisper, Jessie said: “They’re starting to kick the door down.”

Before I could answer the question from the voice on the phone, he added: “This is medical emergency. Call the police emergency line if someone’s trying to enter your apartment.”

Then I could hear the swift motion of a hang up.

“Wait! Wait!” I screamed. “Hello?”

“What?”

“Do you have the number for the police?”

He let out a sigh and then said, “1-7.” Then the phone went dead. He’d hung up as soon as he could.

When the woman at the police emergency center answered the phone, I tried a different approach: “Parlez vous Engles?”

She didn’t, so I went though the same kind of verbal miming I had already done with the ambulance emergency and then she asked the address. “Rue des Pyramides 7,” I said. She said the police were on their way. I put the phone down and Jessie and I hugged, relieved that we were going to get through this. We both paced around our diminutive one-room apartment and then squatted in front of the door again, peering out the mail slot. We watched the door continue to shake with each pound as we silently rooted on the police who were undoubtedly just around the corner by now. But, in fact, they weren’t. Twenty minutes had gone by and the thugs outside were still screaming and pounding. And then finally, our phone rang.

Bon soir,” the familiar female voice from 20 minutes ago, said. “The police officers just informed me that the address you gave them is a church. You are not living in a church, no?”

“A church? No,” I whispered. “We’re at Rue des Pyramides 7. Just a block from the Louvre.”

“Ah,” she said. “Rue des Pyramides,” putting an accent over a part of the street name that I apparently hadn’t. “Before you said Rue des Pyramides.”

It sounded exactly the same to me. To this day, I have no idea where I sent the police, but apparently they were now on their way, which was good because when I put the phone down and peered through the mail slot, I watched as the front doors to the courtyard burst open. Even the thugs were surprised when the doors swung open and slammed against the side walls.

French criminals, I had thought, were relatively harmless. They’d sneak around in a beret, with a black mask over their eyes and a stylish black-and-white-striped shirt. When I taught English as a second language, there was a section in the text book for stupid criminals and one of the anecdotes told of a burglar in France who, lured by a nice bottle of Bordeaux and a hunk of brie, decided to put down the jewels he was five-fingering for a minute and have a brief epicurean feast. After a little while, he was sleepy, so he lay down on the couch to take a nap, only to be woken up a few hours later by the police.

These guys, however, weren’t dressed in the French national burglar outfit. Nor did they seem very hungry for cheese. About five of them poured through the door and made a sprint straight for us, as we slightly lowered the mail slot. But instead of coming to knock our door down, they tore up the stairwell, screaming as they advanced up into the building. C’mon police, I thought. Where are you?

Noise and ruckus from above echoed throughout the courtyard. Where was everyone? Was this entire building empty except for us? Jessie and I kept mentally willing the police to stride through the busted open front doors. Five minutes later, the thugs stomped down the steps and exited the building, leaving the doors wide open. We didn’t know what they wanted; nor did we know if they got what they had come for. But twenty seconds after they left, the police arrived. And, surprisingly, they were met in the courtyard by several residents. I was too bashful to go out and talk to them, saying I was the one who had called the police; I was the one who couldn’t say the name of the street correctly, which is why they had just missed the intruders. Instead, Jessie and I sat inside and listened to the trembling voices of the residents intermingle with the police officers’ radio dispatches on their transmitters.

Like good criminals, we opened a bottle of wine, unwrapped a hunk of cheese and ate and drank until we became sleepy and then drifted off into the Paris of our dreams.

US News & World Report Ranks Best Vacations

It’s time for summer vacation, and we’re pretty sure we could use a long week at the beach. Thanks to U.S. News & World Report, we now know the most statistically sound places to maximize our oh-so-precious vacation time, sorted by region.

The new rankings identify the top vacation spots based on a methodology that combines expert and consumer opinions. They reflect how strongly a destination is recommended by travel experts and U.S. News Travel website users.

According to the survey, Bali, Kauai and the Seychelles take the top awards for “Best Beaches” while Barcelona, Paris and Berlin rank on top for Best European Vacations. Within the U.S., Yellowstone, New York City and Washington, D.C., are the most coveted destinations.

In total, more than 200 destinations were considered in the current rankings, and this marks the first time the publication has ranked the “Best” list on a global scale.

[Flickr image of Kauai by Chuck 55]

Bradley Wiggins Wins 2012 Tour de France

British cyclist Bradley Wiggins has won the 2012 Tour de France giving the U.K. its first champion in the 99-year history of the event. He’ll cap his historic run in the three-week long race by riding onto the Champs-Elysees in Paris in the Tour’s final leg.

Wiggins, who rides for Team Sky, grabbed the lead on the first major mountain stage of the race and really didn’t face much competition after that. Last year’s winner, Aussie Cadel Evans, didn’t seem to have the legs to hang with the Brit on the big climbs and Canadian Ryder Hesjedal crashed out of the race with a broken collarbone early on. Combine that with the fact that Wiggins’ very strong team were always close at hand, and other contenders found it impossible to earn back any time on the leader. As a result, this year’s Tour wasn’t particularly interesting for spectators to watch but it was definitely a clinic on how a strong and efficient team can win the race.

Wiggins will be joined on the podium by teammate Chris Froome and Italian Vincenzo Nibali in second and third place respectively. There were times when it seemed that Froome could have pulled away from Wiggins and possibly won the race himself, but like a good teammate he stayed close and paced his friend through the mountains. He is expected to be a major threat to possibly win the Tour in the future, however, and the two men may find themselves battling each other down the road.

Today’s final stage is 130km (80.77 miles) in length and runs from Rambouillet to Paris. It is largely a ceremonial victory lap for the winner of the race’s famed Yellow Jersey as none of the other riders will attack the leader on the final day. The top sprinters will battle it out on the Champs-Elysees, however, and when they hit that famous road it will be chaos at the front of the peloton. Gaining a stage win in front of the crowd in Paris is a major accomplishment and there are a number of very fast riders who will be hoping to earn that distinction.

Congrats to Bradley Wiggins on his impressive victory. I’m sure British cycling fans will be enjoying the final ride later today.

[Photo credit: Sapin88 via WikiMedia]

2012 Tour De France Begins Today!

Cycling’s premiere event, the Tour de France, gets underway today with the world’s best riders preparing for another challenging race. This year’s Tour promises to be an exciting one as the teams go head-to-head through 20 grueling stages that culminate on July 22 with their arrival on the Champs Elysees in Paris.

The competition for the famed Maillot Jaune, or Yellow Jersey, which is worn throughout the competition by the race leader, should prove to be an interesting one. Former Tour champ Alberto Contador, widely considered the best cyclist in the world, is out of the race while serving a controversial drug suspension. His chief rival, Andy Schleck, is also out after suffering a fracture to his back in the Criterium du Dauphine at the start of June. This opens the door for any number of riders to claim victory in Paris, including defending champ Cadel Evans and Bradley Wiggins of the U.K. They’ll be pushed by Ryder Hesjedal of Canada, Robert Gesink from the Netherlands and Frank Schleck of Luxembourg.

When the race begins later today it will be on the streets of Liège where the cyclists will ride a short 6.4-kilometer (4-mile) Prologue that will determine the preliminary rankings before heading into the first road stage tomorrow. Stage 1 will be a mostly flat and fast affair covering 198 kilometers (123 miles) between Liège and Seraing. This will give the Tour’s sprinters a chance to stretch their legs before heading into the mountains in the later stages of the race.

The course designers did a fine job of mixing up the challenges this year. The race begins with the traditional flat stages, but eventually gives way to tougher medium and big mountain stages, which is where the race is usually won and lost. Two individual time trials will also go a long way towards determining who will wear the Yellow Jersey in Paris in three weeks time.

You can follow all of the action on the Tour de France website, where daily updates show rankings, stage results and individual highlights. For cycling fans, it is going to be an exciting event.

Four Myths about Paris and Parisians

The founder of Lonely Planet guidebooks espouses a philosophy that through travel, the world can become a more peaceful place. It’s true. I can no longer count the times stereotypes have been completely shattered when I go to a new country. The Polish, for example, don’t need ten people and a ladder to screw in a light bulb. Likewise, the Mexicans aren’t shiftless, sombrero-wearers who use donkeys to get from one bar to the next. Other times, however, a stereotype can confirm a preconceived image we had before going to a country: many Italians really do speak with their hands. And it’s a fact that Germans drink a lot of beer. Similarly, the first time I was in Paris, in the early-’90s, I remember seeing designer-clad women walking down the Champs Elysees holding perfectly groomed toy poodles on a leash. I left France, having only spent 24 hours there with this image remaining in my mind.

Ten years later, I moved to Paris. After scraping for as much information as I could about my adopted new home, I kept coming across similar themes: Parisians are rude, they won’t help you if you’re American and/or speak butchered French, etc. But after a few weeks in Paris it was clear to me: we’ve been misinformed about the City of Light and its inhabitants. Here’s how:

Myth #1: Parisians are rude.
Verdict: False.

The number of friendly people I encountered in the first two weeks of living in Paris far outweighs the number of uncouth. Big cities are chaotic places and no matter where you are you’re going to encounter rudeness. San Francisco and Prague, two cities that I spent a combined seven years in, are far more hostile places than Paris.

If you come to France and don’t make an attempt to speak the language, you’re going to get treated poorly. But if receiving courtesy and respect from your savage hosts hovers on the lower rungs of your priority totem pole, the exchange I witnessed one day between a wealthy, middle-aged American couple and a butcher will not surprise you. The American man asked the butcher if he spoke English – in English! No Parlez-vous Anglais? I enjoyed watching the butcher stare at them for a long five seconds before slowly shaking his head no, almost as if he were shaming them. In response, the American man just screamed his order at the butcher in English. Somehow this worked. He got his sausage. But the damage was done: the butcher probably went home that night and strangled his effigy of Ronald Reagan again. If you went around the United States and asked people in Erdu if they spoke Erdu, how many responses would you get that differ from the exchange above? Answer: unless you hit the jackpot and find an Erdu speaker, exactly zero. Peace through tourism will not come unless tourists stop thinking that they only need to show up in a country and everything else will be handed to them on a silver platter (after, of course, screaming in your native language.)

Myth#2: If you don’t speak perfect French or have a perfect French accent, the Parisians will pretend to not understand you.

Verdict: False.

I took a one-week intensive course before moving to Paris. I don’t speak perfectly. In fact, I can barely order my food in a restaurant. Still, no one feigned ignorance, pretending that I’m actually speaking Swiss German. Take an encounter I had in a department store one day translated into English:

Me: Excuse me, have you stuff for the skin of the face that I wear to clean at the morning and at the night?

Shop Assistant: Face soap?

Me: Yes!

Shop Assistant: Right this way, sir.

Myth #3: The French hate Americans.

Verdict: False

The French seem intrinsically opposed to any foreign policy the Americans initiate. Even September 11 was debated here. A book published in France while I was living there argued that the terrorist attacks on New York and Washington, D.C., were just a hoax by the Bush administration. As silly as it may sound, it was a best seller. After hearing about this I imagined having this kind of encounter in Paris:

French Person: Where do you come from?

Me: America

French Person: Oh, so you are Americain. You probably zink zat zee September 11 really happened, don’t you? DON’T YOU?!

The French and Americans are both extremely proud and nationalistic. We may butt heads occasionally, but that doesn’t mean they don’t like us or will treat you worse just because of the name of the country on your passport. (But if you tell them one more time, “We saved your ass in the war,” things may take a turn for the worse.)

When I first arrived to live in Paris and people would ask where I was from, my response was Prague (since I had just lived there for a few years and am still familiar with the language-besides who in France is really going to test me). But the response I got every time was, “oh…” So I changed my answer to San Francisco and it often led to a warm smile and further conversation (not necessarily about San Francisco).

Myth #4: The French carry baguettes.

Verdict: True

On the cover of my French grammar book, there’s a photo of a woman carrying a bundle of baguettes. Its kitschy appeal made me laugh. Then I went to France and saw people actually walking around with baguettes, as if they were contractually obligated. The French love their bread – and so do I. It’s great. But it’s more than just tasty. It really is a symbol of French pride. During a French presidential campaign while I was in there, far-right candidate Jean Marie Le Pen, laid down a bouquet of flowers in front of a statue of Joan of Arc in Paris. His supporters were behind him holding up baguettes to show their pride and solidarity. This made me wonder: what food item would Americans hold up? Hot Dogs? Apple Pies? Cans of Coca Cola?

Whatever the case, on your next trip to Paris try to let go of any preconceived notions of the locals and you just might learn something new.

Because as my good friend, Andrew Evans, National Geographic’s Digital Nomad, recently said: “A good traveler is one who constantly discovers that he or she is wrong about a given destination.”

[photo via Flickr, courtesy of Antoaneta]