Budget Edinburgh: Navigating Scotland’s capital on a shoestring

by Grant Martin on

Great Britain isn’t at the top of many budget travelers’ lists due to the sheer insanity of the exchange rate. Today’s dollar gets the American traveler only 0.62 pounds, and for those working on a ramen and couch-surfing budget, that unfavorable ratio can cause a great deal of hardship.

With that said, Scotland and Edinburgh are a world away from the star studded and action packed streets of London, and that inflated sex appeal down south only makes things cheaper in the sleepy north. Like one can take a dollar further in rural Arkansas against urban New York, there are plenty of ways to stretch a wayward pound sterling in Edinburgh, and here at Gadling Labs we’d like to show you just how. Let’s get started.

Getting Around
In general, downtown Edinburgh is a very walkable region. One can navigate from the high end shops on George street in New Town over the Queen’s Gardens and into Old Town in a healthy fifteen minutes, and there’s plenty to see between the two waypoints.

If need be, however, a comprehensive series of buses criss-cross the city, and it seems that there is always a stop within a stone’s throw of your downtown destination. A ride on the Lothian buses, which are the predominant carrier in the city, will cost £1.30 while a day pass with unlimited rides will only set you back £3.20. It’s also possible to get multi day passes (which include airport buses) for £25.Those same coaches reach the airport as well, though for that transit it’s best to take one of the express, blue buses right outside of the main terminal. Passage on these coaches only costs £3.50 and provides a quick, 30 minute journey from the airport into the central, Waverly Station.

Dining
There is no shortage of inexpensive eats in the city of Edinburgh, and a wide spectrum outside of simple pub fare should await any traveler keen to dine on a bit of spare pocket change.

As with the rest of the United Kingdom, fish and chip shops and shawarma stands are scattered throughout the city, many centered around late night haunts or adjacent to student areas. Here, four to six pounds can get you a healthy dose of battered cod and chips or several varieties of Middle Eastern fare, and though not an epicurean adventure you’ll get a full stomach for a reasonable price.

Earlier in the day, Hanover and Rose streets are also home to a deeper variety of inexpensive, delicious fare. One’s best bet is to plant oneself on Hanover between Queen and Thistle or on Rose between Hanover and Frederick and then spin in a circle – there’s enough selection here to cater to nearly any palette, and like the food court in any urban mall it may be useful to divide and conquer.

Particularly outstanding among the batch of Hanover restaurants are The Dogs (110 Hanover) and Amore Dogs (104 Hanover), two spots dedicated to sourcing local, organic ingredients, building classic, inexpensive dishes and positioning them in a modern, warm setting. Dishes range in price up to about £12 and the restaurants are almost always packed, so call ahead for a reservation. Seadogs (43 Rose), a sister restaurant with a seafood spin (Get it?) is also a great pick over on Rose.

Another option on Hanover street is the Urban Cafe (121 Hanover). Despite being on the lower floor of a three story building, the space is well-lit and cleanly appointed, serving a delicious array of tapas (none more than £3.50) and light fare for nothing more than £12.

In a worst case scenario, however, most pubs will be able to put together a decent meal of jacket potatoes or fish and chips. Like the Americans have perfected frozen yogurt and fast food burgers, Scots are excellent at delivering solid pub food, and short of chancing upon a high-market gastropub, one should be able to get in and out with a meal for under £10. Just stay away from the Royal Mile and Prince Street and you won’t pay too hefty of a price.

Make sure you also keep the cooking-at-home option in mind, especially if you’re staying at a vacation rental or on a couch. The farmer’s markets and local grocers provide the best venue for sourcing one’s own fare, with Edinburgh’s farmer’s market taking the award for the most picturesque market in the hemisphere.

Accommodation
The basic budget strategies key in any destination around the world hold well for Edinburgh. Like in Barcelona or in Los Angeles, renting an apartment can be an excellent way to conserve costs on both accommodation and dining, and both VRBO and airbnb have numerous properties available at very reasonable prices.
Beyond the obvious recommendations to rent an apartment or couchsurf your way to budget lodging, several specific facets of Edinburgh’s thrifty hotel scene are worth mention.

The city has plenty of hostel options, from Smart City Hostels (65 Cockburn) to Castle Rock (15 Johnston Terrace). Many of the hostels along the Grassmarket corridor are well-accessible to the city, and late in the evening the streets around the area liven up with backpacking folk spinning in circles and bouncing between bars. It’s not rowdy in the Khosan Road sense of things, but if you’re looking for a quiet, introspective journey, then you may want to book a single room or find another area.

In the midrange, hundreds of hotels are scattered around central Edinburgh, so there should be no shortage of options in the sub $200 range. Among Tripadvisor’s top 30 hotels in the region, 17 have rates that dip into the high $100s, while 9 can dip lower than $150.

On the “affordable luxury” end of the spectrum, make sure to check out the Hotel du Vin and Bistro (11 Bristo Place) on the edge of the old city, where luxury intersects with good design and palatable prices. At publication, rates were as low as $400, but during shoulder and low season those prices should drop.

Another great resource for budget Edinburgh lodging is through Eurocheapo’s portal. The New York-based team has an excellent cross section of inexpensive properties on their site with reviews and pictures to boot.

Summary
Finally, make sure to set up your money conversions strategy properly before heading into the United Kingdom. Money changers and local conversions are going to take a huge percentage of your transaction, so get an international fee-free card and withdraw money from the ATM to get the best rate — with the conversion so low, you need to save every penny that you can.

New discoveries reveal life and times of the Roman Emperor Hadrian

by Sean McLachlan on

The Emperor Hadrian is one of Rome’s most famous emperors, ruling at the height of the Empire from 117-138 AD. His villa just north of Rome is a popular tourist attraction, yet some Italian researchers have discovered what countless visitors never noticed: the buildings are aligned with astronomical events.

On the summer solstice (June 21 this year) light passes through an opening above a doorway and shines on a niche in the opposite wall. The niche probably contained the statue of some deity. This sort of light effect has been found in other ancient sites. Another building is aligned both to the summer and winter (December 21 this year) solstices, during which the light shines through a row of doors.

The effects may have been part of the worship of Isis. Originally an Egyptian goddess, a popular mystery religion grew up around her in the Roman Empire.

Hadrian’s other famous monument, Hadrian’s Wall, is also the site of a recent discovery. At the fort of Vindolanda, dozens of circular huts have been discovered that don’t look like anything the Romans built. In fact, they look like the huts of the tribes living north of the wall in Scotland, outside the direct influence of the Roman Empire. These may have been homes for refugees from friendly tribes fleeing common enemies, perhaps during the invasion of Scotland by Emperor Septimius Severus (ruled 193-211 AD) or the homes of temporary workers who lived along the wall and served the Romans.

For more on Hadrian’s Wall and a hike you can take along the entire length, check out my series on hiking Hadrian’s Wall.

[Photo courtesy Jastrow]

Edinburgh through the wide angle lens

by Grant Martin on

Spring is ebbing in the Scottish capital of Edinburgh, the best time of the year in northern Great Britain. This historical city blossoms with opportunity as the season changes; green spaces tumble through the city like unrolling bolts of cloth, the castle and the Holyrood Palace glisten with visitors and sleepy residents begin to emerge from the shadows of winter to bustle about the public squares and cafés. Around the this time of the year, Princes Street hums with activity, visitors darting in and out of the TopShop and Jenners while the restaurants on Rose open their front facades to let smells of haggis and fried cod drift out into the street.

Edinburgh is city for walkers and photographers. Two to three steps in any direction and there’s another great view of the castle with a cherry tree or a statue to fold into the shot. Switch to the prime lens and there’s depth in the architectural features of an ancient building or in the lines of a passing tourist. There are generations of history in every fissure of each building, with ancient, stone walls reaching out to you in every direction while nature lovers can drink in the amazing views around Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park.

The photo opportunities alone are reason enough to visit Scotland, without a meal consumed, friendship made, or hotel bed rustled. Luckily, there’s plenty of that to experience in this country as well.

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Skeletons at royal castle in Scotland killed in battle, experts say

by Sean McLachlan on


Stirling Castle in Scotland was the scene of several brutal sieges and battles in its violent history. Now a new exhibition looks at the castle’s past and the grim discovery of several skeletons in the Royal Chapel showing signs of violent death.

One man had 44 skull fractures from repeated blows with a blunt object, and up to 60 more over the rest of his body. The Middle Ages were a pitiless time, and despite what modern romance novels say there wasn’t much chivalry. The skeleton of a woman had 10 fractures to her skull, resulting from two heavy blows. Neat, square holes through the top of her skull suggest she may then have fallen and been killed with a weapon such as a war hammer. At least five skeletons in the chapel showed signs of violent death. Carbon dating shows they died in several incidents between the 13th century and c.1450.

One of the skulls can be seen in this photo courtesy of Historic Scotland. Holding it is Dr. Jo Buckberry of Bradford University, who carried out the research on the skeletons.

The chapel was excavated as part of Historic Scotland’s restoration of the castle’s 16th century palace. The fact that the people were buried here indicates they were important.

One has been tentatively identified as Sir John de Stricheley, who died in 1341. Sir De Stricheley and the lady’s skeleton were featured last year on BBC2’s History Cold Case series.

Stirling Castle was an important castle on the boundary between Scotland and England and was besieged numerous times during the Wars of Scottish Independence (1296-1328 and 1332-1357). Several battles occurred nearby.

The exhibition, including facial reconstructions of Sir De Stricheley and the lady, will open June 4.

[Castle photo courtesy Finlay McWalter]

Some German airports shut because of Iceland volcano

by Sean McLachlan on

Ash from the Icelandic volcano Grimsvötn that caused hundreds of flight cancellations in the UK, Denmark, and Norway yesterday has now moved over Germany, shutting down airports in the north of the country.

Hamburg and Bremen airports are closed. Berlin airport will probably close this morning as well. At least 600 flights are expected to be affected.

Poland may also be affected today but otherwise flights in, out, and around Europe should be operating. There may be knock-on delays because of the disruption in Germany so check ahead before going to the airport.

In better news, Grimsvötn has stopped erupting. Let’s hope it keeps behaving.

Have you been affected by the volcanic ash? Feel free to vent in the comments section!

[Micrograph of volcanic ash courtesy US Geological Survey]

UPDATE: (9:23 EDT) The BBC is reporting that Hamburg, Bremen, and Berlin airports have reopened. About 700 flights were cancelled.