Dining in Dushanbe: Chinese Restaurant

Lunch at the Chinese restaurant was like a blur. Perhaps it is not even fair of me to provide a review considering all the factors: eight very jet lagged and hungry foreigners together for the first time with one very quaint young waitress. I would not wish that situation upon anyone, but allow me to talk only on the food.

My taste buds lead me to a spicy chicken dish and I sampled some of the fried rice off a companion’s plate. Now, I have had a large amount of Chinese food in my lifetime and in comparison to all the rest this little Chinese joint next door to the Indian spot off of Rudaki doesn’t get any medals. The food was okay, but I’ve had much better Chinese in parts of Alabama. On the up side it’s a great place to stop if you’re searching for fare less greasy/oily than some of the traditional Tajik finds around the town.

Affordable (low-mid range) and extremely accommodating staff.

Dining in Dushanbe: Sim Sim

I’m not entirely sure when Sim Sim came into existence or why it didn’t make guidebooks, but all that doesn’t really matter. If you’re searching for live over-the-top entertainment, decent dishes and a chance to hob-knob with some of Dushanbe’s upper-class you’ve found the right place.

Before entering listen closely for the warm welcome into Sim Sim. It’ll be hard to miss as the boisterous fellow dressed as a Mongol man from some fairy-tale time long ago will be sure to make his presence known there and throughout the evening. Walk up the steps and proceed to your table after passing through the guards staffed with spears and shields. Sim Sim is all show so it’s advised you have the time to make it a full night and the energy as well. As your make your order sway to the sounds of Celine Dion hits sung by Tajik karaoke singers in addition to traditional Tajik tunes as well. The singers come across pretty lifeless, but the real show begins after you’ve placed your order. Complete with belly dancers, traditional Tajik dancers and skits by our Mongol pals in the castle it gets pretty wild, a little tacky, but you’re sure to laugh and have a ball of a time. (If you’re geeked up about dining in a place like Sim Sim feel free to check out my very poorly produced video clip from my night out.)

In regards to the food, I believe I received the wrong dish or the remixed version of it that night. I had requested the Khasray Kastle, a beef roll with asparagus, but what showed up didn’t really taste like beef and had peas with no asparagus to be found. Disappointed? Yes and I was far too tired to send the dish back after waiting 30 plus minutes for it in the first place.

To wrap it up the food is so-so, but the good times non-stop. Sim Sim is not located on the main drag so you’ll just need to ask a taxi driver to take you there and you’ll be on your way.

Salamati!

Dining in Dushanbe: Merve

Dushanbe isn’t NYC, it isn’t Paris, and it most certainly isn’t Rome. In other words it may not be the most high-trafficked culinary city in terms of tourism, but having had the opportunity to dine out around town quite often I feel it my duty to dish the 411 on the good and bad plates in this big Central Asian city. To kick it off I’ll start with Merve.

Merve makes Lonely Planet’s Author’s Choice and for good reason. Affordable, tasty meals with friendly wait-staff make this one a real winner. For the first two weeks of my stay, Merve was the breakfast stop for me and my Habitat GV companions every morning. Start the day with a small yoghurt, sausage omelet, or Turkish pizza – three menu items that quickly became personal favorites. Initially the sausage has an awkward taste, but it grows on you. I’m told its chicken sausage since pork can’t really be found in Dushanbe. Mornings are pretty quiet at the Turkish cafe, but things start getting really busy around 11 AM and stay busy until closing time. If you check in for lunch, grab the donar kebab. It can be prepared on a sandwich, but go for the shredded meat over rice. Dishes range from 2TJS-7TJS.

There are two locations in Dushanbe, though the most popular appears to be that found at Rudaki 92.

Taste of the Ivory Coast in the NYC

Treichville may be a neighborhood in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, but it is also a restaurant in New York City, both of which I have never explored personally. However, for a sampling of the Ivory Coast and for less than half the cost one may consider swinging in for some fare. This Village Voice piece does a fine job taking us to the real Treichville by describing its bustling open-air markets, transportation terminals and nightclubs complete with French influence, yet the most African part of town. And just as quickly as the writer takes us across the Atlantic he ships us back across to the Treichville located at 339 East 118th Street, NYC where crab legs, mussels, clams, and shrimp can all be found on the menu.

From the sound of the piece it looks worth filling your tummy with a plate full. Again, I’ve never been, but if I were near by, without a question I’d be fueling up too.

Budget Travel Online on Istanbul

My flight departs from Istanbul into Dushanbe at 8:30 PM next Thursday so I doubt I’ll be able to experience the nighttime splendors discussed in this Budget Travel Online piece. Bummer. My travel agent tried his best to convince me to stay in Istanbul for a few days before going into Takjikistan, but I told him another time. Part of me is wishing I hadn’t. The article compares the Bosporus megaclubs to Beyoglu’s European charm on the opposite of the Bosporus.

The Beyoglu area was once a scary, filthy part of Turkey where the story states people often came in groups of four since traveling as a pair to the area wasn’t a sufficient safety measure. Today the Beyoglu is home to various art nouveau buildings, galleries, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Travelers looking for a new taste of Turkey may want to visit this piece and later stop in to places like Araf (pictured) where a Turkish clarinetist, Selim Sesler plays atop of the roof on Tuesday nights. Drinking, laughter and one jammed-packed dance floor make this spot sound like one of many happening nighttime Istanbul places and space.

Party for me!