GadlingTV’s Travel Talk – Thailand Part 7: Sangkhlaburi


Gadling TV’s Travel Talk, episode 37 – Click above to watch video after the jump

No matter what type of adventure you’re looking for, Thailand has it all.

In the first half of Travel Talk’s grand Thai expedition, we’ve tamed elephants, explored Bangkok’s temples, eaten scorpions, taken in a Muay Thai match, and witnessed a train running directly through a bustling market. Now, we’re taking you to explore a lesser known province of Thailand for a closer look at the culture and traditions of rural Thai life.

Situated near the border of Myanmar, Sangkhlaburi is a great destination for those looking for alternative to Chiang Mai or the beaches of Koh Samui. After embarking on an ox cart ride and being welcomed with a traditional ceremony in a Hmong village, we try stay upright on a canoe in Sangklahburi’s lake and discover that it’s not always easy to avoid the dreaded hoards of tour buses.

If you have any questions or comments about Travel Talk, you can email us at talk AT gadling DOT com.


Subscribe via iTunes:
[iTunes] Subscribe to the Show directly in iTunes (M4V).
[RSS M4V] Add the Travel Talk feed (M4V) to your RSS aggregator and have it delivered automatically.

Hosts: Stephen Greenwood & Aaron Murphy-Crews
Produced, Edited, and Directed by: Stephen Greenwood & Aaron Murphy-Crews
Special thanks: Tourism Authority of Thailand, Trikaya Tours

Travel Talk took Thailand by storm on invitation from the Tourism Authority of Thailand. No editorial content was guaranteed and Aaron & Stephen were free to openly share all adventures that they embarked upon.

Weekending: Veliko Tarnovo


The best part of expat life for me are the travel opportunities, especially when living in Turkey, conveniently located where Europe meets Asia. Expat travel takes on a new twist as you seek out the new and unfamiliar as in any new destination, the newly familiar of your adopted home city, and the old and familiar of your original home city. You luxuriate in the things your expat home lacks, compare versions of similar foods and drink, and wonder where you’d hang out, what you’d cook, and where you’d buy groceries in this foreign place. I recently took a week-long trip to Bulgaria (read about Sofia here, and I’ll finish up with the Black Sea town Varna) and fell in love with the country’s old architecture, young creativity, and most of all, the prices.

The place: Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Veliko Tarnovo (also called Veliko Turnovo, so I’ll simplify as VT) is smack dab in the middle of the country, dominated by a 12th-century fortress, hills aplenty, and the Yantra River (a Danube tributary). Once the Medieval capital of Bulgaria, VT boats a bevy of sights and lots of daytrip possibilities. After the country was liberated from the Ottoman Empire, Sofia became the capital, but VT remains a popular tourist destination and a point of pride for many Bulgarians. Other than the spectacularly Soviet Interhotel (don’t be fooled by glam interior photos, the exterior is an eyesore from another era – see above on right), VT escaped much of the communist architecture of Sofia and retains a historic small-town feel.

%Gallery-105673%Upgrades

  • While I found Sofia to have the best prices of any European capital thus far, VT is even more budget. I stayed in the boutique Studio Hotel for 45 Euros a night, and ordered local wine in restaurants for 2 leva a glass (and that’s for a 250 ml pour, a third of a bottle!). Two people can hit the town with 40 leva (under $30 USD) in their pockets and come home with change to spare. Real estate signs advertise houses in nearby towns for 10,000 Euros, making you contemplate a rural Bulgarian life.
  • Endless people-watching fun. For a hill town of 70,000 people, the ladies sure know how to dress. On any given weekday afternoon, you may see women in 5-inch stilettos, miniskirts, skin tight jeans, or revealing dresses. The girls may look like they are on their way to a Jersey Shore nightclub, but more likely destinations are a university class or their grandmother’s house. Additionally, ’80s fashion is alive and well in Bulgaria – I spotted mullets (for women), big hair (for men), neon colors, high-top sneakers, and vests everywhere. An entertaining afternoon can be spent at a sidewalk cafe marveling “Did you SEE what she was wearing?!” with your travel mates.

Downgrades

  • While VT is a charming place, it feels like a one-horse town after a few days of wandering the same streets up and down. The historical sights are lovely to see but small and a tad overpriced (6 leva for a quick tour of a church feels a bit extortionate when you realize it could buy you a meal or get you nice and tipsy). One upside to the tiny museums is few crowds, even in the height of the tourist season. Visiting the weirdly wonderful State Art Museum as the only patron while little old ladies followed me around, turning on and off lights, was a highlight of the trip. The (almost) nightly Tsarevets fortress sound and lights show is fun to see at least once, though I thought it could be improved with more lasers and the Beverly Hills Cop theme song; visiting the fortress by day is a little disappointing and best enjoyed as a scenic view.
  • Another downside to the small-town feel of VT is limited food options. More cosmopolitan Sofia offers sushi, Indian food, and modern Bulgarian; coastal Bulgaria boats seafood galore; VT has traditional and not-terribly-exciting Bulgarian food (which can be a good or bad thing) and pizza. This means a LOT of meat and after a few days, I was literally dreaming of salad. Also: be careful with drinking tap water. Although, opinions are divided on whether or not it is safe to drink, I was sick every day I drank tap water in VT until I discovered the CDC advises against it, and was much improved after switching to bottled water. One favorite place to eat and drink: the Malkiya Inter cafe is eclectically decorated with antiques and musical instruments, buzzing with locals celebrating birthdays or watching football, and serves tasty and cheap drinks and, of course, meat.

Getting there

Centrally located, travelers can fly into Sofia or Varna and bus or drive from there, about 3.5 to 4.5 hours. Bulgarian buses are cheap, comfortable, and clean, and have the added feature (not sure if its a good one) of playing raunchy Canadian comedies with Bulgarian subtitles; I saw the dreadful National Lampoon’s Going the Distance and the “Dan Ackroyd needs a paycheck” White Coats. Trains are available as well but slower and less reliable, though they can connect you to Istanbul and Bucharest.

Make it a week

After a few days in VT proper, rent a car and explore the central Balkans, stopping at Arbanassi for architecture (you can even hike from VT) and multiple monasteries. VT can easily be combined with trips to other major Bulgarian towns, small villages, or even neighboring countries like Romania. If the weather is good, head out to the beach for my next Bulgarian stop, Varna on the Black Sea.

Read my previous Weekending trips from Istanbul here.

Fall travel: Eat, drink, ride through Texas Hill Country

The calendar says summer is over, but the heat index tells another story. Either way, fall is fast approaching and your fall travel plans are the light at the end of the tunnel from the chaos that ensues during back-to-school season. Pack away your bathing suit and flip flops, break out your fleece and scarves and head to Texas, where the fall foliage is prime for leaf-peeping.

There’s no better time to escape into the Texas Hill Country than the autumn, when the green foliage that extends for miles begins to turn orange and red then slowly coat the ground with natural wonder. Consider the following:

Where to go: Fredericksburg already takes you to another time with its simple beauty and freedom from concrete and urban smog, but only when combined with historic cottages full of antiques and Western symbols does it reach its peak. This award-winning bed and breakfast sits on 35-acres of undisturbed rolling countryside. Rates range from $125 to $195 per cottage per night, but there are deals to be had during the week if you can escape for a couple weekdays. Most recently, it’s been declared one of the top 10 bed-and-breakfasts in the United States by Travel and Leisure Magazine, one of 10 great country escapes byFamily Fun and earned passing nods from Country Home, Country Inn and Country Living magazines

Where to stay: Settlers Crossing
104 Settlers Crossing
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
1-830-997-2722
www.settlerscrossing.com

Where to go: If you want to hole up away from civilization, including hospitality staff, these two newly renovated 1940-style guest cottages allow you to do just that. For just $95/night for a couple, you can enjoy the great outdoors near the river with kayaking, canoeing and wildlife watching all on the menu or you can enjoy the sweet simplicity of times gone by without giving up 21st century essentials such as WiFi, DVD and a satellite television.

Bird’s Nest on the Guadalupe
233 & 237 Guadalupe Street
Kerrville, TX 78028
830-792-4218
www.birdsnestguestcottages.com
Where to go: You really ought to do a dude ranch before you die, and Rancho Cortez offers the ultimate Western experience. Even over a weekend, owner Larry Cortez and resident cowboy, Rusty, will have you rounding up cattle, racing around rodeo barrels, driving wagons, roping calves, camping out under the stars and eating authentic yet reasonably healthy ranch cuisine. A room for two runs about $310/night but includes all three meals, two hours of horseback riding and all other ranch activities. When making your reservation, be sure to tell them it’s a romantic getaway– they’ll always throw in a little something extra to boost the mood.

Where to stay: Rancho Cortez
872 Hay Hollar Road
Bandera, TX 78003
830-796-9339
www.ranchocortez.com

Where to go: Where better than a town called comfort to kick back and relax with your honey? Off Interstate 10 and state highway 187 on the far outskirts of San Antonio, Comfort offers up that famous southern hospitality and many intimate time traveling experiences at its various Bed and Breakfasts, cottages and manors from the 19th century. The most unforgettable is Haven River Inn, which at rates of $75 to $125 is both affordable and exclusive. There’s much to do around the stunning grounds, but the pool and porch will bring you back toward the Main House in between adventures.

Where to stay: Haven River Inn
105 Highway 473
Comfort, TX 78013
830-995-3834
www.havenriverinn.com

Where to go: If you’re not impressed by down home tranquility and would rather hit the greens for a few rounds of golf or if you’d rather swim in a man-made lazy river than float the Frio, the Hyatt Hill Country is the place for you. The room service menu will please any palate at any hour of the day, and the hotel is able to offer amenities that the local joints cannot. The best time here is during the week, but an adults-only pool lets you isolate yourself from children all the time if you so desire. The price per night varies from $200 to $600 depending on what room style you select, but by the time you pay for food, this is not a trip for the light spender.

Where to stay: Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort

9800 Hyatt Resort Drive
San Antonio, TX 78251
210-647-1234
www.hillcountry.hyatt.com

Where to go: The Texas Hill Country Wine Trail now ranks second only to Napa Valley as an American wine destination, so you don’t need to stray far from home to have an extraordinary winery tour and experience. There’s usually at least a few tastings, festivals and tours going on any given weekend, but check the calendar before you go to hit an event that especially appeals to you. The 25 wineries are scattered all around the Hill Country, but they’re most dense around Fredericksburg, Dripping Springs and towns northwest of Austin.

Where to stay: Texas Hill Country Wine Trail

11003 Ranch Road 2222 C
Austin, TX 78730
866-621-9463
www.texaswinetrail.com

Where to go: If you’re not staying at Settlers’ Crossing for your tour de vino, consider Mt. Gainor Inn in Dripping Springs, which is centrally located between three of the rural wineries. Surrounded by wooded area, this bed-and-breakfast does not take the breakfast part lightly, serving gourmet home-cooked meals not just in the morning but at dinnertime also, often outside under a canopy in the crisp central Texas air. There’s even a flower garden in the courtyard, making for some romantic moments in passing and a serene, idyllic atmosphere all around. If that’s not enough to get your engine going, they also offer in-room massages, chocolate-dipped strawberries and custom getaway packages. The four unique rooms range in price from $130 to $170 a night.

Where to say: Mt Gainor Inn
2390 Prochnow Road
Dripping Springs, TX 78620
513-858-0982
www.mtgainorinn.com

Where to go: Perhaps my favorite aspect of this quaint rural retreat are the Market Days put on nearby on the first Saturday of the month, March through December, where you can find lovely antiques and all sorts of country crafts, but even you miss that, the little town of Wimberley has lots to offer. Hit the Cypress Falls Swimming Hole for a dip you thought you’d only seen in movies or cut your own lavender at Rough Creek Lavender Fields. Stay at the nearby Cypress Creek Cottages for reasonable rates with fun food package options and doggy day care for $20/dog.

Where to stay: Cypress Creek Cottages
104 Scudder Lane
Wimberley, TX 78676
512-847-5950
www.cypresscreekcottages.org

Melanie Kiser is a Seed.com contributor

Chicago City Provisions organic farm dinners

It’s Green Travel Month here at Gadling, so to get into the green spirit, I booked a special dinner with Chicago’s City Provisions Catering and Events, an eco-friendly catering company. City Provisions works with local farmers and suppliers, sends its organic waste back to farmers for composting, and sources all of its ingredients from organic and sustainable providers. The company offers catering services both off-site and at its city space, and is in the process of opening up a deli. It also hosts a monthly supperclub. In winter, dinners are held at the storefront location, but in the warmer months the meal is served out on a local farm, using fresh ingredients grown on-site. August’s dinner was held at Heritage Prairie Farm, about an hour north of Chicago. Heritage Prairie also does its owns farm dinners, but drinks and transportation are not included, as they are with City Provisions.

At 1 p.m., my husband and I arrived at the City Provisions location in Chicago. While we checked in, we were offered soft drinks – served in 100% compostable glasses – and light snacks. Then we, and the 38 other diners, boarded the biodiesel bus for the ride out to the farm. Along the way, we were introduced to Cleetus, the mastermind behind City Provisions. We enjoyed some BLT sandwiches, tomato gazpacho, and Great Lakes Brewing beers, and prepared ourselves for the upcoming feast.

Once at the farm, we met the owners and the farmers who work the land. They led us on a tour of the small property and explained the sustainable practices they employ to make the farm as efficient as possible. While Heritage Prairie is not a certified organic farm, the methods they use, such as allowing weeds to grow in certain areas rather than using pesticides, are green and eco-friendly. One of the most unique features of the farm is the three movable greenhouses, which allow the farmers to engaging in a practice known as “four-season farming”. The greenhouses are on tracks and can be moved up and down the length of the field, covering different sections as needed. This allows the farm to harvest some crops as late as January, long past the time when most other farms have halted their efforts for the year.

The tour took us through one of the smaller greenhouses, where we saw the wooden growing beds where seeds were left to germinate. Due to the farm’s small size, it’s very important that it be as efficient as possible. To ensure that every inch of the field is productive, the soil beds in the growing greenhouse are cut up into smaller squares, and only the successful ones are moved to the field. In this way, no field space is wasted. After exploring the grounds, we browsed through the farm’s market for honey made on-site and fresh produce and herbs grown at the farm.

By 5 p.m., we were sitting down to dinner at an elegantly-dressed table in the field. As we helped ourselves to baby eggplant baba ganouj with pita chips, servers began pouring the beer that would accompany each course. Provided by Great Lakes Brewing, one of the most environmentally-responsible brewers in the US, the beer was paired according to each course, and many of the dishes utilized the beer for their sauces.

Over the next three hours, we enjoyed five courses of delicious, fresh-from-the-farm food expertly prepared by the City Provisions chefs, who were all decked out in organic cotton chef’s jackets that had buttons made from nuts rather than plastic. Between each course, we had the chance to mingle with fellow diners and we learned about the process of brewing beer and about the sustainable practices at Great Lakes Brewing from owner Pat Conway.

Our first course, a delicate micro-green salad, was topped with sun gold tomatoes and a vinaigrette made with Grassroots beer from Great Lakes and honey produced on the farm. Next came a colorful mix of seared rainbow chard, baby leeks, currants and pine nuts, with crispy pancetta served over brown rice with a balsamic sauce made from the accompanying Edmund Fitzgerald Porter.

Course three – a zucchini cake topped with basil creme fraiche and served with baby carrots and more of the farm’s microgreens – was just as delightful. By the time course four rolled around, everyone at the table had become fast friends, and we traded stories while oohing and aahing over the grilled pork brat that was topped with grain mustard and served with potato salad and green beans in a browned-butter sauce.

Just when we thought our tummies had been filled to bursting, the final course was brought out. A light-as-air pavlova was topped with caramel-honey cream and fresh peaches and was served alongside a rich Glockenspiel beer. As we licked the last of the cream from our forks and tilted back our glasses to catch the last drops of beer, the chefs were busy setting up another surprise. While dinner had ended, the evening was far from over, and as we stood from the table, we saw that a bonfire had been started, more beer was ready to be consumed, and the ingredients for classic s’mores were laid out nearby. We drank, ate, and relaxed while enjoying the searing colors of the sun setting over the fields.

At 10 p.m., it was time to re-board the bus and return to our city lives. Our indulgent dinner may not have single-handedly saved the planet, but our support of farmers and producers who use sustainable methods may help encourage other restaurants and farmers to take a step in a greener direction too.

Can’t make it to Chicago to book a farm dinner with City Provisions? Here are some other green-focused farm dinners around the country.

Austin, Texas – Dai Due Supper Club
Portland, Oregon – Plate & Pitchfork Farm Dinners
Old Lyme, Connecticut – Dinners at the Farm
Ashville, North Carolina – Maverick Farms
Boulder, Colorado – Meadow Lark Farm Dinners
Point Arena, California – Oz Farm
Various locations – Outstanding in the Field

America travel inspiration: Blue Highways

For many Americans, dream trips involve far-flung international destinations. Traveling thousands of miles from home to a foreign land just seems more exciting. You get to experience a new culture, sample unfamiliar cuisine, and of course, get that all-important passport stamp to add to your collection.

A trip within your own country just can’t compete with that. The food is the same, the history is shared, the language is (usually) easily understood and you don’t even have to exchange money. There’s nothing exciting or exotic about that. Or so you may think.

But travel around your own country with open eyes and an open mind and you may realize that the good old US of A isn’t as homogeneous as you thought. Approach your homeland with the same anthropological curiosity and cultural hunger than you do to foreign lands and you’ll see that there may be as much to learn about different regions in your own country as there is places on the other side of the world.

One of my favorite sources for inspiration to explore more of the U.S. is William Least Heat-Moon’s Blue Highways: A Journey into America. Down on his luck Heat-Moon takes off on an epic journey around the country, sticking only to the two-lane country roads called blue highways. Along the way, he finds solace in the road and in the characters he meets on his journey. He explores the cultural differences that can exist between people of the same country and paints a captivating picture of life in rural and small town America. If you’ve never had much interest in traveling the lesser-known routes of the U.S., just wait until you see the country through Heat-Moon’s eyes. I know that I can’t read the book without feeling an urge to hit the open road and discover my own America.