Big up Kingston – Sunday brunch with a view

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Sunday brunch is an institution in Jamaica. After church services (around 65% of Jamaicans are Christian) it’s perhaps the second most popular Sunday ritual. Families gather together to enjoy a leisurely meal of Jamaican culinary specialties and enjoy each other’s company. Although Kingston visitors can find a Jamaican Sunday brunch at any number of local spots, perhaps one of the most famous is at the legendary Kingston resort Strawberry Hill.

Nestled 3,000 feet up in the Blue Mountains, just north of Kingston proper, Strawberry Hill makes a perfect day trip to get a taste of Kingston’s culinary culture, musical history and beautiful scenery. Though it originally began its life as coffee plantation, Strawberry Hill was purchased by Island Records founder Chris Blackwell in 1972, who brought the property to its current state. Each Sunday the resort throws its doors open to brunch guests, who can enjoy a taste of Strawberry Hill’s unique Jamaican musical and culinary heritage while simultaneously taking in one of the city’s most spectacular views.

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Though Strawberry Hill isn’t within Kingston itself, visitors can easily arrange a day trip through hire of a private taxi or minibus. The ride takes around an hour and makes for an enjoyable adventure from the hustle and humid temperatures of big city Kingston. As your ride winds its way slowly up mountain switchbacks, you are surrounded by a lush tapestry of green jungle vegetation. Your vehicle passes by tiny towns of minuscule one-room storefronts, stocked with ripe mangoes and steaming cold bottles of Red Stripe beer. Meanwhile, the grid of Kingston hides coyly beneath you, shrouded by frequent clumps of mountain clouds.

Soon enough you arrive at a tiny unassuming sign announcing the resort’s entrance. Strawberry Hill doesn’t boast of its presence to visitors – it hides it behind dense layers of vegetation and winding mountain roads, waiting to be discovered like a mountain treasure lost to the ages. Once inside, guests are immediately confronted by the complex and its luxurious simplicity. A series of plain, open-air wooden villas are connected by covered walkways, flanked by small bunches of orange and yellow wildflowers and manicured lawns. A winding stone paths lead to an infinity pool, dropping off to a panoramic view of Kingston far below, the harbor and the surrounding jade-colored mountains fading in the hazy distance.

Don’t let all the natural beauty fool you – inside Strawberry Hill is enough musical memorabilia to stock the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame several times over. Lining the walls are candid black & white images of famous musicians like Bob Marley, U2, the Rolling Stones, Sting and Grace Jones along with numerous plaques of platinum records courtesy of owner Chris Blackwell’s Island Label. Many of the artists are one time resort guests, lending the grounds a distinct aura of musical energy and cool.

If this veritable archive of rock history doesn’t get you singing, the Sunday brunch certainly will. For around $50, brunch-ers can partake in all-you-can-eat meal including variety of Jamaican breakfast and lunch staples like jerk-style meats and the famous ackee and saltfish. Though Ackee is a tropical fruit, when cooked, many people describe it as having the consistency of a heap of scrambled eggs. Complementing this oddly wonderful Jamaican dish are heaping piles of fresh seafood, fresh local fruits and sweet cornbread-style fritters like festival. Finish your meal with a sweet helping of the delicious bread pudding.

As you polish off your plate of Jamaican brunch specialties, a bird’s eye view of Kingston below you and a virtual museum of musical history behind you, it’s hard not to feel just a little bit like a Rock and Roll star yourself. Consider yourself a backstage VIP for the day, courtesy of Jamaica’s overlooked capital, Kingston.

Gadling was recently invited by the Spanish Court Hotel to visit Kingston, Jamaica’s unexplored capital of music, food and culture. All this week we’re bringing you our observations on all this up-and-coming city has to offer. Though the trip was paid, all opinions remain our own. You can read our previous “Big up Kingston” posts HERE.

Storm the Bastille with Concorde Hotels

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Need an excuse to head out to Europe this summer? Concorde Hotels & Resorts is ready to feed your jones for travel. The Concorde Summer package – just in time for Bastille Day – puts 22 hotels from around the world at your fingertips, from the Hotel Lutetia in Paris to the super-upscale Hotel de la Paix on the shores of Lake Geneva. You can join the party for as little as $115 a night ($165 in some cases), which, I assure you, is so insane that I half-expected to see Crazy Eddy’s name listed somewhere on the press release.

As has become common with deals from up-market hotels, the low room rate isn’t all you get. Concorde is throwing in some great extras, including a daily buffet breakfast, access to double rooms and a second room at an additional 50 percent discount. Also, Condorde’s throwing in a surprise gift for each stay.

But, you have to take advantage of it this summer. The deal stretches from July 10, 2009 to September 13, 2009.

Adirondack escape updated, ready for guests

by Tom Johansmeyer on

When summer arrives, New Yorkers tend to turn to the Hamptons or the Jersey shore – depending on tax bracket. Many forget that the Adirondacks are only a few hours away. When reminded of this, the usual response involves “family destination” … and maybe a sneer. It also involves a mistake. While this corner of “upstate” remains family-friendly, there are plenty of upscale accommodations and experiences, without the traffic and travel headaches that New Yorkers find to the east and south.

The Sagamore Hotel is in the midst of a $20 million renovation, a rarity in today’s constrained market. But, the benefits of this investment are evident upon arrival. Much of the property has been redesigned rebuilt to reinforce the luxury experience. The on-property spa has 13 treatment rooms, obviating the need to wait, and the indoor pool makes it possible to take a dip even in the meanest of northern New York winters.

While the regular guestrooms are perfectly serviceable, drop the extra cash, if possible, to upgrade to a suite. Spacious doesn’t begin to describe … the bathroom. The elbow room available in the living room and bedroom is even more profound. Even for an intimate getaway, you don’t want to be crammed together – that’s a choice you’d prefer to make on your own! The bed is the star of the guestroom experience. Again, the king-sized scale makes close quarters a choice rather than a necessity, and the mattress is soft without swallowing you. In fact, it’s probably the best “compromise” bed available. Both my wife and I were happy, and I prefer to sleep on a board, while she feels that beds should be comfortable.

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As you wander The Sagamore Hotel, you get the feeling that something is somehow different. But, it’s hard to put your finger on it. The menu is carefully crafted, and the guestrooms are large and inviting. The lobby is spacious with natural pockets for larger groups to sit and have a sense of being separated from others. While this is all advantageous, it’s similar to what you’d find in any ex-urban resort. The Sagamore succeeds, however, in making it all hang together. It just fits. The mystery behind this connectedness can be traced to the general manager.

Tom Guay, who runs the Sagamore, was previously the property’s executive chef. It’s a strange route to GM – which I was unafraid to tell him. Usually, the top dog comes out of the sales department. Chefs are crazy people that you hide from the guests for most of the day, only occasionally letting them appear tableside for brief periods of time. Then, they return to the familiar insanity of a busy kitchen. Guay did get a chuckle out of my reaction (and handled it well). Apparently, the number of chefs rising to the top is increasing, and he credits the ability to multitask under hectic conditions as the driver. The attention to detail for which successful chefs are famous, I realized, is what brings the Sagamore together.

The sense of cohesion extends beyond the core property to the “lodges,” which physically constitute a property-within-a-property at the Sagamore. This part of the resort is more economical, ensuring that the traditional Adirondack constituency – families on a budget – can continue to enjoy the quiet natural surroundings. The large guestrooms in this corner of the Sagamore come with living rooms that have pullout beds in the couches and in-suite kitchenettes.

Jeopardizing the continuity of the Sagamore is the fact that there is still plenty of construction across the property: the $20 million is still being spent. The outdoor pools are being built, and guestrooms are in their final stages. A new rooftop deck is underway. While some guests may find these efforts to be a bit of an eyesore, consider the works in progress to be similar to the last multi-course meal you ate. Did the entrée suck because it was being cooked while you ate your soup? Of course not. The ongoing construction only impedes the guest experience if you choose to let it. I sat outside both nights I was on property and worked (wireless internet access is available in the rooms and in outside seating areas) and had no problems at all.

If you’re looking for a quick dash out from New York City or Boston, the Sagamore is a great alternative. It’s about the same distance from both cities, and you won’t have to deal with the crowds that plague the Hamptons and Cape Cod. Get in early, and stake your space while the renovations are being finished: the crowds are already starting to pour in!

Disclosure: The Sagamore Hotel picked up the tab for this jaunt, but the observations are all mine!

The hard truth of green luxury travel

by Tom Johansmeyer on

“Green” has become yet another upscale offer for hotels and resorts around the world. The concept allows a premium to be charged – and justifiably so, given the increased expenses that come with minimizing environmental impact. Guests get to feel good when they indulge, and the hotel makes a few extra bucks. Everyone wins, right?

Well, it isn’t that simple. Any environmentally friendly measures publicized by a resort may be inherently “green.” A bag made from recycled material, for example, may result in a lower carbon footprint. However, this probably won’t compensate for wasteful behavior elsewhere on the property. Luxury is wasteful by design, and travelers seeking green resorts need to think past the trappings of conscience publicized by the resort.

Think about any hotel room – from mid-range through the absurdly upscale. The toilet paper is replaced when only a third of the roll has been used. Soap used once or twice is swapped for a fresh bar. You can opt to use the same towel two days in a row – likewise sheets – but it isn’t the norm. It’s a choice you get to make. So, who gives a shit if the lettuce is grown locally?

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Well, that’s a tad unfair. Every measure does count. So, a hotel that only buys produce from local growers or fish from sustainable sources is making a difference. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to reconcile these behaviors with what you see when you walk into your guestroom for the first time.

The lights are on.

The air conditioner is running.

The television is turned to the hotel’s proprietary station.

The radio next to the bed is playing slow, carefully selected music.

And so on.

When it comes to the confluence of luxury and green, the priority will always be given to the former. Any measure that detracts from the guest experience will not be adopted – which becomes increasingly true as the standards of the hotel or resort increase. And, this is probably what you want. After all, when you choose a destination based on service, comfort and style, you’re looking for service, comfort and style. You elected not to sleep in a tent in the middle of the desert for a reason!

Since a luxury property won’t cut back on some of the basics, there are a few things you can do to trim your carbon footprint when you check into an upscale establishment. First, use only the lights that you need, open the curtains and turn off the devices that don’t matter to you (e.g., the television tuned to the hotel’s ads). Turn the lights off when you leave the room. Do the basics … the stuff you would do back home.

Since you can’t erase your impact completely, buy your way out of it. You can purchase carbon offsets (from Terapass, for example). These are financial devices that basically compensate for the carbon emissions for which you’re responsible. Let’s say you drive your car 10 miles. You’ve created some emissions, and there’s nothing you can do about that. But, you can buy energy that’s created through sustainable sources (via the offset). That means that green power has been created and sent to the grid … and eventually is consumed. You used fossil fuels but balanced it out by supplying someone else with energy from an eco-friendly source.

Consider making a positive impact. “Voluntourism” is gaining momentum. You don’t have to take a vacation strictly to volunteer somewhere. Instead, set aside part of your trip to make a difference. The Ritz-Carlton’s “Giveback Getaway” program, for example, allows you to set aside as little as a few hours to help an organization near the resort (for me, it was helping on a panther refuge at the Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort in Naples, Florida).

The eco-friendly lingo may deceive you at some resorts, but you can overcome the marketing hype and take control of your carbon footprint. From the small to the profound, there are steps you can take while traveling to make a difference. If you don’t care – hey, that’s your choice. Just be realistic about the green offering and the impact it has.

One&Only Palmilla’s New Villa Redefines Los Cabos Luxury

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Set foot in One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos, Mexico, and it’s pretty clear there isn’t a bad room in the house. Elegantly designed restaurants feature carefully constructed menus, and the beach is within easy reach of just about any spot on the property. But, sometimes privacy is paramount. Or, you’d like a bit more special attention than you’d get at the average upscale resort. When your needs are more complex, it’s time to book a stay at the property’s new villa. The four-bedroom escape-within-an-escape leaves nothing to chance.

While not dislocated from the property, the villa is out of the way. Hotel staff will take you to the large front door of this gated retreat by golf cart. An attendant will usher you in, and the world will begin to look different instantly. A staff of 12 works the villa, attending to everything from on-demand spa treatments (a therapist is on call) to private culinary requirements. The staff-to-guest ratio can be quite high, especially if a family of four occupies the villa, but the resort team, I’m told, remains unobtrusive.

Two master suites bookend the property. Each has a deep, large tub and walk-in shower, extra-large vanity and private terrace. The two “smaller” bedrooms include separate bathrooms and terraces, as well. The arrangement assures privacy for every guest even within the villa, without segmenting the experiences of people who choose to travel together.

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Anchoring the bedrooms is the central living space, which is decked out with high-end electronics and has walls carefully adorned with appropriate art – both of which are themes throughout the entire villa. The space is airy and open, a feeling enhanced by the large windows and sliding glass doors that open onto the main terrace and provide stunning views of the beach. Push through the doors, and you’re welcomed into what could be the setting for a thriving party scene or a serene hideout where you can enjoy the murmur of the waves undisturbed. Depending on your taste, you can sit at the full outside bar and sip your favorite spirit or take your glass over to the outdoor fireplace – the perfect way to pass an evening.

For the chronic workaholic, the villa has an office equipped for internet access, video conferencing and the other activities that keep you engaged when you shouldn’t be. The high-backed chair and leather floor add a touch of comfort to the time you spend spoiling your getaway. In all fairness to those who have to stay in touch, the on-property office may help alleviate the anxiety of wondering what’s going on while you’re away.

The price of convenience is high. Expect to drop from $8,000 to $12,000 a night for Palmilla’s villa. And, there are minimum stays of seven nights for some parts of the year. If you were thinking that this would make a great Christmas getaway, play (way) ahead. The space is booked for the next two of them already.

The Palmilla villa accommodates eight comfortably, though you can host parties that are much larger – just send everyone away when you feel like it, and spend some time enjoying the solitude of your private beach.

Disclosure: The Los Cabos Tourism Board picked up the tab for this trip. But, if you know me, you know I don’t do anyone favors. The opinions are definitely my own.