After the Snow, “Recovery” Shoes

It used to be that you’d stomp off the slopes, shed your heavy boots, and get into a pair of apres-ski boots. I kind of loved these things, moon boots, big hairy lace up mukluks, more recently, Uggs (which I can not get behind, I’m sorry). Now there’s something called a “recovery” shoe that fits the same bill.

I’m not big on jargon and I’ll leave the sports theory to the physical therapists and sports “experts.” What I do like is warm feet. I pack slippers when I’m going on a road trip — there’s always room in the car for more shoes, am I right? And if I’m going to a cold weather destination, I make sure I’ve got something nice for my feet for indoors, not just for stomping around in the snow.

Sole makes these funny looking shoes, the Exhale, that they market as a “recovery” shoe. I got a pair a while back, and I’ll be honest, I did not like them. They weren’t super comfortable and come on, they’re funny looking, right?

Thing is, it was summer. I was wearing them around the house a little, and they were hard, and too much shoe for August. But when the temperatures started to drop, I dragged them out from under the bed and now I wear them All The Time.

Because they have a full hard sole, they’re fine for wearing outdoors — they’re great for running errands and stomping around while you load your gear into the car for that snowshoeing outing. They’re fine for the long walk to the hotel lobby to get coffee or to perch on the wifi near the fireplace, and they’re totally suitable for winter flights. Even with a wardrobe as questionable as mine, they don’t make a great substitute for winter footwear, but for those transit times, for hanging around the condo you’ve rented at the beach during the off season, they’re great.
Keen makes a similarly styled shoe/slipper/recovery model, the Howser (Wool). There’s a nylon one too, that has the more water resistant fabric. Either one fits the bill of a hybrid slipper/shoe that you can wear while scampering about the chalet in your post slopes lounge wear.

I got a pair of the Howser (Wool) for the husband and he loves them. They’re super toasty (I tried them) and they also have the hard sole that makes them suitable for wearing while you’re putting the skis on the roof of the car. (Note the fantasy winter life I am making up for us!) The wool version doesn’t have the collapsible heel cup the the nylon version (and the Sole Exhale) has, but they’re still plenty easy to get in and out of and they’re a nice to have extra for your winter wardrobe.

The Howser (Wool) goes for $65.00, the Exhale for $75.00. I didn’t want to like them and yet, I’m wearing mine right now.

A brief history of Telluride and its surrounding ghost towns

Telluride. The name alone conjures a variety of associations, from the debaucherous (Glenn Frey’s “Smuggler’s Blues”) to the elite (Tom Cruise is the other inevitable mention). But this isolated little town in Southwestern Colorado’s craggy San Juan range has a truly wild past and a lot to offer. It’s not the only mining-town-turned-ski-resort in the Rockies, but I think it’s the most well-preserved, photogenic, and in touch with its history. Apparently I’m not alone, because the town core (all three blocks of it) was designated a National Historic Landmark District in 1964.

Located in a remote box canyon (waterfall included) at 8,750 feet, Telluride and its “down valley” population totals just over 2,000 people. I’ve lived in Telluride off-and-on since 2005, and there’s something to be said about a place where dogs outnumber residents, and you can’t leave home without running into people you know. Longtime residents burn out on the small town thing, but I still get a kick out of it after years of city living.

Today the former brothels of “Popcorn Alley” are ski shanties, but they’re still painted eye-catching, Crayola-bright colors, and the old ice house is a much-loved French country restaurant. Early fall is a great time to visit because the weather is usually mild, the aspens are turning, and there’s the acclaimed Telluride Film Fest, brutal Imogene Pass Run (Sept. 10) and Blues & Brews Festival (Sept. 16-18) to look forward to. The summer hordes are gone, but the deathly quiet of the October/early-November off-season hasn’t begun.

According to the Telluride Historical Museum, the town was established in 1878. It was originally called Columbia, and had a reputation as a rough-and-tumble mining town following the opening of the Sheridan Mine in the mid-1870’s. The mine proved to be rich in gold, silver, zinc, lead, copper, and iron, and with the 1890 arrival of the Rio Grande Southern railroad, Telluride grew into a full-fledged boomtown of 5,000. Immigrants–primarily from Scandinavia, Italy, France, Germany, Cornwall, and China–arrived in droves to seek their fortunes. Many succumbed to disease or occupational mishaps; the tombstones in the beautiful Lone Tree Cemetery on the east end of town bear homage to lots of Svens, Lars’, and Giovannis.

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[Photo credit: Flickr user hubs]

The mining resulted in 350 miles of tunnels that run beneath the mountains at the east end of the valley; you can see remnants of mine shafts and flumes throughout the region. If paddling is your thing, you’ll see gold dredges runnning on the San Miguel, San Juan, and Dolores Rivers.

Telluride’s wealth attracted the attention of Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch, who famously robbed the town’s San Miguel National Bank in 1889 (trivia: I used to live in an upstairs apartment in that very building). But in 1893, the silver crash burst the money bubble, and almost overnight Telluride’s population plummeted. By the end of World War II, only 600 people remained.

Telluride is a part of the 223-mile San Juan Scenic Highway, which connects to the historic towns of Durango, Ouray, and Silverton. There’s only one paved road in and out of Telluride, and that’s Hwy. 145. The only other options are two high, extremely rugged mountain passes (which require 4WD and experienced drivers). There are also a handful of ghost towns in the area. Some, like Alta (11,800 feet) make for a great, not too-strenuous hike; you’ll see the trailhead four miles south on Hwy 145. There are a number of buildings still standing, and two miles up the road lie the turquoise Alta Lakes.

If you want to check out the ghost town of Tomboy, it’s five miles up Imogene Pass (13,114 feet). Don’t underestimate just how tough it is if you’re hiking; you’ll gain 2,650 feet in altitude; otherwise it’s an hour’s drive. The trail begins on the north end of Oak Street; hang a right onto Tomboy Road. Unless you’re physically fit and acclimated to the altitude, the best way to see these ghost towns is by 4WD tour with an outfitter like Telluride Outside. Another bit of trivia: every July, the “Lunar Cup” ski race is held on a slope up on Imogene Pass, clothing optional.

How to get there
Telluride is a six-and-a-half-hour drive from Denver, but it also boasts the world’s second highest commercial airport (9,078 feet) with daily non-stop connections from Denver and Phoenix. It’s closed in sketchy weather (if you’re flight phobic, just say “hell, no”), and it’s often easier and usually cheaper to fly into Montrose Regional Airport, 70 miles away. From there, take Telluride Express airport shuttle; you don’t need a car in town. Go to VisitTelluride.com for all trip-planning details. For more information on the region’s numerous ghost towns, click here.

When to go
Telluride is beautiful any time of year, but avoid mid-April through mid-May and October through before Thanksgiving, as those are off-season and most businesses are closed. Spring is also mud season, and that’s no fun. Late spring, summer, and early fall mean gorgeous foliage, and more temperate weather, but be aware it can snow as late as early July. August is monsoon season, so expect brief, daily thunderstorms. July and winter are the most reliably sunny times; that said, Telluride averages 300 days of sunshine a year. If you want to explore either pass, you’ll need to visit in summer.

Telluride tips
The air is thin up there. Drink lots of water, and then drink some more. Go easy on the alcohol, too. Take aspirin if you’re suffering altitude-related symptoms like headache or insomnia, and go easy for a couple of days until you acclimate. Wear broad-spectrum, high SPF sunblock, and reapply often on any exposed skin or under t-shirts. Wear a hat and sunglasses, as well.

[Photo credits: Tomboy, Flickr user Rob Lee; Mahr building, Laurel Miller; winter, Flickr user rtadlock]

Photo of the Day – Antarctica ice arch

The frozen climes of Antarctica are considered by many to be one of the last relatively untouched natural environments on Earth. In addition to flocks of penguins that number in the millions and pods of whales, you’re likely to encounter massive icebergs that easily dwarf any manmade object. Take the photo above by Flickr user SummitVoice1 as an example. Captured in Antarctica’s Brown Bluff area, the shot positions a tiny zodiac craft packed with visitors as it hovers precariously beneath a massive ice arch. You can almost picture the expressions of the tiny passengers aboard as they gaze up in wonder at structure above.

Taken any great travel photos of your own? Why not add them to our Gadling group on Flickr? We might just pick one of yours as our Photo of the Day.

Heavy snow strands 250 skiers in New Zealand lodge

Heavy snow, and the threat of avalanches, left more than 250 skiers and snowboarders stranded in a ski lodge in New Zealand earlier this week, as that country struggles with one of the harshest winters in recent memory.

Nearly 16 inches of snow fell on the Mt Lyford ski resort last Monday, making travel extremely dangerous. As the fear of avalanches grew, authorities were forced to close access roads, which left many of the resort’s guests to spend the night in the lodge.

It turned out to be an extremely long night for those stranded at the resort, as the lodge is not equipped for overnight guests and there was little food for them to share. Worse yet, high winds and blowing snow caused power outages, which meant there was no heat inside the building either. The stranded skiers made the best of the situation however, getting comfortable for the night in any way they could.

The next morning, a specially equipped snow vehicle delivered extra food, and emergency crews used controlled explosions to clear the road. Eventually the stranded travelers were cleared to leave the resort, although only ten cars were allowed to drive down the mountain at a time.

Late in the week, the resort was still closed and access remained limited.

Early in the Austral winter it looked like it was going to be a poor ski season for the New Zealand resorts, as the only snow on the slopes was the man made variety. That has all changed now however, as a cold front out of Antarctica has reduced temperatures dramatically and brought plenty of snow along with it. There are even reports of snow at sea level, with some Kiwi beaches even getting a dusting of the white stuff. Now, it appears the resorts could be in for a banner year, and skiers are flocking to the mountains.

[Photo courtesy Mt. Lyford]

NYC snow might not stop until mid-May, according to meteorologist

Despite the recent spring snow in NYC, New Yorkers are keeping their heads up, looking forward to warm weather. But one meteorologist is advising New Yorkers not to get their hopes up too soon.

“This recent snowfall may not be the last spring snow shower we see in New York”, says meteorologist, Harvey Cline. Cline has spent nearly the last decade studying the notorious nor’easters. As a lifelong resident of New York City, Cline has devoted his recent years to understanding patterns related to these unique storms so that he, and other meteorologists, can better predict when the storms will hit.

“I have suspicions, which colleagues of mine have supported, that we may see two or possibly three more snow storms in New York before the snow lets up for this season”, says Cline. “I’m not predicting any North American Blizzard of 2006”, assured Cline, “but I think we might see snow within New York City limits as late as mid-May”. I had a chance to discuss the disappointing prediction with some New York residents. The responses I received were varied.

“This is awful, just dreadfully awful”, commented Regina Landers, a 35 year old ice cream shop owner in Park Slope, Brooklyn. “My business depends on warm weather. Nobody wants to come out to my ice cream shop, or any ice cream shop at that, when it’s snowing. I mean, it’s really not funny. My livelihood depends on this, it really does”.

Landers isn’t the only one in this position. In fact, most people in the city seem to be squirming under the pressure of this news. Beer garden bartenders, Botanic Garden landscape artists, Coney Island lifeguards, Fire Island fire dancers, and even regular people living in New York suffer when winter overstays its welcome.

“My family has suffered enough”, said Michael Zito, a 48 year old father of three. Zito recently purchased a home in Jamaica, Queens and he’s unhappy with Bloomberg’s inability to control these spring snow storms. “This is taxing on my home”, said an angered Zito. “It’s hard on my pipes, my roof, on everything. But does the city care? No, ma’am. They don’t care about little ol’ me”.

In contrast to Landers and Zito, some New Yorkers don’t like it hot. Mira Petrov, 19, came to the States from Moscow with her family 5 years ago so that she could pursue her modeling career. Petrov says the warm weather doesn’t “help” her ambitions and that’s she’s happy to have more cold weather than usual this year.

“My love for fashion revolves around clothing. If the sun is always out, why wear clothing? There’s no need for it”, says Petrov, clearly annoyed by those who are annoyed with the spring snow news. “Summer apparel is much more revealing than winter and spring apparel. Think about it. What does a lady wear? A lady wears gorgeous furs and complex layers”, remarked the girl.

I must have seemed dubious because she quickly neutralized her stance in saying, “Now I don’t want it to snow all summer. It would be nice if we have a few months of weather in the 50’s and 60’s, but anything hotter than that is just unnecessary”.

Meanwhile, NYC’s hip are considering other cities.

“It’s not that I don’t love New York”, said Megan Price of Williamsburg, but originally of Akron, Ohio. “But I’m pretty sure I could wait tables at a cool raw food joint in Austin and not be so miserable half of the year”.

John Mark is a painter based out of Long Island City. He’s been in New York for over a decade now and this spring snow prediction seems to be convincing him to “finally” leave.

“Living in NYC seemed so essential 11 years ago”, he explains. “Before Etsy, I mean. But now I have an Etsy and I sell my art on there and quite honestly, I sell much more on Etsy than I ever did in Union Square. And I mean, I could sell to these customers from everywhere. I’m actually really confused about why I’m paying New York rent…”, he trailed off.

“I guess I’ll just stock up on groceries and hole up in my studio”, Mark continued. “And I’ll try to stay positive. The snowflakes here are really gorgeous when they’re falling. Snow in New York is beautiful. Until it hits the ground”.

So brace yourselves, New Yorkers. If there’s any such thing as karma in any form whatsoever at all, you will probably be rewarded for your ongoing hard work despite the dismal weather with a few decent months this summer.