The best of the best in Mammoth, CA

by Stephen Greenwood on

Hours in between Yosemite National Park and the highest mountain in the 48 contiguous states lies an action-packed town called Mammoth Lakes.

Don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard of it; Mammoth Mountain has remained a secret for many on the West Coast due to its remote location in the Eastern Sierras. Though it has always been popular for skiers and boarders from Los Angeles and SoCal, seasonal flights have started to trickle into Mammoth in recent years, quickly making it California’s next premier destination for winter sports. I went out to Mammoth to experience everything that the mountain has to offer and brought back the best of the best for you right here.


Best time to go. If your schedule permits, the best time to plan a trip to Mammoth is during a full moon. Aside from the obvious romance of snowcapped Sierras lit up by the moonlight, the Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center offers seasonal full moon snowshoe tours guided by a bona fide Swiss Alpinist. The tour will take you through the woods to a seldom visited ridge where you can take in views of the entire Mammoth Lakes area; a genuinely memorable experience. The only thing that tops it is the cozy finish of a hot cup of cider by the fire in the Tamarack lodge.

Biggest non-boarding thrill. Sign up for a snowmobile tour from Mammoth Snowmobile Adventures and take a guided thrill-ride through Mammoth’s 300 miles of snowmobile trails. The highlight is an unbounded excursion through powdery snow fields and an oval snowmobile track. The guided tours last 90 minutes, which is just about as much time as you’ll want to spend on the machines before returning to the Yodler for the end of the day activities.

Best way to get there. Without a doubt, Horizon Air’s seasonal services from Los Angeles and Seattle / San Jose are the best ways to get to Mammoth. With one-way fares as low as $39 on slow days, there’s nothing that beats a 55-minute flight over the snowcapped Sierras. The best and most under-promoted feature of the service is the fact that Mammoth Mountain will give you a free lift ticket on the same day as your flight from San Jose or Portland if you present your boarding pass at the lift ticket window. You can be trapped in Southern California smog in the morning and on top of California’s tallest ski resort in the afternoon; need I say more?

Best off-mountain adventure. Since Mammoth Lakes is a geologically active region on the edge of the Long Valley Caldera, there are dozens of natural hot springs to discover and take a wintertime dip in. The best advice? Ask a local where to go and you’ll get pointed in the right direction for hot springs that are near (and safe) for taking a dip.

Best chair on the mountain. Want the best untracked powder and tree runs while staying away from the busy weekend lift lines? Cut to the south side of the mountain for the Cloud Nine Express. For years, this corner of the mountain was serviced by a painfully slow double-chair lift that was replaced in 2007 with a high-speed six-person chair. Because of its location on the mountain, the chair rarely accumulates large lift lines despite its choice terrain and remains one of Mammoth’s best kept secrets.

Best Aprés Ski. One of the great aspects of Mammoth is that there are plenty of options in close proximity for skiers to unwind and cozy up after a long day on the mountain. The best seat in the house? The Yodler Bar & Pub’s fireside lounge. This historic building across from the Main Lodge has tasty aprés ski beverages and snacks, a lively crowd, and a cozy atmosphere. Catch a 6pm shuttle outside the Yodler for an easy ride back to the village before the nightlife gets started.

Best dinner table. There are plenty of diverse spots in and around Mammoth to grab a solid meal, but if you’re looking for something above and beyond, the table to have is a cozy spot next to the fireplace at Petra’s, just across from Mammoth’s village complex. The wine bar is highly recommended, the service is great, and the food is enough to impress the packs of highly discerning LA socialites that frequent Mammoth’s slopes.

If Petra’s is full, or you’re looking to commemorate a special occasion, then consider making the journey out to the Lakefront Restaurant at the Tamarack Lodge. The dining room is delightfully tiny and the food is meticulously prepared by Chef de Cuisine Frederic Pierrel. The atmosphere alone is definitely worth the 10 minute drive from the center of town; even if it’s only to have a warm drink in the lounge with some tasteful jazz buzzing in the background.

Best nightlife. Perhaps it’s the LA blood that trickles through the mountain, but Mammoth loves to party. If you still have enough energy to venture out after dark, there are a few fun options for socializing and finding a new ski partner to pair up with – and the best news is that they’re all in walking distance to the Village. The brand-new Hyde Restaurant & Bar has a great-looking crowd and LA-priced (read: expensive) bottle service to match. It seems a little out of place in a mountain town like Mammoth, but naturally attracts a very specific clientele.

If you prefer a more local & low-key vibe, then head down to the Clocktower Cellar Pub where pool tables, jukeboxes and cheap draft beer will help loosen your sore hamstring muscles. There’s plenty of dancing to be had at Lakanuki, but if you’re over 30 it’s likely that you’ll be feeling out of place among the throngs of college kids and Hawaiian decor.

Best way to stay connected. Anything but AT&T. Everything from 3G to basic cell reception with AT&T is appalling in and around most places in Mammoth – except on the actual slopes. Verizon and T-Mobile seem fine, but iPhone customers should be running to download the “Mark the Spot” application to file complaints with the provider. While this is solely AT&T’s problem, it’s a sign that Mammoth is still transitioning into being a major resort/destination. But it’s also a convenient excuse for why you “couldn’t be reached” all weekend.


Stephen Greenwood ventured out to Mammoth Lakes on a trip sponsored by the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area. No editorial content was guaranteed and Stephen was free to openly report on his experiences (pending his survival of the outdoor winter activities that demand motor skills he generally lacks).

Olympics resorting to using dry ice on Cypress Mountain

by Kraig Becker on

Last week we told you about Cypress Mountain, one of the venues for the Vancouver Winter Olympics which at the time was actually having snow delivered to the mountain. Unseasonably warm weather, and an uncharacteristic lack of of snowfall, had caused Olympic organizers to scramble to prepare the slopes for the snowboarding halfpipe competition, as well as several downhill ski events. But conditions haven’t improved much, and now they’re having to come up with more creative ways for keeping the snow that they trucked in from melting away as well.

Earlier in the week it was reported that dry ice would now be used to artificially cool the snow, particularly on the moguls and aeriels courses. Apparently, black tubes resembling flexible plastic drainage pipes, have been buried under the powder, and the dry ice is being pumped into those tubes. It is then frozen for 12 hours, and later used to help maintain the quality of the snow throughout the day. Officials hope that these efforts will allow them to maintain a steady base of snow throughout the two weeks of competition.

Meanwhile, weather forecasts continue to predict warmer than usual temperatures. For the week ahead, highs are expected to be around 38ºF, with little snow predicted. Workers are also expected to be busy around the clock continuing to deliver snow to the mountain, with helicopters being used to dump it on the slopes themselves. It seems they have an Olympic sized challenge ahead of them as well.

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Cypress Mountain has snow delivered in time for Olympic Games

by Kraig Becker on

With just one week to go until the opening ceremonies, the Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver are struggling to find enough snow for some of the planned events. In particular, Cypress Mountain, which will host snowboarding and freestyle competitions beginning February 13, has been scrambling to complete their halfpipe, as well as the ski and snowboard cross courses. The resort has so little snow in fact, that they’ve resorted to using over 1000 bales of straw to construct the needed infrastructure, and have had more than 300 truckloads of snow delivered from elsewhere around the area.

It has been an unusual winter so far in Vancouver, with average temperatures at their highest point in more than 70 years. Experts are placing the blame squarely on the shoulders of the El Niño weather pattern, which has been warming the Pacific Ocean for several months. The result has been little to no snowfall across the region in January, which means no new, fresh powder for the athletes, who began arriving yesterday in preparation for the games. The forecast for February doesn’t look much better, as more unseasonably high temperatures, and rain, not snow, are expected in the days ahead.

International Ski Federation president Gian-Franco Kasper told the Canadian press that he isn’t worried, as just 10 cm of snow is needed to cover the straw and make it ready for the athletes. Other event organizers say that while the lack of snow has been an issue across all the venues, Cypress Mountain is the only one that has caused significant concerns. They also promise that everything will be ready when the games officially open next Friday.

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Have a winter adventure of your own in Vancouver

by Kraig Becker on

Planning on heading to the Winter Olympics in a few weeks? Looking for something to do while you’re not busy with the curling match between Switzerland and Denmark? Perhaps you’d enjoy a little outdoor activity of your own while visiting beautiful British Columbia? Then you’re definitely headed to the right place, as Vancouver Island is one of the best adventure travel destinations in the world, no matter what season you go.

For winter adventures, the options are nearly endless. The snow begins falling on Vancouver Island in November and tends to stick around until late March, with the surrounding mountains remaining covered in the white stuff until well into the spring. Once the snow does start flying however, the local ski resorts, Mount Washington and Mount Cain, open for business offering great skiing and snowboarding for the beginner and the experienced snow bum alike. Mount Washington is the larger of the two, and more centrally located, and although Mount Cain is smaller, it is also a bit more remote and often less crowded. Both offer plenty of great runs, but if you’re more in the mood for cross country skiing, then go with Mount Washington, which has more than 34 miles of groomed trails and gets as much as 30 feet of snow annually.

If sliding down (or around) a mountain with skis strapped to your feet isn’t your cup of tea, then head to Vancouver’s West Coast to take in one of the other popular winter activities – storm watching. The raw power of the Pacific Ocean is regularly unleashed on the shoreline, with eight to ten foot waves smashing against the rocks, high winds pounding the cliffs, and copious amounts of snow and and rain blowing in off the water. Fortunately, there are a number of great viewing spots out of the gale force winds. Check out the Snug Harbour Inn or the Pacific Sands Resort for great views of nature’s raw power on full display.Vancouver Island is an incredibly beautiful place with mountain vistas and thick forests that are fun to explore year round. But the best way to visit the backcountry in the winter is on snowshoes, which are not only incredibly fun, but a great workout too. It’s the perfect way to spend the day away from the crowds and noise of the Olympic Village. But for a really amazing snowshoeing adventure, check out the Lantern Light Cross-Country and Snowshoeing tour around Mount Washington. This excursion hits the trail after dark, with a blanket of twinkling stars overhead and nothing but lanterns to light the trail ahead. It’s an experience you won’t soon forget.

There are plenty of other options for outdoor winter adventures on the island as well. For instance, snowmobiling is a popular pass time, with hundreds of miles of logging roads and backcountry trails open for exploration. Alternatively, consider packing a four-season tent and warm sleeping bag to go camping while you’re there, as there are camp sites open even in the winter months.

These activities are just a taste of what Vancouver Island has to offer, and once you get a chance to experience it all for yourself, you’ll want to book a return trip in the summer. When the snow melts, there is an entirely new set of outdoor activities to entice you to come back. From hiking to sea kayaking to mountain biking, Vancouver is equally intriguing in the summer as it is in the winter.

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Film illustrates how climate change affects ski resorts

by Mike Barish on

We all hear plenty of talk about climate change on a daily basis. But we often don’t see it in terms that relate to us. Teton Gravity Research sought to remedy that by producing the short film Generations. The film focuses on how climate change has affected the ski industry. Rather than discussing the topic in overly generalized terms, it looks at the issue from a perspective that anyone who has ever thrown a snowball can understand.

In the Northeast, shortened ski seasons have devastated ski resorts. Many have shut down or are clinging to life. Glaciers throughout the world are receding at alarming rates. The beautiful landscapes and breathtaking vistas that are enjoyed by winter sports enthusiasts every year are rapidly changing and disappearing. Generations tells the story of climate change through the eyes of skiers, action sports athletes and lovers of winter.

Do yourself a favor and set aside 15 minutes to watch Generations. Hell, watch it now. If you’re reading this, you’re obviously not doing any work. It’s well done and will really help you understand how climate change is affecting the way we enjoy our surroundings.